I have a blown head gasket on a NT304C. I have everything removed including all 11 head bolts. Northern in the manual only show 8. We can't get the cylinder head to let loose. Any tips?
As I'm sure you already suspect, the mushy head gasket is sorta gluing the head to the block. To loosen mine, I got a 2x4 stub (wood) and a 3 lb sledge hammer. Put the wood against the side of the head, banged on it with the hammer. Tapped around both sides of the head - and the front (no room in the back), till the gasket decided to let loose.
Pics Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada Posts: 6387
re: NT304C cyclinder head stuck
Our mechanic is a funny old curmudgeon. He has more sneaky tricks for doing things than anyone I've ever seen.
For sticky head gaskets holding the head in place he uses the engine itself to do the work for him. He takes apart everything as normal, but leaves the head bolts in, but very loose. Then he puts compressed air to the holes where the fuel injectors used to be. Even just a 100 psi will pop the head loose. If it's really stubborn use Greg's trick while the air pressure is still applied, the two will work for sure.
We did have a chain hoist hooked up to the head, but couldn't get it to move. We also tried pounding a putty knife in a back corner, but couldn't pry on the putty knife. Will try the wood and sledge in a couple of weeks. Also maybe a longer, thicker, stronger scaper. I assume there are dowel pins, if so how many.
Pics Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: South Carolina Posts: 3442
re: NT304C cyclinder head stuck
Been long time but a twist off of Murf's (which you can control better) is to turn the engine over and let the compression break it loose. As I said been a long time but am sure those head bolts need to be say finger tight to begin with. May could do it turning it over by hand or impact wrench which to me would be safer. But, get a friend to look at it for you to be 100% sure all bolts are out, a set of female eyes normally see such better than male eyes do.
Assuming I get the head off I notice that Northern mentions replacing the head bolts. Is that necessary? I'm going to try different as in thicker prying devices to put between the head and cylinder block. Also may try the 2x4 and big hammer. Boy is the head ever stuck.
Those instructions assume the stretchable (for lack of the proper word) head bolts. They're generally one-time use, and never get retorqued anyway. But unless Northern actually changes head bolts before selling their machines, that just sounds like they're trying to sell unnecessary headbolts.
Cuz as far as I know, the Chinese still use old-fashioned reusable steel headbolts. As such, they should be retorqued within 50 hours or so after the head is removed for any reason. It's the same principle that applies to wheel lug nuts. Your balance and rotate service order typically recommends retorquing after 25 miles.
Called Northern today and they said there is not reason to change head bolts. The head is still stuck. Finally took it to a mechanic who will now repair tractor. Thanks for the help.
Our mechanic finally found the other 4 head bolts. They were hidden under the injector hold-down bracket. Northern shows 8 on their diagram, he took out 15. It is now fixed and running. Will retorque at 20 hours.