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1070 hard shifting gears

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Eric Edwards
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2000-10-22          20779

I bought a used 1070 with 250 rental hrs on it. I've put another 100 hrs on it in a couple of months but now find shifting to be difficult both between ranges and gears. I understand that the transmission is syncronised but does this mean that the shift between ranges is sync as well. I have asumed that I would need to be motionless to change ranges but now shift in between gears is also difficult. Is it possible to need a new clutch already or is the problem a damaged transmission. I have used this tractor hard but have been kind when shifting. Thank in advance for any input.

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TomG
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2000-10-24          20826

What you describe is normal for the manual transmission on my Ford 1710. The gears are synchronized and the ranges are not. However, the gears shift easily while moving, even between forward and reverse.

The tractor doesn't have enough hours on it for the transmission synchronizers to be worn or broken in ordinary use. I'd make a check on the clutch pedal to make sure there is free travel at the top. A dragging clutch would create the problem you describe. If the tractor has a 2-stage clutch, you might also make sure the PTO stops when the clutch is fully depressed.

Most clutch linkage adjustments are easy to find and are self-explanatory--at least compared to transmission repairs. I don't believe that my tractor has any adjustments on the shifting linkage itself, but maybe some tractors do. At least that would be another potential problem source with an easy fix.

If the clutch is fully releasing, you might try double clutching. It's not a fix, but it might help diagnosis the problem. With the hand throttle set for idle speed and moving forward; depress the clutch, shift into neutral, release the clutch and give a burst of RPM with the foot throttle, depress the clutch and shift into a lower gear. Going up a gear is the same, but without the burst of RPM.

Double clutching helps match the speeds of the input and output transmission shafts, which is what the synchronizers do. If a transmission shifts easily when doubles clutching, but hard without, the transmission synchronizers are suspect. However, each gear has its own synchronizer, and ordinarily all gears wouldn't develop problems at the same time. A dragging clutch is the best and easiest bet.





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Eric Edwards
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2000-10-26          20908

Thanks TomG for the explaination. I will try the double clutch test, but by your post it sound as if the clutch either needs an adjustment or to be replaced. I have noticed now and again a slight grinding feeling on the clutch pedal just recently. Would this back up the bad clutch theory? It sounds like it would to me. I am wondering if I can ruin somthing by using the tractor in it's present condition. To answer another question you had. Yes, the PTO stops when the two stage clutch is fully depressed. I'm assuming that this PTO clutch is independent of the drive system and can be OK even when the 1st stage is cooked. I'm not looking forward to splitting my machine in half so I hope an adjustment will help. I have a tech manual and will try that. Thanks again, Eric in ME ....

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TomG
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2000-10-27          20933

As far as I know, clutch pedal free travel is the only adjustment for a double clutch. The adjustment is usually a threaded rod and nut (secured with a cotter key) in the clutch linkage. About an inch of free travel is a typical setting. Too little free travel and the pilot bearing may drag, and the clutch may partially release when hitting bumps. Too much play and the clutch may not fully release, which could cause hard shifting. Anyway, it's an easy thing to check.

The fact that your PTO stops when the clutch pedal is fully depressed probably indicates that the clutch is fully releasing, and clutch drag is not the answer to the hard shifting. As far as I know, double clutches are serviced and replaced as single units. I suppose it's possible that a transmission clutch could drag when the PTO clutch releases, but such a condition wouldn't be adjustable. Transmission clutch drag could be checked directly (IN 2WD) by blocking up the rear wheels (one wheel will do if you trust the differential to release), putting the tractor in gear, and pushing in the clutch to see if the rear wheel(s) stop turning.

If the grinding you describe is when the clutch is released, it could be the pilot, or throwout, bearing. Too little free play, or a broken return spring could be the explanation, and that's something that should be fixed. If the grinding is when the clutch is in, it also could be the pilot bearing. The bearing on some tractors is exposed and has a grease zirc that is easy to miss when greasing a tractor.

If clutch drag isn't the answer, about the only other thing I can think of that wouldn't require a major tear down is the shift linkage itself. Most transmissions are operated by control arms on the side of the case. It's possible for arms or linkage to be bent, and it's possible that there are adjustment or lubrication points in some linkages. Going through a repair manual is the best way to sort out the transmission linkage.

In terms of whether continued operation would be hard on the tractor; it would be pretty irresponsible to say. I will say that my Ford 1710 is currently down because the 4wd won't engage. It's probably a broken shifting fork, and probably will require removal or the differential assembly to repair. I noticed after I bought the tractor that the 4wd lever was welded back on to its collar. I imagine the previous owner was having a hard time and just jammed the 4wd into gear. Now, it's me that has the repair job. The best I can say is that tractors are not designed so things have to be jammed to get them to work. If they don't work easily, there could be something mechanically wrong, or maybe poor operating technique. Either way, it's best to attend to the problem.
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TomG
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2000-10-27          20938

Guess I could add that there are obvious safety issues in blocking up a wheel and running a tractor, but I was delayed. About the time I posted the above, a truck came unannounced to haul away my tractor for a probably very expensive repair.

I guess clutch drag could be tested (in 2wd) by blocking up a wheel, and trying to rotate it by hand with the transmission in neutral, and then with the transmission in gear by with the clutch in. There shouldn't be much difference in how much effort is required. Another way might be to find an incline where the tractor barely rolls with the transmission in neutral. If it doesn't roll with the transmission in gear but with the clutch in, then the clutch probably is dragging.

I'd probably do it by blocking and running the tractor, because I tend to go for direct observation of things. However, I'd keep my safety wits about me.
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Eric Edwards
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2000-10-28          20964

Tom, I will check the adjustment right off but but anything more intensive will unfortunately have to wait. The tractor is located on a building site. No cover, no electricity, basically in the woods. I will carefully try your recommendation for ascertaining the problem and will have to make a judgement call as to whether to keep using it or not. Perhaps by snowfall I'll have the foundation capped over and electricity for lights etc. In the past I've found the JD manuals to be excellent, even for a backyard mechanic like myself. Do you think a clutch replacement is to ambitious for the average person to attempt? Thanks again, I'll keep you posted although it may be awhile. ....

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Roger L.
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2000-10-29          20978

Eric, Tom, I have to join this party....not only do I like the 1050/70/90 series JDs, but nothing is more fun than long distance diagnoses! To begin with, it does sound like the clutch/throwout bearing combo is going west. But having said that, I don't see how it could be the clutch at 250 hours unless the DPO (Dread Previous Owner) favored semi-deliberate abuse. An example of that would be keeping the clutch pushed in while reving the motor to speed up the loader instead of taking the time to shift to neutral. A tractor clutch ought to go just about indefinitely. 2500 hours would be more reasonable than 250. BTW, Eric, could you elaborate on what you mean by "hard shifting"? My guess is that it is physically difficult to move the shift lever enough to get it to go from one gear to another when standing still, cluch disengaged, with the engine running. Do the gears grind or is it just hard to move the lever? In other words, does it feel like the rotating clutch is dragging on the transmission shafts, or is the lever just having a hard time moving gears because the shifting dogs are not sliding easily on the shifting rails? Trying to shift with the engine running vs shut off will help make that determination... It can be subtle.
Right now, my first guess would be free play adjustment. Second guess would be that the oil in the transmission is low or gone. Third would be that the clutch pressure plate or flywheel has grown a surface coating of rust from sitting with the clutch engaged...This being a known problem with this tractor in wet climates and can cause the clutch to drag and even freeze up. Fourth would be the clutch or shifting dog rails. No, this job is not beyond the average mechanic at all. Few jobs are.
Where are you located? It would take any good mechanic only a few minutes to hop on your machine and tell you whether you need to take a closer look at the clutch or not.

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TomG
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2000-10-29          20980

Roger, nice to have you in this. Party hardy. Your experience here is much more extensive and recent than my own. It would be nice if the problem was a clutch adjustment or transmission linkage problem. I'm not sure much else can be accessed with doing the splits.

I generally agree that almost anything is within the capacity of a backyard mechanic. My major tear-downs and repairs are on trucks, not tractors. I never got myself into much trouble by just plowing through a repair manual, and I did manage to touch just about everything that moves in my old Econoline one time or another.

There is a 'but,' however. I had my 1710 trucked off to the dealer, rather than tear it down myself, because I don't have a shop. When I started doing major tear downs, I found that I kept needing 'generic special tools' (snap ring pliers, drifts, plastic hammers etc.) that most casual wrenches don't have. A few genuine special tools were needed as well. I also found I couldn't anticipate all the parts needed. Every time I couldn't do something easily with the tools I had, or needed a part, I'd just go and buy one. My trouble is that now I'd spend a lot of time trying to find all these tools again, if I even still have them. And, it's a 20-minute drive to the nearest stores. None of them are parts or tool stores. In addition, I'd be working on dirt in a 25' x 14' arctic shelter tent. It does have electricity though. I think that various shop jacks and stands are needed to split a tractor. An over-heard hoist would be nice. Those, I know I don't have.

In my case, I'm pretty sure that the differential assembly has to be removed to fix my 4wd problem, which can be done without a split. However, I'm also pretty sure that I'd be inviting disaster trying to do it in the middle of the country at this time of year and without a reasonably well organized shop. Ironically, we rebuilt our camp this summer, rather than an equipment shed. About a month ago my wife tells me that she thinks I need a shed too. I was lazy and wanted to declare the building season over. Several weeks later, the tractor breaks, no doubt due to the DPO. Sure wish I had a shed. ....

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Eric Edwards
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2000-10-31          21047

Thanks to all for your interest. I had a couple of busy days and am only now checking my e-mail. I also haven't been back to my building site do to the weather here in ME and therefore I don't have much to add. I have been building a ICF foundation for my house and woodshop and will hopfully pour the concrete into the permanent EPS foam forms in a week or so. My hope is to put some pockets in place for steel to support a nice chainfall for projects like splitting tractors etc. I've never had a heated, covered space to work in and am happy just thinking about it. But right at the moment a teardown is out of the question. Roger, to answer your question, there isn't any grinding of gears pe se but a grinding feeling coming though the clutch pedal. It feels like sand or metal on metal. The gear shift does not want to be pushed into the next gear. The same with the range shifter. When I first got the tractor in the spring it shifted very easily, not at all like my 750 which would grind gears if you were impatient. I will try to shift when the tractor is shut off as well and report back. Two separate emails sent to me have stated that they had to split their JD tractors because of shifting problems only to find the clutches in good shape. However they found the splines that everything runs on either rusted or gummed up and that after a cleaning, the problem was solved. I have a hard time understanding how things can get oxidized when hyd oil is in constant contact with the parts but the machine has been out all summer and we have had a lot of rain. I'll check back when I have more info. Thanks again. ....

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bud in oh.
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2000-10-31          21055

Eric, there is no oil around the clutch packs or clutch shaft and it's the clutch packs that slide on the splines that could be rusted and or gummed up.In fact if you look under the sheild on the right side of tranny by the brake peddles you will see a little screen. You can remove the screen and shine a light in and see the clutch assembly. The problem is clutch dust and moisture. budinohio. ....

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Roger L.
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2000-10-31          21063

Eric, I wish those guys had posted on this board, because I think that they might have information worth us hearing. My hat is off to them; I have seen the very problem that they are mentioning in other machines. In fact, a variation on this has plagued the BMW motorcycles since 1970! Here is how it works, and have them email me if they can add to this description:
The clutch friction disk on most every car, tractor, and whatever has internal splines that mate with the external splines on the transmission input shaft. This allows the friction disk to slide lengthwise up to about half an inch along the transmission input shaft while still being held so that it cannot rotate unless it rotates the transmission along with it. It is a nifty way of doing things because it allows you to take a transmission off by just unbolting the mounts and pulling the transmission backwards: thereby unplugging the input shaft from the clutch friction disk. And it automatically lets the friction disk move fore and aft about a quarter of an inch to compensate for face wear and the movement of the pressure plate each time you clutch the tractor. BTW, These splines are always run dry - no oil - (which would only attract dirt) and a little rust and dust make a pretty good dry lubricant anyway..... So what goes wrong with the splines? Well, on some machines they will get a little bit too much rust and dust and clog up the splines. Or some oil sneaks in there and makes a paste..sometimes the heat treat on the splines is not quite right and the clutch plate will vibrate and wear some rough spots on the transmission shaft splines. In short, anything that tends to keep the clutch friction disk from sliding smoothly will keep the disk touching the pressure plate even when you are pushing the clutch in. The effect is just like a dragging disk brake, except when it happens to the clutch it is the transmission shaft which is dragging and making it hard to get out of and into gear. ....

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Eric Edwards
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2000-11-06          21278

OK I'm back again, If I understand all of this correctly then all I have to do might be to clean this area of movement. I am also assuming that the only way to get at it is to split the trans. in half. I have been to my lot this week working although not using the 1070 much. I checked the free play on the clutch and it seems within spec.. Also I did the shift while engine off and while running. Shifting seemed the same and actually was tolerable. What I mean is that I didn't have to use force to move the shift or range. Come to think of it.. in the past, shift always seemed to get worse the longer I worked the machine. I checked the trans. oil and It was topped off to the top line but it also read use low vis. oil which I didn't last time I added oil. When I purchased the tractor in the spring it was down 3+ gallons and because I had a new 5 Gallon bucketof reg JD hyd oil, which I had bought for my 750, I used it. Could this have an effect? Could the cool weather and temp change the viscosity enough to emulate the low vis. oil and therefore improve shifting performance. This sounds a little wierd but I don't have any other explanation as to why only now with temps in the 40's does the shifting improve. Any takers? On another note, I spent 3 hrs on Sat. trying to remove a rear brake drum on my 750 which I need to sell. It was frozen. Finally I used wedges to force the cover off to find eveything rusted and badly pitted. I've ordered all new parts as I pretty well damaged everything accept the pads and springs. I'm glad my 1070 has wet brakes. ....

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Roger L.
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2000-11-06          21286

It depends on whether the splines are just dirty or if they have been had a burr raised by the chattering of the friction disk. Cleaning the splines won't hurt, but as you say, the problem of getting to the location to clean them is a big one.
Besides which....we now have two pieces of new information with 1. the oil and 2. the longer you run it the harder it is to shift it. About the oil, I believe that the JD 750 uses a trans/hydraulic fluid in the gear box. If so, this is a low viscosity fluid in the first place, so it should be fine. If you actually used a high viscosity lube like an old fashioned gear or differential oil (80/90wt) then this stuff should get thinner as the tractor runs for a while and so common mechanical thinking would be that it should eventually shift easier...not harder. In either case, it wouldn't seem to be the oil viscosity. Which is too bad. Hey! wait a minute...I wonder what the previous owner put in there? The only thing that I can think of that one could mix with the oil and affect shifting would be a product like B&G's extreme pressure lubricant additive. This product comes in a sqeeze tube and is made to add to differentials - not to transmissions. It contains some waxes specifically formulated to make sliding more difficult. In the transmission, it might make it difficult for the shifting dogs to slide on the shifting rails. Its real purpose is to prevent limited slip differentials from chattering on corners. I'll admit that it is a reach, but if nothing else turns up, it might be worthwhile to flush and refill the box.
Right now I am also wondering about what you said about it becoming more difficult to shift after it runs for awhile. This implies that something is heating up and binding. Either the clutch or the shift rails themselves. On most tractors, that shifter mechanism can be taken right off of the top of the transmission by removing half a dozen bolts. Is this possible on the 1070? If so, it would be the easiest mechanical thing to check.
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Roger L.
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2000-11-06          21287

Yep. Those brakes seem to get wet and rust all too easily. Not a good design. I made several mistakes the first time I rebuilt this sort of brake. First thing was that although the drums were badly pitted, I didn't lathe the rust pits out of the drum, just sanded it. When I put it together, the rust pits ripped little pieces out of the shoes... which got smeared onto the drums and within a couple of days the brakes worked worse than they had before I started. The second thing was that I didn't order 4 new brake springs. I just replaced the worst pair of them, and of course another spring broke just as soon as the brakes got a few miles on them. :-( ....

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Kenny
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2000-11-06          21289

Eric, as Roger said the 50 series brakes do tend to rust up from condensation build-up. There should be a hook shaped vent tube on top of the brake housing. It is important to make sure this tube is open. I also like to cut about a 1 inch piece of the gasket out near the bottom of the cover to help air circulation in the brake housing. I think deere sealed them in case of running in deep water, but most people never get in water that deep. As far as the 1070, it sounds as if you might have a warped clutch disk or pressure plate that gets worse as it heats up with use. The only solution for this would be to split the tractor and replace all damaged parts.There are special tools involved with adjusting this clutch assembly so it is probably best to leave this to your dealer unless you have access to these tools. It doesn't sound like oil viscosity is your problem. ....

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Roger L.
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2000-11-07          21293

Thanks for the input Kenny. Eric, I've come up with just about every "white elephant" mechanical oddity that I've seen in my career that might cause hard shifting without having to split the tractor, and they are certainly worth trying....particularly the shifting mechanism in the top cover. I just got fooled on one that had that as a problem when I thought it was a dragging clutch. But don't be surprised if it just turns out to be the heat built up after a couple of hours worsening some clutch warp just as Kenny says. Regardless of the white elephants, most hard shifting is simple clutch drag, and the cure is to rebuild the clutch. Try the simple things first, but be prepared for a clutch job.
As for the brakes, cutting out some of the bottom gasket is a good idea. I'll try that on the next one that I do. They do need more lower drain. The vent tube does tends to get plugged, and everyone who owns one ought to run a wire through it twice a year. The older series of JD compacts had many things in common with the rice-field tractors from which they were derived (rebadged). This old brake design is common to most Japanese imports of the period. It looks like a questionable attempt to deal with a situation where brakes get splashed all the time...like in a ricefield. Maybe they would have been better off to go ahead and let them get wet but allow them to drain more easily. The modern disk brakes are a much better solution. ....

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Eric Edwards
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2000-11-10          21367

I like the idea of making a drain by eliminating a little gasket. I am on my way to pick up my brake parts now. I did not order any springs however. The drum, plate and lever were history. I filled/topped off the Hyd oil in the 1070 w/ JD hyguard reg oil. They also sell a low vis. hyguard product which is what I suppose this machine calls for. When I bought the 1070 It had recently been serviced, however it was down some 3+ gallons of Hyd oil. I haven't had any leakage so I assumed it was due to being hooked up to a new hyd implement before the sale (although, it doesn't have a power beyond installed???). Anyways, I'm glad that I haven't ruined anything by using this product. I am going to continue to run the 1070 until either some other symton develops or I have a place to work on it. I need it to for for a couple of weeks of logging and after that,casual use. What's this you say about special equipment being needed for a clutch overhaul? I was under the impression that I could do this myself with a few tools and a lot of time. Shifting hasn't been so bad during this cool weather but the grinding sensation through the clutch pedal is a little unnerving. Thanks to all for your insights ....

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TomG
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2000-11-11          21387

I did a quick check in my Ford 1710 repair manual for the procedure to separate the engine and transmission. No mention is made for 'special tools' required. A rolling jack, a stand, chocks and wood blocks were mentioned, but I guess they aren't too specialized. A splitting maul wasn't mentioned, but I understand a sledge or something usually is needed. It looks like the entire steering mechanism goes with the front half, so a separating fork isn't needed, and nothing I read indicates a need for even a generic puller. Looks like a fairly ordinary tool box plus a shop jack might do the trick for my tractor. Sounds like you're on track for using the tractor and repairing it at your convenience, and that's good.

I think that 'doggy' throw-out bearings often can be run for quite awhile, and that the risk of further damage if they fail isn't too high. And, there are some things that can minimize use of the clutch. I think it was Roger who mentioned that revving the engine to speed up the loader with the clutch in increases wear on the bearing. That was a good tip for me too. Actually, gears can be shifted most times without even using the clutch--ease off the throttle, pop it into neutral, play with the rpm and it'll probably pretty much slide into the next gear. Transport drivers say it's easier on some transmissions if the clutch isn't used. I don't know if I can go from forward to reverse on my 1710 without using the clutch, but there's a good chance that it can be done fairly smoothly. ....

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Harold Koenig
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2000-12-23          22735

I just wanted to add to this thread that I have a new JD1070 with 110
hours on it. Since about 10 hours, actually since I got it, I have
found it erratic in shifting ranges. Sometimes it just doesn't want to
"pop in" to any selected range. Not sure what this means. So far, it
will pop in sooner or later but I've never been able to determine extacly what
changed so that the resistance would go away. ....

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Eric Edwards
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2000-12-26          22832

Harold, It's been a number of weeks since my last post on this problem. I haven't been using the 1070 very hard but only to clean up a building site and rake the chewed up areas left by trucks before the ruts freeze hard. The cold weather has brought with it less problematic shifting but range shifting is never what I would call smooth, especially going into low. It's odd that a new machine would act the same way. Perhaps my tractor has alway been that way as well while changing ranges. As far as the gear shifting goes, It has smoothed out a little but is not as smooth as when I purchased it. My dealer told me to adjust the clutch a little more and so I will. Good luck. ....

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