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I normally won't lend it to anyone .. not the new one or the old ones... I will normally suggest that I can assist them when I have time.

Do you lend your tractor
Parts and Repair
Replies 33 Post by TC33

One thing about a wider mower is that the overhang works well in certain situations. Near drop offs is a good place, I don't like to get too close to an edge so the overhang helps. Underbushes, fence lines..

size finish mower for 4110 hydro
John Deere Tractors
Replies 7 Post by tc33

I have not seen the newest models but you are well advised to mount whatever you want to buy on the tractor first to make sure it fits. My one-year-old 4100 has a heavy angled seat/rops bracket that interfered with the operation of my Gearmore PHD. I had to have a welding shop redesign the boom arm at that end so that I could raise and lower it without hitting the bracket.

post hole digger for 4110 hydro
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by DRankin

I've replaced a couple of clutches on some MF's and one on a Fergy TO20. I can't recall any tractor that doesn't require splitting to replace the clutch, not that there aren't any I just haven't ran across them. It is a job that you need to be very careful in doing because as Tom stated the front end can and will tilt on the axle. The way we did it was to use an "A" frame turned lengthwise of the tractor. We set the legs of the frame in front of the rear wheels and used a come-a-long across the top of the frame to support it. We then chocked the front end against the axle, strapped it down and supported the front end with a come-a-long hooked on the trolley so we could separate the halves.

I used a socket and extension to align the clutch. I have heard of people using broom sticks and many other things. I have also used an alignment tool found at most parts stores. The alignment tool would be better because the splines would line up better using it.

ford 12004x4 deisel
Parts and Repair
Replies 3 Post by DavidJ

I don't remember all the quotes but around $18,600 is what I seem to remember with a loader.
I just bought a TC40D. My best price BEFORE I went to my local dealer was $19,450.00 with 4wd, 16LA FEL w/ HD bucket, R-4, rear work light.
Went to my local dealer and asked him to beat it but not in price. I asked for wheel weights and a grille guard. He did and agreed to weld hooks on the bucket. Then I added a cutter blade for the bucket, ($150.00) canopy ($450??) and a 918H 72" Flail mower ($2865.00) There is a 5% dealer discount from NH when you buy any implement with the purchase of a tractor.
There is also a $1050.00 dealer discount from NH on the tractor that almost every dealer passes on to be competitive.
Most of my qoutes came in from $20,400.00 to $20,900.00 before additions. My dealer isn't thrilled with the close margin but appreciated the fact that I allowed him to decide if he wanted to sell it to me. (1/2 of something is better than all of nothing) By me adding options after the sale made it easier on him and me also. It helps too that we have had a working relationship over 7 years and it was a cash deal. (they are more than just sell tractors) Be patient and don't be afraid to shop. It saved me a grand! Good Luck!

TC40 price
New Holland Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Dan G.

I have posted on this before, but yeah, I have had the same problem with my 430 loader. First round under warranty, the dealer replaced all four cylinders on my loader. Second round out of warranty, I pulled the cylinders off and carried them to a hydraulic shop. The man at the shop told me JD used very low quality parts in their cylinders. He done some mods internally to the cylinder and told me that should take care of all my problems. Hopefully, this will last. I averaged about 200 tractor hours between round one and two. Granted all of those hours I had not been using the loader. Time will tell if the rebuild job will hold. BTW, he rebuilt them for $80 each.

Poor Design on the John Deere 430 Loader
John Deere Tractors
Replies 6 Post by Ken Butner

Found out today that there is a KIOTI dealer just 12 miles away. With no perceived local support, I didn't consider KIOTI until now, so I just had to drop in and take a closer look.

I have to say I was quite impressed with the LB1914. As I mentioned to the dealer, I have my mowing needs met with an Exmark Commercial mower, so this opens some other options for a tractor.

Most of my 25 acres is wooded, 3 or so of it is mowable. That leaves a 640' driveway to take care of (grading/snow removal) along with landscaping, wood hauling, trailblazing, garden tilling and countless other projects I've yet to imagine.

KIOTI became a contender, because I no longer need to be concerned with a HYDROSTAT transmission, or a MMM. What impressed me is the weight of the unit, just shy of a ton. Also the hydraulics seem to be oriented towards serious work. It appears that the LB1914 could get a fair amount of work done.

Does anyone here have real world experience with the LB1914? Is it as good as it appears? What are it's shortcomings? I'm a little concerned with the 17.5 PTO HP. However, the dealer said that it would run a tiller with no trouble. He also said that he has personally sold over a hundred of these in the area.

It appears that the LB1914 is more comparable to the Kubota 7500 than the BX2200. I think the other ORANGE choice is fine, but the KIOTI (at least initially) seems to be a bit stouter.
Don't know how that translates to real world longevity, but extra weight is appealing to me.

I also looked seriously at the LK3054. It appears to be yet another fine option. Not sure on how maneuverable this would be? The dealer mentioned that either tractor has a very tight turning radius.

I sort of overlooked the LK2554 because of it's lack of a shuttleshift. Is this a BIG omission, or is it a non-issue? This tractor is priced not too much higher than the LB1914.

Initially, I'm more focused on the LB1914. However, I'm also open to considering it's larger brothers. I guess I'm drawn to the LB1914's size as it relates to maneuverability, storage etc.

Does anyone know if the LB and LK series will be replaced soon? It appears that the DK line is expanding downward.

Anyway, sorry for the long winded post, but I'm ramping up on my KIOTI knowledge.

Kevin Barrett
Lowell, MI

LB1914 LK2554 LK3054
Kioti Tractors
Replies 4 Post by Kevin Barrett in MI

Tom I do not remember saying that the fluid takes less power to rotate than cast weights. When engaging the clutch it takes more strain on it to get the larger diameter weight mass rolling. That statement might be good for another new thread. The fact that the calcium or other type of fluid is going to slow the reaction time of the tire to flex to the ground contours will limit traction. The mess of working with the liquids is the other part that hurts. Cast weight is the ideal way to go if at all possible. The last thing to remember, the lighter that you can do the job means, less wear, less fuel burnt, less breakage. Which means longer life, more econmical life and happy owners. We like to see 110 to 120 pounds per horsepower for maximnum performance and longevity. The more weight that you put on the tractor the less it can pull as you will be useing the available horsepower to move the tractor not the implement. Many here are more concerned with loader work and little as far as tillage work but the same factors apply. It is hard to set up everyones applications with the differences of situations but there are certain goals on weighting that you still try to maintain and get the job done. One thing that every owner should do is to see if the tires are touching the ground all the way across the tread surface. This will give better ride as well as add traction.

Weights verse filled tires
New Holland Tractors
Replies 15 Post by Art White

Hi all. The time has come to sell my 1998 JD 4100. It is a Gear model with 410 loader, R4 tires, and 413 rotary cutter. It has 218 hours on it and runs very well. Any idea on the price? Thanks, Kevin (from New Hampshire)

Time to sell my 4100 Gear
John Deere Tractors
Replies 1 Post by Kevin

I think I'd try the box scarifier if I didn't have anything else that was mentioned. There’s always the chance of breaking something or that it just doesn’t work, but presumably implements are designed for use in ‘general conditions.’ For myself, I wouldn’t be too happy with the idea that I bought implements and then ended up not using them because they might break. The scarifies are there to be used, but you should recognize that if all scarifiers were fully extended then the tractor probably wouldn’t be able to pull the box very fast. No more stress than normal operation should be placed on a single scarifier at comparable ground speeds.

I'd use the most central scarifier and go very slow. My turf tires have less traction than ags, so I also have less change of breaking something as long as the ground speed is slow. However, the risks of this or any other task should be understood. In addition to the possibility of breaking the box or tractor, I recently heard of scarifiers breaking rocks and throwing chips toward the tractor—just a story though.

I'm not sure that the scarifiers on mine leave much of an open trench but I don't think I've ever used them fully extended either and the soil is very sandy here. I don’t believe that electrical codes apply to low-voltage systems where I am but I’d check to be certain.

Digging small trench
Operating and Attachments
Replies 10 Post by TomG

I'm assuming that blue oil smoke is what there is rather than gray smoke that would indicate a different problem.

I wonder if the smoke comes from the exhaust pipe, crankcase breather or both. Generally, you to burn more oil under heavy loads if the rings are bad and some of the smoke should be blow-by from the crankcase breather.

If it's burning oil at lower rpm's and light loads, it sounds more like my Ford valve guide problem. I've heard of diesel engines where an oil feed line to the rocker arm was disconnected, which put a lot of oil on top of the head. I've also heard of engines where an oil galley plug on the end of the rocker arm came out with the same results. I didn't hear if it was oil smoke or low oil-pressure that pointed to the problems, but probably both would be present. As noted, the oil consumption might be considered within a normal range. If it’s not, at 750-hours I would expect some sort of part failure rather than engine wear that would required re-building.

Occasionally you hear of stuck, or stacked rings that produce oil smoke and the problem clears after some use and possible with the assistance of an oil additive. However, blow-by usually would be present with this sort of problem.

1070 burning too much oil
John Deere Tractors
Replies 16 Post by TomG

A manual would have a series of about a half-dozen tests for the charging system. You can't really tell for certain what's going on without running the formal tests. Unfortunately many of the tests use a carbon pile to place loads on the system around the max capacity of the alternator. Most people don’t have a load, but a less formal alternative for cars is to just turn on all the accessories. Most tractors don't have enough accessories except for ones with a bunch of work lights.

Without a manual, I'd use a hydrometer to test the battery capacity and then check the DC voltage at the battery. With a reasonable charged battery the DC voltage should be 14 - 15V and shouldn’t change much with engine RPM on most systems. If the battery’s OK and the voltage is there, I'd do as Art says and take the alternator to a shop, and I might replace the regulator on general principal The rectifier bridge seems a likely candidate, because I believe semi-conductors tend to break down easier when they’re warm.

Of course, all that could be done and the problem still could be a ring continuity problem. In my own case, I never thought my battery was coming quite up to full charge. I found the alternator output terminal was still coated with factory blue paint that probably had been there for 15-years. I'm not certain, but I believe that burnishing the contacts improved the charging. Anyway, anything resistive in the alternator or regulator circuits can interfere with the charging system.

B7200 Charging Problem
Kubota Tractors
Replies 5 Post by TomG

2 additions to Kay's recommendation - 1) seal all 6 edges before installation. If you seal the siding agfter it is up the side towards the house is going to dry faster than the outside surface and wide boards will cup and curl. 2) use screws not nails.

Hemlock wood
Home Improvement
Replies 3 Post by JJT

My iseki ts 1700 is leaking hyd fluid around
the 3 point control lever its an o ring and
manual said you can replace it outside the
case any one ever did this

Leaking hyd fluid
Other Tractor Brands
Replies 1 Post by Earl

> David, Thanks for replying, I'll try to provide more
> info.

> #1.The well is natural

> #2 The well would be approximately 200'above my cabin
> location. Unfortunately, I'll need to pipe the water
> horizontally about 300' across the hill.Is this possible?

It is certainly possible. The only constraint is to never let the pipe rise above the outlet point.

If you have a 200' difference in level you're going to have about 85 psig water pressure at the cabin. You may need a regulator to lower the pressure if you run the piping directly to the cabin from the spring.

What I would suggest, if convienient, is to locate a holding tank about 115' above the cabin with a float valve on the inlet to keep it full. That will give you about 50 psig at the cabin. I would use 1" or larger piping.

> #3. I would like to use the water for washing-showering
> and possibly for drinking,although I'll need to have
> the Health dept.test it for bacteria...

That sounds good if you can get the health dept to accept it.

>#4. The minerals that may be present shouldn't be a
> problem.

> Would the container have the bottom partially removed?

No, just dig down in front of the spring and sink the collector in there so the water will flow into it.

>Is it the gravity pressure of the water from higher on
> the hill that fills the tank?

Yes.

> Is it necessary to filter the water before it enters
> the tank with sand or possibly gravel?

It might be a good idea, though usually not necessary.

> Is it best to place the water outlet from the containment > vessel in the middle of the water level within the vessel?

I would say lower third. but it depends on your site.

Artesian Well
Home Improvement
Replies 8 Post by DavidJ

I live in the Texas hill country and have a 4100. There is very little soil and mainly rock. I have a box blade with chiesels and have extended them fully to chiesel it up. The 4100 NEVER misses a beat. TOTALLY just rips up the earth, rock and all. Plenty of POWER!

4100 4110 4010 vs B7500
John Deere Tractors
Replies 14 Post by Better Late Than Nev

I have a 6' rotary cutter. I do have a Dremel tool but I don't think I would try to sharpen the blades with it. The first time I sharpened them, I took them off and used a bench grinder. After that, I bought an angle grinder. My 3pt lifts the deck high enough I can reach under and sharpen the blades. If I want to really work on them, I just hook a chain to the deck and my FEL and raise it up so that it is standing on it's side. Then I can sharpen with ease.
I do put a good edge on mine when I plan on mowing only grass. If I plan to cut brush, then I don't worry about it.

Sharpening blades
Mowers Field and Finish
Replies 5 Post by BillBass

The tractor has 29 pto horsepower and sounds to be in average condition for one in that vintage. The book value for the northeast is higher than what you are paying so my thoughts are it's a good deal for you.

Kubota 355 SS 4WD
Kubota Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Art White

I am interested in buying a finish mower for my L3010. Does anyone have recommendations about a belly mower versus a rear mower? What prices should I expect to pay?

clanski@netsync.net

Finish Mower for L3010
Kubota Tractors
Replies 1 Post by ChrisL

Besides having a low flow pump , the YM155 has a pressure system (1450 lb I think). A front mount pump was an option for the Johnson & Yanmar loaders on a YM155

Yanmar 155D
Yanmar Tractors
Replies 4 Post by lsheaffer