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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Diesel Fuel Lubrication Engine Additives Forum

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 07-05-2001, 09:50 Post: 29831
FarmerWannabe



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 Hydraulic Oil Top Off

My hydrualic oil dipstick indicates that my fluid level is low. As the oil looks very clean and I am a novice, I am not ready to change out the oil. I also didn't want to buy a big 5 gallon bucket if I didn't need it yet. The guy in the autoparts store sold me some hydraulic jack oil and said it would work fine. Made sense to me but I wanted to check with the experts. Thanks for your input.






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 07-05-2001, 11:34 Post: 29834
mlmartin



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 Hydraulic Oil Top Off

I would consider using hydraulic jack oil only as an emergency use fluid. Think about the difference in usage. Jack oil is seldom worked enough to get hot and is not a continuous duty fluid. The additives in HyTran or equivalent are there to provide characteristics that are required for good performance in a tractor. I doubt that Jack oil has the same ones.
--
As I said, I'm not against using something in an emergency. I ran out of power steering/power brake fluid in my older Audi. It was on a Sunday, 150 miles from home. They only place I could get mineral oil was a pharmacy. USP mineral oil got me safely home and prevented me from burning out a very expensive pump on the way.
--
Matthew






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 07-05-2001, 12:07 Post: 29835
BillBass



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 Hydraulic Oil Top Off

I would be very careful of adding a fluid that did not match the manufacturer's requirements or match the fluid already in the tractor. You can buy hydraulic fluid in one gallon containers. I periodically buy a gallon for my JD and add a little as it leaks out.






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 07-05-2001, 18:48 Post: 29839
Rick



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 Hydraulic Oil Top Off

if this is a new tractor under warranty and you have a major component failure dont be surprised if they do an oil test to see what type of oil was in the tractor at the time and if it meets specs. This is becomming more common practice all the time. I would not think Jack oil would meet any spec that the manufacturer has.






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 07-06-2001, 05:14 Post: 29849
TomG

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Tractor hydraulic oil is formulated for heat, as mentioned, and also to be low-foaming. It also has to lub TX/DIFF gears on most compacts. Good idea to stick with tractor oil. The trouble with a 5-gallon pail is that it's a pain to get oil into the tractor unless you have a pump (I've got a lever pump that replaces the lid on a 5-gal oil pail). If your dealer doesn't sell oil in smaller containers, they may be willing to sell you a small amount out of their shop.






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 08-06-2001, 08:37 Post: 30678
FarmerWannabe



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I decided to not use the jack oil. Now I just need that receipt!
I may have waited too long. This weekend my first hydraulic hose burst.
After getting a "custom" hose for about $30 I went to add some hydrualic fluid that I was able to purchase in a gallon container. I didn't think I lost that much fluid but after using the entire gallon my dipstick still shows empty.
I have a couple of questions. Do you check the fluid level with the engine cold or hot? Should the loader bucket be up or down? Finally, did my running the system low contirbute to the hose failure? Can I buy a spare hose for less if this happens again? Thanks.






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 08-06-2001, 09:46 Post: 30686
Roger L.



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 Hydraulic Oil Top Off

I'd like to know more about the burst hydraulic hose. As far as I know, there is no way possible for any compact tractor to put out enough hydraulic pressure to burst a standard hydraulic hose or fitting. In all of my years of hydraulics and tractors I've never seen a hose or hose-to-connector joint fail in anything even approaching normal service unless it was preceeded by a lot of mechanical damage to the area.
Regardless of expense, I cannot emphasize how important it is to fix whatever caused the hose failure. It could mean replacing all of the external hoses and fittings. A burst hydraulic hose is so improbable that all of the rest of your questions depend on figuring this out first.






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 08-06-2001, 18:09 Post: 30707
FarmerWannabe



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Roger, you're scaring me. My B7200D has over 1000 hrs. I purchased it used. It looks like some of the other hoses have been replaced as well. I try to keep it inside most of the time, but who knows before I got it. Can't sun and rain break down the rubber over time leading to weakness and ultimately failure? I was hoping to replace the hose, refill the resevoir and move on...






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 08-06-2001, 21:47 Post: 30713
Roger L.



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Farmer, I don't mean to scare you, but maybe we can get some good out of it. Keep in mind that I'm not holding myself out to be an authority on hydraulic hoses and this is all my own opinion. Others may disagree. Nobody would consider me a safety nut, but have hydraulic hoses split is beyond even my rather loose standards....I think that quality hydraulic hoses ought to be good against pressure failure for longer than a B7200 has been around. I'm wondering if yours are made of real hydraulic hose, or maybe they took some super abuse somewhere. I hope that the upshot of this conversation is that you just replace all of the exterior hoses. If you have actually had a hose break, it is too dangerous to trust the rest. I doubt that it would cost more than a few hundred bucks at the outside to do them all. My local hydraulic house will re-use the existing ends and make up new hoses the same day for downright discount prices. This way they are all the right fittings and the right lengths. I'd go directly to the industrial supply or hydraulic repair shop. In my experience, tractor dealers and hardware stores want way too much for their hose.
Now lets take a look at your broken hose. Cut it clean so we can see the cross section. The hose should have a flexible seamless inner fluid-carrying tube surrounded with a layer of high tensile wire braid and then an outer weatherproof layer. These are all separate and distinct layers. Better hoses will have several layers of wire plus fabric braid. We've all seen hoses on which the outer weatherproof covering has all but rotted away and the hose is still carrying the pressure.(But should be replaced). A total failure is rare and usually happens when a heavy shock load is applied to the bucket and the pressure wave backs up inside the hose. The classic case of this happening is when you let a full loader bucket fall freely and then "catching it" with the spool valve. I think we all do this sometimes to settle a load. You just got lucky. I'd go slow until you get new hoses.






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 08-07-2001, 07:08 Post: 30726
TomG

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Roger's advice, as usual, is good. I'll add that most hydraulic hose is identified with various codes. An older SAE system, perhaps still in use, identifies hose in seven categories, from 100R1 to 100R7. These categories cover all agricultural applications, but some categories may not be appropriate. For example, 100R4 is suction line. Replacing all hoses probably is a good idea. It's an especially good idea if the existing hose can't be identified, or if it's not an appropriate category. A dealer or hydraulic shop should be able to identify an appropriate hose. For the rest of the question: I check my hydraulic oil level cold and without screwing the dipstick back in and with everything on the ground or at least low. I don't think hot or cold makes a lot of difference. It does make a big difference to the levels if the loader and 3ph are raised. Hooking a new implement up also takes a big whack out of the level if the cylinders weren't previously charged.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Diesel Fuel Lubrication Engine Additives Forum

Thread 29831 Filter by Poster:
BillBass 1 | FarmerWannabe 4 | mlmartin 1 | Norm 1 | Rick 1 | Roger L. 2 | TomG 2 |




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