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jackzucosky
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 13 pennsylvania
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2004-08-02          92492

I have a 1100' gravel driveway that needs a little maintenance. There are a few potholes that have to be taken care of and the road needs to be generally smoothed. I read Murf's post on how potholes are formed and how they have to be dug out instead of filled. I have a Kubota M4900 and a 6' box blade and york rake. I can't seem to get a smooth surface with the box blade. I get a washboard effect instead of a flat surface. I've looked at the TR3 rake but can't justify the $3000+ price if the implements I have already will do the job. Could anybody give me any advice on what I am doing wrong? I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2004-08-02          92495

Get a chain harrow or make something similar with a chunk of chain link fence.

I have to groom my gravel about every 3 weeks. ....

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grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 677 central Maine
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2004-08-03          92556

What is the material like that you are trying to grade?
Rocky?Sandy? Clean gravel? ....

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jackzucosky
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 13 pennsylvania
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2004-08-03          92557

It is 6" of 2A modified. This is stone dust up to 2" gravel. I can't seem to get it flat with the box blade. I don't think a chain harrow would help with the potholes. It would probably help after I get the driveway in better shape. ....

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grassgod
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 566 ct
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2004-08-03          92559

Jack - where are ya from? You can barrow my TR3 rake. You'll have that driveway perfect in 2 hours max. ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2004-08-03          92560

For smoothing fresh pit run with my scraper I extend the top-link and give the 3ph plenty of float. That way the scraper follows the ground contour and the blade doesn't dig in and cut new washboard as the front wheels go over bumps. If the top-link adjustment is good, the scraper will pick up some material and and distribute it into minor dips that are less than the scraper width. It also compacts the pit run a bit but I usually back-drag with a fairly flat loader bucket while holding some down-pressure for final compacting.

I get the surface smooth enough to suit me this way without resorting to a drag. However, what works for pit run may not work well for loose gravel that doesn't compact. ....

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jackzucosky
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 13 pennsylvania
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2004-08-03          92562

I'm in northeastern PA around Wilkes Barre. ....

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beagle
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1333 Michigan
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2004-08-03          92564

I have 21AA stone on my driveway and maintain it with a box blade similar to what Tom descibed. The trick for me is the final smoothing pass with the top link extended. I actually make several final smoothing passes extending the top link a little more each time until a get the finish I want. With all the rain we have had this year, I need to do it every couple of weeks to keep a smooth finish. ....

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shortmagnum
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 848 Wisconsin
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2004-08-03          92571

Once you get the material roughed in you might want to try turning your blade around backwards for a smoother finish. You can add some extra weight to it if it wants to ride completely over the top of the gravel.

Ending with Mark's idea of a piece of chain link fence (or an old bed spring) with a bit of weight on it will really smooth it out.
Dave ....

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2004-08-03          92573

If money is not a major issue.... a drag scraper would be an ideal tool. They work like a mini-road grader. ....


Link:   

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2004-08-03          92575

Assuming your box blade has a rear blade, lock it in place (don't let it swing free) and lengthen the top link until the forward facing edge is just clear of the ground, then pull forwards. The forward facing blade will carry the mnaterial away from high spots and let it fall into the low spots.

If it is really rough you may need to make a few passes to get everything smoothed out.

A washboard effect from the box blade is usually caused by one of two things. If the ripples are tiny then the blade is hopping, this is caused by the blade grabbing onto then bouncing over rocks in the material being worked. If the ripples are large this is the teeter-totter effect caused by the front tires rising & falling over obstacles, in this case likely unworked material.

Best of luck. ....

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jackzucosky
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 13 pennsylvania
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2004-08-03          92585

My box blade has front and rear blades. It also has scarifiers. I would assume that these should be placed in the uppermost position. Will this technique you described take care of eliminating the potholes or should I drop the scarifier teeth to break up these areas. Thanks. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2004-08-03          92595

You want the material in the roadbed to be of uniform compaction. If all you do is fill the potholes they will be back in short order.

If there are the remnants of potholes still in the road bed you should start by thoroughly breaking them up with the scarifiers, then add new material and groom it out.

Best of luck. ....

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grinder
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 677 central Maine
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2004-08-04          92652

A crown in the road will help with the pot holes. ....

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rocco99
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 7 California/Vermont
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2004-11-24          100980

I just finished my 300' gravel drive using my garden tractor with a rear grading blade to loosen up the stay-pak (which is broken gray stone)and then I made a wood box frame 4'x5' out of 4x4 and nailed chain link fence to one side and the other side I added a third row 4x4 and put cinderblocks on top for weight. I dragged it around and it groomed the stone by allowing them to run through the links and exit. Cost me hardly nothing! ....

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dklopfenstein
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 125 Southern Indiana
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2004-11-24          100981

I also have an 1100 foot gravel drive. About 3 times per year, I use a rear blade angled in and pull the outside gravel in towards the center. Then I go and get my in-law's 10' drag scraper (box blade with long tongue and wheels behind it)and flatten everything back out. It works fantastic...and it is MUCH faster than using a box blade only. I have used both...but when I can use a drag scraper for free it makes the decision much easier. If you can afford one, I would highly recommend it. I have also used it to level places in the yard after construction and my father-in-law uses it to build terraces, scrape cattle lots, and also level his driveway. They really are an excellant piece to have. ....

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grassgod
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 566 ct
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2004-11-25          100999

Go look at the TR3 rake at the web site. It is a must for gravel driveway maintenance! I good friend of mine just bought his a few months ago but sold his tractor to buy anouther toy he felt would be of more use. He is selling his TR3 for $1000 less from what he paid new. If you want his number, Let me know. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2004-11-25          101002

BTW, Grassy, did you ever get that TR3 on the scales? ....

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grassgod
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 566 ct
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2004-11-25          101024

Not yet...but I havent forgotten & will do it as soon as the leaf season is over...probably right after the first of the year. ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2004-11-26          101108

I agree the only way to maintain the road is with a power box rake a.k.a Harley rake. The ruts/holes have to be ground-out and all the road surface brought back to being all one homogeneous material (loose and fluffy) and consistent compactness for the both the base and top layer. I maintain my 1000' road that has 21-AA crushed limestone with my 6' 3-pt power rake. It will go down 6" in one, slow pass grinding everything in its path. I had been using my Galion 10' road grader but it couldn't touch the result of the power rake and subsequent smoothing with a 6' box scraper. Even the guys who put the road in 35 years ago are amazed the road has remained rut-free for nearly 10 months---with a grader I was doing it every week or so. I also "maintain" a neighboring road only using my box scraper. (neighbors don't want to pay for the power raking service), and the box scraper is done as a favor. The ruts and holes never go away and are getting worse with every rain. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2004-11-29          101226

The real problem with breaking up a road surface 6" down is not getting rid of potholes, or the 'pothole memory' it is compacting it after you 'massage' it back into shape.

As a rule of thumb you cannot compact material by driving over it any further down than about 2" at best.

To compact down 6" in a single shot would require a VERY heavy vibratory roller and moisture to lock it down.

If you're power raking down 6" and not having any ruts or potholes coming back then I'm amazed too.

Best of luck. ....

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