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 03-08-2003, 20:27 Post: 50781
BUSBOY



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 trailer tie downs

I just bought a new tc-33 and am wondering what is the best way to tie the tractor down on the trailer.There is a large ring under the tractor that looks like it might used for this.What is best, web type straps or chains and boomers?






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 03-09-2003, 06:46 Post: 50802
TomG

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I think best is transport chain around each axle near the wheels to anchor points and secured with load binders. A local trucker once put my Ford on his flat-bed along with a dozer. I think he use two chains side to side and around the axles and again secured with load-binders, which are essential when using chain for tie downs. That's probably adequate as well. Some people do use nylon web ratchet types, but there's always the risk of it getting cut. I haven't seen nylon web type used by any commercial carriers around here but maybe it's common elsewhere. Local transport regs may determine what is used.

You might describe the trailer and it's tie-down points so people here who really know their trailering can comment.






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 03-09-2003, 09:18 Post: 50805
DRankin



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 trailer tie downs

I use the heavy web and ratchet gizmo's and they work very well. Even after long pulls(130 miles) at highway speeds they are still tight.

Did you get a backhoe with the tractor? Some states apparently require the boom to be secured with a separate strap or chain to prevent it from swinging.






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 03-09-2003, 09:22 Post: 50806
cutter



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To the best of my knowledge, chain is required in NY. We had a crew truck run off the road a few years ago by someone passing a car in his lane. The truck was towing a triple axle trailer with a new 4x4 Case CK. The trailer took the ditch, the truck did a 180. Both chains broke when the trailer rolled over and fortunately everything went to the right rather than the left. A friend of mine was driving the truck, I was close behind. The young man driving the car took off but we had his license plate number. I don't imagine his insurance company liked the bill from our company that approached 100k. I can imagine what would have happened if straps were used rather than chains, as it were the whole rig held together until the trailer rolled in the sod.






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 03-09-2003, 17:37 Post: 50827
AC5ZO

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I haul my TC45 around on a 10000# auto trailer and I use straps. I use the extra heavy 2" with rip stop edge protection. I secure one strap around the front axle and then rachet it tight. I secure two more straps from in front of the wheels; around the axle; and then to the rear of the trailer. On occasions, I will also wrap around the loader and backhoe with additional straps, if they are on the tractor. I wrap the straps around where they will not contact any sharp edges or corners. I also set the tractor brakes.

I used to haul a lot of equipment and only used chains and binders. But, after running many years carrying loads in fast trucks during the Baja 500 and 1000 races secured only with nylon straps, I have changed my mind. I have had chains break, but I have never had a strap break or come loose. If a strap gets frayed or a cut starts, get it repaired right away.







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 03-09-2003, 18:47 Post: 50834
Jeff Earthwerks Unlimited



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 trailer tie downs

Just a safety note on the gold-colored cast ring found on the bottom of New Hollands like my 33D:

My dealer gave me a bunch of them that were take-offs but warned me that they were prone to breakage---several farmers had used them as lifting rings with disasterous results. According to him they are only "shipping rings" that are intended to be removed upon delivery. My thoughts are that even though the two attaching bolts may look stout all it take is a fair amount of vibration (constant tugging up and down, back and forth) and the bolts could back out

When I tie down my machine, I have a 3" rope/chain shackle that put through the draw bar then ratchet-chain binder it down. The front rests against the inside of the dump trailer which is a no-no--it should be tied down too.






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 03-10-2003, 04:53 Post: 50856
TomG

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Sounds like it's good that Jeff identified the shipping ring. I wondered what it was when I first read Bus's post.

An idea I omitted from my comment is that it's good to sit everything down on the trailer bed. Tractors in transport can receive shock loads far greater than from normal operation. Loaders and implements that are up can place a lot of stress on the tractor. If tongue weight and anchor points permit, it's also good to run the tractor against the front of the trailer.






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 03-10-2003, 07:40 Post: 50870
Peters

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 trailer tie downs

I would normally have my bucket on the tractor and hook chains to the hooks on the bucket. I chain the back on the tow bar. I worry about chaining to the front axel housings as I have heard of them being cracked.
I place the tractor on the trailer with the bucket against the front C channel, apply the brakes and make sure it is in 4x. The tractor really does not move around much.
The chains are there to keep the tractor from moving forward on back. If you roll the trailer as described here the chains will not likely hold no matter what.
I rented a car hauler once and it had the nylon straps for tie downs.






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 03-10-2003, 08:56 Post: 50875
AC5ZO

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It is hard for me to believe that I am going to crack my front axle housing with a nylon strap. The load is spread out over a two inch wide area. When I attach the webbing, I lace it around the housings. There are no twists, knots, or routing over sharp items. A chain on the other hand will induce high stress where the links contact other metal. The straps are also stretchy, so they will give somewhat a spring back where other attachment methods could cause breakage.

I do not attach to my bucket on my loader because I ordered it with the quick-attach option. It uses two spring toggle pins that hold the bucket on. I have never had one come loose while using it, but it seems that road vibration and shock could make one open up, so I don't tie down there.

I forgot to mention in my last post that I have used large flatbed trucks that have webbing rachets built right onto the side of the bed. These are used for hauling very large machinery and from my experience use 4" or 6" webbing.

I agree with previous posts that recommend running the tractor against the trailer front. I do that and tie the front down in addition.






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 03-10-2003, 16:55 Post: 50902
cutter



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I used the roll-over example to stress how easily and quickly something can go wrong and how even extremely heavy tie downs can be broken. In other words, don't use too light a material. We always tie to the front tractor frame and to the backhoe frame when hauling a tractor. I use the lifting/towing rings on the track vehicles and we use chain tighteners on everything, not ratcheting mechanisms that could damage castings through over tightening. If traveling a long distance, it is a good idea to re-tension regularly. A rubber mallet is excellent for removing slack while tensioning chains.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > New Holland Tractor Review Forum

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AC5ZO 2 | BUSBOY 2 | cutter 2 | DRankin 1 | Jeff Earthwerks Unlimited 1 | Peters 1 | TomG 2 |




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