I'm Pete by the way, registered on here when I bought my New Holland TC40D. I joined this place because this forum isn't compromised by "my gun is bigger than yours" types of people. Right off the bat, I like all your tractors, I could care less what brand it is. In my case I looked at JD, K, NH, I liked them all. The deciding factor was price.
I got a mint condition, garage kept unit, 270 hours, Bush Hog loader, Woods finisher, Hydro. Not a speck of dirt on it.
Here's where I'm embarrassed , I haven't driven a tractor since I was 18. I'm now 39
We had a really nice Ford 1500 on our farm, I loved it. We kept it in perfect condition. Sadly, back then, our farm got into a legal dispute and as of last year, we don't have it anymore.
I decided to start new memories.
I'm used to driving a tractor with two shifters. I got a little demonstration regarding the hydro and feel somewhat comfortable running the unit but I have NO IDEA how to maintain it. The hydro is something new to me, I've never cared for a loader either.
If you guys would be kind enough to run me through a refresher course, it would be most appreciated, the tractor is coming tomorrow. The person I hired to ship it, sent me a picture from his camera phone.
Thanks in advance, I've enjoyed reading your posts on here, some of you are HYSTERICAL! (in a good way)
Pics Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Moravia, NY Posts: 1446
re: Got Some Questions For You Veteran Tractor Owners
Welcome Pete
I to had a 1500 for 13 years. Traded for a JD.
Lots of Ford hydro guys here. The only thing I know about hydro is do not treat the pedals like a gas pedal. ie: if tractor starts to bogg down let up on the pedal.
Go to dealer and order the operator manual and read it it will have 90% of what you'll need to know to operate and maintain.
re: Got Some Questions For You Veteran Tractor Owners
A NH hydro is much easier to drive than a gear, and might I say more enjoyable especially for loader work and grass cutting. I suggest reading the manual (which BTW is not helpful but gives the location of the conrols) and just get some seat-time. After about 15 minutes you'll be flying around the yard. If my 3-year-old niece can drive mine sitting on my lap---hopefully you can---errr.... not sit on my lap!
Pics Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada Posts: 6387
re: Got Some Questions For You Veteran Tractor Owners
Welcome Pete.
As Harvey already mentioned, the big one with a hydro is to not lug the engine, it's really tough on the whole system.
It's better to keep the rev's up a little and let the hydro power do it's job.
Past that, the other big caution is SAFETY!!! Especially if you're not familiar with a loader-equipped tractor. As you may recall, the front axle on a tractor pivots to keep all 4 wheels on the ground. That also however means if you pick up a load on uneven ground, or travel across uneven ground with a load too high, or pick up a load that isn't balanced properly, it could tip the machine over. That's not such a good thing.
Remember, the only 'dumb question' is the one you don't ask.
re: Got Some Questions For You Veteran Tractor Owners
As far as lugging the engine, at least with NH hydros, you'll feel the engine lugging by how much effort it takes to press on the pedal; the harder it is to push on the pedal indicates you're in the wrong gear range (numerically too high). Normally it takes light pressure to locomote. And hydros don't need to use service brakes or clutching or down shifting when stopping---that's all controlled nicely by the hydro pedal (under normal conditions). I rarely use brakes; the clutch in an emergency with brakes or when using the PTO.
The SupereSteer takes a few minutes to get used to it. But once you you do it becomes transparent.
re: Got Some Questions For You Veteran Tractor Owners
Haunter, welcome to the crowd.
Ok now if you want some hysterical, me and EW can CALMLY dicuss,(again), why a gear drive will show his hydro how to get work done.
I'd better stop with that said.
Frank.
Pics Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Northern Michigan Posts: 1327
re: Got Some Questions For You Veteran Tractor Owners
Welcome to TP:
First off, I'd recommend that you unfold them ROPS. Like Murf said, Safety is #1. Second, when transporting a tractor, I like to strap from the outside of the trailer toward the center of the tractor both front and back further back and forward of the tractor. That way, it is doing a wedge in all positions; (front,back,righ,left).
Doing from outside to outside as you have done would allow your tractor to bounce sideways while loaded (maybe 3 to 6". Likewise, if somebody T-bones you, the tractor could shift. My preferred method makes a tighter hold-down.
When using your brush hog, your engine rpm should be when it says 540 PTO rpm on the tach.
Get yourself a paint pen (I usually use white). Put your loader (FEL) down and tilt the bucket so it is flush or ever so lightly digging. On the right side is a shaft protuding through a piece of tubing. With the paint pen put a circle around the top of the tube. Let it dry. Now every time you use your loader and want to dig into a pile of something or just skim the dirt, you automatically know where flush or just a slight digging position is!
High range is for traveling from point A to B, light duty mowing, and light pushing of snow. Mid-range is for heavier duty brush hogging, loader use when digging into a pile of dirt/stone. Low range is for pulling stumps, heavy duty ripping of soil, etc.
re: Got Some Questions For You Veteran Tractor Owners
Pete you are very right there are some great people here who will help any way they can. At same time there is some good ribbing as I learned years ago only happens with friends.
When it comes to hooking and unhooking your mowers keep your hands safe. I don't like to handle the pto when the tractor is running. Be sure you have the shaft locked on before leaving it. Keep the latch clean and the splines with light coat of grease or such on it. Helps a lot. I try to keep a sleeve over the male end when not connected. Be sure to keep the pto shafts greased.
Engine RPMS have been mentioned but when it comes to mowing remember the engine rpms must be there to get the blade speed and the travel speed is transmission job, not the engine.
One other warning on the hydo transmission, assuming you are married...wifes like that size tractor with the hydro transmission. Let your wife use it a time or two even helping you hook or unhook something and you may find yourself looking for a second machine. Not necessary a bad thing. You know, the couple who mows together deal. For rough cut mowing (many call that Bush hogging) I really like the hydo over gear.
Pics Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: NW Oregon Posts: 5550
re: Got Some Questions For You Veteran Tractor Owners
Moisture in fuel = bad. Fill the tank at the end of each day to minimize condensation and using a good fuel conditioner like Power Service will help disperse what does get in.
Cold weather and diesel fuel = bad. Use a fuel conditioner with anti gel to keep the fuel in a liquid state during cold weather.
Moisture is bad on joints so it's a good idea to grease the zerk fittings at the end of each day rather than the start of a new day to minimize air pockets, esp. if parking outside.
With a new used machine, if you do not *know* the maintenance that has been done it would be wise to change all fluids and filters to get it on a regular schedule. Also, tighten the bolts to spec on arrival and on a regular basis thereafter.
It would also be a good idea to keep the battery on a maintenance charger if you don't use the tractor at least every two weeks. That will prolong its life and let you start it on a cold morning when there's snow to move.