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 03-03-2001, 23:37 Post: 24980
Mark McAllister



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 John Deere

Got a little problem here... I bought a used JD 950 with a box blade a month or so ago in fair cond. Used it for driveway scraping and pulling logs out of the way. Rebuilt engine done by the friend who sold it to me. Tractor got in the way of a falling tree, which fell across the seat and steering wheel. Seat and wheel bent back into recognizable shape and seemed to run fine. An hour or so of running later, engine has fist-sized hole in block. Did the tree cause stress on the block to cause this?






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 03-04-2001, 10:21 Post: 24991
Kenny



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 John Deere

Mark, I seriously doubt that the tree caused the hole in the block . If the tree hit the tractor that hard, it probably would have broken the tractor in half. More likely, it sounds as if tou had a rod bearing failure, which caused the rod to become disconnected from the crankshaft and knocked the hole in the block from the inside. Did the engine make any unusual noise before it failed? Usually an engine develops a loud knock before a failure like this. Perhaps your friend that did the engine work did not torque the rod bolts properly. In any event it sounds like your only choice now is a new engine block or maybe you could find a good used engine, but remember that you might be buying someone elses problem when you buy used.






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 03-04-2001, 12:06 Post: 25004
Jim Reichard



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 John Deere

Hi Mark sorry to hear about your situation, a couple of things ,1 were is the hole in your block ? 2 Did the engine lock up or suddenly stop with a big bang?,3 is there any internal engine parts now hanging out of your block?4 Have you drained your engine oil to see if there are any metal deposits in it? Probably your cheapest and best bet is check E bay I have seen several yanmar genoraters and water pump units that had the same engine as what was in my John Deere 950 for a little more than $1000.00 with as little hours as 65. I hope this helps keep us informed. JIM






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 03-04-2001, 12:18 Post: 25006
Mark McAllister



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 John Deere

Jim, the hole in the block is on the left side with the rod from the #3 cylinder sticking out. It didn't lock up, it was hammering loudly and had to be shut down. I haven't drained the oil out of it, we just kinda put our tools away after it blew...... I have most of the cast parts from the block. JB weld and turn the crank? Or am I dreaming? If not, I'll check Ebay for generator or pump. Thx






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 03-04-2001, 18:05 Post: 25025
Jim Reichard



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 John Deere

I'm sorry Mark but J B weld isn't going to cut it the deisel compression is way to high . It sound like you either lost a rod bearing which would start beating the rod up and down with end play until it broke the rod or one of its bolts or my be one of you rod bolts was already streached and fractured either durring the rebuild or just after. it never pays not to have the rods resized and bolts replaced on a rebuild.

JIM






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 03-05-2001, 13:07 Post: 25050
Murf

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 John Deere

I'm a little confused, that in itself is nothing new, however unless I very much misunderstead the thread of this message the hole in the block is not IN cylinder # 3 it is in the crankcase just below it. If this is the case there will be NO compression forces against the hole and therefore the weld were it to be fixed by welding, only a little blow-by nothing of consequence. I would strip down the motor first to determine exact extent of damage and check if the crank has been twisted by the impact of rod end to block. If it is ok, then there is no reason not to rebuild, as long as the # 3 cylinder was not badly scored by the rod. Best of luck.






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 03-05-2001, 14:12 Post: 25056
Jim Metz



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 John Deere

I bought a 955 with a rod through the side of the motor. the damage was where, yes,JB weld and a piece of stainless solved my problem. I used the machine 5 years and it never developed a leak.






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 03-05-2001, 14:46 Post: 25058
Jim Reichard



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 John Deere

I agree if the rod came through the lower side of the block and did not include the piston bore that it may buse JB weld . But if it in the bore area for get it . It wouldn't last.

JIM






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 03-05-2001, 19:47 Post: 25067
Mark McAllister



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 John Deere

Ah! So it may be possible to repair the block if I can get someone who knows how to weld on cast metal, IF the cylinder walls are ok. New rod(s)and whatever else I find worn, scratched, etc. Sorry I don't make myself clear most of the time. My friend who sold it to me, and who is the one who rebuilt the engine, is worried. It had no warranty, but he's a good guy and wants to do the right thing. I'm just trying to help him.
Mark






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 03-05-2001, 19:58 Post: 25069
Jim Reichard



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 John Deere

Mark you should be able to get the block welded by a automotive machine shop or a regular machine shop with out a hole lot of trouble . I use to work at a shop in Maryland that was 50% of our work. We use to use nickel 99 rod it was one of the best and strongest for that type of repair. But it wasn't CHEAP.GOOD LUCK!

JIM






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > John Deere Review Forum

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Craig Smith 1 | Greg franklin 2 | Jim Metz 1 | Jim Reichard 4 | Kenny 1 | Mark McAllister 7 | Murf 1 |




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