Go BottomReview Trailer Connector Kit for 4210 4310 4410
 | kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 5764 NW Oregon 
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2006-06-17 130959
Today I installed the JD LVB25364 Trailer Connector Kit on my JD 4310 and thought I'd post a review for posterity.
The kit costs around $50 (I bought it a year ago and don't remember the exact figure) and comes with all needed parts and instructions. Besides basic wrenches and sockets you will need a wire stripper (14 gauge wires), electrical terminal crimper for insulated terminals, and a heat gun. An interior door panel removal tool is useful to pop the plastic connectors off the rubber boot under the seat but not absolutely necessary. It took about 2 1/2 hours to install the kit working at a leisurely pace.
The instructions are straightforward. After removing the negative battery cable and doing a little cable pre-assembly the seat has to be removed. This is one area where the instructions aren't the best. It doesn't say how to remove the seat but it's not too hard to figure out. The snap connectors need to be popped out where the rubber flex boot under the seat attaches to the floor at the front and rear. Pull up the rubber boot and remove two 13mm capscrews from the front and two more from the rear. Then pull out the seat assembly (it's awkward to pull it up and out, a second person might help some with this).
The main harness is accessible under the seat. The protective plastic flex covering is removed from the harness and the inner electrical tape needs to be unwound to expose six unterminated wires used for the trailer kit. These wires need to be stripped and crimped to the butt terminals coming from the harness, then a heat gun is used to shrink the butt terminals to provide additional protection from weather. You can't rely on wire colors to make the right connections. Each wire has a number on it and you reference the numbers when making connections. If you match up the right numbers as documented it should all be clear. The instructions don't say to route the harness before crimping the wires but it's a good idea. If you don't the installation will work fine but won't be as neat as it could be. Then you simply wrap it back up with more electrical tape and zip tie the protective wire flex cover back in place.
The 7-round-pin trailer connector can be mounted on the ROPS bracket near the base of the seat or on the power beyond or diverter bracket if installed.
Once everything is reassembled you install the included fuse and relay in the fuse panel. Reconnect the battery and you're ready to go. The plastic buttons that hold the rubber boot down aren't really made to be reused so the next time I'm at the dealer I'll pick some more up to replace those that broke.
This kit makes for a nice clean installation.
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 | earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2006-06-17 130962
KW excuse my naivete, but why/how would use a 7-pin connector? That said, I have pulled my 12K GVW dump (fully loaded) trailer once, but I didn't really need brakes. ....
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| kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2006-06-17 130963
This isn't a good answer, but it has a 7-pin connector because that's what JD wired the kit for :) I originally bought the kit to use with my 12" tow behind chipper because I drag it up and down some steep hills and thought I'd need the brakes. Haven't needed them so far, but what prompted me to install the kit was my sprayer. It's an easy way to conveniently tap into power at the rear of the tractor. ....
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 | oneace
Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 1490 south central pa 
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2006-06-17 130967
In my state you need them if you pull any type of anything on the road (all draw bar pulled implements or wagons and any 3ph that blocks the tractor lights). The piece must have lights and any thing wide or tall must also have a rotating beacon or strobe as well as the tractor must also have a full light package with beacon or strobe. ....
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 | Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4297 Southwest MiddleTennessee
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2006-06-17 130972
Great review Ken! Excellent info. as well. I may have some spraying in my future for some CRP work and I may well install this kit. ....
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| kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2006-06-17 130973
Thanks, Randy. I've been carrying around a 27 gallon sprayer in the loader bucket wired directly to the battery terminals. It worked OK but the sprayer would roll around in the bucket and hose management was cumbersome (I don't use a boom). Now I've got it set up on my 3-point carry-all and it will plug into the trailer connection. The plan is to also install a hose reel to make make a nice self-contained setup. ....
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 | DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2006-06-18 130988
Ken, does the kit include a brake actuator? Or is it just about trailer lights and a power tap? ....
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| kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2006-06-18 130989
There is no separate brake actuator. All 7 pins are connected to something. I'll dig out the tractor electrical schematic and try to figure out how the brake wire is connected up. ....
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 | Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999 Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2006-06-19 131027
Brake actuators are pretty useless on a tractor, large or small. They only really have a benefit when there is a fairly large range in operating speeds.
Also, most controllers use an internal pendulum to adjust the power, at slow speeds, or on rough ground it is nearly useless.
Anyone who has ever setup a brake controller for highway driving in hill country and then found themselves heading for the windshield the first time you tried to stop in a service plaza knows what I mean. If you set the brakes for speed they nearly lock at slow speeds. If you set them for parking lot speed they aren't there above about 30 mph.
Our big tractor has only two settings via a 3 position flip switch, off, low & high. Generally it stays in the low position.
I'm sure you will have little reason to need much adjustment.
Best of luck. ....
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