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 09-13-2007, 09:31 Post: 145665
Hettric



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 Corrugated Roofing

I'm looking for some info. I am going to put corrugated metal roof on my existing shop. This is a shed roof with 2" in 12" pitch, There is now 2 layers of rolled roofing and 1 layer of asphalt shingles on top, all in bad shape. I my strip this off as I go, If it doesn't prove to "pesky". My questions- Fastening the metal,the manufacturer is not overly informative but shows ether nails through the "high points" or screws through the "low points", can anyone comment on the reasons for this? I wish to use screws, but think holes in the "high points" will be less likely to leak. . What is the best Barrier to put under the metal? Tivek? I assume the is condensation under the metal.
Thanks






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 09-13-2007, 10:46 Post: 145669
AC5ZO

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 Corrugated Roofing

I would go with screws. Personally I have had trouble with nails working their way out of wood over time. Screws have not done that. The screws on my roof have rubber gaskets around the head to prevent leakage. They work, I have zero leaks.

Years ago, I had a metal roof installed over an existing roof. The contractor laid down 1 X 2 wood strips perpendicular to the roof trusses and laid open fiberglass insulation between the wood. The metal roof was nailed to the wood strips. There was no additional water barrier beyond the old roof. The only leaks that I ever had were caulk joints around roof penetrations. The nails did tend to work out of the wood strips, which is why I recommended screws like I have on my current shop roof.






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 09-13-2007, 11:31 Post: 145671
JasonR



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 Corrugated Roofing

If you're going to strip off the old roof, seriously consider a 'standing seam' roof. The roof attaches via a clip method, resulting in no screws through the roof panel. Can't leak through nail or screw holes if you don't have any.






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 09-13-2007, 16:53 Post: 145687
hardwood

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 Corrugated Roofing

AZ5CO; I agree screws are far and above nails, they just don't seem to ever work loose. We've always nailed or screwed on top of the rib, it just looked like it was more correct. The other point I wanted to bring up is that we have did as you did in the past with 2X3's laid crossways of the rafters on top of the old shingles with no plastic under the steel. Now I've been hearing stories about doing as we and you did 25 years ago and now the condesation melting off the unndeside of the steel during the winter is rotting the crossways 2X3's. Now they want a sheet of plastic between the nailers and the steel so the condensation can run down under the steel to the eaves. Frank.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Barns Pole Barns Forum

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