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 03-02-2000, 00:00 Post: 13381
Larry in MI.



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 Trailer tie downs

I just bought a 16' dual axle trailer to haul my JD 4100 w/loader and ballast box around on. The tractor seems to fit well on the trailer. I wonder what others are using to secure the tractor to the trailer? Do you use wide canvas straps with ratchet tightners? Where do you hook the fastners to the tractor and trailer?? Any input is appreciated.






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 03-03-2000, 00:00 Post: 13384
TomG

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 Trailer-tie-downs

I was planning to use transport chain and tighteners myself. I think most tilt bed auto towers use chain. I'm not sure if they use tighteners or not.

I have some heavy nylon web ratchet type straps. I'm not sure I'd trust the hardware on them to hold the tractor on the trailer in event of an accident.






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 03-03-2000, 00:00 Post: 13387
Mike in MI



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 Trailer-tie-downs

Larry, First, congratulations on your new trailer. If you're like me, you (and your friends/neighbors) will find a ton of uses for it. I have an 18ft trailer that I use to haul around my JD 755 (w/ loader and various other 3 pt implements). The trailer has four tie down points in each corner. I use heavy duty 3" wide nylon ratcheting straps to secure the tractor on the trailer. Each strap is rated at 10,000 lbs. I don't hook the tractor directly. Instead I use separate heavy duty (10k lb)nylon axle straps (these are about 14-16inches long with metal loops on each end. This way I can loop the axle strap around any beefy area on the tractor - axle, frame, loader, etc.) and it's much easier on the paint than hooks or chain. This is the same setup I use to secure my '68 Dodge Charger R/T onto the trailer.

I prefer to use nylon straps for a couple of reasons.
1. Easier on the paint and in my opinion, for tieing down, is more versatile than chain,
2. Easier & lighter for me to haul around instead a bunch of chain. I store all of my tie down straps & ratchets in a medium size box.
3. Overall, just easier for me to handle/use.

However, there are also some minuses to using nylon straps over chain.
1. Chain can used for other jobs (pulling, lifting, etc.),
2. Nylon straps are not as durable as chain and you have to use some caution around sharp edges (I use pieces of scrap carpeting under the strap to protect from sharp edges.)
3. The nylon webbing needs to be kept clean/maintained. Dirt and grit will actually wear out the nylon fibers over time if it's not kept clean.

I know there are others who prefer chain over nylon straps. Maybe I'm the minority that prefers nylon straps over chain. Haven't had a problem yet in the several years I've been hauling cars & tractors around.
Hope this helps...at least a little.
Mike in MI






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 03-03-2000, 00:00 Post: 13391
Steve in Buffalo NY



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 Trailer tie downs

I'm a strapper not a chainer also. I've always used straps with rachets and axle straps for my race cars and have done the same with the tractor. My straps are 10,000 lb rated as are the D rings welded to my trailer frame. I figure that should be plenty for a 2500 lb tractor (give or take depending on implements). I figure that I could hang the tractor upside down off of the trailer and it wouldn't budge.






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 03-03-2000, 00:00 Post: 13394
Frank R Taylor



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 Trailer-tie-downs

Like Mike and Steve I also use 10,000 lb straps with ratchet tighteners although I don't use axle straps. (I may use them after this post though). I use 3 straps. I hook one through the spacer bar on the loader, one through and around the loader frame and one around the back axle. All are tied and tightened to the frame of the trailer or to anchor points along the side to prevent the tractor movinf forwards, sideways or backwards once it is tied down. You just have to be careful of any sharp corners and use scrap carpet on any severe bends to prevent the straps from being nicked. Keep them clean and use them carefully and they will last for years. I just find them a lot more convenient and easier to use than chain.






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 03-03-2000, 00:00 Post: 13428
Jeff Pizzi



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 Trailer-tie-downs

The only word of advice I'd like to offer is: IF you decide to go with chain tie downs, be sure you get the new "compound" tighteners. Don't get a deal on the old style, which, while easy to close (tighten) came slamming open and are a signifcant safety hazard if you're not paying attention. You don't want to catch a tightner in the face to save couple of bucks.






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 03-04-2000, 00:00 Post: 13455
Kevin



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 Trailer-tie-downs

Just a word of warning, chain does strech, also only us grade 8 chain, it is the only chain (there is a grade 10) that is rated for lifting.






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 03-04-2000, 00:00 Post: 13469
Larry in MI.



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 Trailer-tie-downs

I got the lights and brakes hooked up today and took it for a test drive. Everything worked fine. Now all I need is a license plate and the tie down straps. I will probably go with straps instead of chain. I will also go with the axle straps, they sound like a good idea. Thanks for all the input.






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 03-04-2000, 00:00 Post: 13479
droz



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 Trailer-tie-downs

I went with chains originally and then switched to straps for ease of use. Unfortunately, I had so many problems with them being cut on any edges and having to put pieces underneath every area they touched that I went back to the chains. No matter how careful I was I always worried about the straps being cut and losing 6000 pounds on the road.






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 03-06-2000, 00:00 Post: 13530
Steve Hansen



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 Trailer-tie-downs

I haul my IH 254 on a 12' long flatbed trailer. When I built the tailer I fabricated 3 special tiedown points. I made these out of 1/2" flatbottom "U" bolts from the farm store. Tow are welded on the front corners. The third is centered on the rear cross member of the trailer. This bolt runs through tubes welded to the crossbar and it is removable. I run two chains from the front tiedowns to the tractor chassis where they are secured to clevises. In the back, I run a chain with a turnbuckle from the tiedown to the upper 3-point mount on the tractor. This took a little fabricating but it was not very hard to do. Now, I simply drive on, connect the chains, tighten the turnbuckle, and drive off. Takes a couple of minutes. Worth it to me. I tow the tractor between my acreage and my house on a regular basis. Saves time and it is secure. I also fabricated some strap tiedowns along the sides of the trailer. I made these out of 1/2" bar stock and spacers but flat botton "U" bolts will work. I can secure a load of lumber and the straps will not rub on any sharp edges.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > John Deere Price Forum

Thread 13381 Filter by Poster:
droz 1 | Frank R Taylor 1 | Jeff Pizzi 1 | Kevin 1 | Larry in MI. 2 | Mike in MI 1 | Steve Hansen 1 | Steve in Buffalo NY 1 | TomG 1 |




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