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 01-06-2009, 20:12 Post: 159144
candoarms



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Dear friends,

If any of you are interested in knowing the torque specifications for your vehicle repair projects, please ask. I have the complete specs for most vehicles....cars and trucks.

For example, if you're currently replacing the flywheel on your 88 Ford F-150, I can provide you with all torque specifications.

If you are replacing a head on a 91 Chevy Caprice, I can provide you with the bolt tightening sequence pattern, as well as the torque specifications.

I'm always happy to help.

Joel






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 01-06-2009, 23:39 Post: 159148
earthwrks

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Reminds me of the '93 Mitsubishi Spyders that had warped brake rotors that happened before a tightening sequence was discovered.

Joel you're a man in the know; I need a relatively inexpensive replacement for the viscous fan drive on my '03 Ram with a H.O. Cummins. Borg-Warner makes it for Chrysler and lists at nearly $500. Open to suggestions.






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 01-07-2009, 06:56 Post: 159150
candoarms



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Earthwrks,

The Borg Warner stuff I have experience with is nothing but pure junk. I will NEVER own another Borg Warner transfer case. I don't know about their viscous drive units, but if it were up to me I'd be looking for one made by someone else.

Your viscous drive unit is electronically controlled. Depending upon the cooling requirements, the clutch engages accordingly. In other words, the clutch may not fully engage. It is designed to slip as part of its normal operation. The hotter the engine gets, the less slip from the clutch.

I don't like it. It's never a good idea to slip ANY clutch for more than a few seconds. The onboard computer "decides" how much cooling is required, as well as how much the clutch should be allowed to slip. (probably because they needed to meet some government demand regarding fuel economy)

With your truck shut off, and completely cool, you can test your viscous fan drive by hand. Give it a spin. If it spins at least five full revolutions on its own, it's shot.

Before I can provide you with any alternative replacement parts, I'll need to know the exact model of your pickup, as well as the engine VIN code.

Looking forward to helping you if I can.

Joel






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 01-07-2009, 07:24 Post: 159151
candoarms



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Earthwrks,

There's mention made of the possibility that your clutch may be leaking fluid. If this is the case, it won't engage. Slight seepage isn't uncommon, but a leak would certainly prevent it from engaging.

Since these clutches are designed to slip on a routine basis, the excessive heat buildup (like that in a torque converter) could take out the seals, causing a major leak. The fluid drive can't function with the fluid.

If your fan spins freely through 5 full rotations, the fluid is probably gone.

Joel






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 01-07-2009, 08:17 Post: 159156
candoarms



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Earthwrks,

500 bucks, huh?

I have a few part numbers available to me, depending on your exact Engine VIN, but none of them are much over 200 dollars.

2003 DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 5.9L 359cid L6 DIESEL FI Turbo
Dorman Part Number 622003
Price = $206.79 + shipping
Source = rockauto.com

Factory part number = 52028879AD
Dealer Price = $257.00

Torque specs =
Fan to clutch bolts = 17 lb. ft.
Fan/clutch assembly to engine fan hub = 24 lb. ft.

Joel






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 01-07-2009, 08:21 Post: 159157
earthwrks

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I need to look closer but mine which was onnly uiused in '03 is a thermo-controlled viscous fan--no wires but I'll check. '04 uses the electric clutch so I'm wonderin if I could find one (which I've had no luck so far) and retrofit. I'll get the VIN later today.

I can spin it by hand (didn't count), but more disconerting is the sound it makes--like crunching nuts and bolts like a garbage disposer. This is my assessment based on me taking the drive belt off, checking the lower tensioner and pulley, and the removing the top idler and lubing it, checking water pump, power steering, alt.

At idle I can stop the fan by hand (did it carefully) and rotate it backward.






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 01-07-2009, 08:40 Post: 159158
hardwood

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 Torque Specifications for most Makes and Models

Joel; I have a friend whom along with his brother operate a pretty good sized farm, truck, and auto tire outlet. Last time I walked thru their shop there were probably a dozen signs hung where no enployee could say he didn't see it. They all read "All lug bolts or nuts WILL be hand tightened with a torque wrench according to book specs". Seems they ruined too many high dollar wheels and warped too many brake discs with the air wrenches. Frank.






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 01-07-2009, 08:47 Post: 159160
earthwrks

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Frank: I've had the opposite happen where the air supply was bad and the air impact didn't tighten the nuts and the wheel nearly came off driving.






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 01-07-2009, 08:59 Post: 159161
candoarms



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Frank,

Until they make an air wrench that positively displays the applied torque readings, I won't be trusting them.

All bolts are tightened by hand, using a quality torque wrench. I can't tell you how many different styles and types of torque wrenches I have around here, but I find a need for another one nearly every year.

Most specs now call for a degree meter torque wrench. For example, "Tighten the bolt to 87 lb. ft, then turn another 22 degrees." Oh boy. More wrenches.....and a bigger tool box!

Joel






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 01-07-2009, 09:31 Post: 159162
earthwrks

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When I wrote service manuals the drafts were to be approved by the release engineer. We had a feeling the engineers weren't even reading them so we writers put in torque specs that went: Tighten until it breaks then backoff 1/4 turn. (Not)Amazingly they got approved!

Joel, what or how do those colored dumbells work I see at tire shops for torquing wheel nuts? Are they reliable?






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Discussion Boards > Active Subjects > Messages as Posted > Autos -- Car Tires and Maintenance Forum

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