Go Bottommowing 6 acres with a B7500
 | Rob-Fisher
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 21 Geelong Australia 
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2003-07-06 58943
Guys, Kept at this job till I finished it in one go:
conclusion, the seat needs some sort of suspension,I'm
going to need a back job after this, every hole you go down
adds up to one more compression of your spine, its hell.
The tractor needs more grunt to get over the ground
a bit quicker and with occasional stall it left me wondering would a more powerful engine have helped.I ran it at 1500RPM most of the time.Question: Could I run faster RPM than this?(Engine running in 15 hrs)
Regards Bob
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley 
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2003-07-06 58948
My impression is that most manufacturers now run their engines before delivery so the idea of keeping the rpm low is an old idea. Babying the engine may retard seating of the rings and not do the engine any good. I think many current break-in recommendations are to operate the tractor at a variety of rmp and throttle positions and avoid prolonged operation at full throttle. However, some manufacturers may place a rpm limitation during early break-in so I would check a manual or ask a dealer.
The suspensions on some seats are adjustable. There may be a spring tension adjustment nut under the front edge. Tire pressure also has a bunch to do with the ride, and tractor tire pressures are often much lower than most people think are desirable. A manual should give a tire pressure/load chart. Loads are likely pretty light for mowing and pressures in the middle of the chart should be adequate.
Some mechanics think that everybody with a loader should be running close to max pressures in the front tires. I've never figured out why and I usually have to let air out of the fronts after my Ford has been to the dealer. I only run high pressures when I'm doing heavy loader work.
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 | cutter
Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 1307 The South Shore of Lake Ontario, New York 
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2003-07-06 58950
My B2910 suggested break-in was to vary RPM and avoid WOT as Tom stated, that is what I did. I would not lug the motor, even while breaking in my Harley under their strict guidelines that limits RPM for extended periods they tell you not to lug the motor. This is my third new diesel and I can tell you after about 100+ hours you can "feel" the difference, just like in a gasoline engine. I continue to vary RPM unless I am mowing in heavy grass, usually within a few hundred of max PTO speed. That is the same way I operated our Ford/Case/JD construction hoe's years ago, including during the break-in period, and the ones I was responsible for were the best ones in the fleet (not bragging,just fact). ....
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| dcsmith01
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 25 ohio
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2003-07-06 58956
I have the same machine. I use a 60" rear mower that has never even come close to stalling. Even in heavy grass. As for the ride check your tire pressure. Someone gave me that tip on this board, my tires were at 24lbs. I backed them down to 14lbs, and have a much better ride. I hate the pop up's, I realize I repeated what Tom said... ....
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 | DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2003-07-06 58958
Bob, we know you have a 7500, is it HST? and which tires do you have? ....
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| Rob-Fisher
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 21 Geelong Australia
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2003-07-06 58986
Thankyou Mark ,for those words of encouragement. I also have the 'kubota bad back'
regards Bob ....
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| cutter
Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 1307 The South Shore of Lake Ontario, New York
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2003-07-06 58991
What is a Kubota bad back, is that different than an ordinary one? ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2003-07-07 59008
I've seen some pretty fancy soft riding seats at dealers but I don't know how universal they actually are. My wife bought me a new seat for birthday last year. I ended up going with a factory replacement because I wasn't certain the fancy seat would fit on my suspension mounts without a lot of fiddling. It also would have sat higher than the factory one and it had arm rests that I think would get in the way even though they could swing up. I suppose they are softer riding though and might be a good alternative for some people--especially people with stiff R4's who drive fast.
Ten years training for competitive soccer and distance running kept my life-long lower back problems at bay. After sports, doing my own roady work in my sideline sound buz didn't and left me with 18 mounts of PT while dodging surgery. Since then the best home preventative I've found is a book "Pain Free' by Peter Egoscue. A friend of my wife who is an OT mentioned it to her. That and a little bone crunching keeps me going with my Ford back, don't know why it wouldn't work for a bota back too. ....
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| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2003-07-07 59024
We are combining threads here.
I was complaining on another thread about tootin' along with my BX and running over a small rock or a root and doing a little bull riding along with my loader work.
I was trying to get Rob-Bob to tell us:
1) What sort of tires he is using,
2) What pressure he has in said tires(tyres?),
3) What rpm setting he is using for mowing, and,
4) Which gear range does he use for mowing (ok, one more)
5) aspirin or tylenol? ....
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| Rob-Fisher
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 21 Geelong Australia
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2003-07-08 59115
Sorry I was away yesterday.Thanks for input guys,Mark,1. their farm tyres,2.haven't
checked the pressure yet,book says 20psi,
3. mid PTO 2400, .
4.Two wheel drive for mowing,and cruising at 1500RPM HST
5.Last,Home brand asprin.
A better seat type suspension would be a big help I'm
sure.
regards Bob
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| DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2003-07-08 59122
Maybe someone else with more experience can comment on the engine and mowing speeds as I do not use a mowing deck.
But I am thinking you need more RPM.
My BX break-in said not to exceed 90 percent of max engine speed for the first 50 hours. Since they do not provide a tach, it is a mystery as to how the consumer is to determine exactly what the engine speed is.
If I were in your shoes, I would kick it up to whatever the book allows for break-in rpm and then if I still had stalling problems I would run in low range.
Tires: Back them way down. With your normal mowing implements installed and raised off the ground, lower the tire pressure until there is a moderate bulge in the sidewalls. Pay no attention to the pressure gauge readings until you are done.
The point is to get the full tire tread to lay flat on the ground and in doing so you will soften the ride considerably. You may end up with as little as 8 or 10 pounds of pressure in the rear tires.
The same tires you have are also installed on tractors that are several hundred pounds heavier, so pay attention to the inflated profile not the actual pressure poundage.
Note: you may well have to re-inflate the tires to do other jobs that require the three point hitch or the FEL to lift more weight.
Also, I don't know which type of tire is most appropriate for your ground, but replacing all the tires with Kubota's turfs or car and truck tires might improve the ride and traction. But any tire you use should have the pressure adjusted to provide a sidewall bulge while at its working weight.
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| CROWN1
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 1 WINCHESTER, VA
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2003-07-09 59222
I mow at PTO RPM around 2450 it has no problems I have a lot of hills and have never even come close to stalling the engine.
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 | Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
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2003-07-10 59246
These guys have hit you good. Way to low of RPM for mowing as you are well below the torque curve for any power for climbing a grade. Way to much air presure, let the air down till you get a full width tire print on the ground. The other thing is trying to remember not tho treat the hydro petal as a gas petal. You have to let up not push down to climb a grade. ....
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 | WillieH
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 543 New England 
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2003-07-11 59336
Rob -
Everything previously said here, OUCH!, I agree with whole-heartedly. I still on occasion present myself with the 'bota back problem, as I have presently been in a solid fiberglass back brace for nearly two weeks.(don't think it's from the 'bota, but riding an orange bronco doesn't help)
I have had gear units right along, and last year took advantage of a HST unit for my own. Though both drives have their place in the market without question, the HST must be gotten used to for directional "snappiness". As you cruise along mowing the lawn, I typically run at about 1800 - 2000 revs, I still forget on occasion that the directional foot pedal is very easily pitched in the opposite direction causing the sudden stop and jostling of the inerds.
As stated before, lower the tire pressure, increase your revs, and operate the tranny pedal with "respect", bearing in mind that the higher the throttle, the potentially "jerkier" the tractor may perform with quick or abrupt directional changes - engage slower - give the spinals a "break".
OK, I got into this chair...but I can't get out! OUCH! Help!
Willie H. ....
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| Rob-Fisher
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 21 Geelong Australia
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2003-07-12 59381
Guys I've been away for a few days, I do really appreciate
all your input.
I wasn't sure about the running in issue,(didn't read the book much)or even if it still applies these days, so I settled on 1500 because
the motor didn't seem to be revving its head off at this RPM.(and I'm always ready with a foot on the clutch)to disengage if its ready to stall.which brings me to another point I don't understand:I did't think the hydro
needed a clutch? motor to the drive part of it.
And thats interesting about treating the hydro as the gas pedal Art, because thats exactly what I do.
So the way I see it now is to go to 2.5k RPM and leave it at that.
Thanks for the input on the seat issue guys,I,ve got a very bad back and the hard ride over the hours takes its toll. Regards Bob ....
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| zedosix
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 23 Ontario, Canada
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2003-07-29 60424
I recently purchased a B7800 Hst with a 72" mmm. Since hour # 1 I have run it at full throttle. My dealer says not a problem. There is 58 hours on it now and most of it is from bushhogging and cutting grass. Great machine. It was taking about 6 hours to cut my lawn, so I added a new machine to the stable. A kubota zd21 zero-turn lawnmower. Wow. 5' cut but only takes 3-4 hours at most. Now let me tell you about back aches.... ....
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