Go BottomPower Beyond on 4310 installation hints
 | kadorken
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 67 Canada 
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2004-02-23 77652
Since it was a nice day (only 0 deg C), I started my installation of the power beyond kit. I read all the installation instructions first. It occurred during my reading that there were inefficiencies in the steps proposed.
The power beyond kit involves adding a bracket for some hydraulic connectors in place of the top link bracket, and connecting those to the hydraulic system.
The first step on the brack assembly is to mount it on the tractor; I found that it is easier if you mount all the hdyraulic connectors to the bracket first, and THEN put the finished assembly onto the tractor (why fight with a fixed bracket on the tractor with fittings when you can do it on the workbench).
Also, remember to make sure the ROPS is not folded all the way in when you put the new bracket on (you won't get it out afterword).
This step took about 1.5 hours (most of the time was making sure I was using the right fitting in the right hole since they all look similar to the unintiated hydraulic mechanic)
I now have the bracket and fittings installed, so the next big step is remove the seat and sundry items to hook up the hydraulics. This will have to wait until another nice day.
I'll add to the thread when I have completed the next step.
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| kadorken
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 67 Canada
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2004-03-07 79157
Completed installation of PB today (not nice day, but had to get done).
Observations:
You need large wrenches to undo the hydraulic connectors. 1 3/16 (I only had 1 1/4 so it had to do), 1 1/8, and 1 1/16 and 15/16. A larger wrench is also needed (size unknown) to hold the rockshaft filter when removing. I used vicegrips.
Torque wrench with crowsfeet in above sizes would have been nice. However, tightening by feel seemed to work and I don't see any hydraulic leaks.
The 1 1/16 needs to be thin to hold the fitting for the return line under the seat. I had to grind one of my inherited wrenches down so that it would fit between the pipe connector and the manifold block (15 minutes of grinding).
It takes 1/2 hour to remove/replace the seat/plastic cover and handles (once you have done it once, and when you think you are all done discover that you put the rockshaft lever in the wrong slot in the plastic cover and you have to remove everything again to put it in the right slot. You get real good at rr the seat and cover).
Removing the seat/plastic cover also helped in wiring the additional lights mounted on a cross bar similar to Harvey's.
Now, all I need is the PB implements...
....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley 
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2004-03-08 79210
That's a pretty good description and sounds like a good job. It'll likely help somebody else.
For 'do it yourself' hose routing there are a bunch of rules in basic manuals but it's likely safe to assume that a kit installed by the instructions will produce acceptable routings. There are torque specs for hydraulic fittings (I don't know if the specs are for lubed or dry threads) but if they don't leak without sealer then it's a pretty good sign they're OK. The main thing is not too tight. Over-tightened ones leak and then there's nothing to be done except resort to sealer.
For either tape or liquid sealer, it's only applied to the upper third of threads to avoid having sealer material extend into the oil flow. Seem like you found that it takes two wrenches per fitting and thin ones help. I think I've resorted to vice grips but using proper tools always is better. Areas where there are o-rings should be inspected for burs etc. and the rings lubed before installation. The instructions may have mentioned these ideas. ....
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