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Dana,
Leave your tires in the wide position. While it is true that a wide tire will pronounce this problem, Tire stance has little to do with what is actually taking place. When you mow, the grass which passes under your tractor tires is trampled down which makes it lie in the direction of travel. In other words, when you look behind your tractor, the grass blades within your tire tracks are leaning over...pointing at you, not straight up in the air like they were before you can along. The rake idea would only drag over top in the same direction, thus pushing the blades in the same direction for yet another pass. 1st=front tires, 2nd rear tires, 3rd rake. Short of having this rake powered to rotate in the opposite direction, which will push the grass blades back into the verticle position..it really wouldn't do much. You mentioned that the right side is affected, which means your cutting blades are rotating in a counter clockwise direction. This is where a rear discharge mower excels because the blades are rotating in opposite directions to eject the grass between the blades. Whereas a side discharge, the blades are rotating in the same direction to eject the grass out one side. The only way around this situation..using a side discharge more like you have, would be to some how re-position the mower off to the left side, in which the path of the right tire would remain unmowed. Relying on your second pass to cut this portion, similar to a haybine. The left side of the blades will be rotating in the proper direction to lift the grass and therefore cut it. Hope this makes sense.. Its kind of hard to explain.

Mid-mount or rear mount finish mower
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 12 Post by MichaelSnyder

John,
You will need some sort of counter balance to offset not only what you are moving/lifting with the loader bucket, but the weight of the loader itself. Be it liquid in the tires or a 3pt counter weight. I like the 3pt counter weight method better,because it allows me to quickly lighten the tractor by about 700lbs if necessary. While I generally don't mow with the 3pt weight attached, I do at least keep the rear wheel weights attached, it definitely does less damage to the turf on hills. Having done it both ways..a few times, with and without the weights... The results are visually obvious. Weights are hills belong together. As far as the tractor being lighter...I think its good. Its much easier to add weight than it is to remove.

balast or not
Parts and Repair
Replies 4 Post by MichaelSnyder

Blame Eve, She ate the fruit, then............

Poison Ivy
Garden and Landscape
Replies 22 Post by MichaelSnyder

Rob,
Following whats been said, You didn't mention how much land you own or take care of. We are all potentially missing a large chunk of your equation when giving a size recommendation. Secondly, it would be beneficial to all of us to know what size trailer you use or intend to use to haul firewood. If you are planning to use one of those dinky metal trailers you find at Home Depot or Sears Hardware....you might as well go for a Honda or Yamaha 4x4 4-wheeler and buy a blade that pivots in the middle to create a V plow. They probably come standard with a hitch and would handle stomping around in the forest a whole lot better than a lawn tractor. After the work is done...you have something to play with. Not to mention that it'll fit on a pick-up. My disabled uncle uses his as an outdoor wheelchair and plows his 1/4 mile dirt driveway with it. He even uses it to tow empty hay wagons back to the field. Trust me..its a VERY capable setup. The thing would be unstoppable in snow with chains. Taking this route would also be less expensive. BUT if your sold on a compact and your using a decent sized and weight able trailer, I would venture along the Kubota BX?/B2100, JD 4100, NH TC21 path. I don't mean to sound as if I'm against a compact, just wouldn't want to see you shell out alot of money for something a 4-whr could do.

Compact Tractor
Operating and Attachments
Replies 12 Post by MichaelSnyder

I don't think so.. We have 2 acres, and if the 2710 would have been available when we purchased our 4100... We just mighta hada 2710 for our 2 acres. Feel any better.

Kubota B2910 - Overkill
Operating and Attachments
Replies 6 Post by MichaelSnyder

Frank,
I'm with you on this one. My neighbor also mows his hill with FEL attached for the same reasoning. Problem I see in all of this is that the bucket weighs very little compared to the rest of the loader...which is well above the center of gravity. I think its a false security. Anything located above your rear axle is a liability in this situation.

Stability on Slopes
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 6 Post by MichaelSnyder

$Droz, I'm a little confused after reading your post. Hope I'm not being over sensitive here.. Your last statement makes it sound like only rich people's lives are "worth" having it done "right". Maybe I'm missing something here, but this is just like the guys who I ride motorcycle with. Some of them act like they are sooooo poor they can't afford the phone bill yet alone $500-$1,000 in personal safety gear (Helmet,leather jacket,pants,gloves). Yet they just laid down $7k-12K for a new sport bike??? NOT to mention...a sport bike isn't a NECESSITY but rather a NICETY! I also cannot imagine anyone here is prying pennies off the floor to buy food. If we can afford convenience items, we can afford a fraction more to protect the most valuable thing we've got. Ourselves, otherwise...what does any of this matter.$ ROPS Question
Massey Ferguson Tractors
Replies 14 Post by MichaelSnyder

Eddie,
My father and I share a 4' pull behind core aireator made by Trac-Vac. I think he paid about $400 or so. I have seen cheaper ones, but after my first use..I am glad we didn't go that route. We used WELL over 250lbs-300lbs of weight in order to push the core tines 3"-4" into the soil. Actually, we could have used more...some spots were hard enough that the core tines only penetrated about 1"-2"...if that much. After using his and looking at a few cheaper units, needing that kind of weight would probably have caused one of those lesser units to bend or break under the weight. Naturally, aireating after a good soaking rain will help the tines go deeper...easier. Secondly, don't bother getting getting your little 10-12hp lawn mower out for this task. (From the voice of experience with a 12hp AC). My father's Kubota G1800 (16hp) lawn tractor struggled to keep enough traction necessary to pull it. Even my 4100 with rear weights needed 4wd in a few spots to keep the rear tires from spinning. When those tines are digging 3"-4" deep, its not the easiest thing to pull around.

Aerators - core or plug
Operating and Attachments
Replies 5 Post by MichaelSnyder

Karla,
Being fairly new to the "compact" arena as well. We decided to buy a JD 4100 over the Kubota B series a year ago. We stayed away from NH due to dealer location. We studied each brand in question for months. Personally, I think both are excellent units and each has its own set of "better" features and functions. NH appears to have the most "convenient" and creature comfort stuff, JD's in the Middle and Kub has more of an industrial layout. Again, OMO. One thing I really like about Kubota is that they put different HP motors in basically the same platform. 2710-2910, B1700,B2100 & B2400, etc...
I would be nice to have the 4100 with a 26hp option.. Maybe call it the 4110??
Anyway, I think you did fine. Besides, you'll love how easy the loader comes on and off.

4200 HST
John Deere Tractors
Replies 9 Post by MichaelSnyder

John,
Don't quote me on this one, but I do remember $100 dollar documentation fee because we financed it through JD. I also thought it was rediculous at the time but I think like buying most large expensive items, once you are at that point it is doubtful you will back out because of a $100 or $200 fee. And they know it!!

JD4100HST vs NH21D
John Deere Tractors
Replies 10 Post by MichaelSnyder

Sam,
That price also sounds fair to me, assuming it truely was cared for. Your question of which mower is better depends on you. The 60" will obviously cut more grass per pass, but will be a little more prone to scalp than the 54". This is true with any mower as deck size increases. We needed the 54" to fit between our fence and a few of our mature trees. My advice is to stay away from one of those lesser expensive aftermarket mowers. The JD mower may be more expensive but when it comes time to installation & removal, you'll save yourself alot of headaches. I mention this because you have a loader. So far, I've taken my mower deck off about 10 to 20 times per year for loader work. In the beginning I tried using it with the deck attached, and still do for "certain" things, but soon found using the loader with the mower attached is asking for trouble. Guys here on the CTB said it, but I didn't listen, well now I'm part of the "been there, done that" club. The risk of damaging the deck isn't worth the 5 minutes it takes to remove it. OMO. Happy Tractoring.

JD 4100 with Loader
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by MichaelSnyder

I'll attempt to put my struggle in 3000 characters or less.. For those of you who remember, we settled on a JD4100 as a "Do it all unit". Mowing, loader, ect. Well, a year later I'm startin' to feel as if I we bought "too small". I feel as if I've outgrown the 4100's abilities already. Mostly while using the loader. Kind of a shame because the unit is a wonderful, easy to use piece of machinery. As many of you know, we just finished overseeding & re-seeding much of our 2 acre yard. Comprised of 1 acre wide open grass, 1 acre full of trees (Thinned forest) complemented by an old fashioned wooden post fence all around. Which by the way, the 4100 sat idle because it wasn't big enough to handle a 3pt overseeder. OK, we've climbed that hurdle. Next hurdle, much of the soil is still soft, so I've held off selling our 12hp garden tractor till everything is established enough to handle the weight and turns of the 4100. So it looks like the 4100 sits idle for most of the summer, depending upon rain fall. In doing so, I've also come to the realization that "I" prefer to cut the lawn in a back n' forth direction, similar to a baseball field. This is supposed to be better for the grass,looks better,etc...??. Doing this with any type of tractor is a "task" to say the least, especially in the wooded area. Well.. between my feeling of outgrowing the 4100, and wondering if a 0 radius mower would be the answer ....I'm busting at the seams because I'm afraid to tell the little lady that I may already want to sell the 4100 for a larger unit and a 0 radius mower!!! Half of me is torn knowing many guys around me would kill to be in my shoes. Yet here I am... wanting more. Going further, a year ago we didn't care for the B line-up (B2100), so we went JD. Yet now..I'm really curious about a B2710 or TC29-33, especially after all the good stuff I've read about em. But I'm worried about lossing my shirt on our next to new JD 4100 for a Kub/NH. I really could use some advice here from guys who understand my pain. Maybe I just need a little sense knocked into me and learn to be satisfied with what I have.

Very confused and in need of help
Operating and Attachments
Replies 11 Post by MichaelSnyder

Your dealer is correct about the 3pt overseeder. Having done this task about two weeks ago to our yard, I can tell you that rental places will laugh at you if your tractor is below 27-30 HP. So..our 20HP 4100 sat idle. While it did make me wonder if I bought "too small". I know a larger unit would be cumbersome and simply too large for many areas of our property. I think the bigger question here is what do I expect from the unit, and what would be "nice" to accomplish if possible. Obviously this is all dependent upon your property layout, but in our situation...even the 4100 seems big at times. Where is that happy medium in size? IMHO, the BX sounds small for you. Secondly, as time passes and your experience increases, you will attempt larger projects you didn't even consider prior to owning a Compact. Hope I'm being reasonable here and not simply expressing my struggle at the moment..

Kubot BX are dealers Pushing over B series
Kubota Tractors
Replies 7 Post by MichaelSnyder

From Alta Vista, starting typing anything from tractors, Implements to Farming. Quite a few links popped up, pointing to the CTB. Been here ever since..

Survey How Did You Find the CTB
Website Operations Howto
Replies 21 Post by MichaelSnyder

Droz,
I'm not sure what you mean?? Something like a Ballast box or broadcast spreader always requires full support. When using something like a rear blade...you may or maynot want 100% of the weight to be placed on the implement. Many times I've adjusted the 3pt level to only allow the blade to lightly scrape the surface. Other times I want it to dig in. Not sure this answers your question.....

3 point hitches
John Deere Tractors
Replies 12 Post by MichaelSnyder

Paul,
Just rented a push style overseeder made by Bluebird. Seemed to be one of the better units I've seen. The rental place had 100% Landpride 3pt pull-behind units. As for the push style, 75% Bluebird, and 25%....I can't remember the name, but they where an aqua green color. Also looked very durable. I've seen people using some cheap looking units, and these did not fit that category. I am under the impression that the 3pt units require a minimum of 27 or 30hp.

Can anyone recommend a good overseeder
Garden and Landscape
Replies 10 Post by MichaelSnyder

Danny,
Almost the same situation as Cutter. Bought our 4100 with R4's and swapped em for Turfs. The R4's are definitely a compromise on turf, but are very durable and rugged. The R4's seem indestructable, hardly wear. and handle the loader's weight with ease. I can not say the same for the Turfs. But...Mowing accounts for about 80% of our uses, which they do very well. So the turfs seemed to be the logical choice. I too had an agreement with our dealer to swap the tires/rims. Again, we went with Turfs, but I really liked the R4's.

turf or industrial tires for mowing
New Holland Tractors
Replies 6 Post by MichaelSnyder

Todd,
Based upon what you described, I think it would make sense to purchase a 3pt broadcast spreader and maybe a sprayer. Farm & Home has a decent unit for around $300. As far as the turf situation, I don't live in TX or have Bermuda grass, but I don't think fertilizer will be your answer. Remember, the weeds will benefit from the fertilizer as well. Sounds like you need to spray for weeds as a primary step to allow the grass to take over. Unfortunately, I would assume this means your horses will be Pasture-less for some period of time. If possible, you may consider sectioning the pasture with temporary fence in order to spray the sectioned area without worry of your horses getting sick. Obviously this won't allow for a once and done application, but it may be your safest bet. I would also talk to someone where you would buy the spray to see what they recommend for your situation. The fact that you have to mow the pasture sounds like you have a decent amount of acreage per horse. Seems most guys don't follow the maximum of 1 horse per acre rule. Or that seems to be the rule here in Eastern PA. Lots a luck..

Bermuda Fertilizer for Horse Pasture
John Deere Tractors
Replies 3 Post by MichaelSnyder

Eddie,
FYI: Seems PA is getting warmer every year. While it is rare for us to hit 100 degrees, it is no longer uncommon to see 90-95 degrees in July/Aug. Just had to mention that because everyone in the south thinks our summer temperatures only reach the 80's. BTY: having done a bit of work in Guymon, OK. I now understand the second reason its called the pan handle, its temperature is well matched for its reference..

Best Type of Grass Seed
Garden and Landscape
Replies 9 Post by MichaelSnyder

Klay,
Your not the first to spot this sight. I've seen it quite a few times as well. OMO, and based strictly from having both R4s and Turfs on our 4100, the front turfs and R4s are almost identical in diameter. It is ok for fronts to slightly overdrive the rears, but not vise vera. This may be a problem.. Because the R4s are very rigid and therefore vary little in size. A Turf tires diameter can be altered slightly through air pressure. In this situation, the rears may be overdriving the fronts. NOW.. To be the devil's advocate. I can tell you right now my fronts will be bald long before my rears are even so much as half worn.
Between turning, loader use and what must be about 2-3 revolutions up front for every revolution of the rears.

Lastly, the unit is fairly light compared to farm tractors, and doubtful its drivetrain has seen stresses associated with pulling a plow, harrow, etc.
The only advantage, is an R4s higher weight rating and wear charactoristics....minus the cost of buying a rear set of rims and tires.
This cost "may" show up somewhere else down the road...
Clear as mud...right?? Seriously, I don't know what to tell you...

Mismatched tires R4 on front and turf on rear
Parts and Repair
Replies 3 Post by MichaelSnyder