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Stepping Up From Garden Tractor

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Gator
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 15 CT
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2001-11-13          33160

If I buy a Compact Tractor like a Kubota B7500 or 2710 will I experince a "HUGE" difference in performance of the snow blower versus the Wheelhorse Garden tractor 42" snowblower I have now?

Will I be able to mow the grass and do a good finish job?? Compared to the garden tractor with its 23" tall tires and only 600lbs??

I am using a Wheelhorse Classic Garden Tractor which I have used over the years on the different house I have owned 2 acres, 1/2 acre and now 5 acres with a 1000 foot drive.

Now that I have 5 acres, 2.5 of which is grass I feel the Wheel Horse is just too small. Yet when I go to a dealer and see the machines I chicken out, too much money, seems awful big........

Any advice from those that have STEPPED Up and been happy welcome!!!


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David Waite
Join Date: Jun 1999
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2001-11-13          33171

A few years back I stepped up from a sears 10hp to a massey 1225 it was on the lot versus ordering a 1215 and waiting. In my case it is larger than I really needed, I thought. Since I started using it I have found more and more jobs for it. Hopefully it will last threw my later years. In your case if the Troy is still running and doing the job keep it and start putting money away for a new one when the troy gives up the ghost as my sears did. You will have enough down so the price of the Kuboto wont seem so bad. A bigger tractor will do the drive faster than the little troy, and if the Kuboto has a bigger mowing deck cutting time will be less also. upkeep on a bigger tractor is more and toys are more expensive but are not lost by changing tractors down the line as some small garden tractor attachments are. ....

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Gator
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2001-11-13          33175

Thanks David,

I have been pondering this for a while and since I thought it was somewhat extravagant I have saved up the money for it already in would you believe a separate stash.

My Wheelhorse is about twenty years old now (1983), while still in good shape I could say I've gotten the best of it.

So it really boils down to can I accomplish:
1)Will a B7500 equivalent Compact Tractor allow me to plow the 1000 foot drive in "ONE Pass AFTER the Storm" instead of the every 3" to 6" way I tackle it now "During the Storm" in multiple passes. This would be a big win for me.

2)I need to be able to finish mow the two and half acres which has no trees to make the tractor a "regular use" machine.

3) I will use the loader to satisfy my wifes mulch and dirt garden needs.

Can It can deliver on these objectives???? ....

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David Waite
Join Date: Jun 1999
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2001-11-13          33184

Mine is 23 horse and I use a 5ft back blade in light fluffy snow the tractor does not have a problem but the snow banks up over the top of the blade. In heavy snow it pushes large sections of snow which peel off both side of the blades sides. So if you have a loader same thing I would expect that you have to keep moving it to the sides the most snow I had the past couple of years is about 15 inches and I could push it in one diveway about 60 ft but I had to make 5 passes to push the peel off on a 14ft wide drive. Mine has turf tires and I use chains on the front . I have a 5ft 3pth finish mower to mow my yard with a lot of trees the rear mower lets me back in under the trees to get close and get the corners. this saves me running the push mower or weed wacker to finish. On a big snow on your drive I would opt for a blower that way you could get one pass down and one back and be done. Sorry I dont know what a 2710 or 7500 size is but you can compare mine 1500 lb 23 horse 5ft blade 5ft mower 50inch tiller and I would not give it up just add to it, thinking of a FEL as I have moved a lot of dirt with the blade and it would be easier to transport dirt further with a FEL. ....

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Gator
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2001-11-13          33185

David,

B7500 is about 1400 lbs / 21 hp and the B2710 is about 1800 lbs / 27 hp. for just the tractor without implements. That's very helpful info, my drive is paved and is about 14 feet wide plus I have a parking area tha is about 45 by 80 which I sometimes can't push or can't snowblow with my single stage blower. I had been tempted by the rear blade because it gets windy here and I ususally have to blow in only one direction, so I either blow with it ot become a snow man. But the snowblower is great because I get no snow banks which hold the melt an cause huge sections of ice. The snowblower eliminates that icing problem.

Since I only have beds and one tree on the 2.5 acres of grass I was thinking 3pH mower until I realized I just have one garage bay to store this stuff in, then I started thinking the belly mower would be better and also probably get me close to the flower beds contours without having to trim. Now with the WheelHorse I only trim once a month it gets so close.

Decisions ........!


....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2001-11-14          33190

I remember agonizing about costs. Actually, I suppose it was my wife who was doing the agonizing since she had to listen to most of it. Finally she said something like ’If you want it, you want it and it don't have to be justified--the money is there.' As is often the case, it was pretty good advice from my wife. I think I was mostly trying to figure how a tractor would fit into things and money was not the thing in itself. Money was just a common term to compare my 'more of this means less of that' thinking. Anyway, I'm not sure anybody except farmers can ever adequately cost-justify their tractors. For the rest of us, there's a big recreational component and perhaps other reasons too. Over the long haul, I'd probably like using my tractor better than taking vacations, it that was a choice. For these reasons, an 'I want the tractor' and I'm willing to give up this or that to get it should be a pretty good reason. Never the less, a tractor is a pretty expensive thing, and it should fit in with things well enough to be kept pretty busy or a person may continue to think of it as 'too expensive.'

In terms of keeping a tractor busy, the 3ph and a loader are good ways. Relatively inexpensive 3ph implements are available that can adapt a tractor to almost any imaginable equipment job. Tractors do sort of fill up lives because you can be walking through the yard and think: 'Gee it would nice to have that.' With a tractor, these inspirations are virtually within reach and you just do them. Considering how the time may otherwise be spent, the price of a tractor might be considered a bargain. Of course, you do end up building a shed--or a bigger one.

Anyway, all sorts of things can be said about tractor size and power. I sort of used up my length here spinning philosophy. However, I think it's an important part of owning a tractor. Unless having a tractor means not eating or being warm, owning one is less about money than it is about making choices in how you spend your time--except for farmers of course who choose among different choices.
....

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Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000
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2001-11-14          33195

I really like to sell the BX series tracotors for under 5 acres. It does all that many of the bigger tractors do. The cut on a kubota deck is one of the best. The loader and the attachments are easy to install and remove and they are very versatile tractors that are not overwhelming to operate. ....

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Gator
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2001-11-14          33197

Art,

I have 5 acres and a long 1000 foot paved drive. I have looked at the BX, and can say that it could easily replace my Garden Tractor as it is comparable in size and ground clearance.

The fact that my lawn area is an unobstructed 2.5 acres out of the 5 has led me to believe that I could push the size up to the B7500 or B2710, would I be that unhappy with the cut and manueurability of the larger B's vs the bx in this situation???

But that's just it, I wanted something bigger than my Garden Tractor as I fell it is half the size I need.

The Tires on the Bx are about the same as my Wheelhorse and experience tells me that they are too small. Of course the BX is 4wd and that certainly must make a big difference.

Art is there any difference in the "ease of attaching" implements like like front snowblower or belly mower on the BX versus the B7500???

....

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TomG
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2001-11-15          33205

Just a couple comments about size: When I bought my tractor, I needed to trench for an underground electrical service and couldn't get any contractor to come to the country so I had to do it myself. The trenching requirement sort of defined the size of tractor I needed. We have about 2 acres total of finish mowing but there are quite a few trees and bushes. I don't have a mower for the tractor, because I realized it would be faster to keep using a riding mower. Still, I wouldn't want a smaller tractor because mine is the right size for the rest of my work. Very small tractors start getting into some absolute limitations--they can't be used to trench deep enough, can't lift a rock or break a root. A small tractor does things like mowing, blowing grading, tilling etc. same as a big tractor, they just take longer. However, small tractors do have absolute limitations. By the same token, big ones just can't go some places. An unobstructed 2-acres of finish mowing sounds like a good place for a sizable tractor.

In terms of snow blowing, I think that there may be some difficulty clearing a 45' wide area with a blower, even assuming that the sides are unobstructed and removal can be started from the centre and blown toward each side. I don't think my 5’ blower driven by 24 pto hp would always throw it at least 22.5' (distance depends on the type of snow). I'm reasonable certain that sometimes I'd end up blowing some snow that already had been blown. Not a big problem for me most of the time, but with less power, I'd have to take it in several passes or reduce ground speed a lot.

If I was planning to blow a 45' wide area and considering buying a tractor of modest hp, I think I'd research blowers carefully. The size and rpm of the blower fan has a lot to do with the distance it throws, and also the hp required. The blower width also affects the required h. It may work better to get a high rpm fan blower, even if that means going for a smaller blower to get a small tractor within the recommended hp range for the blower. Of course, this is another case for a bigger tractor.

....

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BillMullens
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2001-11-17          33246

Gator, I can't help you with your snowblower questions. But I can give you my opinion on "stepping up". I went from an MTD 42" riding mower used on 4 fairly flat, clear acres to a TC29, which is New Hollands 25 PTO hp, 2500 lb. tractor. I initially wanted a TC21, but when I compared them side-by-side, I didn't much care for the 21 (it is about 1500 lbs.) I went with the 29 instead of the 25 to get a live PTO with the standard transmission. Anyway, I'm really glad I got the bigger tractor. We bought a house/land with about 3 acres of cleared yard, and about 3 more acres of rocks and trees. I've done work with the 29 that the smaller tractor just wouldn't do; it will push an unbelievably large pile of brush and push/lift/move very big rocks. As for finish mowing quality, I'd say it is close to as good with a 3 point hitch finish mower as my Lowes mower. The wider mower just skips over more dips than the lawn mower.
Good luck,
Bill ....

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cutter
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2001-11-17          33248

Gator,

As always, these guys really cover the bases. Tom covered most of what I believe is a good argument for the larger machine, take it from one that started life with a walk behind and progressed through Ariens, Cub Lo Boy, Cub Cadet Super Tractor, Zero turn mowing machine, B7100, 4100, TC29 and currently a 2910, which I hope to be burried with (not alive, this would happen only if I asked the wife to trade again!). The best two cuts I have experienced have been with the TC and the 2910, and that takes everything into consideration. The smaller machines leave less footprint, but can't muster the HP with a 5' or 6' deck to blast through tall grass that has gotten out of hand and spread it nicely. I don't rake leaves and I have acres full of trees. I blow them with the mower deck into the woods my last couple of mowings. Those dry leaves clean the underside of the deck nicely too, makes it easier to clean before storage. I can't believe the work I have been able to do with these compact/loader combo's. You can dig, pull, lift, carry, pile, move, spread and on and on. I can use my machine for light loader work (meaning a safe load, not lifted above the center of gravity) without rear ballast, having only the heavy belly deck locked up in place. Something that was not safe due to the short wheelbase and lighter weight of my 4100 (which by the way, may be a nice sized machine for the uses you describe, just throw some ballast on the rear for loader use). As Tom stated, the more you look around the more you find you can do. I dug the underdrains for my barn with the TC's front loader, working in between the 2x4 pole supports inside the building and moved only two braces to do it, try that with any other type of tractor. The Kubota has great ground clearance for a machine of it's size, the belly deck locks up and out of the way. I don't know about you Gator, but the lawn tractor type machines I priced when I made the move to a large compact were close, especially once you threw a diesel into the mix. Seems to me a Cub Super Tractor with a diesel and 5' deck was running over 10k. With that you could mow and do minor choirs. For the same price, I bought a B7100 with FWD and a cat 1 three point hitch. Although I haven't looked at the smaller BX series or the NH offerings of that size, if they are comparable to a 4100, that may be where you should start looking. One Thing I have noticed is that you don't want to be fooled by dealers selling you a machine base upon it's weight as it pertains to footprint when mowing. I did some figuring on my own during my buying sprees and found that if you measure the width of the tires as it compares to the weight of the machine, you can come up with a pretty accurate measure of that. It is suprising how many of them are almost the same when this is taken into consideration. The bigger difference is the type of tire, the turf being the lighest footprint and the ag being the heaviest, with r4 being a good compromise. I have a blade for my machine and if I had it to do over, I would have purchased the front mount blower with a cab. The blade can be retro-fit to another machine if you trade however. If you have no trees I would suggest a quality three point mower and a loader along with front or rear blower for that "one pass" effect. Something I can pass along that may save time and money in the end is that these other brands that are showing up (Korean I think, some orange, yellow, purple, forgot the names) were not priced that much less than the current Japanese/American brands we all know and love. Seems to me trade in time would benefit from a well established brand name and you would end up losing any savings you gained at purchase time (unless you plan on keeping it). Hope something here helps, lord knows the posters here have helped me plenty! ....

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Gator
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2001-11-20          33289

I stopped by my local Kubota dealer.

I asked him whether I should be concerned about the higher center of gravity on the B7500 versus the Bx2200, and he said that I would feel more comfortable with either of the Kubotas than I currently am on the Wheelhorse Garden Tractor that I am using.

Keep in mind that that besides mowing I was going to get a loader, and he was suggesting that I load the tires with CaCl for about 185 lbs each for loader use.

I thought that loading tires would make the tractor harder riding and worse for mowing, but more stable. But the dealer said no problem. I was not clear if I would be more stable than the GT tractor if I did not load the tires.

He discouraged me from buying a snowblower, saying that in NJ we don't get that much snow, and that all you need to do is set the loader to float, drop your rear blade with shoes on and plow straight ahead letting the rear blade pick up what gets pushed to the side of the front bucket. Up and down he said and you are done.

For the B7500 , loader, and belly mower he wanted $15,300 which included choice of turf,ag,industrial or bar turf tires plus loaded tires free.

....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2001-11-21          33305

I don't believe my turfs are loaded. Loading the tires will leave deeper footprints on the lawn, and it might make the difference between mowing or not mowing when the ground is wet. Guess it depends on how particular about the lawn a person is. Anyway, I'm not sure loading would make a lot of difference most times, and besides, I find that most turf damage comes from the front wheels during tight turns anyway.

Without loaded tires, I counter-weight the loader with a 3ph implement. Of course, you do have to keep in mind that a 3ph implement provides no counter-weighting if it's on the ground. Generally loaded tires as well as weight on the 3ph works, and each has its advantages. Something to keep in mind about CaCl loaded tires is that if there's ever a leak, nothing will grow therefor some years. You might also keep in mind that both high and low centres of gravity have their advantages.

The dealer has an interesting idea about the loader plus rear-blade removal. I guess the idea is to use the loader to push the snow to the sides so the wheels don't pack tracks, and then catch it with the blade. I assume the blade is angled so it pushes to snow to one side and the bucket is wider than the rear tire tracks. I would keep in mind that the blade would have to be considerably wider than the rear tires, especially because the blade would be angled the snow clears off one end.

I guess the advantage over just using the blade turned around is that the driving is foreward rather than in reverse. I believe that would work for fairly light snows. What I find is that with 6" - 8" snows is that the bucket fills up within a few feet. It then pushes snow ahead of the bucket rather than off the sides. I go about 20' before the traction breaks (turfs w/o chains) and I have to scoop and dump a few buckets before continuing. The problem is that too much snow for the tires gets pushed ahead of the bucket before it starts coming off the sides. Works fine for lighter snows though.
....

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Gator
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2001-11-21          33309

Tom,
You bring up some interesting points that exactly match my thinking and experience.

I was sceptical as to this plow with the loader cleanup at the same time with the blade idea for two reasons. First is that with a garden tractor and a blade with no angle you quickly bog down pushing the snow straight ahead. In wet snow this gets bad real quick. Second, I thought the rear blade would not be able to scrape up the tire tracks on my paved drive. I completely overlooked your point that with angle it would not be wide enough to push snow very far off to the side. Is it possible to offset the blade? But I would assume this would make your tractor almost uncontrollable, funny how ice and snow are "lets go straight" kind of things.

Reference your snow blower comments on the wide turnaround parking area that ranges in widths of 33',60', 24' and is about 100' long, I do this now with the GT and a front single stage blower. The GT of course is gear and is 12.5 horse with 23" rear tires. The blower is small and has plates on the sides and top that exaggerate its size in the hopes of collecting more snow than its small high speed auger can grab. With the right depth it can really through dry snow with a vengeance, but no deaper than 6". So in this section I am basically throwing the same snow several times. So it does get heavy. And I have to take progressively smaller bites of it so it gets time consuming. I t usually takes me an hour to do that section, and then I'm off to do the other 900 feet by 14' with three 20' wide passing lanes in there. That section takes another hour. I repeat this process for each 4-6" of snow. Realistically I 'm in trouble above 4". So I am at it at any hour during the storm day or night. If the snow is very wet I am unable to clear this area completely, and work on it over several weeks of daily thaws. Sometimes wainting for spring.

I would have to say that this snow removal problem is my number one must change requirement for the tractor. I WANT to sit inside during the storm even if it is 15" deep, and then after its over come out and clear it.

So what size should I get for this while still being able to mow the lawn, and do mulch/dirt loader work, aerate the lawn and do other chores???

I was originally interested in the B2710 because it is about 500 lbs heavier than the B7500 but most people seem to be recommending the sub compact BX or B7500 both of which are about 1350 lbs without the loader.

It is hard to get fact from fiction. And this is such a big item you don't want to miscalculate.

Another myth I am concerned about is that to run a 5ft finish mower some people recommend 5hp per foot of width. If that is true the B7500 is out as it is only about 21 Hp and 16 or 17 pto. As mowing and snow plowing or blowing will be the bread and butter of my use it needs to the right size for these activiities.

Well that's my ramblings on this for today. Nobody ever said that I don't think about these things enough !!!! ....

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Don M
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2001-11-21          33321

Re the finish mower question:
For some reason finish mowers can be wider than other implements for a given HP. My JD755 is 15 PTO HP and it runs a 60" rear finish mower beautifully. The JD accessories brochure from that time allowed for a 60" or 72" rear finish mower for my tractor. But in the mid mount mower, only 60" was allowed, not 72".
So maybe a mid mount is different than a rear mount in terms of HP requirements. In any event, the tractors you are considering would not have a problem with a 60" mower of either type, in my opinion.

If you want to sit out a 15" storm then clear it, I think your choices are to use a big snowblower or a loader. The loader would be a slow process. Sometimes snow handling is more a function of traction than implement. I plowed out a service driveway at work last year with about that amount of snow, maybe more. I used a 55 HP Ford 4000 and rear blade. I had to take it off in layers, basically. I got stuck, (well, stopped) a lot, and this tractor weighs quite a bit and has ag tires and lots of ground clearance. It took a lot of work to get it cleared. Even the guys with the pickups with plows like to make multiple passes during a 15" storm.

So, if you have a sizing issue, it centers around the tractor needed to run a snowblower that can handle 15" of snow. Or else downsize your snow requirement if need be. I have no idea what size tractor handles what size blower.

At least you are checking it out. Good job.

-Don M ....

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Don M
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2001-11-21          33322

Gator, I just re-read your older posts and see that you are in New Jersey. In that case I really agree with your dealer, that a blower is much more of a luxury than a necessity. Most years you will not have a snowfall that exceeds the ability of a rear blade on a small compact tractor. It is the same in Illinois where I live. My Deere dealer explained it to me, that when we have a year like last one, when we get a couple of big snows, everybody wants a blower. But they are very unusual snowfalls for Illinois or NJ. He said save your money and get what you need for 95% of your snowfalls, don't buy for the once every few years thing. In that case you just might have to get out a couple of times during the storm. While you are out there shivering you can warm yourself with the thoughts of all the money you did not spend.
:-)
:-)

-Don M ....

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TomG
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2001-11-22          33330

Yes, I spend time thinking about this stuff. I've always had a problem using things I don't understand. However, when all is said and done, I just ask my dealer and he's never put me onto something that didn't do the job. I did make the choice between blade and blower though and the basic choices probably should be mine to make. The dealer asked about my budget and then identified an appropriate blower. I think that's a pretty good relationship.

I wouldn't worry too much if some people say a blower's a luxury. Many people probably would say that just having a tractor is a luxury for most everybody except farmers. I guess I'd only say that tractors are expensive and it's good to keep them busy, and of course a blower is useful only during the winter while a blade has its uses year-around. On the other hand, a blade like I'd want costs more than I paid for my blower (off-set is one of the adjustments decent blades have), and I'm not sure how useful I'd find a less expensive blade.

I could do most year-around routine work with loader and a good blade. However, the blower can get through 3' of snow and blow it 20' - 30' most times while no blade for my tractor will do that. I guess almost all decisions except those having unlimited budgets require compromises. Mine was a blower to do what I wanted with the snow and a box scraper for the grading/landscaping work. A scraper does most of what I want and better than an inexpensive blade, but good blades are more versatile than a scraper.

I guess, I'd think through priorities budget etc. and decide on the basic choices for myself. Then, I'd expect to be able to describe requirements (e.g. the parking area) and budget to the dealer. A dealer should be able to identify equipment suitable for the tractor that will get the work done, or tell me that there is nothing that will work. Of course, I do recognize that dealers have interests in keeping happy customers. If I made a choice that my dealer thought would lead to an under-used tractor and eventually an unhappy customer, I'd expect that he would tell me that too. I don't actually think the loader/back-blade idea is a bad idea, as long as the blade is wide enough and the tractor would pull that wide of blade in other users. Tire chains and extra ballast would allow the setup to handle deeper snows.

....

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Gator
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2001-12-14          33820

The more I read, the more I think, the less decisions I am making. Some of the recent posts on mowers. Make me feel like I am pushing it with the B7500 with only 2.5 acres to mow.

But I guess time is money, and I just want to get done faster, but not too fast, like to mow in an hour + instead of 2.5 hours now.

I guess I better get out a dirve the Bx2200, B7500 and get a tangible feel for what is right.

Thanks for all your help, though it looks like another winter on the Wheelhorse, if we ever get winter.
....

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David Waite
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2001-12-14          33823

With the size of the 2 tractors I dont think it will matter. more power will be nice if you get the loader, but not enough power you will wonder why you gave up your little tractor. Mine is to big for mowing my lot but when I move dirt or snow or till it is just right. when you look at the price difference between the 2 I think the larger is better. when I priced mine the difference between large garden and the JD4100, MF 1215 was not big and I took a 1225 off the lot for slightly more than the 1215 I would have to wait for. I also picked MF because there was 2 dealers within 20 miles 1 jd within 20 miles and Kuboto dealer 40 miles away. The dealer I bought from died and business closed down but I still have parts and service local. good luck more power more fun ....

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Don M
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2001-12-14          33825

Gator, don't feel bad for continuing to think this over. You have added some more info and I thought maybe I could comment on it.
Tire size: If you are having a rough ride now, you would be right to go to something with bigger tires. If that eliminates the BX, well, there's a reason.
Filled tires: If you have a septic field to worry about, I'd try to make the ballast removable. Like a box scraper blade or rear blade and maybe some additional weight hung on it.
Power: There is a huge difference in the working ability of the units you are considering vs your Wheel Horse. I would expect a commensurate difference in mowing or snowblowing.
Mid vs rear mower: Your reason for a mid mower is as good as any.
Clearing the parking area: You'd be able to do a decent job with the FEL on that, I think. Good enough, anyway.
I would have said the BX with FEL sounds perfect, until you commented on the tire size. You don't need anything more than 20-ish gross HP, but it sounds like you'd like bigger tires.
Finally, even if you buy a compact, you might want to hang on to the WH for a while. Keep it under a nice tarp or something. Then you have a spare, or a kids machine, or whatever. Just a thought. ....

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Stepping Up From Garden Tractor

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Steve
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 179 UK
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2001-12-17          33866

Gator -

The BX2200 and B7500 are very similar machines. The 7500 has a bigger frame and a fair bit more power in the hydraulic system (5.5 vs 7 gpm). The BX2200 has a small advantage in horse power delivered to the PTO. The 7500 is a bit more tippy on slopes, but not much more - it's taller and bigger wheelbase. If ground clearance is an issue the 7500 is a clear winner.

I've got 5 acres and 2.25 to mow and love my BX2200. The 4WD and R4s work well with heavy loads and don't bother the lawn if the ground is reasonably dry. Get the FEL - you won't regret it. The FEL works well enough on snow for my short 130ft driveway, but you'd be better of w/ an articulated blade or thrower for more plowing.

Either one is expensive, but the deisel engine and basic tractor should last a lifetime on a 5 acre playpen - and certainly outlast and outperform a series of garden tractors. BTW a 22HP diesel will have a lot more useful torque when it counts than a 22HP gas engine - no comparison w/ a garden tractor.
....

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Depdog
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 20 myLocation
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2001-12-19          33915

Hi Gator
I bought a JD790 ,FEL,4WD,Gear and have not regreted the decision. I have 10 acers, mostly wooded and a mtd 42 inch mower. It took almost 3-4 hours to mow the grass and cleared areas under the many trees. I have also used the mower to pull a lawn trailer for yard waste and move dirt. I have worn the rear end slap out(6 yrs). The tractor costs over ten times the cost of the mower but I hope to get 20 years or more out of the tractor. The FEL is GREAT and it has been used to move dirt ,lift telephone poles,scrape,clear brush ,mow brush&grass,and operate a post hole digger drilling over 200 holes and operate other 3ph implements. The tractor has allowed me to mow in about 1 and 1/2 hours and lift/move many heavy objects.Whatever brand get a 24-30 hp Tractor. Good luck with your quest. ....

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lbrown59
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2004-10-19          98749



<<
The fact that my lawn area is an unobstructed 2.5 acres out of the 5 has led me to believe that I could push
1*the size up to the B7500 or B2710, would I be that unhappy with the cut and manueurability of the larger B's vs the bx in this situation???
2*But that's just it, I wanted something bigger than my Garden Tractor as I fell it is half the size I need.
3*The Tires on the Bx are about the same as my Wheelhorse and experience tells me that they are too small. Of course the BX is 4wd and that certainly must make a big difference.
Gator
======================
>>1*I started out with the intention of getting the B2410 for my 2.33 acres as i compared it with the bx23 I started leaning more toward the BX 23 over the b2410.
4 weeks ago I got the BX23 and have no regrets about forgeting about the bx2410.
It's more than I need here.
2*There is no comparesion between a BX23 and a garden tractor.
3*And my experence with My BX 23 tells me it has all the tire it needs in 2 or 4 wheel drive.

>> ....

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