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TC45D wont move when hot

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tinstar751
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 5 Ohio
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2009-05-19          162850

Hello, this is my first post to this forum. Let me first say thanks for the info on other topics that I have receied by just reading other postings. On to the problem. I have a TC45D that runs and drives fine until about an hour into it. It just stops moving like the pumps are not pumping any more or a tranny that slips when hot. It gets slower and slower until it just wont go. Any ideas of where to start looking?

Thank you


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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2009-05-20          162853

Hello, welcome to tractorpoint!

Are you sure it's heat related?

There may be sediment in the fuel tank. When the tractor sits for awhile the sediment settles to the bottom of the tank. Driving around causes sloshing that mixes sediment in with the fuel, suction from the fuel pick-up draws it in and eventually the pick-up plugs. Turn the tractor off for awhile and all the sediment settles again. Lather, rinse, repeat.

....

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tinstar751
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 5 Ohio
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2009-05-20          162857

Thanks for the reply. At this point, I will try anything. the reason I suspected heat related was because the tractor "runs" fine, it just doesnt move after 45min or so. I havnt messed with this type setup at all, most of my work on tractors has been old JD stuff. Thanks again for the feedback. ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2009-05-20          162858

The sediment in the fuel theory is probably wrong if the engine doesn't struggle or stall when hot.

It just stops moving? Any weird noises?

I take it this is a hydro transmission? ....

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auerbach
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2168 West of Toronto
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2009-05-20          162859

Cover the rad, start it, and see if there's a problem after 10-15' when it's hot -- but not stirred up or been working for an hour. ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada
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2009-05-20          162860

The hydraulic fluid level is at the correct level, right?

Have you checked the temperature of the hydraulic fluid? Is it actually hotter than it should be, or is it just presumed to be hot after an hour of working?

I've heard of some hydrostat systems that incorporate a heat sensor activated shut-down to prevent damaging the system if it runs low or just gets too hot. If that's the case and the rad was clogged with debris for instance, it could cause a heat related safety to kick in.

Best of luck. ....

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tinstar751
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 5 Ohio
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2009-05-20          162864

Thanks for the suggestions. The fluid level is ok, no weird noises, just slows down and then finally stops. Let it sit for 30-45 min, runs fine for another 45 min to an hour. I will check the cooler again (looked clear)and also see if there is some sort of temp sensor system on it. i dont have a manual for it which isnt helping any. I called the dealer and they said they have never heard of such a thing. Just my luck!!! Let me know if any of you have any other ideas.

Thanks again ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2009-05-20          162865

Could be the chrage pump is on its wa out if heat is causing it to degrade. Wrong oil will cause areation leading to overheating and degradation.

Are the tires' pressure within spec? Driveline bindup may be taxing the driveline if so.

I wonder if the brakes could be dragging to the point they heat and swell up--45 minutes is nothing in the scheme of things to have a large machine like that cool down.

Too high of gear range will tax the system and cause premature heat buildup too.

The drive line if it's like my TC33D which is similar but not identical to yours has a relief valve--yours may be weak.

Plugged hydrostat filter(s)? ....

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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2009-05-21          162873

Quote:
Originally Posted by earthwrks | view 162866
Murf, yer slippin' ol' boy--"their"? Been hangin' 'roun' Kenny too long I see. LOL Are you feeling a little "lose"?


"Could be the chrage pump is on its wa out if heat is causing it to degrade. Wrong oil will cause areation leading to overheating and degradation."

Ummm, "chrage pump"? "wa out"? "areation"?

Looks like "Murf:1 Earthwerks:3" on the 'lose' spelling bee. LOL


Best of luck. ....

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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
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2009-05-21          162878

Has the fluid and filter(s) for the transmission been changed recently? If so was it working fine before?

Is it way past due to fluid and/or filter change?

Following up on couple of EW, be sure the brakes are not set and try using lower range. ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2009-05-21          162886

gay! Murg you pasted the testes--uou kin spill.

Murf you can proceed to the next part of the test--visual.

Q: How many fingers am I holding up?

A: YOU ARE CORRECT--ONE! ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
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2009-05-21          162887

Quote:
Originally Posted by earthwrks | view 162886
gay! Murg you pasted the testes


ACK, thanks for burning that visual image in my brain.
....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2009-05-22          162895

Rutroh! hmmm--I was trying spell like Kenny would have, buuuut it didn't quite come out that way--not even close. ....

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Lesharoturbo
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 6 Michigan
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2009-05-25          162955

I have a similar problem with my TZ22DA. After a 1/2 to 1 hour, it starts to lug the engine down (not moving and no implements moving). It will then speed up slowly to max rpm. It will continue to do this until I shut it down and let it sit. If it is sediment in the tank, how do I remove it? ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2009-05-25          162961

In your case it may not be sediment per se, but lack of fuel. I would remove the sedimant bowl and verify the filter is clean and not rusted, and the bowl clean too. There is a snot-like bacteria that grows in the bowl most likely since the bowl is clear and gets some light. Carb cleaner, starting fluid or even gasoline will get rid of the bacteria.

If that doesn't do the trick, verify the fuel cap is vented to atmosphere---simply remove the cap or make it very loose and see if the issue goes away. (If the cap's vents are plugged a vacuum is created and won't let fuel flow.) If it does cure the problem either clean the vents in the cap or buy a new cap. ....

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Lesharoturbo
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 6 Michigan
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2009-05-25          162962

Thanks earthwrks! I have already cleaned out the fuel bowl and filter. They were fairly clean with a little residue in the bowl. I have not looked at the filler cap yet, I will do that tomorrow.

Bernie ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2009-05-25          162964

For reference my blue's cap has two cylindrical passages on the underside of the cap.

My buddy found this venting issue to be true with his 23hp zero-turn mower after mowing some nasty, wet grass mixed with mud that packed itself around the cap like so much adobe brick. He wasn't so lucky though---he took it in for service to find it. Ouch.

Also, this past spring my '03 Ram with the Cummins in it was running way past E---"fumes" basically. And the Check Engine light came on. I stopped for fuel, removing the cap and the light turned off. Normally, it works the other way for vehicles with gasoline evaporative fuel systems where the system is under vacuum, so I'm told. All my gassers are pre-emissions, or equipment. ....

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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5275 South Carolina
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2009-05-26          162970

lesharoturbo, if still having same problem when it happens again, removed fuel fiter if gravity feed from tank or open line but see if fuel is still running at a good flow. If not then you have an issue above it. You could have a piece of trash in your tank that is getting sucked down on the fuel outlet but not totally blocking it.


tinstar, did you get your tractor working? If so what did you find to be the issue?
....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2009-05-26          162981

Gee Kenny I didn't think of that. That makes a you a pretty fart smeller...errr...I mean a smart feller, yeah that's it. ....

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Lesharoturbo
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 6 Michigan
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2009-05-30          163083

Well, It is still doing it. I removed the fuel cap when it started, but it continued to tach up and down. When it did rev fully, it would lug down when I tried to start the mower deck.

I do believe it is a fuel problem. I will check for fuel flow tomorrow.

By the way, I found what looks like another fuel filter under the left rear fender (as you sit on it). Do any of you guys know where to get a replacement? I can't find a part number for it anywhere.

Bernie ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2009-05-31          163087

If the filter is an in-line kind with nipple barbs on each end, I'd replace it with an after-market one---cheap about $3. The better ones have a clear see-thru housing. ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
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2009-05-31          163088

According to www.messicks.com (where I buy my parts) they diagram shows only one filter (FILTER, ELEMENT 87300041
1 Needed for Job). The only parts at the tank appear to be a return line and the fuel gauge sending unit which run up the back of the tank and under a plastic or metal cover.

The diagram shows the fuel line coming off the bottom of the tank to the right of center (possibly) and running through another larger tube along with the return line to the filter bowl assembly. ....

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Lesharoturbo
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 6 Michigan
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2009-06-06          163250

Thanks for the info. There is an inline filter and it was seriously clogged. The number on it was 9611973. So far, it runs fine. I had to drain the tank and replace the filter. I have only had it running about 45 mins since, but it does seem to be fixed.

Bernie ....

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earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2009-06-07          163256

Did you buy the machine used? If so, did come from the south or a high-humidity/heat region ?

The reason I ask is it sounds like this was a problem for someone else before you since the Messicks.com site didn't indicate another filter.

I think I mentioned the "snot" in the filter bowl. I spent year and a half on the Gulf Coast and I constantly got the snot in the filter bowl. I don't know if it was something in the air there (extremely high levels of mold from the Hurricane) or the humidity, or what, or even the fuel source itself, but I have been back up nort' two years now and haven't snot in the bowl since.

Now that you know it's fuel-related, I would verify the contaminated fuel source by using some sort of white-colored-filter media in the tank's filler opening before you refuel. ....

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Lesharoturbo
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 6 Michigan
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2009-06-07          163280

No, I bought her new. She now has 150 hrs on her. The manual does mention a "primary" fuel filter but does not show it.

Float bowl was fairly clean, just a little sediment in it.

She runs great now, mowed for about 2hrs.

Bernie ....

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tinstar751
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 5 Ohio
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2010-09-23          174149

Sorry I have not been back. A little medical issue has kept me down. Anyway, no to your question. The tractor runs just fine. Fuel isn't the issue. It just slows to a crawl until you shut down and wait about 45min or so. ....

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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5275 South Carolina
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2010-09-24          174160

Quote:
Originally Posted by tinstar751 | view 174149
Sorry I have not been back. A little medical issue has kept me down. Anyway, no to your question. The tractor runs just fine. Fuel isn't the issue. It just slows to a crawl until you shut down and wait about 45min or so.


It could be a little confusing but look back at all asked of you and update us on those questions and suggestions. kt ....

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