Tiller vs. Ground Breaking Implements: Tillers and Ploughs  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review Tiller vs. Ground Breaking Implements: Tillers and Ploughs -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tillers and Ploughs Forum

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 09-11-1999, 00:00 Post: 7874
Bob



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 Tiller vs. Ground Breaking Implements

A new JD 550 tiller for my 4100 HST tractor costs around $2150. The question is: when do you you use a tiller and when do you use fixed implements (e.g. moldboard plow, springtooth, harrow). Does anyone make such implements that can be pulled by a 4100? What do they cost? What about other tiller brands, e.g. Land Pride or Rhino? Would also appreciate comments on tiller applications and use in different soil conditions. We want to (try to) plant grapes on about 1 acre, will also use to lightly till some large areas around house to aid in getting grass started. Soil is clay but does crumble when balled up. Thanks.






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 09-11-1999, 00:00 Post: 7880
Larry



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 Tiller vs. Ground Breaking Implements

I thought about the JD 550 tiller for my 4100 too. I bought a Tractor Supply co. 58" tiller for $999.99. I think it is a Befco tiller and it has worked great. I have great soil with few rocks. I have burried the tiller and the 4100 does not even slow down. The TSC tiller is offsettable and has a shear pin not a clutch. For $1200 I can buy a lot of shear pins (plus it comes with two extras just in case). The JD 550 tiller is grossley over priced in my book.






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 09-12-1999, 00:00 Post: 7891
RCH



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 Tiller vs. Ground Breaking Implements

I have a Landpride 25-60 tiller (60" with 9 sets of tines)that I use on a Ford 1910(~30hp). Although I have a 2-14 moldboard plow I rarely use it. Even with a big 40`x80` garden it takes 6` to get in and out of the ground. I brought the plow to fall plow 3 to 4 acres for planting seedlings by machine in the spring. Big mistake-it prevented me getting into to the field early til the ground dried enough.For spring machine tree planting the best is to mow a hay field in the fall,spray with Round-up just befor planting in the spring. This keeps the ground firm enough to get them in the gound early and provides ~6 weeks weed control.If I have to replant segments I use the tiller which gives me several weeks of weed control.I use the tiller for leveling along with the front-end bucket as a grader.It is a great counter wieght for heavy front loader work because it`s compact and heavy.I wish I had a creeper range for both the tiller and rear snow blower. My advise on a tiller is over buy-the extra wieght helps penetration and these machines have self-desruction built into their soul,especially if you have rock.Newer Landprides tillers have the ability to reverse--what is the experience with this? After 8 years the chain box seal leaks but I pumped it full of gun grease and it is still going.How long can I get away with that?






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 09-12-1999, 00:00 Post: 7892
RCH



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 Tiller vs. Ground Breaking Implements

Regarding a tiller planting grass.I broadcast fertilizer and any lime needed and then till it.This leaves the area very fluffy.I then broadcast grass seed by hand or a chest-held hand crank broadcaster machine.Then I have a 4 foot roller I pull behind a lawn tractor with turf tires.This presses the seed into the "fluff" and generally erases the footprints and tiller grooves. I don`t need any cover like staw because the seed has preesed into the soil. Then,of course,gently water. I suppose a real heavy rain could defeat me but that even happens with straw cover.






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 09-12-1999, 00:00 Post: 7893
RCH



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 Tiller vs. Ground Breaking Implements

LANDPRIDE 25-60 tiller price. I brought mine 8 years ago.At that time it was $230 cheaper and weighed in 40% heavier.Green paint can be exspensive.






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 09-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 7923
MichaelSnyder

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 Tiller vs. Ground Breaking Implements

I hear many speak of planting grass in fresh soil, but what about existing established lawns that have dead spots from this summer's drought? This is the dilemma for many in my area. What to do, what to do. Not exactly easy to just pull up and dispose of the old sod. Then proceed in preparing the soil for planting.






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 09-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 7935
RCH



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We had this problem in 1988 in WI.Rent a dethatcher,do the involved areas, broadcast seed and roll it in.You can do it late fall and it will sprout first thing in the spring--IF IT RAINS.Maybe a little dance would help.






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 09-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 7939
MichaelSnyder

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 Tiller vs. Ground Breaking Implements

RCH,My father is kinda like Tim the "yard tool" man Taylor. He has a core aireator, power rake/thatcher (tines/combs,not metal flales), seeder and a roller. The main problem isn't the "green", its the "what" is green. That being mostly weeds like crab grass and such. I'm sure I could spray "something" for this problem, but that will only leave us with larger areas of brown. I was thinking of going over everything with the core aireator like 4-5 times to really dig things up. Then use the power rake to thatch and break up the cores of dirt/sod. Then proceed with seeding & rolling like you mentioned. The last time I remember replacing a yard(my fathers) we had a local farmer disc the lawn, then removed the sod, mostly by hand. I'm sure you can imagine the amount of work that was. I have no intentions of doing that again. As you indicated, fall seems to be the time for re-seeding, but doesn't most of the seed disappear till spring? Why wouldn't you re-seed in spring? Guess I just don't want to spend alot of time and money, only to be disappointed in spring. BTW, we have 2 acres.






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 09-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 7945
RCH



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Salvaging a drought-stricken lawn;obviously you can`t do much with 2 acres til it rains.The crab grass is hardy stuff as is some of the broadleafs.To me the trick is to give them Competition with grass. That means get it up first in ideal conditions. One of the reasons fall grass planting is so good is weeds don`t sprout anew in the fall and this gives you a stand thats raring to go in the spring. I`d check ph ,nitrogen,potash,phosphorus and "idealize" them,till and/or dethatch appropiate areas. I`d broadcast a heavy dose of a high percentage of creeping fescue and rye late fall.Hopefully the rye and fescue will dominate early spring reducing the niche for the undesirables. When the ground is firm enough in the spring I`d use some light equipment to broadcast a high nitrogen time-released fertlizer(Scotts Turf Builder is the arch type but there are now "generics" out there i.e. good ole Fleet-Farm in our area) I avoid herbicides except Round-up up front as discussed above. A lot of mowing discourages some weeds. I suppose after new growth grass has hardened off you could use some Weed & Feed or such but I got kids ,a well etc.The organic matter of the dead sod will hold the seed in place over winter. If you live at a lower latitude than I(~45) you may yet have a chance to get a stand before the growing season is over--if it rains! Good Luck,RCH






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 09-13-1999, 00:00 Post: 7949
turfman



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mls,just a few comments. If you have a lot of crabgrass try just scalping the yard with a mower and catching the clippings. This sounds like a lot of work (for 2 acres) but you will remove a lot of crabgrass seeds for next year. Now timing is everything. Depending on where you live you can still get this done this year if you are not too far north (above I-90). But you have to get it done in the next week. If you live above I90 I'd do the mowing and wait about 3 weeks to seed so that the seed won't come up till next year. The advantage of gettion a stand this year is that you can apply a crabgrass preventer next year and hold out some of the weeds. Now that he area is ready, use the aerator and poke the living hell out of the lawn. As many times as you dare (4 or 5) in different directions. Once that is done, spread seed and use a drag mat (even a piece of chain link fence will work) and drag the area well to break up the cores and bury the seed in the holes. The advantage of core aeration and seeding is that the holes will hold the seed and some moisture when the rest is dry. The seed will still germinate in the holes and stolen out if you fertilize it well about 3 week after it germinates. Even without the fertilizer it will still grow. One last comment on seed, buy a good seed that suits the area you are seeding, don't just throw out a 3 way mix from the farm store. go to a seed house and get the best seed for the area that you can afford. there are about 400 varieties of bluegrass that are suited to certian needs and almost as many ryes and fescues. Make sure that you get the fescue you want, many times i have seen people ask for fescue wanting a fine leaf and ending up with tall fescue in the mix and getting a bigger mess. Hope this helps you, and good luck. mike






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Tillers and Ploughs Forum

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