How do ya ll get at your large MMM blades 4 sharpening?: Grooming Mowers Finish Mowers  -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum and Review How do ya ll get at your large MMM blades 4 sharpening?: Grooming Mowers Finish Mowers -- Tractor Attachments Implements 3ph Discussion Forum

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 03-26-2008, 12:31 Post: 152437
gball7

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 How do ya ll get at your large MMM blades 4 sharpening?

All,

I just bought a new Kubota BX2350 with 60" MidMountMower. I have a front end loader, so I could use it, once I've removed the deck from the tractor, to hoist the deck so that I can get the blades off and then use the bench-grinder to sharpen them.

But how do you guys go about sharpening your blades? Is this the only way to do it, or do any of you use other methods?

Thanks in advance,
Mike






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 03-26-2008, 14:06 Post: 152443
Murf

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 How do ya ll get at your large MMM blades 4 sharpening?

We sharpen more blades than I care to think about in a year.

All are done the same way. Blade is clamped in a bench vice, and touched up with a 4.5" hand-held angle grinder. A very simple balance beam scale is then used to ensure they are equally ground and still balanced.

A couple of tips though, never grind them to anything but a 45 angle, and never sharpen them to a knife edge, always leave a little flat spot on the face edge, about 1/32" - 1/16" in thickness depending on how stout the blade is, finish cut or bush hog type.

If the blades are in tough shape, replace them, they're not expensive, and compared to the cost of the damage an out of balance one will do it's cheap insurance.

Best of luck.






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 03-26-2008, 15:39 Post: 152447
auerbach



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 How do ya ll get at your large MMM blades 4 sharpening?

Also, don't let the grinder heat the blade, by keeping it moving and not pressing too hard. If they really need sharpening, take them to a pro. Doesn't cost much. When you see how they look when properly done, you can aim for that yourself next time.






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 03-26-2008, 21:46 Post: 152460
bvance

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 How do ya ll get at your large MMM blades 4 sharpening?

Murf,

Just curious, why should one leave a 1/32 blunt edge?

Brian






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 03-26-2008, 21:54 Post: 152461
bvance

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 How do ya ll get at your large MMM blades 4 sharpening?

GBall,

You asked how one gets at their blades to remove them and you indicated you hoist the deck with your FEL.

I just flip mine over on the shop floor and remove the blades that way. I can do it by myself and I would guess you only have to lift 80 pounds or so as most of the weight still rests on the floor.

It would seem that removing the blades while under a swinging and suspended deck would be a bit awkward if not dangerous. I also find that you have to wedge a block of wood between the blade and the deck frame to keep it from moving for easier wrench torque.

Brian






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 03-26-2008, 22:02 Post: 152462
kwschumm



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 How do ya ll get at your large MMM blades 4 sharpening?

Bvance, my guess is that the blunt edge is less prone to be a source for dings that might start stress cracks. I'm curious what Murf says.






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 03-27-2008, 08:27 Post: 152471
gball7

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 How do ya ll get at your large MMM blades 4 sharpening?

Great points guys.
Bvance, I was thinking of a similar scenario to what you do (flipping the deck over on the shop floor), only using the FEL, while backing the tractor up, to slowly flip the deck upside down. I agree being under a hanging deck, much less only supported by hydraulics that can leak-out/lose pressure, isn't very safe. I suppose though if I just lift under the front edge, as it sounds like you do, that a 250 lb. deck could be flippable without using the FEL. I might need to buy a new center blade as was suggested, as the middle one and the rock both suffered pretty badly when they met. The barbs/malformations on the center blade's leading edges are about 1/4" high and are peppered in several places along the edges. I still feel that all three blades need a touchup the way they came from the factory--- fairly blunt on the edges, but as suggested, I guess it's good to have a blunt leading edge. I'm only running engine @ 2400rpm while mowing during the run-in period (pre-50 hrs.), so I think sharper blades would definitely give me the best cut. Right now I'm missing some grassblades now and then. I think if I were at full tip speed (e.g. 3000rpm) this wouldn't be an issue.
Mike






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 03-27-2008, 10:37 Post: 152474
Murf

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 How do ya ll get at your large MMM blades 4 sharpening?

The blunt edge on the blades is not as important for a finishing mower that is unlikely (supposedly) to hit anything it is not as critical as in the case of say a bush hog type mower, or a commercial cutter that is constantly working, and on different and often unknown sites.

The logic is that no matter what you are cutting, or where, the blades will dull and hit things, even if only the odd piece of stone or gravel that ends up in the grass. If the blade is honed to a sharp edge it creates two problems.

First, it doesn't subject the lead edge to as much heat which takes the temper out of the steel, but even if the blade is ground to a sharp edge without subjecting it to much heat, as with a water-cooled slow moving stone, the thin edge will never stand up to the stresses of doing it's job. The inevitable result is that the lead edge either gets worn away, or chips and breaks off, leaving a blunt edge very quickly. That blunt edge negates any benefit you just got from the sharpening.

Secondly, and most importantly, if you start with a rather blunt edge, the lead edge will last a lot longer, and the longer you can keep the edge as close to the way it's supposed to be, the better. Better performance, better cut, better all around.

It's a difficult concept to get your head around, but even a big nasty blade takes a heck of a beating just cutting grass. Bear in mind, those blades are really moving along. As an example, if we use a 5' bush hog, running at 540 rpm, the blades are spinning at 1.6 times that speed, so they are turning at about 864 rpm, if the blades are 5' in total, they are turning in a circle about 15.71' around the perimeter. That means each blade tip is going to turn at (864rpm x 15.71"Wink yeah right a rate of 13,573 feet per MINUTE. That is 154.8 miles per hour!!

At that speed nearly anything will wear out steel.

Best of luck.






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 03-27-2008, 12:11 Post: 152476
gball7

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 How do ya ll get at your large MMM blades 4 sharpening?

Wow- awesome primer, Murf. So I guess the somewhat blunt edge I felt when feeling under the deck when the tractor was delivered is about right all told. Perhaps I should just buy a new center blade... and keep the even bluntness on all three (replace the messed up center blade).

Anyone have an idea what a new blade for a Kubota BX60MMM deck might cost? I'll probably be calling the dealer soon to find out.






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 03-27-2008, 12:26 Post: 152477
Murf

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 How do ya ll get at your large MMM blades 4 sharpening?

No problem, happy to help.

Dealer, I don't know about pricing, but after market blades usually cost less than the gas to go get them.

If you are looking at replacing the blades, I would highly recommend you go with a high lift mulching blade like the Gator brand units.

They will give you a nicer (IMHO) cut and the difference in performance is unbelievable. The high lift makes the blades of grass stand up to be cut more uniformly, and will re-cut any dry clippings or leaves.

They virtually eliminate any visible clippings if you cut regularly and don't let it get too long.

Best of luck.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Grooming Mowers Finish Mowers Forum

Thread 152437 Filter by Poster:
auerbach 1 | bvance 9 | DennisCTB 3 | gball7 9 | hardwood 2 | kthompson 5 | kwschumm 1 | Murf 9 |




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