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 03-07-2001, 16:35 Post: 25161
Robert Weiler



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Have any of you boomer owners had any trouble with starting your tractor when it's in netural between 1st & 2nd? The sear on mine sometimes won't depress the safety switch. I have to either put it in netural between 1st & 3rd or get off the tractor & while holding the switch closed with my right hand, turn the key with my left (the only time I use this method is when I park it on a grade and the selector won't move past 1st). Just one more thing to cause trouble.Robert






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 03-07-2001, 16:49 Post: 25163
Becky B



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Mine started doing that around 70 hours or so. My dealer offered to look at it, but said there wasn't much they could do. He suggested putting a tie wrap around the switch. Then I could start it in gear. That may not be real safe but it sure is a heck of a lot safer than holding it with your hand while you turn the key! That makes about the fourth problem I've had with ol blue. I'd like to talk to the designers! I'd tell them a thing or 3.
Becky






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 03-07-2001, 18:56 Post: 25169
Dave in New Hampshire



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Becky B. I'm a new owner of a TC40D, and have already encountered problems with the ROPS. But I'm interested in the other problems you have found... it will help me look out for them. BTW, my engine seems to warm to normal operating temperatures even during this mild winter weather. Dave






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 03-07-2001, 19:06 Post: 25170
RickB.



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To Becky and others experiencing difficulty with the Neutral Safety Switch on the transmission range linkage: This is not an insurmuntable problem! Yes it is annoying and No, it shouldn't happen, but the switch just needs to be readjusted. A few very early Boomers needed the switch bracket changed due to a redesign. If your dealer is telling you 'there isn't much I can do', tell him to learn how to adjust that switch and get yours fixed! Bypassing the NSS or tripping it manually is not the answer, as we all know. If your dealer can't/won't help, let NH know, they will read the riot act to a dealer refusing to address this kind of safety hazard.






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 03-07-2001, 19:47 Post: 25174
Larry in MI.



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The Credit Union and I own a TC35D. I have not had a problem with the Neutral Safety Switch but I have noticed that the temp. guage never moves. I'm not sure if it is a problem with the engine not getting warm or the temp. guage. I'm guessing it is the temp. guage because the engine seems to run fine after a short warm up period. I am very pleased with the tractor so far to include the folding ROPS. Please keep in mind that I only have 6.5 hours on the tractor so far and may find some problems in the future.






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 03-08-2001, 06:15 Post: 25184
Donald



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I didn't start having "problems" with my 29D till at about 110 hours. First it was the PTO Safety switch, then I had trouble with the range selector (I just bent it up a little, seems to have helped), Now I am having problems with my steering. I guess the more things on a tractor - the more that can go wrong with it. Bout the only thing that works real good is my ROPS.






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 03-08-2001, 06:17 Post: 25185
TomG

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Larry: It could be a wiring problem. I had the temp gauge on my Ford 1710 do that several times. I cleaned contacts, jiggled connectors etc., and the problem disappeared. However, the condition was startling. On the 1710, zero current through the sensor and gauge, due to an open circuit, produces a full-hot reading on the gauge. You might note if your gauge reads full-hot or full-cold with the engine off. I guess that's good design on the 1710 since I can tell the difference between 'the gauge isn't working' and 'the engine isn't warming up'.






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 03-08-2001, 09:14 Post: 25196
Todd Peirce



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Larry,

I have a TC40D and the temp. guage did not change either. My problem was with the coolant drain hose on the right side of the engine. It was recirculating the coolant even with the thermostat closed. Try pinching off the hose with vice grips and see if the temp. rises. There is a post here called "Operating Temp" that discusses the issue. To resolve it I put a shut-off valve in the hose. That way I can close it to reach operating temp and open it when I want to drain the coolant. My dealer found a nice brass valve for me.

Todd






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 03-08-2001, 09:19 Post: 25198
Frank



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To Larry in MI. and all the rest of you with TC's that will not warm up. I to have a TC35D and my temp gauge never moved. Your coolant is bypassing the thermostat by flowing down the drain tube on the right side of your engine and into the radiator and right back into the engine via the bottom radiator hose.
Try this just as a test to prove this theory. Clamp off with a pair of vicegrips
the rubber drain hose (gently so you dont ruin the rubber hose) In 10 minutes or less your gauge will read in the middle of the green. Then call you dealer and tell him to install a shut off or new drain valve to stop this flow of coolant.
This is the 1/2 inch black rubber hose on the bottom right that the drain valve is connected into. Be careful your vicegrips dont get into the fan blade. NH is working on this and is aware but they are keeping it a secret. ALL of you who have been writing about puting cardboard in front of your radiator to get it to warm up also have this problem. Try this test then call your dealer and insist on a fix. Diesels must run hot, you will damage your engine if you run it cold.






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 03-08-2001, 09:22 Post: 25199
Russ DenBleyker



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RickB is right. My 1925 had the same problem with the switch. The dealer adjusted it and I have had no problem since.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > New Holland Tractor Review Forum

Thread 25161 Filter by Poster:
Becky B 1 | Dave in New Hampshire 1 | Donald 1 | Frank 1 | Larry in MI. 1 | RickB. 1 | Robert Weiler 1 | Russ DenBleyker 1 | Todd Peirce 1 | TomG 1 |




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