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 05-21-2008, 13:40 Post: 153844
Mark99



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 Kubota size match to work

I have a NH TC45D. It is great for heavy work. However, I am not satisfied with performance on the 6 acre lawn when fertilizing (rotary 3-pt) and spraying (55-gal 12ft boom, 3-pt). The terrain is heavy rolling hills, and I am constantly watching for instability points (high center of gravity). Worse yet, the heavy weight (3,420lbs +impliment and material) and 4WD are VERY rough on the grass. I am considering B7510 as more-or-less dedicated unit for spray/fertilizer and other light tasks. After test drive at dealer, I'm not sure 21HP is adequate for running 450lbs liquid (plus 200lb impliment) over heavy hills. I noticed the 7510 could not pull moderate inclines in tranny range H when "empty". I really liked the B7510, but don't want to be disappointed in lawn performance. Anyone with similar experience or opinions? If 7510 in inadequate, what is your suggestion?
Thanks in advance for your help






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 05-21-2008, 14:37 Post: 153845
Murf

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 Kubota size match to work

Well, first off, the 'High' range is an issue for slow hard work, it should be in middle range if it has one, or low if only a 2 speed setup. High range is mostly a travel position, it's not intended as a 'working' range.

Lugging a HST-equipped unit is really bad for it.

IMHO you could do everything you need to do with something a bunch less cumbersome than a B-series tractor. In fact an RTV or similar would probably be all you need.

Best of luck.






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 05-21-2008, 17:10 Post: 153849
DennisCTB

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 Kubota size match to work

I have had a B7610(2 range hi lo) for 4 years and have rented the the B21 TLB (3 range lo med hi). Like Murf said on the B21 you only use hi range for transport and med for almost everything else.

On the B7610 the Hi range is really more like the Mid range on the B21 TLB. I use Hi range for mowing and snow blowing. I even use high range for loader work into loose piles of dirt, mulch and stone dust. Once in a while I use lo range. I would think that you may have had the the RPMs too low for what you were doing when you test drove it. I have run my B7610 in hi with a full load of stone dust in the the bucket and a heavy grader blade on the back in high gear up a step grade with no problem, but I was running the throttle up around 2500 rpm.






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 05-21-2008, 19:10 Post: 153851
Mark99



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 Kubota size match to work

Thanks guys for the input. I was at about 1500 rpm when I noted the lugging. I guess on the smaller tractors you need to run them around 2000-2500rpm. What about the overall power to do the work mentioned on hilly terrain - 10-15% grades with a few 30% inclines?
Thanks,
Mark






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 05-21-2008, 22:04 Post: 153856
candoarms



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 Kubota size match to work

Mark99,

I believe your biggest issue is not the tractor, but rather the sprayer you're using.

Unless you have a good reason for using a boom sprayer, you might be better off using a boomless sprayer on rough and hilly terrain. Boomless sprayers work very well on rough and hilly terrain. (See Northern Tool Item #282727)

Depending upon the amount of acreage you're mowing, I believe you might be better off getting yourself a dedicated mowing machine for that job. Keep your tractor for the heavy work.

Just thinking out loud here........

Joel






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 05-22-2008, 07:52 Post: 153863
kthompson



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 Kubota size match to work

Mark99, reference your comment on the rpms to smaller tractor; a few years ago had a neighbor tell how he would never run above 1500 RPMs. Puzzled me until I found out his Massey red lined not much above that. My brother has a Massey which at about 1500 engine RPM's give you 540 PTO RPMs. While my Kubota about the same size (around 70 HP) I think is over 2,000 rpm. At same time I grew up with auto engines that for highway speed cruising would 500 to a 1,000 rpm higher than today's engines. RPM's sure do vary from mfg, size of engine and such.

I have a B2710 Kubota with 3 range HST trans, run on pave road often about 1/2 mile. There is a vast difference in the road speed at 2,000 RPMs and 2,500. Running with full forward pedal at 2,000 RPMs it will jump if you increase the engine to 2,500 rpms.

As to the stability of your current tractor, can you widen your wheel base? If not on the front axle even the rear axle change may give you the stability you desire. If you are keeping your lift arm stablizers loose, tighten them up as much as you can and not bind the lift arms will help prevent the movement of the load from side to side. The side to side sway of a heavy load on the 3 pt can affect a small tractor a lot when on a slope. There are also pull behind implements for each one you list that would move some load to another set of wheel. For stability with load, do you have ballast in the rear tires, how about front end weights? That will help lower the center of gravity also. Realize may hurt you on your lawn. Of course speed affects stability and be sure of the air prssure in your tires! Low pressure is not as stable as proper air pressure and depending on all factors you may need to push that to keep the side ways stiff.

As to being very rough on the grass, slow wide turns and of course not using 4 wheel dirve on grass shold help if not solve that problem.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Kubota Review Forum

Thread 153844 Filter by Poster:
candoarms 1 | DennisCTB 1 | kthompson 1 | Mark99 2 | Murf 1 |




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