Breakin period for new Kubota 
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 05-23-1999, 00:00 Post: 4197
Alan



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 Breakin period for new Kubota

After reading lots of good advice on this forum I purchased a B2710 and took delivery on Friday. I have lots of mowing to do and got started on it Friday night with the finish mower. I mowed about 7 hours with the bush hog today (Saturday). I heard some of you saying to run only 75% of rated RPMs for 10 hours for breakin. I asked my dealer and he said "just run it - it will be fine".In order to mow you have to get 540 RPMs out of the PTO, and to do that you have to run it about 2600 RPMs. The tach goes to 3000 but I don't know what the "rated" RPMS are. Well I ran the mower at the proper RPMs, as I don't know what you can do with a tractor at only 75% throttle. Drive in circles for 10 hours? Hopefully I haven't caused any damage. I have been warming up for 5 minutes before applying a load tho.What are your dealers telling you? I think my manual just says not to use high RPMS with no load and not to idle for long periods during breakin (except for 5 minute warmup?)I also note that it is very difficult to get the shift lever to engage the PTO or to put the tractor in gear. Will this get easier when it breaks in?






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 05-23-1999, 00:00 Post: 4198
tracy



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 Breakin period for new Kubota

I have the same questions, I just bought a B7300 on Friday, and also on the warm up should the hydro be in N or should it be low or high range, I also want to do the best for my tractor,thanks Tracy






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 05-23-1999, 00:00 Post: 4211
Pete Johnson



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 Breakin period for new Kubota

Seems Friday was the day to deliver KubotasI got my B1700, same question.Same response from the dealer, no break-in required but take it easy at first.I took it to mean nothing that bogs down the engine, ie trying to mow too fast through tall grassIts been pouring rain since, haven't been able to use it :-{Pete






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 05-23-1999, 00:00 Post: 4219
MChalkley



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 Breakin period for new Kubota

You'll be hard pressed to go wrong following the intructions in the manual. They say not to run it at full speed for the first 50 hours, or at least that's what they say on the L series. Full speed means wide open, all she'll do. You can generally run them at 'rated' speed, which is the speed the listed hp rating is given for in the manual. Note that this speed is generally a few hundred or so rpm lower than wide open, and often a few hundred rpm higher than the '540 PTO rpm' speed. So running it at '540 PTO rpm' speed is quite safe. The most important thing is letting it warm up 5 minutes or so (in the summer, longer in winter) before setting to work. Where the HST range selector is isn't important. Any time the clutch is out, the HST pump is running, so it's circulating the oil and warming up all the parts. Hope this helps.






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 05-24-1999, 00:00 Post: 4240
Mike



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 Breakin period for new Kubota

Do what your manuel says, good advise. Main thing is to avoid long idling periods and lugging on a diesel. Also VERY important to drain & replace all fluids and filters at first 50 hrs. to get rid of break-in shavings.






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 05-24-1999, 00:00 Post: 4250
larry murray



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 Breakin period for new Kubota

Folks:The owner manual says 50 hours for almost all models. Best thing to do is to let them warm up and don't horse 'em at first. 36 hours so far on my b1700larry m






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 05-25-1999, 00:00 Post: 4281
MichaelSnyder

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 Breakin period for new Kubota

Alan,I cannot comment on the break-in of your Kub. But I can tell you this: Most enginemanufactures (tractor/truck/car) warn against initially using an (Engine) hard because of pre-mature Warping.Maybe a very poor example, but think of you engine as a balloon. The first timeyou try to fill it, it has quite a bit of resistance. The 2,3,4,5 time,expansionbecomes easier and more defined. Working a new engine hard/fast accomplishes a similar effect. Relative to % of metal expansion and contraction. By initially heating/cooling your engine evenly/progressively, you allowthe NEW gears/crank/rings/Ect... to "mold" into shape. For example:IF you could very precisely measure the diameter of your cylinder walls/sleeves, you would find that they are probably not 100% circular. That varience could not be seen with the nakedeye, but precise tools would show the effects Heating/Cooling has on your engine, or anything for that matter.Don't believe it,, Just over heat your engine,and see how much your engine block can change shape!!Maybe not a great explaination, but hopefully one that helps. "Common Sense alone will take you a long way in life"






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Kubota Review Forum

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