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New To The CUT (2305)
Hi Im new to the forum, as well as the CUT class of machines. I just placed the order yesterday for my 2305 with a belly mower and front mount snow blower. I have other machines, but i was wondering will i really need tire chains in the winter on this machine with the 4WD?
I'm sure i will have more questions but i will have to wait till they deliver it first.
Thanks Ken
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| | re: New To The CUT (2305)
As far as tire chains and whether you'll need them can change with the weather and temperature--literally. You may need them if it's icy out, but if it warms up just a few degrees and you're down to exposed dirt or pavement, likely no. And it depends on the type of tires you're using--turfs are known for being better in some, but not all snow and especially on ice. I use strictly R-4 industrials on my stuff. Since you're using a snow blower, you won't be pushing per se material so traction isn't a priority--unless you have hills or inclines.
If you're using the chains for traction on ice that has been plowed, you might consider using a northern off-roader's trick (ice racing) and that is using 1/2" hex-head sheet metal screws--one in each lug. A better product is a screw that looks like a sheet metal screw but is hard-plated and hardened and the head is dished out leaving two sharp biting edges. A cordless drill and 5/16" bit is all you need to install and remove them.
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| re: New To The CUT (2305)
First off, welcome to the board Ken!
As Jeff (earthwerks) hinted at already, traction is more to do with conditions than anything else. Turf tires may be great on ice, but they don't do much for deep snow. Industrials are ok in wet snow, but get worse fast as the temperatures drop, forget about ice with them.
The bottom line is you will have to do a little experimenting with your machine in your settings.
I would point out however, a CUT is not the heavy beast a 'farm tractor' is so traction is more a function of proper ballast than tires, chains or anything else except operator skill. I've seen more "stuck" machines (as well as cars & trucks) driven out of the 'problem' than I can count.
Feel free to ask away, the only dumb question is the one that goes unasked.
Best of luck.
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Thanks Guys, I am definatly ready to experiment, I have all ready read all the owners manuals and i have no clue when it will be delivered. I will definatly have to try out the screws in the treads, because being able to loose the chains would help get me more snow accounts.
As far as ballast I ordered it with wheel weights, but i would like to get a weight box(or make one). The dealer also said they dont really do calcium filling any more they use a biodegradable substance, any recomendations on tire fill?
Thanks again!
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No cal chloride? Whaaat? Cal C is used in EVERYTHING--it's edible--in fact it's in my jar of pickles!
(me thinks) Maybe THEY don't use it because they sell a different system with better profit margins. Just a guess. And I'm sure the "dealers" here are going to read me the riot act. So be it 
Personally, I've never used any tire filler. I get too many punctures doing commercial work to worry about breaking down a tire and cleaning out the mess AND having to replace it every time. Just my opinion.
Another thought on chains or screws on tires: either will leave gouges or scratches on pavement if that's a concern.
And you reading the owner manual... my collegues in my "other life" as an automotive technical writer would be pleased--and surprised--to hear that! We used to joke we were paid well to write and produce something no one read (a complete manual can cost a car company $400,000)! In fact just last week, Chrysler announced they will no longer put hard-copy owner manuals in vehicles. They're now on disk.
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Ha Ha idk thats just what the dealer told me, i dont know much about CaCl filling at work i deal with foam filling for telehandlers and man lifts.
Some "city" people are very picky about how their driveway looks, i could care less.
I never knew it cost that much for an owners manual, maybe I have read some of your work then, because i read all the paperwork on equipment that cost this much.
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| re: New To The CUT (2305)
Ken; Welcome to the board. I use R4's and have never had chains on a compact, farm tractors yes. Chains are OK, but a pain to put on and rough riding to boot.
You mention buying or building a weight box. In my opinion they are a waste of money when a bit more will buy you a box scraper for the three point that serves as ballast and as a real handy tool for moving soil around too.
I don't have a front mount blower so I don't know how heavy they are in comparison to a front end loader, but I'd think a box scraper would balance your rig just fine.
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I have heard of people using a tiller for ballast, it just never crossed my mind to do that with a box blade, and that is one of the implements i want to add I will have to look into the cost differences. I know the weight box is $210. Im sure between wheel weights and a box blade it would be more than ample weight in the back.
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Not to throw a wet (or frozen) blanket on your new purchase...
I cringe when I think of taking my stuff out in the winter to make a few dollars. We use salt here on the roads and it eats everything--removes the pretty and protective plating from nuts, bolts, fittings, hose ends, and finds its way into every crack, scratch, and crevice. Wanna make the paint peel on something...expose it to salty winter weather.
As we drive down the roads here one can actually can taste it in the air, and burns my eyes. Some roadway shoulders stay whiteish until mid-May from the runoff.
That said, anything exposed to the elements is subject to rust unless you have a carwash at home.
I know Murf is a proponent of tractors for snow removal, but I strongly advocate a beater truck and a plow for any snow removal chores. Nothing beats a radio, heat, a cushy seat and a cab--even someone along for the ride. And you can go plow your neighbor$ in the time it takes to do your own driveway with a blower.
Doing it yourself is fine, but at what cost?
Given a choice, keep the tractor in the garage or barn until spring and it will last a lifetime and more.
I'm jis' sayin'.
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Ken;
I've seen people use a tiller as ballast and I'll admit to doing it a time ot two myself, but the consequences of crunching a tiller by accidently backing into something can get pricey. The box blade on the other hand will likey mash up what you back into and not the boxblade. Another thing I use the box blade for is a parking brake. Having bum legs that don't work very good makes locking and unlocking the oparking brake kinda hard for me to do. Frank.
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