Go BottomOutfitting a new B7800
 | earthexp
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 6 Dahlonega 
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2003-08-19 62162
Although my dealer has been helpful and patient with me on my first tractor purchase, I still have some concerns as the shop outfits my B7800 for delivery later this week.
I just want to make sure that I have everything I need to extend the life of the tractor given the demmands it will face on my small farm in northern Georgia. I have a two acre garden that I'll take on with a Fred Cain 2 bottom plow, a planter, a digger, and a Curtis TMA120 tiller; two acres of pasture I'll cut with an SQ600 cutter; I'll also getting an LA402 loader for moving compost and maintaining logging trails (should I get a quick release kit?). I'll also be dragging logs and I wondered if I needed a tow hook to better control the weight distribution on the tow bar. The dealer said I didn't, but I don't want to jerk that little tractor out of wack as soon as I get it! I just want to make sure that these implements are the best choices for the B7800 so that I will not abuse the tractor too much. (I almost went with the a L3110, but could not quite afford it.) I also need a spreader, a spayer, and a post hole auger, and some day, a backhoe if the little tractor can take it. As I have only used tillers, hand-planters, lawnmowers and weedeaters until now, ANY advice on implements, operation, maintanence would be greatly appreciated.
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| amnbrzacr
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 10 Pennsylvania
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2003-08-26 62715
I'd go for the bigger tractor personally. Sounds as though you'll be using it alot. Some of the equipment you talk of using may be somewhat taxing on that machine. I'd get at least 25 hp or more. ....
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 | DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada 
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2003-08-26 62718
The 7800 has 30 horses, so I think you are on track.
It will do all the work you have outlined including moving the logs with the right equipment. And it will run a small to moderate size backhoe (6.5 to 7.5 feet)with no problem.
You will soon find through experience which ground speeds and gears to choose for different types of work.
I regularly use my 4115 (same size as the 7800, a bit less HP) to move my fifth wheel around and into it's parking spot. The trailer weighs at least 3500 pounds and the tractor, properly operated, moves it with ease.
The only area I don't know about is the 2 bottom plow, but I am sure your dealer would have some experience there. Would a just a rototiller be more useful in you area? It takes quite a bit of weight and traction to plow in most soils. Running a tiller just takes the required amount of horses and low/slow gears. And the tiller, while slow, does all the work in one pass. ....
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| earthexp
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 6 Dahlonega
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2003-08-26 62719
Well, the deal is done now and I'm giving this B7800 a workout. The 22 net PTO horsepower is a little weak I agree, but it seems to be just enough so far to run a 5' bushhog. The engine is a 4 cylinder, so I guess I'll just keep it cranked up to get all its juice. The loader is working well so far. In the last two days I've bushhogged an acre of ten foot weeds then plowed it with my double bottom plow. I was surprised how well it pulled. Today I'll be spreading some lime with my spreader. The real test for the PTO weakness will probably be when I run the tiller. By the way, the B7800 has the same ground clearance as the new L3110 and even has a little more wheel base! This looks like more stability on hillsides to me when I'm dragging logs although the power shortfall probably negates that plus. My neighbor has a 3010 and loves it. He says I should have bought one, but it would have cost me another 2500 dollars with the loader combo and I was hoping that the smaller size would be more efficient in the long run if I can learn to use it effectively. I still have a lot to learn about everything! ....
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| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2003-08-26 62721
The B7800 has a wonderfully smooth and quiet engine. I am glad to hear it pulls a plow!
I don't understand how your 30 horse 4 cylinder gives you 22 at the PTO when my 3 cylinder/24 horse is rated for 20 (19.9) at the PTO. Might be a difference in HST effiency or maybe the way the engines are rated?
I think it is a good idea to keep the engine cranked up when doing hard work. It maximizes the oil flow through the HST and hence the oil cooling is enhanced. Or maybe better said: it will reduce transmission overheating.
If you need to go slow when doing heavy work, throttle up and "pedal" back to achieve the desired ground speed. ....
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| earthexp
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 6 Dahlonega
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2003-08-26 62725
My reasoning behind the bottom plow is to turn the soil more deeply and attempt to smother and rot more of the weed seeds that generally lie near the surface of the soil. The plow also effectively covers up stalks and roots out those rows of potatoes that were lost to the jungle over the summer.I have a four foot roto-tiller that I'll use when the stalks start to rot into the ground a little more. ....
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| earthexp
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 6 Dahlonega
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2003-08-26 62726
I'd like to think that the movement to more and more horsepower isn't necessarily a good idea all the time.
Part of my justification for the B7800, aside from $3000 savings compared to the 3130 w/loader, was that I might be able to keep the weight down enough to haul it with a Ford Explorer or the like. But now that I look at the 3000lb net weight with loader and bushhog on the B7800, I have my doubts about hauling it with anything less than a one ton truck. I still wonder how much weight I am elliminating compared to the 3130 combo. The difference is probably not signficant. ....
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| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2003-08-26 62729
You made exactly the right decision.
A 3130/HST/4WD weighs more than its name. 3305 pounds with just the ROPS. That is nearly twice the weight of your B7800.
You B7800 should fit nicely on a 16 foot flatbed and a standard 7000 pound GVW will give you some margin for error. Most 1/2 ton pick-ups will tow a load in that range. My Tundra will pull a 7000# trailer.
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| earthexp
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 6 Dahlonega
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2003-08-26 62742
Thanks for the info!
I'll do my best not to beat it up,
but getting those implements on and
off by myself can tax those side adjusters
on the three point hitch. I think I bent
one of the adjuster threaded rods trying to
raise a bush hog while attached to only
two points. (I was pulling the tractor
forward and back in attempt to shift the bush
hog into the right position)
It looks like it will still work,
but I'll probably have to replace it when I do
other maintenance some day. ....
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 | kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2003-08-26 62744
A Top and Tilt kit would really help getting those implements on and off. ....
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| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2003-08-26 62748
If at all possible, park those heavy implements an a hard surface, like concrete, and get a long steel pry bar. You can move them a lot or a little with such leverage.
I do know how you feel. I didn't have my new 4115 for a day before I put a divot in the hood. Sigh. ....
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| earthexp
Join Date: Sep 2003 Posts: 6 Dahlonega
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2003-08-27 62751
Thanks for the advice. I'll research the Top-and-Tilt kit and definitely keep some pry-bars handy from now on. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2003-08-27 62760
I keep my implements on timber blocks on soft ground. A pry bar with the tip sunk in the ground levers them around easily. My side leveler has a crank, when one lower link arm moves up the other moves down. If an implement isn't square to the tractor and one lower link pin is made, an implement can be nudged square with a pry bar or by moving the tractor a few inched forward or backward with a HST. I have gears and sink in the loader bucket and move the tractor with the bucket curl sometimes. A block left under the rear of an implement will keep the distance close enough for the top-link to reach.
I sometimes wish for TnT but mostly when I'm cutting side grades with a box scraper. sometimes I wish for quick hitches but I don't change implements a bunch of times during a day. When you get the hang of it, swapping implements goes quickly and easily with just the regular equipment. I used to struggle with them and use heavy hammers and all sort of stuff. It's rare now when I have to struggle to get the finger loose either putting them in or taking them out. It's just a knack that most owners develop their first tractoring summer.
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