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 11-13-2003, 08:57 Post: 68631
jmerritt
2003-11-13 08:57:19
Post: 68631
 Door Casing

I installed new doors on my second floor and am installing new door casing. The problem is that the new casing measures 2 1/4" wide compared to the old casing which measured 2". I have tried to find the casing and profile I like in a 2" width but can't find any. I have a problem with the baseboard and toe strip meeting up with the new casing because of the 1/4" difference in the casing. I would like to not have to rip a 1/4" off the casing but would prefer an easy way to cut 1/4" off the ends of the baseboard and toe strip in place to fit the new casing. Any ideas?






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 11-13-2003, 14:03 Post: 68674
buzst1



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 Door Casing

Bosch makes a powersaw the - FineCut 1640VS that includes a blade fo blind cuts such as on your baseboard. it will leave about 1/8" of base board that you will have to chisel out






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 11-13-2003, 14:34 Post: 68678
AC5ZO

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 Door Casing

I have done something like this with a Sawzall. To keep from having a rough cut on the baseboard, you need to score immediately next to the cut with a utility knife, and it will leave a clean edge. You can use the utility knife to trim any loose wood fibers.






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 11-13-2003, 15:52 Post: 68683
Peters

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Well I looked at this earlier and decided to think about it. I have a Japanese fine tool pull saw that would probably do a fairly good job. I have not cut base boards in place but have cut the casings if I left them a little long for the flooring.
The Japanese style pull saws are available at Home Depot, Sears and Lowes.






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 11-13-2003, 16:19 Post: 68685
AC5ZO

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The Japanese saws are good and will be more delicate and precise than a sawzall. I would still recommend scoring with a utility knife.






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 11-13-2003, 17:52 Post: 68687
Peters

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 Door Casing

The fine pull saw does as nice a cut as I have seen. The other trick is to place a piece of tape over the top before you cut. You need to be careful if it is painted.






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 11-14-2003, 01:09 Post: 68701
harvey



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 Door Casing

There is nothing quite like the discussion of talent on how to trim a board. I am not a finish craftsman so my first choice is sawsall and second is Stihl (a small one).

My thought really is not to rip the new casings but I would run them thru the planer that way, if you are into matching all trim, everything still looks the same.






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 11-14-2003, 07:29 Post: 68712
TomG

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 Door Casing

I imagine it's a pre-hung door and the casing is already assembled. I have a long try-plane left over from my play at hand-made furniture building and also a Record-Ridgeway multi-plane with depth gauges. I'd probably use one or the other to take a quarter inch off the casing or maybe hand chisels to take ends off the baseboards.

For cutting ends off the baseboards I'd use the same techniques as for cutting mortises but I'd cut down from the top first to prevent splitting. Cutting in from the bottom probably is impossible and I'd probably drill a series of small holes along the line near the bottom to prevent splitting and then chisel them smooth when done. The cut wouldn't be quite square but it could be filled, and it would be better than risking a big split. Got to have sharp chisels for this work though. No power tools at all in the work I did and not even sandpaper. Sandpaper is a modern affiliation that obscures the grain.






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 11-14-2003, 08:58 Post: 68720
jmerritt



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 Door Casing

Thanks everyone for your responses. You have definitely given me some ideas as to how to attack this problem. Thanks again.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Carpentry Forum

Thread 68631 Filter by Poster:
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