1–bottom plow JD790: John Deere Review  -- John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum and Review 1–bottom plow JD790: John Deere Review -- John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum

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 03-31-2004, 15:01 Post: 81722
bmlekki



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 1–bottom plow JD790

Hello all, I have been reading through the site for a while now and have not come accross any post about the 790 and a 1–bottom plow... Anybody know if the 790 can easily handle a 1 or 2 bottom plow will R4 tires and cut up a new spot thats all sod right now???
Thanks,
Brian






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 03-31-2004, 21:49 Post: 81758
itsgottobegreen

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 1-bottom plow JD790

My JD 214 lawn and garden tractor has only 14 hp and two wheel drive. It handles a Brinly 10" one bottom plow with no problem in sod. So yourour 790 has to be able to handle at least 2-12" plows






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 04-01-2004, 09:08 Post: 81784
DRankin



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 1-bottom plow JD790

There isn't a lot of plow talk here. Most folks use tillers and do it all in one pass.

Your 790 will certainly pull a plow if it is sized to the machine.






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 04-02-2004, 12:20 Post: 81881
deersg



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 1-bottom plow JD790

I think R4s are going to cause a problem with getting proper hitch alignment for moldboard plowing.






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 04-02-2004, 12:43 Post: 81884
bmlekki



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 1-bottom plow JD790

Are the R4's not as tall as the R1's??

Also it has been stated before, most people are using the tiller instead of plows. I want to make a few small food plots up in the woods and a good size garden..

So the tiller would be the way to go?






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 04-02-2004, 15:34 Post: 81899
yooperpete



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 1-bottom plow JD790

Your JD790 should pull a single bottom plow with R-4's without a problem. I have a little trouble with mine equipped turf tires when plowing quite deep. My combined gardens are about an acre or so.

A moldboard plow is lots cheaper than a tiller and is kinda old technology. Its intent was to turn the soil such that the debris on top would be turned down under to decay and turn into natural fertilizer. It is faster than a tiller in wide open spaces but doesn't provide a smooth top surface with fine soil particles.

A tiller can also break up new soil but breaks everything into very fine particles.

You can go either way. I have both items.

I like to plow under my corn stalks, rotten tomatoes and pumpkins in the fall. It makes good fertilizer. In the spring, I like the tiller to make fine soil particles getting ready for planting. If the plots are small, I may use my walk behind tiller for spring planting.

Depending upon the plot size, I may go either way to break up sod for a new plot.

I prefer the tiller for redoing my lawn by not setting it very deep and just mulching/ grinding the sod and soil together.






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 04-05-2004, 13:30 Post: 82208
bmlekki



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 1-bottom plow JD790

So after I turn the soil with the plow should i use a disk harrow to cut it up better?? Or is the disk used for something different all together?






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 04-06-2004, 09:30 Post: 82302
yooperpete



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 1-bottom plow JD790

If you are going to plow a field/garden with tall corn stalks, tall vegetation, etc., first using the disk will mash them down and cut them up (i.e. reason for notched disc teeth in front) so you get better coverage when plowing. If you're just doing a food plot and have a real sandy soil with little vegetation, the disk may chop it up sufficiently that plowing is not necessary.

If you fall plow, in spring the soil will be mostly loose from freezing and thawing (if you live in a northern climate). Some type of harrow or spring tooth drag can be used to smooth it out, you need not go real deep. Doing so will dry out the damp soil that the plants need to germinate and restricts developement of a good root system. A disk can also be used, just don't go real deep. The angle of the disk will help to throw the soil while it churns it up and smooths it out as compared to a plowed field. Usually a disk has adjustments allowing the disk rows to be tilted. The front row of disks are rotated forward at the outer edges and the rear row pointed to the rear at the outer edges.

If you spring plow, the soil usually has more moisture from the winter and spring snow/rain(i.e. the ground is more moist 6" down than at the top and plowing has brought this bottom soil to the top), the roots and debris have not yet decayed, so the disk afterwards will break this up. If you spring plow do it early but when the soil is dry, generally wait a week or more before disking. Hopefully afterward spring rains will re-add moisture to the soil. You will want to make sure the turned soil is dry before disking. If you don't and have clay type soil, it will be hard and chunky all summer. These chunks can be so hard they seem like cement/rocks about 3/4to 2" diameter. That kind of soil condition isn't fun working in when trying to have a nice garden plot.

When spring plowing, I usually don't plow quite as deep. In fall I go about 6-7" deep and in spring about 5-6". If you don't go deep enough, the soil doesn't flip very good and cover but that doesn't usually happen unless you are only about 4".

Fall plowing is better because of moisture retention!

When plowing you don't want to go too fast nor too slow. With my hydro, I use low range at full speed at 2200-2500 rpm. With a geared transmission that would be about 2nd gear.

When disking, you may want to work the ground at a diagonal to the direction that you plowed if at all possible. The ride is smoother and throws the soil in the plowed voids better. This depends upon your garden/field plot size.






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 04-18-2004, 21:56 Post: 83566
grassgod

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 1-bottom plow JD790

I have a 99 790. it's 30 hp!!! of coarse it will. That tractor has alot more sack then you know of. You just need to learn how to operate it!!






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > John Deere Review Forum

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