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 10-09-2003, 18:39 Post: 65903
Mike1819



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 1985 Ford 1910 4x4 tractor

I just recently bought this tractor and I'm having a hard time finding stuf about it. Anyone familier with a 1910 4x4?
Is this a good tractor?

First tractor I 've ever bought and really don't know a whole lot about them.

Thanks






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 10-09-2003, 20:35 Post: 65913
loghouse95



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 1985 Ford 1910 4x4 tractor

try Tractortips.com Might help you some Good luck






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 10-09-2003, 20:38 Post: 65914
kwschumm



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 1985 Ford 1910 4x4 tractor

I'm not sure what you're looking for, but some research on tractortips turned up that the 1910 was manufactured from 1983-1986. It has a 3 cyl Shibaura 103.9 ci engine with 23 PTO hp and it cost around $9700 new. I don't know if they're a "good tractor" or not but Ford/NH still uses Shibaura engines and it's probably fairly well built. Any used tractor can be good or bad depending on hours and how it was stored and maintained.






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 10-10-2003, 06:19 Post: 65927
TomG

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 1985 Ford 1910 4x4 tractor

I think the 1910 is one place where there's an error in the tractortips data. My 1710 has 23 dot something pto hp and 1910's have about 4 more hp. I've noticed the error before and suppose I should e-mail them. The displacement likely is right since my 1710 is a bit over 85 cu. in.

Overall they are good tractors and there are still several in commercial service around here. They are fairly well supported by NH although some parts aren't in inventory and others are obsolete. My 1710 has an optional synchromesh TX that also has live pto. The 12x4 synchromesh TX is very desirable. In addition to live pto, it can be shifted from foreward to reverse on the fly for loader work. The optional 12 x 4 TX has one shifter on the steering column and the other on the TX.

The hydraulic capacity is decent for an older tractor. I think 1910's have about 8gmp to the hydraulics whether it has PS or not. PS is driven from the main pump on these tractors so the rated flow is not what you get for hydraulic operations if it has PS. I have heard an opinion that the front drive shaft to differential coupling isn't particularly strong and it may be wise to avoid 4wd use on high traction surfaces and take it easy going into piles with a loader. I haven't had any problems myself nor I think have most owners. I do have turf tires which limits load on the front drive a bit.

My main complaint is that the PS steering is pretty weak with a loader and turf tires and quite a bit of 3ph ballast is needed to keep the steering reasonably light. Rather than running on, I'll be happy to respond to any additional questions.






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 10-10-2003, 22:47 Post: 65994
Mike1819



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 1985 Ford 1910 4x4 tractor

This tractor has 1100 hrs right now. It came with the front end loader, a 770A I think, a straight blade, 72" finish mower and a box blade. 7000 Was this a good price?

I mainly use the bush hog (which I bought later), the straight blade for my driveway which is a little over 1/4 mile and for mowing.

I do plan to clean up a lot of down trees and brush.

Does this tractor do well on hill sides?

Any info here wouyld be great!






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 10-11-2003, 08:22 Post: 66017
TomG

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 1985 Ford 1910 4x4 tractor

Oops, I can't do much for those questions. I don't have a good sense of prices here let alone elsewhere. There are plenty of hills here but I don't have to operate on them.

It's likely a decent price and I'd say the tractor is probably average on hills. Operation of any tractor on hills takes some experience and there's lot of good information in the archives if you're new to tractors. A lot depends on what the tractor is doing, which tires it has and what soil conditions exist. There aren't any reliable Mac-rules although there are a few general principles. Post again if this is a subject of interest. We go through it from time to time.

I don't have a rear blade but I do almost all my landscaping work and gravel drive maintenance with a box scrapper. The trouble with blades is that they can't drag material around and spread it elsewhere unless they have end-plates. Of course, scrapers don't do so well at ditching pulling material along the front of the blade and depositing it off one end or building crowns either. I work around the limitations of a box because I shoot better grades and get better finishing with a scraper. However, I didn't find the scraper very useful until I got a hydraulic top-link.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Other Tractor Brands Forum

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