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JD Gator only runs with choke

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badnova
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2009-10-31          166633

I just picked up a used 4x2 from a friend and it only runs with choke 1/2 way (it will run without but once you give gas it dies). I have pulled the carb/jets etc and cleaned everything with carb cleaner and compressed air (carb was really dirty). this didn't seem to help.

I did notice the pilot jet (what i suspected was causing the problems) was a bit plugged so i ran wire through all the hole but noticed the main hole that runs through the jet appears to be blocked - which tells me it probably isnt getting enough air from outside the carb - but it looks like from the top of the jet that is has a piece of small round silver metal plugging the hole - is this normal? should i try to drill it out with a jet drill bit ?

I also noticed this jet is a #42 is that the right jet for my altitude in iowa? (i think this is a high alt jet)

sorry for so many questions, dont have a service manual yet


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gatoraider
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2009-10-31          166641

If you need the choke to make it run you need more main jet. Iam assuming you are saying that when you run it at speed it will run better with the choke pulled part way out. What main jet is in it? Probably in the 80s somewhere. It needs a 90 or 91. 42 or 45 sounds right for a pilot jet. You should be able to blow carb cleaner thru the bottom of the pilot jet using the plastic nozzle provided. End holes are much smaller than the side holes.If you have to use wire to open it up use the smallest wire in a tourch tip cleaning set. ....

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badnova
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2009-10-31          166642

Quote:
Originally Posted by gatoraider | view 166641
[QUOTE=gatoraider;166641] If you need the choke to make it run you need more main jet. Iam assuming you are saying that when you run it at speed it will run better with the choke pulled part way out.

Yes, although it still has a bit of low throttle stumble to it

What main jet is in it? Probably in the 80s somewhere. It needs a 90 or 91. 42 or 45 sounds right for a pilot jet.

I think the main is an 82

You should be able to blow carb cleaner thru the bottom of the pilot jet using the plastic nozzle provided.

nope. the smallest hole at the bottom is open (really tiny) but the end with the screwdriver slot is only open down to about an 1/8th of an inch - then i see some shiny silver (looks like a perfectly fit plug) in it - should this be there (i assume not?)

End holes are much smaller than the side holes.If you have to use wire to open it up use the smallest wire in a tourch tip cleaning set. [/QUOTE] ....

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
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2009-10-31          166644

Fuel pump. If it looks like the one below - or this one ( http://www.mfgsupply.com/img/rotary/22-10875.jpg ) - replace it.

//greg// ....

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gatoraider
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2009-11-01          166647

Bad, your jet is not metering outside air, so it is NOT open at the top. If it was it would fill up with junk constantly. Look down the bore of your carb and you will see a small inlet on the side of the bore that the pilot jet is on. You will see that inlet lines up with the jet when it is screwed in. That inlet is the source for the air that is metered at idle. Air comes in there, goes thru the large holes in the jet and is metered thru the small hole. If all that is clean, I say you need a larger main jet. The way I tell when it's big enough is go down the road wot and pull the choke out a little, if you slow down, you're ok, if you speed up, you need more jet. Make sure motor is warmed up. Put a new fuel filter in it too. ....

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gatoraider
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2009-11-01          166648

Bad, just thinking about your "stumble" There is a spring that goes the length of the link between the governor arm and the carb throttle plate. PN M94839, this spring holds tension on the linkage and has to be fastened on both ends for the throttle system to work properly. Obviously your main jet doesn't have anything to do with stumble. Also when I mentioned blowing thru the pilot jet I meant thru the small end hole and out the side holes. If nothing else works Deere has a kit PN AM119044 that has a #40 pilot jet and 90, 92, and 95 main jets in it. The 40 pilot may help. Plus, if you are running out of gas on top I'd try a 90 main jet. ....

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badnova
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2009-11-01          166656

cant thank you guys enough for all the help here...Thanks

yep the springs are all there. one thing i noticed when just running it (no load) and reving it up etc that the throttle butterfly connection to the linkage seems to want to bounce around a bit - especially at higher rpms.. does that indicate anything? as it is now if i start the gator and put it in gear and try to drive it will fall all over it self, if i pull the choke on it is better but still not perfect. someone mentioned a fuel pump but it appears to be pumping fuel, has a new spark plug in it. carb is spotless now inside and out. one thing i havent asked about was the screw with the spring (air-fuel mix maybe??) i only have one, how should that be adjusted? I love the idea of giving it more jet but i have to wonder since these look like they have been in the carb for awhile (course what do i know, i have owned this only a couple days). maybe i should shoot a youtube vid and post a link so you can see/hear what it is doing - would that help? ....

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badnova
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2009-11-01          166657

posted a video here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6-U1wkLoCw

last i checked it is still processing into youtube, hopefully available for viewing soon ....


Link:   

Click Here


 
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greg_g
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2009-11-02          166658

Quote:
Originally Posted by badnova | view 166656
someone mentioned a fuel pump but it appears to be pumping fuel,
"Appears" is the operative word. If in fact your engine is a Kawasaki - and if it's got the vacuum type fuel pump - you probably need a new one. They only last ~18 months on my 15hp Kawasaki V-twin (just installed 4th fuel pump on a 5 year old engine). The diaphragm weakens (or leaks), and can't pull enough fuel from the tank. Air/fuel mixture gets too lean.

Half choke
1. tries to correct the air/fuel ratio
2. pulls more vacuum, therefore more fuel.
Only in this case, all the extra fuel does is simply make up for what's NOT pulled by the failing pump diaphragm.

Failure to replace this type fuel pump promptly will eventually result in a complete diaphragm rupture - and result in gasoline in the crankcase. Be watchful of a rising oil level. Been there, done that.

//greg// ....

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badnova
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2009-11-02          166659

are the fuel pumps rebuildable? where is the cheapest place to buy one or rebuild kits (if available)? ....

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gatoraider
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2009-11-02          166660

That little screw with the spring means alot, because it is the idle mixture screw. Warm the motor, turn screw in until lightly seated then turn out 1 3/8 turns. If it has limits, start in the center. Turn slow idle stop screw so it is not touching the stop, or just shy of the motor dying. Turn the idle mixture screw in until the rpms start to fall off and note the position of the screw. Or maybe you will have to turn the screw out to start, you will be able to tell. The idea is you have to start between the two extremes. Turn the screw counterclockwise until engine speed increases and begins to fall off and note the position. Proper adjustment is in the middle of the two. Readjust the slow idle to 1050-1100 rpm. Also your valves need to be at .005 cold. When you check your valve lash make sure the rocker arm shaft is tight in the mounting holes in the head. If those holes are worn it will change your valve adjustment and create problems. ....

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greg_g
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2009-11-02          166661

Quote:
Originally Posted by badnova | view 166659
are the fuel pumps rebuildable?
Not if you've got that vacuum type I identified, they're sealed. Virtually no moving parts anyway. Last one I priced at the local small engine shop was $34 plus tax. If you want to shop around, click below for an example.

Like I said, my 2004 Kawasaki engine has been going thru them on an average of 1 every 18 months.

//greg// ....


Link:   fuel pump

 
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badnova
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2009-11-02          166685

well I 60 bucks later i have anew fuel pump and the problem still exists, I adjusted the carb air /mix screw also. I dont have a tech manual so can someone tell me the procedure for adjusting the valves ?

so far:
new plug
new air filter
new fuel filter
new fuel pump

i am still noticing the throttle linkage bounces around when just standing there pushing on the gas pedal - is this normal ? ....

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badnova
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2009-11-03          166686

in the fwiw dept...hopefully this will help someone in the future.

i figured out that the fuel pump (part #AM109212) is actually kawasaki part number 49040-2066. The best part of this is that I found parts to actually rebuild these pumps should anyone need to. they can be found at: http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=kawasaki_engines&mn=FC540V-BS03+4+Stroke+Engine+FC540V&dn=99910-A4210140

....

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gatoraider
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2009-11-03          166687

To adjust the valves. Engine cold. Remove spark plug and valve cover. stick something long and skinny in the spark plug hole to feel the top of the piston. Hold what you are using and slowly turn the crank until the piston is as high in the bore as it will go. As you are turning the crank look at the valves, if they don't move 10 or 15 degrees before the high point of the piston you are at top dead center. If the valves are moving in that span, you are not on the compression stroke and you need to go around again. Valves are both at .005 As I said previously, check the rocker shaft for side play, also check the ends of the valves for dimples made by the rockers. Dimples will give a false lash reading. Push down on both valves to see if both have about the same resistance, you could have a weak or broken valve spring. Make sure your low idle speed is at least 1050 rpm. I think the linkage jumping around is the governor reacting to a miss in the motor. There is a governor adjustment, but it is too hard to explain. Have you tried spraying starter fluid around the intake gaskets to check for leaks? Engine will speed up if there is an intake leak. Also take a compression test after you adjust the valves. Another idea, when you had your carb off did you check the float level when carb is upside down? When upside down your float should be almost parallel to the bowl seating surface. If it dips down in the front, you could be getting too much gas in the bowl. ....

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greg_g
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2009-11-03          166688

Quote:
Originally Posted by badnova | view 166686
fuel pump (part #AM109212) is actually kawasaki part number 49040-2066. The best part of this is that I found parts to actually rebuild these pumps
Helps me, thanks. Didn't realize the metal variant was actually rebuildable. The OE pump on my Kawasaki engine was plastic, and I've been wasting my money on replacement plastic versions ever since. The fact that the case is heat-welded pretty much discourages thoughts of rebuilding. But I'll now buy one of those metal ones to have as a shelf spare for when this current plastic one inevitably fails.

//greg// ....

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badnova
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2009-11-03          166689

Thanks Gator, I'll try the valves this week if i have time or this weekend...yep sprayed carb cleaner around the intake area and no leaks after i put it on.

i'll run the valves next after that if it still exists maybe the governor adjustment?

Thanks for hangin with me on this :) ....

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badnova
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2009-11-03          166698

found the manual for the fe290d motor

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki_Service_and_Repair_Manuals/FE120_FE170_FE250_FE290_FE350_FE400_SERVICE_REPAIR_MANUAL.pdf

hopefully that will also give me some pics to look at ....

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badnova
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2009-11-03          166702

Quote:
Originally Posted by greg_g | view 166688
Helps me, thanks. Didn't realize the metal variant was actually rebuildable. The OE pump on my Kawasaki engine was plastic, and I've been wasting my money on replacement plastic versions ever since. The fact that the case is heat-welded pretty much discourages thoughts of rebuilding. But I'll now buy one of those metal ones to have as a shelf spare for when this current plastic one inevitably fails.//greg//



No sweat, hope it helps out on future repairs. ....

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badnova
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2009-11-04          166732

Quote:
Originally Posted by gatoraider | view 166687
Helps me, thanks. Didn't realize the metal variant was actually rebuildable. The OE pump on my Kawasaki engine was plastic, and I've been wasting my money on replacement plastic versions ever since. The fact that the case is heat-welded pretty much discourages thoughts of rebuilding. But I'll now buy one of those metal ones to have as a shelf spare for when this current plastic one inevitably fails.//greg//

I had a few minutes to poke around a bit more on this and tried an initial attempt at this....

[QUOTE=gatoraider;166687] To adjust the valves. Engine cold. Remove spark plug and valve cover. stick something long and skinny in the spark plug hole to feel the top of the piston. Hold what you are using and slowly turn the crank until the piston is as high in the bore as it will go. As you are turning the crank look at the valves, if they don't move 10 or 15 degrees before the high point of the piston you are at top dead center. If the valves are moving in that span, you are not on the compression stroke and you need to go around again. Valves are both at .005

>>> Noticed that the exhaust was more loose than the intake. intake had a nice drag on the feeler at .005 the exhaust was loose - tightened it to spec .005

>>> i think the exhaust spring is a just slightly softer than the intake

As I said previously, check the rocker shaft for side play, also check the ends of the valves for dimples made by the rockers. Dimples will give a false lash reading. Push down on both valves to see if both have about the same resistance, you could have a weak or broken valve spring.

i think i grabbed the rocker arm and the shaft (main one that both rockers ride on) seemed to be able to slide back and forth a bit

I wasn't sure how to get the rockers off at the time to check for dimples, will do this all again Friday when i have more time and check then

Make sure your low idle speed is at least 1050 rpm.

>>> how do i check this - there is no tach, i do have an old sears tach/dwell meter i bought at a swap meet last year - would that possibly work?

I think the linkage jumping around is the governor reacting to a miss in the motor. There is a governor adjustment, but it is too hard to explain. Have you tried spraying starter fluid around the intake gaskets to check for leaks?

>>> last time i checked this it seemed ok but the gaskets could probably be replaced. will check again friday for leaks

Engine will speed up if there is an intake leak. Also take a compression test after you adjust the valves.

>>> previous owner told me compression was 85, manual calls for min of 57 - i will recheck this weekend

Another idea, when you had your carb off did you check the float level when carb is upside down? When upside down your float should be almost parallel to the bowl seating surface. If it dips down in the front, you could be getting too much gas in the bowl. [/QUOTE]

>>> tore the carb down again tonight and re-cleaned (wasn;t dirty) blew compressed air through every hole on it
checked fuel float and it sits higher on the side away from the needle

one thing i have found while scouring the net for answers is that others have had this exact problem, of course most never relayed what the fix was (one guy said i was his fuel pump) so I am still looking, there has to be an answer to this - frankly its driving me nuts..

open to any suggestions ....

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gatoraider
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2009-11-05          166734

I noticed that all the FE290D carbs in the Kawasaki parts book have #45 pilot jets in them, you said yours was a #42. Since we are running out of ideas, I wonder if the change would help? PN 92064-2083 Double check the number on yours. Don't know about your swap meet tach. We use the ones that have the wire that wraps around the plug wire. tinytach.com ....

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purplewg
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2009-11-05          166737

Quote:
Originally Posted by gatoraider | view 166648
Bad, just thinking about your "stumble" There is a spring that goes the length of the link between the governor arm and the carb throttle plate. PN M94839, this spring holds tension on the linkage and has to be fastened on both ends for the throttle system to work properly.


Not wanting to steal the subject here but I have looked and looked at this spring trying to figure out what it does. Mine was broke but the pictures shows the spring connected in the same holes as the linkage. I just don't see how it does anything.

Can you explain? ....

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gatoraider
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2009-11-05          166738

The spring holds tension on the linkage so the throttle doesn't flutter. This spring keeps a solid connection from the governor arm to the throttle plate regardless of how much slop is in the linkage. And yes,the spring hooks can be in the same holes as the linkage. ....

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gatormaki
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2009-11-05          166742

I have a 19 month old CX with the same problem- only runs with choke. Gradually got worse. I brought it in to the dealer yesterday as CX's have 2 year warranties. When they tell me whats up I'll post but I'm thinking my problem may be what a previous poster said- fuel pump.

BTW? did your problem start gradually (only occasionally needing choke to run followed by a period of normal operation)? ....

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purplewg
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2009-11-06          166762

Quote:
Originally Posted by gatoraider | view 166738
The spring holds tension on the linkage so the throttle doesn't flutter. This spring keeps a solid connection from the governor arm to the throttle plate regardless of how much slop is in the linkage. And yes,the spring hooks can be in the same holes as the linkage.


Thanks much. I put the new spring on today. Gradually putting my rust bucket back together. ....

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badnova
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2009-11-06          166765

well thought i had a breakthrough yesterday, buddy of mine said change the fuel line it is probably collapsing choking off the fuel. i started the motor an squeezed the fuel line and coulda swore that the thing ran great - so i called my friend and said yep that was it, bought new fuel line and still runs like crap... arghh

i pulled the valve cover off tonight, pulled the rockers too, the valves seem to have a bit of dimpling in them (exhaust is ever so slightly worse than the intake) should there be any dimpling at all on these or should they be completely flat? only reason i ask is because the rocker adjust appears rounded like it came from the factory.


I also did my best to look in the tank for something stupid like a leaf or something getting drawn into the suction tube... nada

would like to have pulled the tank out and flushed it but it doesn't appear that this would be a very easy job w/o pulling all the brake and shifter linkage

ok...
so a recap so far

new plug
new air filter
new fuel filter
new fuel pump
new fuel lines (tank to pump,pump to carb)
checked the tank, pulled suction tube to make sure it is clear)

gonna show my neighbor tomorrow (hopefully) where i am at and pick his brain too (he is a mechanic by trade)

any ideas please let me know
thanks in advance
....

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badnova
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2009-11-06          166766

Quote:
Originally Posted by gatormaki | view 166742
I have a 19 month old CX with the same problem- only runs with choke. Gradually got worse.I brought it in to the dealer yesterday as CX's have 2 year warranties. When they tell me whats up I'll post but I'm thinking my problem may be what a previous poster said- fuel pump.BTW? did your problem start gradually (only occasionally needing choke to run followed by a period of normal operation)?


i have ony owned mine for about a week now so probably not much help in answering this. but i think you are right, guy i got it from said it ran great last year, sat over the winter and ran like crap w/o choke this year (he puts stabil in all his tanks religiously and i have cleaned the carb myself at least 2 or 3 times now ....

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badnova
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2009-11-06          166767

Very very anxious to hear what your issue was with yours so please post. I am pulling my hair out about now. would take it to the dealer but frankly no funds at this point (still paying for the gator) hahaha.. ....

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gatoraider
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2009-11-07          166769

Slight dimples won't affect the adjustment in the valves. One last idea from me. Check the vent hose for the gas tank. It comes out the top and runs thru the frame and comes out below the shifter. Take it off at the tank and blow air thru to make sure it's clear. ....

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badnova
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2009-11-07          166778

Well we found it and it is so stupid i cant believe it but here was the problem: part number M127231 (Restrictor) some dumb orange cap in the intake from the frame to the air canister) looks like mice chewed it up so the hole was too big (no longer restricting). when we first saw the cap i thought - why would someone put that in there and then my neighbor pointed it out in the parts book. we put a makeshift (temporary) restrictor in its place and whadda ya know runs normal now.

Thanks to all of you for your help, especially Gator - dude you are a godsend to this board. Your knowledge and willingness to help is greatly appreciated, THanks for taking time to stick with me on this helping me diagnose along the way - Thank You

I am so glad I found this board, would have been lost without it. You guys Rock !!

I have a attached a pic of the offending part - hopefully this will help someone in the future.

....

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gatormaki
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2009-11-09          166801

WOW!
Might have to send that off to the dealer as I've heard nada yet. LOL. I noticed mice in the garage awhile back.
Glad you found the problem. ....

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greg_g
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2009-11-09          166802

Good catch. Hang on to that extra fuel pump though. I guarantee that you'll eventually be glad you kept it.

//greg// ....

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purplewg
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2009-11-09          166805

I find it interesting that Kawasaki doesn't seem to offer kits. I don't see a kit for the carb or the fuel pump. Just individual parts. ....

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badnova
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2009-11-09          166807

i agree might be worth a call to parts tree - maybe a kit of rubber parts is available just not listed ....

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gatormaki
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2009-11-16          166865

Great, Gator sat at the dealer for a week and ran perfectly every day. :-(

Also ran fine when I got it home. As they tore through everything maybe they inadvertently fixed it. Can only hope.

The only funny part was when the mechanic started it up for us to take a drive the dog leaped out of the back window of the truck, ran across the parking lot and jumped in the back of the Gator. He doesn't let a running Gator out of sight- loves to ride. :) ....

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purplewg
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 36 Florida
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2009-11-17          166890

Well, keep us posted.

I pulled my carb and what a mess in the float bowl. Removed all the jets and cleaned with carb cleaner and high pressure air. Put it back together tonight and it runs like a top now. ....

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gatormaki
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 33 Illinois
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2009-12-09          167376

All right, I get it back from the dealer (where it ran perfectly of course). And it ran for a couple of weeks at home. Big storm hits the midwest (BTW- a CX with a plow and wheel weights blows away a snow blower :}). But of course it acts up as I try to plow through the storm- runs ok for 45 minutes to 5 minute, or until I start after awhile warm. I can barely keep it running by constantly starting and varying the choke setting- full choke, partial choke, as I limp home- put-put-put, get home and shazamm! works perfect again- but I noticed that slightly moving the spark plug wire effects the engine rpm noticeably.

So I think I've got an ignition problem- not a fuel problem- and now I remember my 1972 Pontiac Lemans (yes, shows my age) had a similar problem- only fired all 8 on choke at times. Took me forever to figure it out as it was a carbon track under the distributor cap between the primary and one spark plug. Varying the fuel mixture through the choke affected the voltage/timing of the spark through the defective ignition.

I think I've got a bad plug and/or coil wire as this problem first happened after its initial maintenance (it's less than 2 years old).





....

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SSAAD01
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 6 Ohio
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2010-07-25          172553

Badnova,

I was haveing the same problem this week. It took me all week to fix. I replaced the spark plug 4 times, Fuel Filter, and Ignition coil. Your problem is with the throtle govnor linkage or you are missing some dirt in the carb somewhere. To save you the headach I would start with the linkage and if that doesn't fix it you can get a new carb for about 125.00-150.00 on ebay. As for the fuel pump, if your getting fuel there is no need to replace it. I have had the same fuel pump for over 10 yrs and its still working. (new fuel pump $25-$30 on ebay. You can also order only the parts you need for the carb at http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt?search=catalog&catalog_no=9460&grid_no=A17§ion_no=20&page_no=2

I have found this catalog to be a good refrence guide.
Good Luck ....

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badnova
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 21 iowa
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2010-07-25          172567

you may want to read this whole thread, problem was fixed by replacing a 2 dollar part - a restrictor before the carburetor. check it out, had myself and most dealers round here stumped. ....

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jxmarco
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2 Beavercreek,Ohio
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2010-07-31          172728

I replaced the fuel pump with an electric pump and fixed my problem, it also clicks loud when you are about to runout of gas. ....

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mrmopar
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 7 yorkville, il
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2010-10-06          174393

I have had this problem for two years now on my 2002 gator 4x2. John Deere will not help you even though they know of this problem. John Deere is never very helpful when you have a problem. That is another story. OK, Here is what my research has turned up. There is a plastic restrictor plug located in the airbox inlet that goes in to the frame. Why would John Deere want to restrict the air intake? I cannot think of any good idea for it. When this restrictor plug falls out of the airbox and it will, it most likely falls in to the frame, That is where I found mine. Without the air restriction the carb runs lean from too much air and thus you need to use the choke just to drive the thing even when warm. Only thanks to tractor and fix it forums like this will you find this out. Our friends here are more helpful than all the John Deere dealers and service people you could talk to. Thanks everyone here for the help!! God Bless you all!!

OK, Here is the fix. Most importantly, Do not buy a new $300.00 carb or $50.00 jet kit from Deere, That is what they want you to do. You already paid $6000.00 for a machine you can now barely drive.

Assuming you have the Keihin carb, I think Kawasaki used them almost exclusively, Call or go online to Jetsrus out of Marsfield, Mo. They have the jet you need for $14.00 delivered to you. THe keihin carb has the pilot jet located on top of the carb, mine was a size 42. The main jet is in the float bowl as usual. Take off the carb and unscrew and remove the jet. Ther is a separate tube that will fall out when the jet is removed. Be careful to put this back in the same direction it came out. My main jet was a size 88. Order the main jet from jetsrus in a size 92. Description to order is Genuine Keihin slow air jet size 92 (sku-99101-ZF5). Price is $7.29 and $6.98 shipping. Clean the carb with spray carb cleaner and spray in the jet holes and the air bleed small orifice in the carb throat. Put the pilot jet back in the top of the carb, my size 42 does fine. In two days you will get the new 92 main jet, Reinstall the main jet and tube and float bowl. Replace carb and throw away the air resrictor plug you found in the airbox inlet. You have now rejetted and fixed the lean mixture problem. Start up the Gator with the choke, let warm up for 1 minute, put it in gear, Slap your left hand now for wanting to grab the choke again to keep the thing running, Now, Nail the Gas and hang on!! One last thing, Run in the house screaming to you wife that you have a new gator, she will really appreciate it now. ....

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badnova
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 21 iowa
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2010-10-06          174406

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmopar | view 174393
I have had this problem for two years now on my 2002 gator 4x2.John Deere will not help you even though they know of this problem.John Deere is never very helpful when you have a problem.That is another story.OK,Here is what my research has turned up.There is a plastic restrictor plug located in the airbox inlet that goes in to the frame.Why would John Deere want to restrict the air intake?I cannot think of any good idea for it.When this restrictor plug falls out of the airbox and it will, it most likely falls in to the frame,That is where I found mine.Without the air restriction the carb runs lean from too much air and thus you need to use the choke just to drive the thing even when warm.Only thanks to tractor and fix it forums like this will you find this out.Our friends here are more helpful than all the John Deere dealers and service people you could talk to.Thanks everyone here for the help!! God Bless you all!!OK,Here is the fix.Most importantly,Do not buy a new $300.00 carb or $50.00 jet kit from Deere,That is what they want you to do.You already paid $6000.00 for a machine you can now barely drive.Assuming you have the Keihin carb, I think Kawasaki used them almost exclusively,Call or go online to Jetsrus out of Marsfield, Mo.They have the jet you need for $14.00 delivered to you.THe keihin carb has the pilot jet located on top of the carb,mine was a size 42.The main jet is in the float bowl as usual.Take off the carb and unscrew and remove the jet.Ther is a separate tube that will fall out when the jet is removed.Be careful to put this back in the same direction it came out.My main jet was a size 88.Order the main jet from jetsrus in a size 92.Description to order is Genuine Keihin slow air jet size 92 (sku-99101-ZF5).Price is $7.29 and $6.98 shipping.Clean the carb with spray carb cleaner and spray in the jet holes and the air bleed small orifice in the carb throat.Put the pilot jet back in the top of the carb, my size 42 does fine. In two days you will get the new 92 main jet,Reinstall the main jet and tube and float bowl.Replace carb and throw away the air resrictor plug you found in the airbox inlet. You have now rejetted and fixed the lean mixture problem.Start up the Gator with the choke, let warm up for 1 minute, put it in gear, Slap your left hand now for wanting to grab the choke again to keep the thing running,Now,Nail the Gas and hang on!!One last thing, Run in the house screaming to you wife that you have a new gator,she will really appreciate it now.



Excellent info - Does it run better than with the factory supplied restrictor? I think the reason they did this is they probably saved manufacturing costs and were able order millions of the wrong carb - probably fits a different deere product - so they cheaply fine tuned air flow with the restrictor ....

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badnova
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 21 iowa
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2010-10-06          174408

btw i paid less than 3 dollars for my new restrictor and it runs fine now. if it can run better with a diff jet i would be interested ....

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gatormaki
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 33 Illinois
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2010-10-06          174411

Quote:
Originally Posted by jxmarco | view 172728
I replaced the fuel pump with an electric pump and fixed my problem, it also clicks loud when you are about to runout of gas.


Anyone know where to get an electric fuel pump to replace the crappy vacuum pump? I'm about to go on to the third one- they only seem to last me about a year or so before I start to get symptoms of the pump starting to weaken. ....

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mrmopar
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 7 yorkville, il
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2010-10-09          174467

The 92 main jet with the airbox restrictor removed really wakes up the motor. Throttle response is instant and the motor pulls way faster. The airbox looks resrictive, might try test running without the airbox cover to see if it is really affecting performance. ....

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mrmopar
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 7 yorkville, il
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2010-10-09          174468

I am very happy with the throttle response and the top speed performance of the machine without the airbox restrictor and with the larger main jet. The airbox design is restrictive enough as it is.

....

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americano
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 8 Oregon USA
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2015-03-03          192266

Gator no power with out, Choking EASY FIX NO PARTS NEEDED

Remove Carb , than remove bowl on bottom take care not to loose the float pin, unscrew jet in center of the float , Drill the Jet With #56 metric = about 46 thousands of an inch, blow clean air thru reinstall and but remove rubber thing on end of air filter housing. this is the right fix and you only need a drill # 56 you can get this in the 115 drill set from harbor freight for $30 with 25% off Coupon or $12 online will get you 6 # 56 bit. PS the brace tube inside the high speed hole on the bottom will only go all the way in if the fat part enters last, if you like to clean it up before butting back in get som acetone and soak it all except the rubber gasket don't it will deform it possibly.

Another more complicated option is to get the right fittings and install and adjustable but no one is exactly straight about what kit, its not the one on top you would need to piece mill the bottom, to make that work and order parts that may fit or may not.

John Deere Creates Problems om purpose I think, PS Take Fine Tooth Hacksaw blade and Saw off nub on low speed idle jet adjustment another epa problem solved in 30 seconds. ....


Link:   Carb link below picture

 
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americano
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 8 Oregon USA
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2015-03-03          192267

No, Main Jet 46-47 thousands Drill it with #56 metric bit slowly and easy, I know this works ....

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americano
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 8 Oregon USA
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2015-03-03          192268

no , your incorrect main jet at the in the float bowl sucks gas and the hole is not large enough to start with , so you drill it 46-47 thousands with #56 metric drill.

This makes the gas match the air coming in higher up in there to match it up, than through away the end rubber outside you air cleaner so as not to choke it any more.

Runs like a champ no too; needed.

Don't get bad if your wrong you probably ment right in your own head but put it down wrong here. ....

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bgreen2299
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 4 athens al
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2015-03-24          192406

I want to give mrmopar a hug!!! I've fought this stupid thing for 2 weeks now and have thrown parts at it like i worked at a dealership: new carb (thanks for nothing JD Dealership mech), new fuel pump, new coil assy, new plug, new fuel filter, and the only problem was the restrictor being absent. inherited from my deceased dad-in-law, sure he knew what the problem was, but...

I've ordered the 92 replacement jet and will install soon but for now it's running with just a strip of packing tape covering 80% of the intake hole. now i've got a spare carb and coil:-(

thank you again mopar for taking the time to write the crap up for the benefit of folks you'll probably never meet. ....

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americano
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 8 Oregon USA
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2015-03-24          192407

Drill the jet #56 metric drill , the jet inside the carb bowl, you need no parts just the drill , people don't listen to the correct things in live they always think they need to buy some fix.

Ignorance is no excuse, tired of posting after idiots that wont listen. ....

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