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 04-01-2000, 00:00 Post: 14363
Larry in MI.



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 Trailer story

I purchased a 16' trailer with electric brakes on one of two axles. I got it all hooked up to the truck to include the electric brake switch. Purchased the registration plate too. Took the trailer for a few shake down runs and everything seemed to work fine. Bought 3 10,000 lb. hold down straps and only used two of them (I have a spare). I put the JD4100 tractor with FEL and ballast box on the trailer today and we went for a ride. Completed the job my sister wanted done, returned home safely, off loaded everthing, unhooked everything and put it away. Backing the trailer around in a limited space was a real challenge. Trailering requires constant attention, a detailed hookup, and more preparation than you would initally believe. It was a lot of work but I can now move my tractor to any job site that my truck can pull it to. Figure on $200 - $300 above the initial cost of the trailer to make it operational and $50 to register it in Michigan.






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 04-02-2000, 00:00 Post: 14384
Eddie Watkins



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Larry, I had a similar experience. I bought the trailer, had to buy a five wire plug - $10.00, electric brake control - $65.00, a tow bar to bolt under the pickup - $155.00. The trailer had a $68.00 registration fee or I could have paid $104.00 in sales tax, my option. Guess which one I chose. The good news is most new trucks, mine is a 1998 chevrolet, have the wires already run in their harness so hooking it up was easy. I could have had it wired for another $65.00. It works like it is supposed to. I recommend brakes on any trailer that is going to be hauling very much, otherwise the trailer will push you all over the road when you try to stop. Emergency stops are impossible without brakes. I haven't bought any straps yet, but my guess is about another $100.00.






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 04-03-2000, 00:00 Post: 14389
Larry in MI.



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Eddie, your guess on the straps is very close. I paid $30 each for 10,000 lb rated ones. I'm not very happy with my brake controller. It simply works by an adjustable time delay that eventually applies full braking force to the trailer regardless of how fast you are stopping.






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 04-03-2000, 00:00 Post: 14395
Mike in MI



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FYI, Sam's Club carries 10,000lb rated USA made ratcheting straps (not certain about length) for $12.99 each (I'm in Michigan). I paid about $25 each for mine a few years ago, but at that price, I think I'm going to get a few spares.






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 04-03-2000, 00:00 Post: 14415
Larry in MI.



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Hi Mike. My brother told me that Sam's Club had a great deal on straps but I thought he must be dreaming when he told me the price. Guess I should have listened. I wonder how long the straps at Sam's are? 10 or 15 feet would be plenty long enough.






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 04-04-2000, 00:00 Post: 14426
Mike in MI



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Larry, I had a buddy of mine check on the Sam's Club straps. Here's the info.:
Mfg: Allied International, Sylmar, California; L x W: 27' x 2"; Work load limit: 3,300 lbs.; Webbing strength: 10,000 lbs.; Fibers mfg by: Allied Signal. Hope this helps. Mike






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 04-04-2000, 00:00 Post: 14438
Eddie Watkins



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Thanks for the information. I am a card carrying member so I will check to see if our local store has them.






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 04-04-2000, 00:00 Post: 14450
Murf

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 Trailer story

According to our Federal safety standards (which are the same as the ICC reg.'s except in metric) require that the Working Load Limit (WLL) capacity of your binders be AT LEAST DOUBLE that of the item retained by them, PLUS, there must be a sepaerate binder on any "any portion of the load moveable after binding the load". To make it simpler, if your tractor weighs 4000 lbs. it requires a MINIMUM of three, 3,300 lbs. binder straps on the tractor itself, plus one for the front-end loader, plus one for the weight-box or implement in the rear. They also state that the binders MUST be secured in such a way as to prevent ANY motion in the load (i.e. crossed chains to prevent side slip, etc.). Failure to do this can result in a violation for having an 'unsecure' load, whether or not you think it is, or there is a problem. Lastly, be aware that the 'safety chains' on your trailer must be capable of TWICE the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of your trailer, or they may as well not be there. I mention this because a lot of trailers I have seen lately have been equipped with "Proof Coil" or "Grade 30" chains on them, THIS IS NOT LEGAL. If your safety chains are not 'embossed' with 'G-7' or 'G-70' or 'T-7' or something similar, REPLACE THEM. Best of luck folks.






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 04-04-2000, 00:00 Post: 14456
Larry in MI.



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Thanks for the info Murf. I always try to do everything legally. This time it sounds like the boys had too much time on their hands when they made the rules. I'll take my chances with 3 straps rated at 3300 lbs holding my 1500 lb tractor, 700 lb weight box, and 400 lb loader on my trailer. I never did have any faith in the safety chain setup. From personal observations most safety chains spend their day making sparks on the pavement. That strap deal at Sam's Club sounds like the same straps that I paid $30 for!!!! Who would have ever dreamed that my brother might actually be right about something??






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > John Deere Price Forum

Thread 14363 Filter by Poster:
Eddie Watkins 2 | Larry in MI. 4 | Mike in MI 2 | Murf 1 |




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