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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-02-20          77436

Can anyone recommend a good quality lightweight gas pole saw for tree trimming? That season is coming and I want to be ready! The idea of standing on a ladder with a chain saw gives me the willies. Yes, I have a safety helmet and glasses.

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Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003
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2004-02-21          77450

Ken, I stand by Stihl. They make the best equipment for this purpose in my opinion. ....

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grinder
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2004-02-21          77452

If you have any amount of work for it,get the heavy duty
model. I have used both and the small lightweight one
is limited. Stihl,Husky, and Echo has made some major improvements. I bought the echo backpack blower and it is
a nice machine. Didn't think I would ever say that about an Echo, I read somewhere that they have made some major
changes. I'll see if I can find it.
The trimmer is a great tool! stay off the ladder!!
Can't play on your tractor with a broken neck. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-02-21          77478

The county guys who keep our road clear of overgrown trees use Stihl. I stopped to talk with them once and they said they thought it was good quality but heavy. Maybe they all feel heavy when you have to use them for hours on end. I'm curious if some of them have some sort of a support harness to help carry the weight, though the county folks didn't use one. ....

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Art White
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2004-02-21          77510

They do come with slings on the Stihl as well as the Husky units. There are different styles as far as the lengths and that does make a difference as to the weights. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-02-21          77513

Anyone ever hear of Tanaka pole saws or power equipment? Their pole saws sell for about 2/3 the price of Stihl. Any good? ....


Link:   Tanaka USA

 
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Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003
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2004-02-21          77526

Here is an alternative. I still think the Stihl is your best bet. They cost a bunch but they last a life time. ....


Link:   click here

 
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kwschumm
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2004-02-21          77529

Thanks Chief, but at $600 I'd probably just buy the Stihl. The Tanaka is ~$300-400 on ebay and in my research they have gotten good reviews but users were hard to find. We'll see, I'll stop at the local Stihl and Husky dealers the first of next week. ....

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Art White
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2004-02-22          77570

Ken, you will love this but I agree with Chief on the choice. I do sell both but warrantee work is about half on the Stihl product line up. ....

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Chief
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2004-02-25          77844

Art, did you realize that Stihl is owned by John Deere??? Just kidding! ;o) Here is yet another alternative that you should not feel too bad about throwing in the trash can if you tear it up. I have never used it and have no idea how it will perform. I can say that I have never been disappointed by a Stihl. They must be part Kubota with that orange paint. ;o) I am not sure if you have TSC out your way Ken but I thought I would throw this out there just in case. ....


Link:   click here

 
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shortmagnum
Join Date: Nov 2003
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2004-02-25          77846

Chief, I would look at the TSC trimmer. Pruning is a one time thing. Once you're done most of us really won't need the trimmer anymore. And pruning is NOT FUN so you probably wouldn't want to do it just for kicks (as compared to operating your CUT) The less expensive version would work out best for me. It only has to last a year or so.
Dave ....

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JDF415
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 34 Kansas
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2004-02-25          77852

Ken,
Have you looked at John Deere handheld products?
JD makes a polesaw model PS2683. It has a M series 25.6 cc engine and 83" boom. You can cut branches up to 12 foot off the ground. The boom comes apart so it can be put in the back of a pickup truck bed.
The nice feature of the Stihl model over the deere is it can be telescoped to make it reach higher, whereas the Deere model is either full length or broke in half for storage. However the Deere model sells for only $359.
I am not posting on this site to try to sell anything. I just want to make you aware of the choice.
JD also makes my favorite, a split-boom line trimmer. You have only one engine (power unit) to service, but the added option of attachments if you need them. Such as a pole saw attachment, edger attachment, blower attachment, cultivator attachment & hedge trimmer.
check them out and see what you think. ....

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itsgottobegreen
Join Date: Oct 2003
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2004-02-25          77853

I run all echo equipment at by business. Except for chain saws. I have a stihl farm boss and a eager beaver bucket saw i got for free. I would defendly look at the echo pole saw. They use to make one that was not electricly conductive. I not shore if they still do. I have have one i can borrow anytime i need from a friend. It very well build, a little heavy but the shoulder strap takes care of that.

Echos are great machines I got a 13 year old and a 5 year old PB400E that still runs and gets used every day. (thank god i got a parts machine) There the last leaf blowers still made with a cast alumiuim frame. They stopped making them for one year and got more complains about it, so they still make them. There srm 2601 string trimmers hold up pretty well. I also have a 24" double side hedge trimmer that runs great. Their mini tillers will throw rocks the size of your fist at you. Man that hurt. ....

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Chief
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2004-02-25          77854

Dave, couldn't agree more with that. In my case although I don't have a pole pruner, I have the annual event of clearing the driveway and all of my access paths on my property. Still for $179, I can by about 4 of these compared to 1 Stihl. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2004-02-25          77855

If there are many branchs to be removed, or if you need to top a lot of trees in the plantation then hydraulic is the way to go.

With two people and that tractor you'll be AMAZED at how fast it goes and how little effort it is.

Best of luck. ....

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shortmagnum
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2004-02-25          77861

I suppose there are many situations in which pruning is NOT a one time thing such as in an apple orchard. In my case the branches never come back after pruning pine and spruce. In another 50 years or so of growth after pruning, the wood added after pruning is totally clear and free from knots. So this is more like plantation pruning. I won't benefit directly from it but my kids will (or the #*&%# US Park Service but that's another story).

....

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kwschumm
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2004-02-25          77863

No TSC out this way. Regarding the Deere unit, somebody besides Deere probably makes it - any ideas who?

Murf, what do you mean Hydraulic? You mean stick somebody in the bucket with a chainsaw? I don't think so....

My needs will be ongoing - we have 15 acres to prune and will replant after harvest, and you know those trees. They never stop growing :) ....

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Murf
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2004-02-25          77866

No Ken, not that kind of hydraulic.

It is basically a long pole with a heavy steel hook at the end, inside the pole is a small hydraulic cylinder, the cylinder causes a sharp knife blade to swivel out and past the hook. Anything snagged in the hook gets cut off. It is just like the pole pruners that are normally operated by pulling a rope, except the action is hydraulic.

They weigh very little and can easily be operated for many hours with the use of a body harness (like those used for carrying a flag while marching) without too much fatigue. They are certainly a LOT lighter than anything with a gas engine, they are also almost silent in use.

In the orchards they are operated by people standing on a self-propelled manlift that travells up & down the rows. In your case the operator would merely walk along behind the tractor or some other power source. A simple platform could be made to fit in a small trailer if you were working at a constant height, the trailer could then be pulled by the tractor. This is how we trim back the tree branches along many miles of private road we maintain in cottage country.

Best of luck. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-02-25          77868

Interesting Murf. Is that something you made or is it an off-the-shelf saw? I'd be interested in brands, price, etc. Quiet and light are GOOD. We only have to prune a few thousand trees :( ....

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JDF415
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 34 Kansas
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2004-02-25          77872

The deere hand held units are built by deere. They use Mitshubishi engines. These are the same engines JD has used since they quit buying the hand held products from Echo back in 1994 or 1995.
JD purchased both Homelite and GreenMachine and most of our handheld products were based off the GreenMachine commercial duty line. Homelite was sold a couple years ago. Alot of people thought JD products are nothing more than homelite painted green, which was & is not true. JD did have a hand held blower and 2 chainsaws that were homelite models, but both of those are now gone. The HomeDepot stores also sold a JD branded trimmer that was a homelite machine painted green.
To give you an idea of home much difference there is between the two... Homelite engines were designed to run 100 hours. May not sound like much, but for a home owner who uses his trimmer 15 min per week trimming around the house, that equals 1 hour per month X 10 month = 10 hours per year = avg homeowner expected life for the trimmer 10 years. No too bad for a $99 trimmer. Now consider the Mitsubishi engine, which is designed to run for 1200 hours. Big difference in quality. These trimmers start around $200 (twice as much) but should last 10 to 12 times longer. It is a commercial grade product.

The JD Chainsaws are built in Italy by EMAC ?? Same company that marketed the Olympik brand saws in North America. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-02-25          77876

Thanks for the info JDF415. You seem to be quite the Deere historian. Do you work for them or something?

I'll certainly check out the Deere pole saw before plunking my money down on anything. ....

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Murf
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2004-02-25          77878

It is both Ken, you can buy them off the shelf, but they are MUCH cheaper to build, and I have done so. They are expensive because the people who make them, for liability reasons, have to maker them dielectric so that when some idiot touches an electric line they don't get sued into oblivion by his widow.

If you only have to take the leaders off the tops there is an easier and cheaper way to do it. If you need to prune lower limbs the power pruner is the only real option.

Best of luck. ....

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JDF415
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2004-02-25          77883

I work for a JD Dealer. I have worked for John Deere Company or a John Deere dealer for 15 years. That's where the JD415 came from. My wife and I lived in the Ukraine (1996-1997) while working for JD. JD had sold 1050 of the 9600 model combines and we went over to help set up their parts and service support for these machines.

The compact utilty tractors, lawn & garden tractors, hand held stuff is what I sell now. And the fact is I just love my job. I feel fortunate to get paid to do what I love doing.

Entering info on this tractor web site isn't something I do because I am tring to sell anything. I just like to help people by sharing what information I have. I wouldn't try to stop someone from buying Kubota or Sthil. Even though they are my competition. They do make some good quality equipment as well. I just try to point out some differences and somthings to think about that might not be considered otherwise.
....

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kwschumm
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2004-02-25          77884

It's great to have a knowledgeable JD dealer on board. I think you've been very even-handed and unbiased in your postings which is very welcome here. ....

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Chief
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2004-02-25          77885

Ken, I just got back from my local Stihl dealer. The extendable (recommend this model) is $559. If you wait, Stihl is phasing out the 2 strokes models of these pruners and fielding their 4 stroke version at about the same price. You still use 2 stroke fuel mix so it is a wash unless you prefer one over the other. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-02-25          77893

Thanks Chief. I plan on going out this afternoon to both Stihl, Husky, and my JD dealer. Good thing they're all close to each other. Not sure if the Stihl is worth $200 more than the JD. itsgottobepaint said something about echo, too, and their prices for commercial saws seem about the same as the JD unit. I'm thinking that the lightest saw will be the best for me since I'm (not) looking forward to hours and hours of using it, even if that means a saw that won't last as long. ....

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shortmagnum
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2004-02-25          77898

Murf, we used to have a manual version of your hydraulic pruner. A long rod attached to the handle would pull the cutter through the branch. I remember noticing that it took surprisingly little force to cut a branch. The cutter had two fixed outside hooked parts with one moving inner cutter.

If you made one would you have to use hardened steel or could you get by with softer plate? Would you mount a hydraulic ram near the cutter or at the bottom an again use a long rod to the cutter? It seems that you would want the weight of the hydraulics to be as low as possible.
Dave ....

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shortmagnum
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2004-02-25          77899

I should add that the hooked part of the cutter allows you to rest the entire weight of the device on the branch for a few seconds which greatly reduces the stress of holding it in position. Especially after hours of use. ....

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Murf
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2004-02-25          77902

You're on the right track Ken. What I was talking about is almost exactly what you're describing.

The one I made had to be ultra light because it had to be 20' long, every ounce out that far is a big deal. I acheived the light weight needed by running a combination of hydaulic and pneumatic. The hydraulics pushed against an air cylinder which in turn fed air to a slave cylinder at the business end of the pruner. This also made it dielectric since it was not steel air line and the pole was fiberglass.

Regular steel for the non-cutting parts is fine, but it won't hold an edge for long. I used a standard replacement cutter from a mechanically operated model.

I also did a full-on version for a Christmas tree farmer near here. It was just the cutting head from an old sickle bar style hay mower. I just mounted it on the side of a quick-tach plate for the FEL of their tractor, it was powered it with a hydraulic motor, although you could use a small gas engine, and it could tilt by means of a small tie-rod cylinder. The operator could adjust height of 'cut' by raising or lowering the FEL and driving up & down the rows topping the trees as he went.

Best of luck. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-02-25          77903

Thanks for the info Murf, but it was shortmagnum who made that suggestion. Is shortmagnum also a Ken? Not sure about that... Anyway, a hydraulic manual cutter seems to be a good idea but if I can't buy one somewhere I'll just have to go the gas saw route. ....

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Murf
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2004-02-25          77907

Ooops, CRS setting in I guess.

It should be very simple to convert a standard one to operate from air or hydraulic power.

Best of luck. ....

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Jim on Timberridge
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2004-02-25          77908

I have an echo and a stihl. The echo is older, and was a model called Aggressor2400, featuring a Sawzall type head/blade. It has a fixed length shaft, and worked really well. I liked the way the engine ran. Unfortunately, I wrecked the the cutting head by tackling limbs that were too big, jammed the power head, and caused it to strip the internal guides. Echo replaced this model with one that was the same engine, shaft, but with a 10" chain saw head.
I'm planning to buy the head and get the unit back in service.
I also use the Stihl, which has a telescoping shaft and 12" chain saw head. Yes it's heavy, but does everything I ask it to. Maybe a little underpowered.
The Stihl is longer than the Echo, maybe 15' fully extended, and is a handful to manuvuer in the woods. It has a shoulder strap to carry some of the weight.
Two final comments.
This winter I finished a cut on a large branch that was as high as I could stretch. The branch caught the sawhead and pulled it down as it fell. I couldn't stop the momentum of the extended saw, and it hit the ground hard. Snapped the sawhead's body (cast metal?) right in half. I thought I was out a few hundred bucks for a replacement. But I tried using some ColdWeld with some fiberglass cloth wrapped around the break. It's holding fine.
Second, no matter how long the saw, i always find branches to cut on my oak tree farm that are beyond my reach. Have stood on the back of my ATV, in my CUT bucket, on a ladder, whatever to get to that branch. It's some natural law that makes one do these things.
jim ....

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Abbeywoods
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2004-02-25          77911

I favor Stihl for my chainsaws, backpack blowers, and pole saws. But in professional use, hours mount up quickly and even the best can die before their expected time. I pay the extra money for Stihl not so much for the expected life cycle, but because Stihl and the dealer provide fantastic service. Parts are plentiful, the cost of repair is reasonable, and they perform as advertised. If I break one, and I do, I usually get it back the next day. I'm not saying Echo is a bad brand, or any other make for that matter, just that my experience with Stihl has been so good I stay with them. ....

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jklmnugent
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2004-02-26          77952

Concur on Stihl dealer. Have a great one in my area too. Honest advice, walk right up to the shop, ask a question, get it done now. Parts at the ready and get-it-back service. As to Stihl products they are well engineered with power curve beginning at low rpms. Really helps with reduce the noise during protracted periods of use. More often a blip of the throttle will do. Power at low rpm means less vibration as well. And they always, always start. Best feature for non professional users who may put equipment down for a week or two. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-02-26          78004

Stopped at the Stihl dealer. These guys sell only for list price. The new telescoping pole pruner with the 4-Mix engine is $600. They do have a fixed boom one for $429 but that would be too short for me in some circumstances.

Went to the Deere dealer next. They sell Echo and Husky power pruners and Stihl string trimmers but claim that Stihl won't let them sell their power-pruners due to another retailer down the road that sells them. Sounds screwy to me (Stihl I mean). Anyway, the boom on the husky was way to weak for my tastes. It shook like a leaf when extended. The telescoping echo looked to be pretty nice but it was the same price as the Stihl at $600. They didn't sell JD power pruners and the guy said they used to and everyone bought the Echo or Husky while the Deere ones just gathered dust.

Not sure yet which way I'll go. I'd like to at least look at a Tanaka but the nearest dealer is an hour away. ....

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Murf
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2004-02-27          78075

Ken, if there is a Stanley commercial tool distributor near you have a look at the model CR22 hydraulic circular saw by Stanley. A lot of Utility companies are switching over to this model instead of the Limb Lopper LS2 because it is easier to use.

Also have a look at the Fairmnont line of pruners and saws, the link is shown below.

Best of luck. ....


Link:   Fairmont Hydraulic Pruners.

 
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kwschumm
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2004-02-27          78081

Thanks Murf! The fairmont pruner looks like it would be a lot easier to operate and would do 60% of what I need. I would still need something longer for the higher stuff so maybe I need two different tools. More tools is good! A google search and a search on Stanleys web site turned up zero hits on the Stanley saw. Have a link? ....

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Murf
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2004-02-27          78102

Ken, no problem, of course you will want to sit down, preferably on your wallet before you ask the price on any of this stuff.

Pruners or saws run between $1,500 and $2,500 depending on size, etc.

The Stanley site is linked to below. They're not even too far away, they're in Milwaukie Oregon.

Best of luck. ....


Link:   Stanley Hydraulic Tools.

 
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kwschumm
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2004-02-27          78103

At that price it's no wonder municipalities are going broke :) ....

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Murf
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2004-02-27          78104

Like I said previously, the best way I have found so far for topping trees in a plantation is still with a sickle-bar mower on the FEL.

This is how we cut the brush back on the cottage roads we maintain. It is VERY fast compared to anything else.

Best of luck. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-02-27          78105

Murf, I'm not sure we're talking about the same kind of pruning. I don't want to top them, I just need to prune the side branches up 12 feet or so. These trees are 30-35 feet tall now and I expect them to reach upwards of 100 feet before logging them 15 years down the road. ....

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Chief
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2004-02-27          78107

So have you got some choices narrowed down yet Ken? Best to take your time a do the research. Wish I could find a deal for you like you did for me on the pressure washer! ;o) ....

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Abbeywoods
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 110 New England
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2004-02-27          78114

Hi Ken, well 15 acres is a lot of trees! I know you are a self-reliant and intelligent man from your posts, but have you thought of seeking an estimate from an arborist with a bucket truck? I know the most bang for your buck is to own the saw, but then your labor isn't chopped liver either. Could it be possible someone in your area could cut you a deal? Is there a university in your area that teaches arborists, or a county ag extension with student workers, some of these places will put students in the field for experience, for next to nothing. It may be worth a try, but I'm sure you'd rather have the saw. ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
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2004-02-27          78115

No decision yet. In the next week I'll drive down and look at the Tanaka saw, but right now I'm leaning towards popping for the stihl.

Abbeywoods, you bring up some good points. I take a lot of pride in doing these things myself, but there are a LOT of trees and a big hump to get over. I'd need the saw anyway for ongoing maintenance. As well, when the trees get to be somewhere in the 50-75 foot range I'll have to hire the work out because there is NO WAY I want to try climbing those suckers :) Thanks for the ideas. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2004-02-27          78116

Ken, i got you now, I misunderstood the operation.

Around here the most money, maybe there too, is to cut them every five years, just before Christmas... ;->

Best of luck. ....

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Murf
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2004-02-27          78117

BTW, a 30-35 conifer with a nice shape and good foliage sells for $1,000 (you dig) - $5,000 (delivered & planted) around here. At that price you don't cut them down unless they're ugly.

Best of luck. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-02-27          78120

There isn't a huge demand for 35 foot Christmas trees. I have one neighbor who sells 'em and he buys one or two 30-35 foot Noble firs from me each year for about $100 each. Gotta get rid of the Nobles since they aren't useful for anything but pulp and Christmas trees.

Good tip about the per-tree sale. I'll have to see what the landscapers would pay but I'll bet it's not much in these parts. They grow like weeds - I have to pull 'em out of my driveway every year :) ....

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kwschumm
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2004-02-27          78134

Some ebayers are insane. There is a NIB Stihl HT75 pole saw listed with a current bid of $570 dollars plus shipping and a few days to go yet on the auction. I think the HT75 is discontinued, and it's replacement is the HT101 which lists for $600. What am I missing? Is the HT75 a better saw than the new HT101? ....

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Abbeywoods
Join Date: Jan 2004
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2004-02-28          78155

Murf, you Canadians have some bargains. Down here on the "Gold Coast" of New England a balled specimen conifer (25ft up) starts at $1500 and typical planting costs start at $500. The nurseries I buy from use the wire basket ball method and Vermeer's largest tree spade. So I think when Ken is ready he may want to negotiate with a few of the nurseries down this way. There is good money to be had provided the logistics and harvesting don't get in the way. ....

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Chief
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2004-02-28          78223

Ken, this is about as cheap as cheap can get but you will need a generator and extension cord.

"Mr. Thrifty" ;o) ....


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kwschumm
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2004-02-28          78226

Thanks, Chief. I've seen these and some folks even say they work ok, but I figure I'd wear one out after every few dozen trees. I researched the tanakas more and they're out since they don't have a telescoping version. So it's looking like the Stihl wins. I didn't want to spend that much, but it will only hurt once. ....

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shortmagnum
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2004-02-29          78248

Ken, I'm still a little confused. Are you trying to trim the outside of the branches to shape the tree or are you just cutting the lower branches off to create better lumber?
....

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kwschumm
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2004-02-29          78249

I need to limb the bottoms to have the trees grow taller, straighter, and faster for better timber. Plus it will improve air circulation and cut down on fungal diseases like needle cast. For now getting 12 feet up is fine. ....

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Billy
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2004-02-29          78253

Ken, you could always do it like Weyerhaeuser does their pine plantation here. They have a crew come in, each guy has a pole saw and they get to work. These pole saws are operated by muscle power only. The first time I saw a crew at work, I thought "man, these guys earn their money".

Not a job I'd want, for sure. ....

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kwschumm
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2004-02-29          78254

Billy, I'm not sure how much a crew like that costs but I'm sure it's more than $600! I won't do it all by myself as I have a cousin who is willing to help. Mostly I plan on doing a half-dozen trees each evening and just whittle away at it. I need the exercise anyway. ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2004-03-01          78319

Sounds like a good thing to do. I think you've hit most of the reasons for limbing them up.

Fire control is another reason not mentioned. Brush fires jump to the crowns quicker and there's nothing worse then trying to fight a wildfire in a poorly managed plantation I hear. But for our township pumper we would have had a plantation fire last summer.

I'm curious what species of pines they are. I know the red and white pines we have around here tend to limb themselves up when they start getting to be that height. However it also sounds like the growth rate there is about double of it here so your 35' trees are probably much younger then a 35' pine around here. ....

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Chief
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2004-03-01          78321

Ken, I have one of these electric Remingtion chainsaws. They are nothing to brag about but they will amaze you at the power and torque they generate with the electric motor. They actually cut as good or better than the same size gas chain saw. The big draw back is the need for electric power. I have cut several truck loads of wood with mine and it still runs great. Even have the original chain on it.

I was actually holding back when I said the last saw was the cheapest........ this one is $20 cheaper but is a reman. ;o) That is as el cheapo as I can find! ;o) ....


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Chief
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2004-03-01          78323

Heck! The more I think about it; you would have to wear out or tear up 8 of these saws to equal the price of the Stihl. For $79 if I needed one of these; I think I would give one a try. How bad can it be for $79? ....

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kwschumm
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2004-03-01          78334

Tom, yes I keep forgetting about the fire control benefits. We maintain a big fire break between the house and woods but fire is another good reason to limb. Our trees are mostly douglas firs and they grow 3-5 feet a year.

Chief, you're certainly right on the price of the Remington saw but when the cost of a portable generator is included the savings disappear. ....

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Chief
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2004-03-01          78336

I thought you already had a portable genny Ken. If not, I can see you point there. ....

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Murf
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2004-03-01          78344

Chief, your logic is good about the cost difference but being a business owner I have to look at things froma very different point of view, one that doesn't exist or matter to most of us here.

I'm sure my friend from New England, the 'other' Ted, will bear me out on this point. It is the END cost that counts, not so much how you get there.

Case in point, a 'regular' tow behind chipper is about $15k. and requires a couple of labourers to 'feed' it, etc. on the other hand, if cleanup time affects the overall schedule then it becomes VERY cost effective to go to a MUCH larger machine, and possibly one that does other things too, like stumps. In my case (see pic. # 4) I can chew through wood faster than 4 or 5 chippers could come close to, stumps included. The end cost is about half what a tow behind chipper would be, and I don't have stumps to deal with. The time saved is a major factor too.

In the case of a homeowner it is different, but still important. As Ken said the plan is to do 6 trees a night. What if he could do 24 trees a night? Then he would be done, and free to do other things, in one quarter the time.

Best of luck.

....

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Abbeywoods
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2004-03-01          78355

Amen, Murf. After all is said and done, the bottom line better not be in the red. Some comments regarding the tub grinder, there is a local who clears land and harvests trees for lumber (around here it is mostly poplar or tulip)and charges $3000. per acre of heavily wooded land. He uses the Vermeer tub grinder, a feller/buncher, an excavator w/thumb, a forwarder, a skidder, a TreeLand whole tree chipper, and two lumber trucks, plus assorted related equipment. As a businessman I call that a "smoking deal," one of my customers called it "highway robbery!" Go figure. ....

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Murf
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2004-03-01          78360

In the process of building out a new golf course we often have to clear MANY acres of trees.

Since the owners of the development cant make any money until people are playing on the course time is critical. We often have situations where the land has been cut by lumber companies to extract the prime timber, then we have to deal with everything else. Anything saleable as firewood is shipped off-site, everything else goes in the compost pile.

We also do land clearing, storm cleanup, and line clearing for the Electric companies to keep the equipment busy as much as possible. I would LOVE to be able to get paid $3,000 an acre, we only average after selling the wood , but also have to deal with the stumps for that.

I think the average person would be pretty hard-pressed to do it themselves for anything less than that.

Best of luck. ....

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