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 01-31-2001, 18:01 Post: 23842
Larry in MI.



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 Newholland price check

I am considering the purchase of a TC29D with 7308 loader and turf tires. What is the going price for this set up?? I have received unofficial quotes from a local dealer and an out of state dealer. The local wants $19,090 and the out of state dealer wants $17,300. This seems like a very large difference. Are all of the D series MFWD and hydro trans??






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 01-31-2001, 18:14 Post: 23843
Bird Senter

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My cousin bought a TC29D last year with the 7308 front end loader, R4 tires, Bush Hog brand 62" tiller, 5' rotary cutter, and post hole digger, plus a 5' box blade (I don't know the brand on it) for $21,800. And as far as I know, the D series Boomers are all hydro and 4WD.






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 02-01-2001, 17:17 Post: 23852
Michael



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 Newholland price check

I bought a TC29S w/MFWD, calcium-filled R4s, 7308 loader with HD 60" bucket, folding ROPS, deluxe 3ph, and engine-heater for $14,900. For comparison purposes, add $1,500 for the deluxe package and deduct $100-200 for the difference between R4s and turfs. With these numbers, your quotes seem high to me. According to the brochure, all deluxe models are FWD.






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 02-01-2001, 19:31 Post: 23856
Larry in MI.



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Thanks for the replies. I visited a second local dealer and he is much more in line with what the price should be. He still may be about $200 high but I liked the guy. I will probably buy the tractor from him. My confusion over the hydro issue was caused by the fact that the TC29D has a clutch pedal. Turns out that the clutch is only used to engage and disengage the pto's. The only real mystery in the TC29D design is why they put the turn brakes on the same side as the hydro pedal. I not only wonder what they were thinking but why they wasted the money to install such an obviously unusable control.






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 02-01-2001, 21:54 Post: 23859
Jeff B



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 Newholland price check

Larry, the manual also calls for using the clutch when shifting the HST range lever or engaging the FWD. You can regain some use of the turning brakes by setting the speed control so you can free up your right foot. You'd use the clutch to disengage the transmission. You also have to short together the wires going to a switch that is actuated by the left brake pedal. This mod probably wouldn't be recommended by NH since the switch provides a second means to turn off the speed control. On the other hand, this switch apparently wasn't installed on some of the older Boomers. - Jeff






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 02-01-2001, 23:31 Post: 23860
VT Steve



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Just bought a less than year old TC35D (300 hrs) w/ 17LA FEL, bush-hog, york rake, logging winch, forks for the front, R-4s, ice chains on rear AND a 10,000# GVW gooseneck trailer --- $19,000. I think it was a pretty good deal! BUT - that doesn't address your question. I still have all of my research figures when I was looking for a TC29D or TC33D.
Dealer just over the state line offered - TC29D, R-4s, 7308, 60" HD bucket, loaded tires, block heater, Delvd (no tax) -- $16,500. R-4s added about $150 - $200 as I remember. That would bring your specs in at about 16,300 which I think is a great price! He also gave me good quotes on lots of implements - if I bought them at same time as tractor. If you are in the Northeast (Oh, I guess you're in MI - duh!), it might be worth checking out to save $800 or so! Hope this helps.






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 02-01-2001, 23:47 Post: 23861
VT Steve



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Oh yea! Re: brake steering & "clutch" and Boomers. One of the reasons that I went ahead and bought a TC35 is that the brakes ARE on the left side and you can brake steer without contortions. Interesting that there is no "clutch" pedal on this model which would seem to contradict the necessity of clutching to engage the PTO or to shift ranges. I have read elsewhere (but my dealer is non-committal) that the clutch on the smaller boomers is nothing more than a mechanical way to engage an electrical switch and that the same action (whatever that may be) could be accomplished by a switch on the dash. As far as (un)hotwiring the cruise control switch from the left brake in order to brake steer, I would be very hesitant to do so. There is already enough "pressure" from safety types folks out there to put some kind of deadman switch or seat switch (as is common on most garden tractors) to shut down the tractor. All we need is some hihj profile case of someone wiring around the brake shutoff and having their rig go out of control. Also, the idea of brake steering with speed control on is kinda scary -- that's the time when I usually want the most control over my steering, brakes AND speed!! I had a thought once that a person could sit side saddle (is that what the swiveling seat is for?) use the hydro pedal with one's left foot and the brakes with right - now that would be a pretty sight to see! Not to safe either, I would guess, being all twisted around like that - especially for a left turn. Any of you folks had experience with that one?






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 02-02-2001, 07:43 Post: 23865
Bird Senter

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VT Steve, you say brake steering with the cruise control on is scary. It does sound that way on the face of it, but remember we're not talking about a car. With the "cruise" set, you can use brake steering (at least on my Kubota), but you can also step on the clutch with the left foot if need be to slow or stop. In other words, you can do the same thing tractor owners with geared tractors have been doing since independent steering brakes were invented.






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 02-02-2001, 09:27 Post: 23869
Murf

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 Newholland price check

The independant brake pedals were histrorically NOT meant as a way of steering but as a way of ASSISTING steering and controlling or making adjustments to direction of travel when using 'ground-engaging' implements such as plows or disc's which can turn the tractor slightly when different soil types are encountered. The ONLY other time the differential braking is used is when the front wheels are unloaded by something like scraping with the FEL, the down-pressure reducing steering, and the braking used to ASSIST steering. it is NOT meant to replace the steering wheel, in fact the process could VERY easily result in a roll over situation. The reaer axle in a tractor is a conventional differential configuration, i.e. either axle or both can be driven, however that is the problem, if you were travelling at 15 mph, and suddenly stopped the left rear wheel by accidentally hitting that ONE brake pedal too hard, the right hand wheel would compensate for the fact that the other one stopped by going twice as fast, now you have one wheel stopped, and one wheel going 30 mph, the result would be an INCREDIDIBLY hard turn, probably resulting a roll over if not checked in time, at the very least it would be scary. I know all about this because I have had this occur several times with new employees, luckily none of them suffered any injuries other than to their pride. All new employees now operate tractors with a nut & bolt connecting the two pedals together. Best of luck.






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 02-02-2001, 16:22 Post: 23883
DavidV



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 Newholland price check

Re:brakes on the same side as hydro pedal

This confusion is one reason I went with the larger Boomer Series (my wife disliked that pedal config also). I believe that most of the Kubota hydros out there are also configured the same way. The larger Boomer series are like the JD units in that place the brakes on the left side (traditionalists can read this as the "wrong" side) where they are much more useable.

DaveV






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > New Holland Tractor Prices Forum

Thread 23842 Filter by Poster:
Bird Senter 2 | DavidV 1 | Jeff B 1 | John Shade 1 | Larry in MI. 2 | Michael 1 | Murf 1 | RickB. 1 | VT Steve 4 |




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