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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal Forum

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 01-29-2000, 00:00 Post: 12326
David Liberman



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 Snow scraping

I am the only one in the neighborhood with a tractor so I want to scape about 3 miles of gravel roads. I am also a total novice at this. Should my blade have some runners on the bottom edge so I don't tear up the gravel? If so where does one get them? Any other pointers would be appreciated. Thanks.David






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 01-29-2000, 00:00 Post: 12333
Steve in Buffalo NY



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 Snow-scraping

Two things to do when pushing snow with the bucket: 1- Dump it someplace occasionally. 2- Tilt the bucket back so the leading edge is just up (1"-2"Wink yeah right off of the raod. 3- Use the "float" position on the bucket lift so the bucket will just skid along and follow the contours of the road. Works fine for me that way. Have fun being the neighborhood hero!






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 01-30-2000, 00:00 Post: 12344
Tom G



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 Snow-scraping

The main thing about snow removal is planning where to put it so there's room for more, and making sure you don't dam up the drainage. Eventually it melts, and you don't want unexpected lakes.

If the blade is a loader bucket, plowing 3 miles might be a big job. I find that the snow doesn't clear off the front of the bucket very well. If there's much snow, I don't go too far before the bucket fills up, pushes the snow straight ahead and I bog down. Then, I have to dump the bucket. Slipping tires doesn't do anything for unfrozen gravel roads either. The technique described by Steve is what I do before the gravel freezes and when there's not enough snow to use a blower.

If the blade is a real blade and the gravel isn't frozen, then some practice might be in order. If it's a front blade, then you'll have to used to much less steering--true for a loader bucket as well. Some people comment that a back blade turned around and used in reverse works well, but you have to get used to driving backwards and may have to mount a rear work light.

More practice: A floated blade is likely to dig in. Skids probably help, but unless the gravel is well bedded, skids cut grooves and the blade will dig in anyway. At least the skids on my blower cut grooves. Well, I didn't go too far before deciding that blowing rocks 40' into the yard wasn't a good idea. Stuck with the loader bucket until the gravel froze.

The blade will certainly dig in if it's held several inches above the road and there are any hills or dips. You have to ride the lift control--something I haven't been too good at. Need more practice. I don't have a blade, but I'm guessing that skids might be helpful since they would give some warning that the blade should be lifted.

If you have draft control, a back blade with the control adjusted full light might work better than floating the blade. Well, you just have to try and see what works for you. However, don't worry too much if the gravel is frozen. Frozen gravel is pretty durable. I tried to get rid of some frozen rain on top of the gravel. Couldn't make a dint in the stuff. Going to put some chains on the truck and run over it a lot instead.

All in all, it should be fun if you've got the time. But, if I was planning to do 3 miles with a loader bucket, I'd think twice about giving iron clad guarantees when it would get done.






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 01-30-2000, 00:00 Post: 12357
David Liberman



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 Snow-scraping

I have been using a rear blade in the forward position but cocked off to one side so the snow goes off to the sides of the road. On the really packed snow I don't make a dent- just skid over it. As you mentioned the blade dips up and down in response to the road surface and I can see gravel being turned over. How much?????? I guess I will just have to develope a delicate touch on the lift control since I don't have draft control.

I have noticed plows on the front of pickups with "runners" but they are on pavement not gravel. That is what brought it to mind. Thanks.

David

David






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 01-30-2000, 00:00 Post: 12363
JJT



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 Snow-scraping

3 miles of gravel with a loader - I'll bet you only do it once. My drive is 1000', plowed it for years with a truck. Recently switched to a Kubota L3710 with a blower. Works like a charm, no snow banks and you only handle the snow once. I will use the bucket to clean out the mail box and the garage doors and wood shed.

For 3 miles of gravel road - get a front mounted plow.






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 01-30-2000, 00:00 Post: 12365
David Liberman



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 Snow-scraping

Sorry I did not make it clear in my original posting. I have a front loader but I have been using a rear blade (Monroe-Tufline GB-1, five ft. width) in forward position for snow work.

David






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 01-31-2000, 00:00 Post: 12371
Tom G



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 Snow-scraping

David:

There was a post last summer that talked about skids on his blade cutting grooves in the gravel. A response said that he mounted small wheels instead of skids and the wheels didn't cut grooves. Didn't hear any more about it. I did check the idea out with a dealer. The dealer couldn't find wheel type skids in any assessory catalogue. Said they could fabricate some though.

If your floated blade rides over the snow, you could try adding some weight to the blade--sand bags or something. Haven't done it myself. Maybe somebody else has experience. Damage to the gravel would be increased though.

If you've been reading these boards, guess you know that some people turn their rear blades around and plow backwards. Suppose that's the only thing that could be done if you ever got a snow you couldn't drive through. Better traction and steering, and no packed tire tracks too.

Up here were the normal lows this time of year are near 0 F, gravel freezes as hard as any pavement so I don't have your problem. Guess I'm happy for that.






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 01-31-2000, 00:00 Post: 12380
MichaelSnyder

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 Snow-scraping

Dave,
First thing ya need to do is estimate how often you expect to plow snow, based upon snowfalls for your area. Of course, you have to expect years like this one where I've needed to plow snow almost every other day. Having a big expensive snow blower laying around for 10 months out of 12 is hardly worth while, unless you have the extra space, money, and can use it enough to get your money out of it...eventually. This year especially, I would LOVE a snowblower on my 4100. But this would be the first year I really could have used one in...OH say the past 3-4, maybe 5 years. A loader Blade from a maker like Curtis may be the best of both worlds. Definitey less costly, and it can be used in summer. Personnally, I'm satisfied with the loader/bucket combo.. Of course I'm used to operating a hand shovel for hours on end, so the loader is a god sent. I spray the inside of the bucket with that automotive "waterless" car wash stuff, to keep the snow from sticking to the bucket. Maybe if I lived in a snowbelt I would think differently, but I just can't justify a couple thousand dollars to have that extra margin of convenience once or twice a year. I'd rather buy an enclosed cab for the 20-40MPH winds we've been having lately. Besides, you said you have a rear blade, use this for cleaning up what the bucket leaves behind. And if you don't have a bucket level indicator..buy one. I marked mine with increments of 2", so I don't have to guess if my bucket is level or tilted/angled 2" or 4". OMO.






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 01-31-2000, 00:00 Post: 12398
Eben Morrow



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 Snow-scraping

For what it is worth...Have used a 1050 with a Rhino LB pushing snow backwards for 16 years and except for occasional greater than 10-12 in snows worked fine for the few we get here in central VA. I bought an 8 ft Curtis snow blade 3 years ago and set it up for 75 loader on 1050. Installed it once for a marginally bladeable snow just because I had it. Hardly worth the trouble fooling with the pins and muscling things around to get them to fit. Just traded for 5310 and modified JD bale spear/pallet fork adapter with a simple adapter arrangement dealer and I came up with (and he threw in on the deal) for the Curtis blade. Have used it for several hours twice in the last week and the quick attach totally takes the effort out of switching. Found that with blade angled to right that if I keep the left skid shoe (which is set about 1/2 in below edge of blade) in the center of the gravel road I don't dig too much, in fact hardly at all. I then touch up with a back blade facing forward, angled about 30-35 degrees and pushing backwards. It does stir up the gravel a bit but it packs back down (a possible advantage is that the stirred up gravel mixes with snow, darkens it and helps it melt). I am now using a heavier blade (Gill 84 -wish I had gotten a 96) and it does a better job touching up than the lighter Rhino. Admittedly, this backwards pushing takes getting used to but it ain't too much worse than watching hay equipment on hilly ground. Eben






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Snowblowers / Snow Plows / Removal Forum

Thread 12326 Filter by Poster:
David Liberman 3 | Eben Morrow 1 | JJT 1 | MichaelSnyder 1 | Steve in Buffalo NY 1 | Tom G 2 |




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