Mitsu MT210D 4x4: Mitsubishi  -- Other Tractor Brands Discussion Forum and Review Mitsu MT210D 4x4: Mitsubishi -- Other Tractor Brands Discussion Forum

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 10-17-2008, 06:01 Post: 157323
cambyy



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 Mitsu MT210D 4x4

Just picked up a Mitsubishi MT210D 4x4 tractor w/backhoe attachment. I'm trying to find a drain plug for the hydraulic fluid with no luck. My brother picked up a manual, but it doesn't show a drain for it. Any help on how to drain the fluid would be appreciated. Thanks






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 10-17-2008, 11:33 Post: 157331
candoarms



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Cambyy,

I'm not familiar with the MT210D, but on most 4x4 tractors there are at least three drain ports.

You should find a drain port on the lower corner of each side of the front axle, at the bottom of each bevel gear housing. These will drain the front axle housing. This is separate from the other hydraulic reservoir. MAKE SURE you fill the front axle separately.

At the rear of the tractor, on the very bottom of the hydraulic reservoir, located directly below the driver's seat, there should be another drain plug.

It may not be located on the very bottom of the housing. It may be located on the side of the housing, but it will be very near the bottom.

If you see one bolt head that appears to be out of line (slightly higher), that's probably the drain plug.

It's difficult to identify some of the drain plugs, because they're often the same size and color as the mounting bolts. Once you find it, it's a good idea to paint it a different color.

4x4 tractors with hydrostatic transmissions will have at least two drain plugs, in addition to the two drain plugs on the front axle.

Since you have a loader and backhoe on your tractor, make sure all of your hydraulic cylinders are fully retracted before changing the hydraulic oil. Otherwise, when you operate the loader and backhoe, you'll push old oil back into your system. You may even find that you'll overfill the hydraulic reservoir when retracting the cylinders.

Joel






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 10-17-2008, 20:56 Post: 157336
cambyy



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 Mitsu MT210D 4x4

Joel,
I took your advice and I think I found two drain plugs under the seat on each side. I have to look again for the front one(s). The tip on retracting the cylinders before filling will also be helpful. Thanks again for the reply
Terry






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 10-18-2008, 08:21 Post: 157339
candoarms



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Cambyy,

A couple of additional tips for you to consider........

The drain plugs on the front axle should be located very near the bottom of the two outboard wheel hub assemblies. Draining the front axle is best achieved by opening the fill cap. The fill cap should be located somewhere along the top of the axle tube, and this fill cap may have a dipstick built into it. Remove the fill cap and loosely cover the port with a rag.

If you don't first open the fill cap, the hydraulic oil won't drain out of the axle. You must open the fill cap to allow air to enter the axle assembly as the old oil drains out......it's the same principle as opening the vent cap on a gas can when filling a tank.

Unlike the drain plugs found on vehicles, tractors generally don't have drain plugs on the very bottom of the pans. This is due to the rough and rocky terrain tractors are designed to operate in. If the drain plug was located on the very bottom of the pan, rocks would quickly damage the bolt head, making it nearly impossible to remove with a wrench. Therefore, drain plugs on tractors are usually located on the side of the housings, very close to the bottom.

With this in mind, you might also want to look for 2 drain plug on your front axle, located very near the bottom, and usually out of the way of any rocks that you might hit. The plugs may be located on the rearward side of the hub assemblies....or bevel gear housings. (4x4 tractors don't have differentials, as are used in automobiles.)

Again, it's best to open a vent when draining the main hydraulic reservoir. You can do this by pulling out the dipstick and loosely covering the port with a rag, preventing any dirt or dust from entering the dipstick port as you perform the fluid change.

When pouring in the fresh fluid, you'll have to go slow. The air in the hydraulic reservoir has to go somewhere as you attempt to pour in the fresh fluid. Generally speaking, the air can only escape from the fill tube. Therefore, you'll find that if you attempt to put in too much fluid at a shot, it will eventually bubble out and make a big mess. Don't mistake this as a sign that the reservoir is over-full. You just need to let the reservoir breath a bit as you attempt to refill it.

Don't be surprised if you find that your tractor's hydraulic system don't operate properly after you're finished with the fluid change. The hydraulics have been completely drained, and this often results in a loss of pump prime.

Most makers suggest that you start the tractor and run it at idle for about 5 minutes before attempting to operate any hydraulics. This should give the pumps time to prime themselves. In any case, DO NOT run the engine RPMs up until the pump(s) primed. (Your tractor may also have a hydraulic power steering pump. If so, this will also be drained during the fluid change.)

If you have any questions, feel free to stop back.

Joel






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 10-20-2008, 20:34 Post: 157407
cambyy



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 Mitsu MT210D 4x4

Joel,
Thanks again for the advice. You've been a wealth of knowledge. I guess the only thing left to do is get to work on it.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Mitsubishi Forum

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