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 05-16-2001, 14:48 Post: 28262
Chris Cooper



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 Field mower help

I have a bush hog squeeler mower 48", The problem I am having is that it is not mowing (cutting) as well as it used to. It is leaving grass uncut. The area of concern is in the middle of the deck where the rear wheel is.The blades appear to be ok. Pto speed is alright.. Any suggestions? Thanks chris






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 05-17-2001, 09:08 Post: 28293
Murf

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 Field mower help

Sharpen the blades, it's that simple. Also, be sure they are sharpened only on top side, i.e the bottom of the blade should be totally flat, the cutting edge should NOT look like this < it should be a ramp up, not a wedge shape, if that makes sense. If it is not sharpened this way it will not cut correctly. Best of luck.






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 05-17-2001, 20:04 Post: 28313
MarkS



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 Field mower help

Also, if you ever look at a new blade or one that has been professionaly sharpend, there is always a smalee 1/32" TO 1/16" flat at the front of the blade and not a knife edge. This helps the blade maintain a better edge for a longer time. A sharp knife edge rolls over much quicker and easier and a blade with a small flat left on the end.






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 05-20-2001, 13:41 Post: 28385
Peters

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 Field mower help

We do not what the blade to round over therefore we preround the blade? If you are cutting wood or grass you want as sharp a blade as possible.
If I am cutting wood with an axe then the sharper the axe the better. I sharpen it regularly. The sharper it is the less HP it takes me to cut the wood. If I am chopping wood then I use a dull axe as it then does not stick in the block as easily. (Correctly I also use a quick twist of the blade as it strikes the block to prevent sticking and additional splitting action.)
Blades do not come from the manufacture razor sharp as they do not what people assembling the equipment to be cut. Just as you buy a new axe with a dull blade.
The rounding or flattening of the edge speaks to the poor temper in the steel more than the correct method of sharpening. If you dull the edge of the blade then the mower will not cut as well and use more HP. If you are cutting mostly grass/weeds then I keep it as sharp as possible. If I was clearing a wood lot you might want to flatten the edge or sharpen more often.






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 05-20-2001, 22:04 Post: 28399
MarkS



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 Field mower help

I did not say we want to round the blade, a round blade tip does not cut it just pushes grass out of the way. There however sould be a small flat at the tip of the blade that will give two nice 90deg sharp edges. As per the woods Mower manual "Always sharpen both ends at the same time to maintain balance. Follow original sharpening pattern. DO NOT SHARPEN BLADE TO A RAZOR EDGE. Leave from 1/32" to 1/16" blunt edge. Do not sharpen back side" This was taken verbatim from the woods RD 7200 mower manual page 17. There is also a nice picture showing the small flat at the blade tip. Woods has been making quality mowers for a long long time. I think I'll trust them.






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 05-21-2001, 08:26 Post: 28404
JeffM



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 Field mower help

Here is a question related to blade sharpening. Took my new finish mower out this weekend for the first time - cuts great! But sure enough, after an hour and a half of mowing I caught an embedded rock that grew this past winter, as they tend to do with our deep frost. The rock didn't really nick the blade; rather it "rolled" the last 1/4 inch or so of the 2 cutting edges up about 1/4 inch. In general, my thought on this type of damage is to peen this back into shape on an anvil before touching up on the grinder. Sound logical? Is it a good idea? I'm sure this is not the last rock I'll find this summer, no matter how carefully I search them out.






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 05-21-2001, 09:52 Post: 28406
Bird Senter

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 Field mower help

JeffM, does it sound logical? It does to me. I've never done it, but believe I'd have to give it a try.






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 05-22-2001, 05:18 Post: 28429
TomG

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 Field mower help

I think that if it was pounded long enough with a big enough hammer on a heavy enough anvil, it would be cold-worked and about as good as new. Otherwise, it might tend to break where the edge was bent. Maybe somebody who has done some smithing knows how long and how big and heavy.






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 05-24-2001, 02:40 Post: 28512
harvey



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 Field mower help

Morning Jeff That the trouble with something new. It gotta get its first ding or dent in it somehow. I'd try laying the curled up part on the anvil and wail the back of it with a BFH (big fine hammer). I just replaced my 7 year old set on my 72" 3PH Landpride. Lots of rock, sticks and who knows what else been thru them. One was bent from the middle 3/8 of an inch. I could not tell the difference in the cut. I also do not sharpen them much, just enought to take out the nicks and dings. I never put much of an edge on them. I have waaaaay to much mowing to do each weekend so I am not very picky. I never get all those dandy-lions they just seem to pop right back up. My standard is green and flat. By what evermeans. Harvey






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 05-25-2001, 09:18 Post: 28562
JeffM



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Harvey, I have just the BFH for the job. (I worked on a dairy farm as a kid - seems like the first thing I learned is what a BFH is) I'll let you guys know how this turns out. Hopefully get to work on it this holiday weekend.






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Field Mowers Brush Cutters Forum

Thread 28262 Filter by Poster:
Bird Senter 1 | Charles L. Barnes 1 | Chris Cooper 1 | harvey 1 | JeffM 2 | MarkS 2 | Murf 1 | Peters 2 | TomG 1 |




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