John Deere 750 cooling: John Deere Review  -- John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum and Review John Deere 750 cooling: John Deere Review -- John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum

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 04-18-2002, 21:46 Post: 37613
Bob Crane
2002-04-18 21:46:19
Post: 37613
 John Deere 750 cooling

I've got two holes in the radiator of my 750. What do you suggest would be the best repair method (weld by professional, stopleak, replace radiator) to fix this? The holes are on the front and back in the lower drivers side of the radiator.

Bob






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 04-19-2002, 06:44 Post: 37624
Paul Fox



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 John Deere 750 cooling

Best long term fix is to take the radiator to a radiator shop and have it soldered up.

On the other hand, I have an old (1938) Farmall that leaked like a seive. I put a can of Wynn's in it, and nary a drop in 3 years. Wynns is NOT a flake/paste that works by gumming up the hole (and everything else in the cooling system) it works by increasing the surface tension of the water so it won't run out the hole. The old Farmall is a thermosyphon (non-pressurized) system, can't guarantee it will work on a pressurized system.

I absolutely DO NOT recommend paste/flake/goober additives like BarsLeaks, etc. The cure is worse than the problem, IMHO.






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 04-19-2002, 06:46 Post: 37625
TomG

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 John Deere 750 cooling

Any idea how the holes got there? I'm recalling a battery issue on some JD's.

Way back when, the procedure would be to add liquid laundry bluing to the rad to locate the leaks. Decide if the holes were near enough to the front or back of a tube to solder. If so, remove the rad, solder with a torch and acid flux solder then replace. Otherwise go and get a rebuilt.

I don't know if do it yourself solder jobs work these days. Something to keep in mind is that if the holes are from battery acid, there may be a bunch more waiting to happen, and a simple solder job may not to fix it for long. If the leaks are on one tube and it can’t be patched, an alternative may be to remove and block the tube. The tractor probably wouldn’t over-heat if it were not worked too hard.

I'd keep in mind that dealer parts are extremely expensive. Certainly professional repair, salvage or a rebuild would be cheaper. I think most larger cities still have a shop that does re-coring. They just need the top and bottom tanks and away they go. It probably makes little difference to them if it's a tractor rad, and it almost certainly would be cheaper than a new genuine green rad.






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