Go Bottomplowing snow with rear blade
 | scotty
Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 22 Cheswick PA 
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2007-10-13 146898
There's been a lot of discussion regarding this topic. One question I have is how do you determine the best angle to run the rear blade at to minimize moving material other than snow (gravel driveway). On my BX2350 with the top link at the tightest position, the angle still seems a bit too aggressive. I read an interesting post about putting a half pipe of sort along the blade to remove the cutting action. Short of that, is there a better way?
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 | DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada 
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2007-10-13 146901
The BX series has a top link that is too long in proportion to its lower links and the top cannot be easily replaced because of its unusual dimensions.
I went to the expense and time to shorten the top link on my BX. But these days it might be easier to buy a set of Pats Easy Change lower link extenders. ....
Link: Easy Change
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 | candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 1932 North Dakota 
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2007-10-13 146905
Scotty,
I've seen some serious damage done to rear mounted, 3-point blades. The problem comes when attempting to pile snow, by ramming into a previous pile. The problem is made worse when extending the lower arms.
Should you decide to extend your lower arms, be careful not to hit any solid objects, or to attempt to ram your tractor into previously piled snow.
The three-point hitch is extremely strong when pulling an implement. It is extremely weak when pushing......as the lower arms can easily be bent under stress, and the problem gets worse the longer the lower arms become.
Extending the lower arms is a solution to the attack angle problem, but it makes the 3-point hitch very vulnerable to damage. Treat it with care.
If you ever hit a curb, you'll spend the better part of the day in the shop. And once those arms get bent, you can count on the fact that they'll bend even easier the second time around.
It's not a very strong arrangement, even without the extensions.
Joel ....
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| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2007-10-13 146907
Ditto to the above good advice.
I guess I should add that I can give you some guidance if you want to shorten the top link.
I figured out a way to take the crimp out of the internal threads so that it can be disassembled. ....
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 | earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2007-10-13 146909
There's nothing slicker than a hydraulic top link. You can make (or buy) one non-powered if you don't have a rear remote. That's what I did before I installed a rear remotes. All you do is get the right length hydraulic cylinder (fork lift repair shops sometimes have them for $20), weld on the right ends (from TSC), and voila!
To make a non-powered unit, envision running a line from the top of the cylinder to the bottom. If you were to actually do this, the piston would move in and out but not stay in any one position.
To provide a locking feature, install a gas- or water-service ball valve (not a gate valve) in the imaginary line between the lower and upper fittings using two shorter lines, instead of the one long one.
A plugged tee at the top and bottom fittings helps bleeding as it is very important. Otherwise it becomes a shock absorber and will be very "limp" when you use the hitch. To use it, simply open the valve, lift the 3pt to the desired position, close the valve and yer off! With a little forethought, you can locate the valve close to the operator seat so you can adjust it on the fly.
I use my box scraper a lot but sometimes it leaves windrows. No problem. Raise the hitch, open and keep open the valve and go. Now, with higher speeds when the bacl of the tilted scraper, when it hits the windrows the material blasts away the rows. And because it is running "limp" at the top there's no danger of hitting a solid obstruction and it follows the curvature of the land. ....
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 | cutter
Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 1307 The South Shore of Lake Ontario, New York
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2007-10-18 147116
I put a set of Western Snow Plow shoes on my rear blade and that works fine. Glad I don't need to use just the rear blade any longer, one winter was enough of that with the old AC D12. ....
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