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Kubota BX2350 BX2200 Price help

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scotty
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 22 Cheswick PA
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2007-09-08          145508

I was purusing the dealers today to finally pick my Kubota. Here's the two setups that are offered:

New 2350
54" standard deck
FEL
Rear blade 72" (6-way)
delivered & taxes
$13959

Used 2200 (700hours)
Original 54" deck
Minor rust on parts of deck and 3-point
Runs perfect, no leaks
New FEL installed
New rear blade 72" (6-way)
Delivered, taxes and full service
$11,130

I'd like to hear your opinions on the prices. The 2200 is in good shape. looks like it may have been outside for a season but that's it. I drive it and it is solid. Just a bit bummed about the minor rust and 700 hours compared to the new with a warranty. Like the old all metal vs the new plastic...



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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2007-09-08          145509

I always go with new due to warranty, and it looks better. And usually financing is much, much cheaper, unless you're paying cash.

Metal body work: I have never seen metal panels that don't rust or chip no matter how new or how well taken care of. And they're easily dented.

Plastic panels are extremely durable, forgiving when it comes denting, and well...they look cool. If they get broken they can be repaired using normal automotive fiberglass resin and paint (as can metal). ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2007-09-08          145511

There have been a few spirited debates here between metal and plastic composite panels. Personally, after a few years with composite panels I'm sold on it (and ten years ago I never would have thought that). Metal panels seem to look old after a year or two - dented, scratched and rust spots. The plastic composite panels on my little JD still look great in spite of crashing through brush all the time. So maybe that shouldn't be a big consideration in your decision. But, if you want metal you want metal. ....

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scotty
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 22 Cheswick PA
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2007-09-08          145515

What's mostly my concern is whether the price is fair and if $3K is worth the warranty and having a new tractor. From my research, there's little difference between the current 2350 and a 6 year old 2200. I do love metal but your points are all well taken. I just feel like everything is plastic these days. I'm just comming down from my anger with buying a $3K husky lawn tractor that lasted only 80 hrs. It seemed high quality. Should have just gone with a Kubota as my gut told me a year ago... ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2007-09-08          145517

Don't let the Husky quality sour you (BTW Husky is like THE bottom of the quality ladder).

It's really not easy for anyone but you to decide what's a good deal and what's not. You know your market better than we. Tractor prices vary wildly between markets and sometimes for no apparent reason.

And you have to keep in mind that anytime you buy a used tractor from a dealer, most likley YOU are paying for lost profit on that one from the guy that traded it.

What I like to do is when the dealer tells me "oh sure it'll keep it's value" like when I bought my second new skid steer (stickered at $47,000 but they only gave me $20,000 for the other one on trade), the first thing I tell them is "Greeeeeat put THAT in writing for when I go to trade it in". They never do. ....

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hardwood
Join Date: Dec 2002
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2007-09-08          145521

The majors, Blue/Orange/Green do hold their resale very well especially if they come from a good home, so putting the extra 3k in the new one wouldn't bother me too much especially considring the new warranty and all. I am from the old school on the plastic too, but I'll agree the metal does show it's age a lot quicker. A 700 hour tractor of blue/orange/green quiality that came from a good home is nearly a lifetime from being worn out. Nothing wrong with buying used long as you and the dealer agree where their responsibility comes off and your takes over on any warranty that may be offfered by them. It's just amatter of your comfort level with the machine you buy. Keep healthy. Frank. ....

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scotty
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 22 Cheswick PA
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2007-09-09          145561

Well I think I'm going to go with:

New 2350
54" standard deck
FEL
Rear blade 72" (6-way)
delivered & taxes
$13959

rather than the:

Used 2200 (700hours)
Original 54" deck
Minor rust on parts of deck and 3-point
Runs perfect, no leaks
New FEL installed
New rear blade 72" (6-way)
Delivered, taxes and full service
$11,130

I'm not so sure the dealer was right in suggesting a 72" rear blade. That sounds quite a bit large for this tractor and more than what I need so this may shave a few $ off. My thoughts are offering $500 less than his quote (corrected for a smaller blade) then ask that he throw in a landscaping rake. ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2007-09-09          145575

I should have done some specification research prior.

At the risk of offending you and anyone thinking of buying one or wanting one...please read on.

This is a relatively smallish machine---for the price. I just did some research (see link below). Personally I'd go one size bigger for a few more dollars.

The 6' back blade I feel is too much for a small machine like that. That has to be a Category 1 attachment on a Cat. 0 machine isn't it? Mine would pull it okay but if it really loaded up, I doubt you have the traction or the weight to pull it. Same thing for a 6' landscape rake. (all my attachments are 6' and the hp is 33 & 4x4)

Speaking of Categories 1 v. 0, if the SCUT is a Cat.0 and you use it with a Cat. 1 attachment, is it under warranty if something breaks? Or wears prematurely?

After reading the review posts from the site link below, this is my supposition: the dealer is pretty smart. He realizes that a small machine like that WITH a FEL just doesn't have a enough what we call "ass" or weight to keep it from tipping or being tippy. He knows that most customers will bawk at having to buy a ballast box TOO so he makes you think he's "generous" and "give" you a blade that is way too big (a 60" blade may not be heavy enough). That big blade hanging off the back is more than just pure weight but it is leveraged weight.

Again, I'd read the post reviews about engine running too hot, things breaking, and tipping w/ a FEL before I plunk down money.

And believe me, there is nothing like realizing you could have had something bigger and well, better for just a few more dollars when you realize what you're "married to" just won't do the job---or it does the job but takes longer and break$ too. ....

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scotty
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 22 Cheswick PA
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2007-09-09          145580

The BX2350 is equipped with a cat 1 3pt per the spec sheet on the kubota web site.

Adding a FEL to it, I'm told the dealers fill the tires for proper ballast. In fact, this model is no different than the BX23 or 24 except for the BH.

Can you post the link you were referring to?

I believe all I really need is Kubota's 48" blade that's on their website. However, I can't tell if it can adjust its angle from side to side for clearing out gravel driveway drainage ditches... I believe this is called 6-way.

So if I understand your post, the thought is that both the 2350 and 2200 aren't up to snuff for a FEL and rear blade?

Thanks for the help! Just got approval from the "boss" to buy one. I need to hold back until I have ALL the facts straight!

....

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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2007-09-09          145585

Scotty,

Have you compared the price difference between the 2350 and the B7610?

You're getting a heck of a lot more tractor with the B7610, and it's a very nice machine. I'm sure you'd like it a whole lot more.

Joel ....

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bvance
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2007-09-10          145586

Scotty,

What will you use your new tractor for? The BX may very well be all the tractor you need and depending on what you will use it for, the B model may be better....just depends on what you are using it for.

In my opinion, you have already done the right thing by choosing a new machine over the used.

A 6' blade scraper, probably weights about the same as a 5' box blade, so either way, the BX will handle it but marginally. But again what are you wanting to do with the blade scraper? Perhaps a box scraper might work as well or better. You mention a question about the offset feature of a blade scraper, so perhaps you need that feature, because the box blade will not offset. In any event, I tend to think a 6' blade scraper is bit much for a BX....not so much in weight, but when full of material, it may be too much for the BX to pull properly.

Joel's advice is always good and always spot on, but he tends to suggest one size larger, which is a strategy that I generally agree with, but it would be helpful to know what you intend to do with this tractor, and maybe the BX is plenty or perhaps a size bigger would be advisable.

Brian ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2007-09-10          145587

Sorry guys, the link about the review didn't take. Here it is below.

Scotty, if I'm not mistaken the blade you are referring to is likely a "6-position" versus "6-way". The distinction sounds minor but in the world of construction equipment there is vast difference---namely cost. 6-position means it is not infinitely adjustable--just 6 positions left, right, and centered---all in one geometric plane or level to the ground. 6-way (think bulldozer blade) means it goes up, down, and left to right, however it can also tip the corners of the blade. Add $6000 to the cost of a 6-position blade :)

As far as cleaning drainage ditches with a back blade, the offest"ness" of the blade isn't going to allow you to "reach" out like you may be hoping (I don't know what you have in mind). The purpose of the offset that you are referring to is so that you don't drive where you want to scrape (I think you know that). And keep in mind that a 48" blade is just that when it's straight---however, when you adjust or turn it it becomes much skinnier---that's when you'll need to offset it to make up for the lost width. Also, if the blade were able to "reach" any appriecable amount, it would tend to tip the machine enough that you'd lose traction. And not only that if you did have traction to keep the wheels down the blade would act like a training wheel on a bicycle in that as soon as it digs in it it would spin you around into the ditch.

I have a 14,000lb. road grader that has a 10' wide mouldboard (blade) that can slide or "reach" about 5-6'. I tried to deeply clean ditches with it but like I mentioned it gets spun around or pulled into the ditch.

....


Link:   Compact tractor review

 
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candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2007-09-10          145594

Bvance,

I looked at the BX series of tractors before deciding on the "bigger" B series. Though my tractor isn't big, by any stretch of the imagination, it's nearly twice the size of the BX series tractors.

My B2100 has a 21hp engine. The B7610 is the same size, but offers more horses. While the difference isn't very great, the B7610 would allow me to move up one size in the implement department.

For example, I'm currently limited to implements of 4 feet. With the extra horses, I'd be able to handle 5 footers easily. And with 5ft implements being much more common, it would be far easier to find used implements.

It's not so much a matter of suggesting that a person move up one size over what they currently have, as it is the convenience of finding implements that can be used efficiently with a slightly larger tractor.

What good is a tractor, if implements to match up properly cannot be found? To me, at least, a tractor is much more useful and economical to run, when implements of the proper size are easily found for sale on the used market.

Anyway......the BX series of tractors is far too small for the amount of money they're asking for them. A larger tractor, capable of doing far more work, and at about the same price, just makes more sense to me.

Joel
....

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scotty
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 22 Cheswick PA
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2007-09-10          145601

I'm glad I found the forum. Seems all the info I need is here!

In terms of upsizing, I've been mentally doing that ever since I burned the HST in my Husky a few weeks ago so I'm beginning to move into uncharted territory. I'm not opposed to looking at the B series however, my constraints are money ($14K) and size. The bigger the tractor, the less shop room to drink beer with my buddies.

My plans for the tractor are:
I have 10 acres. 1.5 are grass which I have someone else mow. I'll mow periodically but not the primary use.
2 or so acres are weeds with numerous trees. I plan to keep these weeds down periodically. Over time, I'd like to grade and rake the floor so these semi wooded areas look nice.

I have about 1/5 mile of gravel driveway that I'd like to grade and keep up a slight ditch. Additionally, I'll need to plow snow from the driveway.

About 1/2 mile of trails to mow - anything with a deck could handle.

And some FEL work for mulch, soil, etc.

BTW, the dealer with the used BX2200 called and said the 72" would be fine for snow. Thought it might do OK with the driveway. Without it attached, it would need ballasted wheels (alcohol). I asked if the standard FEL install price included the ballasted wheels and he said, oh yea- that's correct.

Anyway, I'm still thinking the BX2350 is my tractor with a 60" or 48" rear blade that can tilt for maintaining a slight drainage in my driveway. I could easily be talked into larger if it fits within my constraints. Oh yea, my wife also has to be able to drive it since she liked the Husky. (Maybe I should sell it to her --no-- the better plan is to get her to love the new Kubota so when I want to upgrade it, she's in support!!) ....

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bvance
Join Date: Jul 2004
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2007-09-11          145616

Scotty,

You will find a lot of good info on this board.

In my mind your decision is not as much as wrong or right as one of preference. I value Joel's opinion highly and I don't mean to sound as if he's wrong and I'm right. You take all of the info you can get and make the decision that you believe is best for you.

You say cost and room in the garage is an issue for you. I don't know the cost difference between a BX and a B, so I can't comment whether a B is cost justified over the BX. You can check that out and make your decision.

A BX will do everything you mentioned and not push the envelope. Now, if you decide to clear the 10 acres, then that is a different issue...the B would not likely be the best for that either. But for the chores you mentioned, you would be happy with the BX.

Joel, you can easily find all of the implements made for a BX that you will find for a B. They are both CAT 1. The only difference is the BX rear arms will not lift as high as a B, so they make implements that have different clearance tolerances...but just as effective overall. I am not arguing that a BX will do just as much as a B. A B is a more versatile machine for bigger chores....if you need it and can justify the added expense. All I am saying is the BX will do what Scotty needs quite well.

Scotty, one comment on the blade scraper. Most do not have scarifers that you can lower and use. To grade a road, oftentimes you will want the scarifers to rip the compacted areas around the pot hole and then refill it with the blade, or the pot holes will be back in no time. The box blade with scarifers will do both. But the box blade will not work as well as the blade scraper in the snow.....always trade-offs. If you don't have to move a lot of snow, I think I would get the box scraper. 2nd to the FEL I think it is the most useful implement one can get. Making trails, grading your road, it will do a much better job at cutting and filling than the blade scraper.

Good luck!

Brian ....

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hardwood
Join Date: Dec 2002
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2007-09-11          145617

Scotty; Bvance hit on a good point. The little light duty rear blades are usless in hard unscarified soil, they just aren't heavy enough to offer any penetration. A box blade with scarifiers will do two things the rear blade won't, it will loosen the soil plus along with move soil, plus the box blade is a great counterweight for your front end loader. Factory made rear weight boxes for a loader ar kind of a waste of money, spend a bit more and get a box blade instead. Far as rear blades go I had one that I traded for a landscape rake, a much more usefull tool, it won't loosen unscarified soil either, but will do a far superior job in leveling loose soil, crushed rock, move snow just as well as a blade without the sudden bang of hitting a hidden curb that a blede gives you, you may bend a tooth or two, but you won't break expensive things like blade frames, three point hitch componets, etc., not to mention your neck and back. Frank. ....

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scotty
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 22 Cheswick PA
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2007-09-11          145628

Thanks for everyone's input. For my particular application, I feel the rear blade and landscape rake are most appropriate. I'm sure I'll add additional implements in the near future. The config I'm having the dealers quote is:

Kubota 2350
Standard MMM
234FEL
Bush Hog model 35 60" blade (made for 35HP)
Bush Hog landscape rake 60"

First price delievered and taxes is $14,800. I'm pretty sure they can do better without having to down scale the implements. I'm thinking of offering a max of $13900 for the whole deal. Any last minute thoughts? I'm still waiting on a few other quotes but I don't expect them to differ more than a few $100.
....

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bvance
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2007-09-11          145630

Scotty,

What do you plan on doing with your landscape rake? I have one and it works well for certain things, but is not as versatile as I had hoped it would be. You may want to consider a box-blade instead. Having a box blade and a blade scraper both is not a bad thing!

Brian ....

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scotty
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 22 Cheswick PA
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2007-09-11          145631

Brian,

Good point. I was planning on using it to "Rake" our woods and fields to clear rocks, sticks, and bumps. Also to rake the driveway periodically once I have the grade and ditches improved. I'll have to regrade and ditch at least once a year after heavy rains (blade). ....

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bvance
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2007-09-12          145633

Scotty,

The one thing about the rake is it has no sides to capture whatever you are raking. It will move the items you want (rocks, sticks etc.) to the side if you slant it, but you have to make successive passes to windrow things and then you have to pick them up somehow...not an easy task even if you use the FEL. Also when you make successive passes, the rake begins to pick up dirt as well as whatever you are trying to remove and you end up with a lot of dirt with your rocks or stick. Then disposal is an issue with all of the dirt.

With a boxblade, the box captures it and you can "dump" it in piles and scoop it up easier with your FEL.

I think the boxblade will work better than a rake on a driveway in that it will always have material in the box that will fill in lower spots and take off the higher areas.

I've used both my rake and boxblade doing the things you will want to do and while there are things one implement does better than the other, I would prefer to use the boxblade in mose cases and if I had to choose just one, it would be the boxblade, hands down. Just my opinion.

Brian ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2007-09-12          145636

I agree with Brian. Except to use my PTO-powered Harley rake, my box blade stays on all the time. And I use it to clean up debris too, like tree clippings, braches and construction debris, and grading crushed stone, which as a contractor I do a lot of. I have a landscape rake that has only a few hours on it, and that's because I din't have the boxblade or Harley rake yet. I even use the boxblade as a work platform or "hauler" to place the generator/welder on, or slip some RubberMaid totes down inside and use it to haul tools around or use them to put trash and stuff. ....

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scotty
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 22 Cheswick PA
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2007-10-10          146773

Well I pulled the trigger.

BX2350
FEL
54" MMM
5' Bush hog rear blade w/tilt
5' Bush hog rake
Calcium loaded tires
3-point hitch adapter for ball, pin, etc
Delivered AND taxes
$15,050 - all new

Pretty happy about that. Get it Friday... ....

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DennisCTB
Join Date: Nov 1998
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2007-10-10          146774

That's great! Let us know how much fun you have your first day! ....

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scotty
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 22 Cheswick PA
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2007-10-13          146915

Works great so far except it dies going down hill. Only on a steeper angle but it does it consistently. Any thoughts? ....

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nosteiner4me
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2007-10-13          146925

scotty....does it have a seat switch under the seat that may be loose, your weight is more forward going down steep hill and the seat may tilt up and kill the engine in gear. Just a thought...... ....

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candoarms
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2007-10-14          146932

Scotty,

You can blame the lawyers, insurance companies, and the stockholders for the problem. They're the people who insisted on putting the safety switches under the seat.

The only safety switch you need is the one that's located between your ears. However, I do think it's a good idea to have a safety switch on the clutch and the transmission, as there's no guarantee that you'll be the only person who ever attempt to start it.

I won't tell you what to do with that safety switch under the seat, but if you need any heavy weapons to help you disable it, give me a call. hehehe.

Joel

....

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scotty
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 22 Cheswick PA
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2007-10-14          146942

Did some tests this morning. It's not the seat switch. When I'm nose down and not even that steep, and the mid PTO (mower) is on, it dies. If I disengage the PTO, I can save it but as soon as I try to put it back in it dies again. Once flattened out a bit, I can put the mid PTO back on. ....

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scotty
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 22 Cheswick PA
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2007-10-14          146952

Same thing with the loader. If I'm nose down a bit and am moving while lifting, It dies... ....

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earthwrks
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2007-10-14          146961

Not familar with your machine but dumb question: yo have checked the fuel level, right?

And is there possibly a low-oil sensor that works when the engine tips too far one way or another? ....

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nosteiner4me
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2007-10-15          146996

Guess I just reread your post and its all new equipment....Just call the dealer to pick it up
and let them fix and find the problem.
You do not really want buyers remorse now do you!
They should fix it very fast for you, if you purchased
from a good dealer. good luck ....

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scotty
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Posts: 22 Cheswick PA
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2007-10-15          147004

The problem seems to be the seat switch. I can stand while driving and it takes several seconds to shut off. I'll call the dealer tomorrow.

Regardless, this thing is worth every penny I paid for it. It's an amazing machine. The rake and blade are perfect for grooming a gravel driveway. Running the rear lift takes practice to avoid making humps. Also getting the right angle of attack for both implements takes trial and error.

The FEL is indispensible and a snap to take on and off. Wish I could say that for the 3-point hitch but I guess they're all a &!tch.

The mower cuts perfect and the lift system for it is really handy for getting over curbs.

Anyway, since this post if for price help, just wanted to say thanks and the $15K for the whole package was worth it. ....

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Kubota BX2350 BX2200 Price help

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dmccarthy
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 10 Colden,ny
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2007-10-22          147227

Scotty, I was looking at the BX24 and came close to buying it. Then I went to the cub cadet dealer and looked at the new yanmar tractor and thought for the money I can't go wrong. At first I thought it was too much machine for me. It's called a compact but it's larger than the b series Kubotas. Now that I have it I'm satified I made the right move. Just thought I mention it. Good luck. ....

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scotty
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 22 Cheswick PA
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2007-10-23          147266

Sounds like you made a great choice for your needs. While I'd love a larger tractor, it wouldn't be practical for my application.

So far (9 hrs. on meter), the 2350 has done everything I've asked it to. I've re-graded and shaped 1200' of gravel driveway and drainages. I've moved dirt, gravel, and rocks numerous times. I've mowed several acres of grass and tall weeds. And I've carried the garbage out every Tuesday evening. Plus it fits in my 1 car garage shop. If it does well in a Pennsylvania ice storm with snow, I'm in hog heaven! ....

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scottinvt
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1 VT
TractorPoint Premium Member -- 5 Tractors = Very Frequent Poster

2007-10-31          147623

I have the same bx2350 with Loader, mower, York rake, front mt snow thrower, You will not be disatisfied !! You also got a fair price. I am getting a Curtis cab for it I will let you know how it works. Scott ....

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