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 11-17-2002, 19:23 Post: 45078
pat



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 battery corrosion

I have a 3 month old td33d, and have corrosion problems all around the battery area. Is there acure for this besides constant cleaning? Also I want to buy a rear blade. Not sure of size or brand. I am loking at 6' landpride or woods.Is 6' wide enough,and what is a good price for these brands? Will use mostly for snow removal. thanks, pat






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 11-17-2002, 19:41 Post: 45081
Billy

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 battery corrosion

Clean the terminals and any metal parts that are corroded with a wire brush then wash with baking soda water. Then rub some grease on the terminals and metal parts that were corroded. This is the best and cheapest thing I know to do.

Billy






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 11-17-2002, 22:04 Post: 45084
Peters

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 battery corrosion

A battery gets a lot of pounding in a tractor with no suspension. I would check that you do not have a crack or leakage. A battery should not corrode that fast unless you have leakage. One of the prime areas for leakage is the seals around the posts. If you have acid around the battery posts then the seals are leaking and the battery needs to be replaced. You can check for the acid with the baking soda. Under warranty in this case.
Peters






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 11-18-2002, 05:46 Post: 45087
Billy

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You right Peters, it shouldn't be corroded at this early stage. Another couple of reasons for this problem come to mind though. Could it be the tractor being used at extreme slopes, causing the battery acid to seep through the plugs? Or the tractor over charging, causing the acid to boil out?

Billy






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 11-18-2002, 07:10 Post: 45094
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 battery corrosion

A problem discussed here awhile back was a very good thread. The discussion was about a battery venting problem. Corrosive fumes were sucked through the rad. General corrosion and a shot rad were reported. Various solutions and I think a factory fix was identified. Unfortunately I can't recall if the tractors discussed were NH or JD.






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 11-18-2002, 08:22 Post: 45098
Peters

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 battery corrosion

I believe the thread in question was a JD.
Mix your baking soda with water and then drop it on the top of the battery if you have acid around the vents then it is boil over, if it is near the posts then there is a problem.
During the battery construction an expoxi sealant is poured around the posts to seal the post area. This is under the polypropylene cap. If the seal is bad then the acid leaks around the posts and corrodes the connections quickly.






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 11-18-2002, 18:52 Post: 45124
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no corrosion around conections. I can't say about overcharging, (idiot lights instead of gauges). Also I talked to guys I work with, and they have the same problem. corrosion is on the battery baseplate and the bolts on the hood latch. thanks for the advice. tractor is a NH.






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 11-19-2002, 06:36 Post: 45137
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 battery corrosion

I'd do the battery cleanup and inspection stuff and see if the battery gets hot after prolonged operation to informally check the over-charging question.

There are formal tests described in manuals for testing the entire charging system. However, the formal tests, at least for my 1710, use a variable carbon pile load that few people would have. The general idea is that normal operation of an alternator/regulator/battery can't be checked except when they're under a load, and a known load makes for more accurate results. Some automotive work avoids the need for loads by turning on all lights, blowers etc. for a load but tractors usually don't have enough accessories to create adequate test loads. Besides, a test load for my 1710 would come close to blowing the main fusable link.

Nobody commented on the blade question. The big-name manufacturers have sites that give specs for their products. Recommended HP range usually is given, which I interpret as PTO HP. The recommendations tend to be a bit conservative but are good guides. I don't have a blade so I can't say what to expect, but I run a 6' box scraper with 24 HP and turf tires. I think scrapers take more HP than blades. Of course it depends on how they're used. I think the TC is around 28 HP and the rear tires track around 5'. A 6' blade would cover the tracks but wouldn't allow much angling and still cover the tracks. The TC might carry a bigger blade OK but maybe somebody has experience.






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 11-19-2002, 10:16 Post: 45169
treeman



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 battery corrosion

I had the same experience with the battery after I bought the tractor one year ago. I was on the look-out for the problem because I had read about it here. I made a baking soda solution to stop the acid. I have been waiting for a sealed battery or one like my garden tractor that has a vent tube you can route to the ground. Many of us are waiting for the same battery. The vent caps were not designed very well on these batteries.

I bought a Rhino 6ft. blade when I bought the tractor. The blade was new but the paint was faded and it had a few rust spots started. They sold it to me for $100. I'm happy with it and plan on repainting next year.






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 11-19-2002, 16:52 Post: 45180
MikeN
2002-11-19 00:00:00
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 battery corrosion

Qouted about $400 for a WOODS RB72' rear blade. Skid shoes run about $100 more. I plan on buying one soon for snow removal. Have ordered a TC33d and prefer the 6 foot size blade.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > New Holland Tractor Review Forum

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Billy 2 | cdcole 1 | Chief 2 | cutter 1 | Larry B 1 | MikeN 1 | pat 3 | Peters 2 | slowrev 1 | Stan in Calif 1 | TomG 2 | treeman 3 | userid 1 |




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