kubota l3130 3 point log splitter: Kubota Review  -- Kubota Tractors Discussion Forum and Review kubota l3130 3 point log splitter: Kubota Review -- Kubota Tractors Discussion Forum

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 01-21-2007, 19:07 Post: 138985
jbm
2007-01-21 19:07:13
Post: 138985
 kubota l3130 3 point log splitter

Does any one know how to hookup the hydrolics for a 3 point log splitter. I have only mid hydrolics for the front loader.
Thanks
jim






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 01-22-2007, 08:49 Post: 138995
Murf

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 kubota l3130 3 point log splitter

Jim, unless you have a rear remote the lines likely won't reach. If they do, just pick a set of outlets and use them, you will lose the other function on the loader of course.

Just be sure that the splitter and loader are both either open center, or closed center or it will do some funny things.

Best of luck.






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 01-22-2007, 11:17 Post: 139004
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 kubota l3130 3 point log splitter

Everyone has different ideas as to how to split wood but as much as you might need another engine and pump it still might cost less then the total price of it tied to your tractor.






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 01-22-2007, 19:01 Post: 139031
beagle

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 kubota l3130 3 point log splitter

You can add additional circuits off the Power Beyond of you FEL valve. We add aftermarket rear remotes from the FEL PB for several uses, top and tilt, rear grapples, etc. Tou can add additional circuits, or use a splitter off the FEL valve. Adding circuits from the Power Beyond allows you to continue all Froont Loader functions while the rear remotes are operable. If you use a citcuit splitter, it's one or the other.

Your tractor has an open center system, so you need to make sure you get a splitter with an open center valve.






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 11-18-2008, 16:29 Post: 157985
bialecki



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 kubota l3130 3 point log splitter

Hi guys I am bringing up an older thread. I recently purchased a SpeeCo 3pt log splitter from Tractor Supply. To address the hydraulic requirements, I ran a line from the Power Beyond to the rear of the tractor and a also added the return line. When not in use I have the two lines connected to complete the circuit. The quick connectors are mounted to a flange that is bolted to the rear of the tractor.

When using the log splitter I just connect the in line to the supply from the Power Beyond and the return to the return fitting/ connector that was added to the rear of the tractor. This setup allows me the use of the FEL which I use to transport the split wood.

In retrospect I would have not gone with the 3 pt splitter but would have gone with a dedicated splitter for the following reasons:

1) Slow cycle speed.
2) Requires the tractor to use the splitter, i.e., 30 Hp to run a splitter, not efficient.
3) Need of the tractor to move logs and split wood around to feed to the splitter or to stack at another location. Having the splitter attached to the tractor is not really convenient.

Benefit:
1) one less engine to take care of.
2) good rear ballast (just joking)






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 11-19-2008, 02:02 Post: 157998
candoarms



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 kubota l3130 3 point log splitter

Bialecki,

You make a good point with the cycle time being too slow. Most smaller tractors don't put out the necessary flow from the hydraulic pump to cycle a wood splitter as quickly as it should.

Most wood splitters require at least 11 gallons per minute to operate at reasonably quick cycle times. Most compact tractors put out less than 7 gallons per minute at full engine RPM.

The better solution is to mount a PTO driven pump on the splitter. This requires a separate hydraulic oil reservoir mounted somewhere on the splitter, as the tractor's hydraulic circuits aren't used. With the PTO powered pump, compact tractors in the 20 horsepower range can easily put out 11 gallons per minute. Larger tractors can do much better than that.

The additional benefit of having a PTO powered pump, is that the tractor can quickly be disconnected from the splitter, to be used for other projects. Reconnecting the splitter is as simple as locking the pump back onto the PTO shaft, and the connection point isn't nearly as critical as it is when hooking up to a hitch. You only have to get close enough for the hoses to reach.

I like the PTO pump for another reason. When changing the fluids in the tractor, I don't have to worry about the oil in the splitter contaminating the fresh oil I just put in the tractor. Since the hydraulic circuits are entirely independent from one another, the oil in the log splitter can be changed anytime it's convenient.

Joel






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 11-19-2008, 08:56 Post: 158003
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 kubota l3130 3 point log splitter

I like the standalone splitter. Tow it to the job site, disconnect it, as wood is split it gets loaded into both ends of the tractor and ferried back and forth between the jobsite and woodshed.






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 11-19-2008, 09:19 Post: 158004
Murf

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 kubota l3130 3 point log splitter

I suspect a big part (most, likely) of the problem is not the tractor, but the lines and valves that connect the splitter to it.

I have several 3pth splitters, they run nearly the same speed as a stand-alone version would, faster if the stand-alone doesn't have a 2 stage pump.

Even a modest size tractor has ~8gpm to the remote or power beyond port. By comparison a typical 9hp Honda with a single stage pump makes ~3gpm. That's a little under half the volume, and therefore under half the speed. A typical 9hp Honda coupled to a 2 stage pump will make ~16gpm at low power, but still ~3gpm on high pressure.

The math doesn't work for the stand-alone splitter argument. Not unless you fully cycle the cylinder on every single stroke. Even then I doubt you could tell the difference.

If for instance, you are cycling a 24" cylinder stop-to-stop, and splitting 16" wood you are moving the cylinder 8" x 2 directions each time too much. That's 16" of cylinder travel wasted on each cycle.

But if you look at the above figures, and figure that for 66% of the time (16" of 24"Wink yeah right the cylinder is moving 100% faster (8gpm instead of ~3gpm) then the tractor should be way faster.

I run my personal one with the tractor at a fast idle, ~2/3rds throttle, and have it mounted on the utility bracket on my FEL. I've run it side by side to a stand-alone plenty of times, no visible difference in speed. There's a huge difference in operator comfort though, not having to bend over is a huge bonus!!

I'll bet if you calculate the proper hydraulic line size for what you are trying to do you will find the lines are probably about half or less of what they should be.

Best of luck.






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 11-19-2008, 10:15 Post: 158009
bialecki



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 kubota l3130 3 point log splitter

Murf, I think on one of your replies with reference to a log splitter and the timing, you noted that you added a chain to act as a hard stop on the return stroke of the cylinder, hence the position of the valve pops the detent and stops the cylinder from fully retracting, saving cycle time in both directions. As I understand it from your response, I can possibly add a clamp onto the beam so when the wedge is returning it will encounter the resistance and pop the detent. Assuming that the Speeco 3pt log splitter uses an inexpensive valve, I wonder if there is an adjustment so the detent will pop out with the minimal resistance created from mounting a clamp, i.e., "C" clamp or Vise Grips, etc.

Any thoughts?

Thanks






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 11-19-2008, 11:56 Post: 158011
Murf

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 kubota l3130 3 point log splitter

That wasn't me, but it would work, in theory, but I don't like the idea in general because it would be difficult to put on a chain such that it stopped the cylinder without trying to twist it.

You don't need anything fancy, most hydraulic shops, and likely web-based outlets as well, sell something called a "stroke limiter" or "stroke controller" which is nothing more than a fancy term for a collar you clamp around the piston rod. When it hits the body of the cylinder it causes enough pressure to kick the valve off it's detent.

It doesn't have to be that fancy. For instance, a piece of heavy wall pipe or tube just big enough to go around the piston rod and cut lengthwise down the middle then put around the rod with a rad hose clamp will work just fine.

If you always split 16" wood, and have a 24" stroke splitter, just make a 6" sleeve that will restrict the opening to 18" until you remove it. That will save you the time for the cylinder to travel 12" (6" open, 6" close) on each stroke. That will speed you up by 25% right off the bat.

If you look at my picture # 8 (see below) you will see my notion for doing it. It's a little tough to see, but the cylinder has NO detents at all, and is spring-loaded such that letting go of the handle causes it to go to the 'open' position. The bar that is visible going downwards past the cylinder then meets an adjustable stopper on the push plate.

It works very simply, when you split a piece of wood and let go, the spring causes the valve to start the retract process. When the cylinder opens to the (adjustable) point of the stopper meeting the rod, the valve is pushed back against the spring and into the 'null' (parked) position waiting for the next block.

Best of luck.





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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Kubota Review Forum

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