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 07-27-2002, 13:18 Post: 40733
jwy
2002-07-27 13:18:33
Post: 40733
 telescoping lower links

I've had an L3010 for a few months and really like it. I use a SE5 Rhino mower and a 5' box blade. It is a real "rastlin match" to hook up the brush hog. Unless I extend the lower link telescopes, they won't spread far enuf to get past the pins on the implements. The box blade isn't too bad since I can move it around by hand and back, but the brush hog is much heavier and more cumbersome. I use a short piece of 2x4 to shift the mower left and right. I get it hooked up ok, but is there a trick to get the telescopes pushed back into position. I usually bounce the brush hog up and down and it finally falls into place. Any problem mowing with the links stretched out? My previous L3010 did not have telescoping lower links.
FYI-I recently had a problem with my 3010 starting. I had been mowing. Stopped to blow the grass and dust off the mower b'4 loading onto my trailer and it would not start. I checked and cleaned battery cables and checked starter hookup etc. I called the dealer to have them come out and pick it up (still in warranty). He asked me to make sure the PTO was disengaged. It appeared it was, but I bumped it on and off again and guess what...the tractor started. I am more careful now when disengaging the PTO.






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 07-27-2002, 17:14 Post: 40737
dsg

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 telescoping lower links

After hooking up the telescopic links and before hooking up the third point hitch, back up until the telescopic links click into place then hook up the third hitch. This is what I do with my Tele. links. Hope this makes sense.

David






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 07-28-2002, 06:26 Post: 40751
TomG

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 telescoping lower links


If I've got the idea, it's that the mower lower link mounts really are too wide for the tractor. Extending the links spreads the arms wider and allows easier mounting of the mower. The problem can be solved on some implements by reversing the lower pins so they face inward. I havenít heard anything thatís wrong with the practice.

For the type sliding links I've heard of on compacts, I think that normally a tractor is just backed up to push the links into their locked position. Some farm tractors have hydraulic links, which would be another story. Probably spreading the arms in the extended position places a bind on the link arms and they won't slide freely.

I haven't used these links, but I doubt they're designed for operation in extended positions. Some may slide back and forth except in the locked position. They may also not be as strong when extended. It also would place the weight further back from the tractor, which would increase load on the 3ph.

I almost have the same problem with my forklift and it almost certainly out-weighs the mower. I keep implements on blocks and have a tempered 5' 1 1/4" steel pry-bar. Just sink it into the ground and most anything can be levered around.

A trick I heard about here saves me some levering with the pry-bar. I connect one lower link and then curl the loader down and sink the blade into the ground. Using the loader curl moves the tractor a few inches forward or back. Moving the tractor a few inches with one link connected tends to square the implement and line up the other link holes. If I block implements correctly to start with, then I don't have to lever and block up the backs to make the top-link reach.






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 08-30-2002, 22:28 Post: 41848
burly
2002-08-30 00:00:00
Post: 41848
 telescoping lower links

I have a L3710 GST and had problems hooking up to 3pt impl.The lower links would'nt seem to open far enough with the pins pulled on the stablizers. So I went one step further and where the stablizers attach to the lower links [or arms]. I pulled the cotter pin out and put a cotter key in the pin that holds the two to gether. This way you can pull the cotter keys, pull the pins and drop the stablizers. Then the lower links will spread all the way to the tires.
I also have the teloscopic links and like them alot. I would'nt put wieght on them extended, just hook up and back up and they should click in.
I love my KUBOTA. I've had it for 3 months and have 185h on it. The only problem was a leak around the trans. sight glass around 150h. It was fixed under warrenty. I really hated to turn my back on DEERE, but I think lately they have been going down hill with there smaller line of tractors and equipment. Sorry to all the JD fans, I really have mixed feelings. I hope the lower link thing helps you and others.






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 08-31-2002, 07:24 Post: 41858
Art White



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 telescoping lower links

I think I have a solution to your problem with the hitch. Hitches for years have been different widths wheather they are cat1 or 2 or 3 or 4, and often to hook to different tractors easily we move the pins so they face the inside instead of the outside. This narrows them up so they go on easily and are less aggrivation. There is not always a right and wrong. Do not raise the mower and shake it to get the arms to retract to the lock position as you are putting a lot of stress on the hitch that doesn't need to be there. Just bact slowly up to a solid object and they should slid in. By having the pins to the inside of the frame you will find they will be at less of an angle and should slid in easier.






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 08-31-2002, 08:53 Post: 41861
MRETHICS
2002-08-31 00:00:00
Post: 41861
 telescoping lower links

The lower draft links should not be left in the "out" position doing any kind of field work. Turning the draft links to adjust the overall width is an accepted practice and shouldn't cause any problems.

The real culprit here are the equipment mfgrs. The "ASAE" (American Society of Agricultural Engineers) Set Standards for 3pth specs. many years ago. This is what determins what is Cat0, Cat1, Cat2, etc.

John Deere was the pioneering company that introduced the concept. This all happened back when the 4010's were being developed in the late 1950's, and due to the ASAE, these standards became widely accepted amoungst the major brands.

However, there are still alot of short line mfgrs. who disregard the standards, and use thier own specs, thus making hooking and unhooking implements a little tougher,and in some cases, alot tougher.

This is especially true in the cat0 and cat1 implement industry. John Deere has attacked this problem again, and now are makeing all their cat1 implements I-match compatable. Hopefully, the shortlines will wake up and follow suit.

John Deere and Ford New Holland's tractors are mfgd. with hitches that fall into proper catagories. Kubota does on most models, but not all of them. Espeacially in thier sub-compacts.

A Quick Hitch attachment can save alot of time hooking and unhooking, but if your implement is not made with standard hitch dimensions, the quick hitch is worthless.






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 09-01-2002, 07:44 Post: 41888
Art White



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 telescoping lower links

Just a short note as to the Kubota hitches. On the BX that hitch we call a 1N or narrow hitch utilizing catO width with Cat1 pins, much like the 2N class which is a Cat1 width with cat2 pins. The only other model is there specialty tractor the 8200N model which is a tractor designed for narrow applications with need for high horsepower. This tractor uses cat2 pins on cat1 width due to the fact the tractor is only 48" wide and has 82 horsepower.






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 09-19-2002, 12:29 Post: 42643
buck



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 telescoping lower links

I had the same problem on my L3710DT. The arms just wouldn't open wide enough for my Rhino SE6 or Pyramid box. The dealer's mechanic come out and removed the arms from the sleeve, cut about two inches off the back of , then reinserted. With pins removed they now swing all the way to the tires at any height. These arms were not telescoping.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Kubota Review Forum

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