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 05-27-2007, 10:34 Post: 142504
Kendews



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The main center hydraulic cylindar on the loader bucket of my BX23 just started leaking. Fluid seems to be dribling from around the piston. Is there some sort of seal that can be replaced inside? Or should I just buy a new cylindar, which looks fairly simple to replace?






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 05-27-2007, 18:05 Post: 142512
hardwood

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 leaking Hydraulics

Ken; The part you call the piston, I'm taking you to mean the chrome plated shaft that moves in and out of the cylinder to dump the bucket, correct? You have me wondering a bit as to why it is leaking. Has anything happened to the shaft to cause a rough spot that would abrade the seal as the shaft moves in and out, or even a bent shaft from striking something? Normal wear on hydraulic cylinders that aren't damaged can get you to be a pretty old man before any maintinence is needed. Check closely to see if perhaps a piece old wire, a small piece of gravel or something has gotten in the seal perhaps while pileing brush, clearing an old fenceline or whatever. The seal is a low dollar item, and the changing of it is pretty strait forward, but be ready to get real greasy. A hydraulic shop can change it for you pretty fast if they have time. Frank.






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 05-27-2007, 20:47 Post: 142519
earthwrks

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What you likely need is a what's called a "gland seal" or two. That's where the pison rod slides in/out of the cylinder. Frank's right--all it takes is piece of debris to flip the lip of the seal(s) and you have a leak. This also happens if you painted the rod and the masking tape and/or paint get inside the lips of the seal(s) and flips them over. It will take you longer to go get the seals than it will to do the work! And it's cheap to buy th parts. Since your'e in there you might as well rebuild or replace the pistion seals---about $25 for th whole works. A hydraulic shop will want $300 or more and new cylinder from the dealer could be well over $600.

In short (I'm leaving out cautions about safety and oil dripping), all you do to replace the gland seals is lower the bucket making sure there is not load that will drop, turn off engine, slowly disconnect hydraulic lines, remove the cylinder attaching pins. Place the cylinder in a vice and remove the gland (this can take the form of many different securing systems from it just screwing to it being bolted in to a ring or clip securing it. If it's a ring securing it simply tap the galnd back into the cylinder enough to pry out the ring then pull the gland out. Once you have the gland separated from the cylinder slide the entire gland with the piston rod out. Place the rod end in a vice to prevent it from twisting out of the vice. Remove the nut securing the piston, then tap the piston off. Slide off the gland and note how the seals look. Remove and replace the seals on both the gland and the piston. Installation is opposite of removal.

Feel free to contact the board if you need more help.






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 05-28-2007, 11:34 Post: 142538
Kendews



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Hey thanks. That sounds entirely do-able. Once again I'm glad I have a small BX23 instead of that Case 580 i was thinkin' about. The leak is actually intermittant, which leads me tobelieve it might well be that some debris might have gotten into the seal. I'll soon find out.






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 05-28-2007, 19:34 Post: 142548
earthwrks

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If you have nimble fingers and good eye sight you might want to get a set of brass dental instruments that are used for removing/installing seals. You may be able to slip the tool inbetween the rod and the seal and poke around. Just be careful not to rip the seal poking around.






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