Work Light for L3130
blizzard
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 282 Central Maine Pics |
2003-10-13 66100
I'm mounting a rear work light on my L3130. Fabbed a bracket to fit in the ROPS fold-down hole, as I never lower it.
I was hoping there was a connector for the light somewhere by the rear signal/tail lights but I cannot find one.
Before I remove the dash panel, does anyone have any info about the work light wiring that may be helpful?
Thanks, bliz
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Work Light for L3130
TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley |
2003-10-13 66106
Many newer compacts have an auxiliary outlet somewhere and I'd sure check for one. My Ford doesn't have one so I ran a circuit through an in-line fuse holder from the battery. There are a couple of blank fuse holders on the fuse block but running one from the battery seemed easier than adding a new circuit on the fuse block. An aux outlet is intended for such purposes as work lights. Most other aux circuits on a tractor are pretty well loaded so hooking work lights as a branch circuit would likely blow fuses.
It just took some heavy-duty auto wire, a crimping tool and assorted terminals. I hooked up front and back 55W lights with their own switches and used a 10A fuse. I placed the fuse holder as close to the battery as possible to minimize the length of unprotected wire. The ROSP makes a good enough ground. I also installed a twist lock receptacle for a magnetic hazard flasher and also use the receptacle for a trickle charger.
Anytime you add a circuit there is the possibility of blowing a main fuse if everything is My Ford has provision for a cigarette lighter so I figure the main fuse is adequate for my added lighting circuit. The starter switch on my Ford does not disable aux circuits during pre-heat and starting but some systems may. In that case everything on a circuit ran from the battery should be off when pre-heating and stating. I always turn everything off anyway.
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Work Light for L3130
Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York Pics |
2003-10-13 66112
I often like to run a new power lead right next to the original from the battery ofr off the starter so the rear work lites work seperatly of the rest of the lighting and a different fused circuit. By doing this when you go down the road it is only on if you put it on, if you don't need it it of coarse isn't on. The other side of it is you have not hurt the integrity of the factory system. ....
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Work Light for L3130
blizzard
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 282 Central Maine Pics |
2003-10-13 66116
There is a 'work light' fuse in the fuse box, but I guess the lead is still under the dash somewhere. The best solution seems to run a separate fused lead from the battery... The supplied circuit is only 7.5 Amps and running a new wire would probably be easier than taking the dash apart.
Thanks, bliz ....
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Work Light for L3130
blizzard
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 282 Central Maine Pics |
2003-10-13 66136
Hi again, I found the connector just behind the seat!
Light works, still thinking of taking a feed off a main circuit as this one is only 7.5 Amps (one 55 W light)
Thanks for the feedback, bliz ....
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Work Light for L3130
TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley |
2003-10-14 66173
The aux circuit at 7.5A would manage 1 55W light as you found out or two 35W ones OK (one 55W light draws about 4.5A at 12V).
If you ever wanted to hook up another light the circuit wouldn't be adequate so maybe a circuit from the battery or starter solenoid would be good. If the starter solenoid connection has a convenient nut on a threaded shaft it's just a mater of crimping an appropriate sized terminal on some wire ahead of a fuse holder. You do have to be sure the unprotected length of wire is well protected mechanically and against shorts and it's the same deal with the battery. I use a terminal under the hex nut of the battery cable lug. A circuit from the solenoid is a shorter run than from the battery. One from the battery may be a bit easier to make and a bit more protected. ....
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Work Light for L3130
blizzard
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 282 Central Maine Pics |
2003-10-15 66273
Thanks for the input Art & Tom.
The only problem with the 55W halogen worklight is that it makes the headlights seem so DIM!
I pulled one headlight bulb and it is a 25W dual filament non-halogen bulb but seems to have a base like an H3 halogen. I'm wondering if a 25-35 watt halogen is available as a replacement.
I'm seriously considering mounting a light on the front guard, as the headlights are nearly useless with the FEL.
Feedback always appreciated, bliz
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Work Light for L3130
TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley |
2003-10-15 66285
I've heard a couple stories about people melting things with replacement halogen bulbs. My factory headlights also are about useless due to the loader. I have a front work light, but if I had to drive by night with it, I'd use a narrower beam light. ....
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Work Light for L3130
Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999 Posts: 7249 Toronto Area, Ontario, Canada Pics |
2003-10-15 66289
As has been mentioned previously, the factory lights, and even the wiring harness, is often lacking. Especially for tasks such as snow removal where you are often working in reduced visibility conditions, not just in darkness.
We have used almost every type of auxillary lighting known. After much experimentation we have settled on a few 'standard' choices depending on the location and light requirements.
For front lights we use either; standard pickup truck snowplow-type lights mounted on the grill guard, which gives high & low beam, plus extra marker lights and flashers for signal or 4-ways, or 'driving-type' lights for additional light at minimum cost and electrical draw.
For rear facing lights the usual choice is 'tractor-type' flood lights, several manufacturers make rubber mounted flood lights specifically for such task, the ones we use even have a weather-proof switch mounted in the back of the housing. This is very handy since you can choose what lights to turn on and off while not affecting the tractors basic light package, REALLY handy for snowblowing since you can light up the 'up wind' side of your work while not lighting up the plume of snow itself.
Most aftermarket light kits are available now as 'minimum wiring' kits, they are complete with relay, wiring, etc., but require NO SWITCH, they are controlled by a wireless remote keyfob, just like the keyless entry systems widely available today. Not only does this make for a really easy install, but it is really handy.
Regardless of the type of lights selected, the most convenient way to hook them up is to use a light wire to a new switch which controls a relay and run new wire, nice heavy stuff so there is no loiss or heat problems, as long as it is fused properly there is no risk.
If you get into big light systems you may find you will need to upgrade your alternator, in most cases the easiest way to do this is to see if there is a larger aternator available for your machine such as if it had a factory cab on it. If this is not the case check with a local alternator & starter shop, in a lot of cases they will have a larger aftermarket unit available, or one from a larger 'industrial' engine of the same brand as your tractor. We do this with the 'Bota's all the time.
Best of luck. ....
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Work Light for L3130
blizzard
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 282 Central Maine Pics |
2003-10-31 67600
I finally got around to adding some front auxillary lights on my L3130HST. Went the cheap route with a set of very compact "fog pattern" aftermarket 55W halogens. I had earlier mounted a rear work light,(see thread) so I mounted a 30A automotive relay close to the battery and ran a 18 gauge wire from that switch to control it. The relay only needs 166 milli-amps. A weatherproof inline 'mini fuse' holder attached to the battery with a 15A fuse protects the system. I shortened the factory leads and used 12 gauge wire for the hot side, lights are individually grounded to the mounting bolts.
The lights are on the top of the brush guard, which lets me raise the FEL more than the factory lights do, without getting unstable or blocking the view ahead. They really make working at night a lot safer, I am no longer 'light blinded' by the rear work light.
Thanks to all who contributed their suggestions and experiences. blitz
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Work Light for L3130
AV8R
Join Date: Oct 2003 Posts: 882 North Central Wisconsin Pics |
2003-10-31 67676
Can anyone tell me if there is a "work light" circut on my BX? I will be needing some light in front when blowing snow, and I can already tell the "Improved" factory headlights will not be up to scratch. Thought of mounting aux lights to the ROPS. Thoughts anyone?
Thanks. ....
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Work Light for L3130
Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4297 Southwest MiddleTennessee Pics |
2003-10-31 67677
My front and rear facing work lights are mounted to the ROPS. I have pics of the front facing in my profile pics. I got the lights for $38. They come in a complete kit. The biggest part of the fun is snaking the wires through the ROPS which is not all that bad you you use a coat hanger or clothes line wire. I fabbed up some pig tail "Y" adapters for the rear facing lights which is what you may have to do in your case. Art can tell you better than I can as what light kits Kubota offers. ....
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