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B2410 vs B7500

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Albert
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2002-09-26          42939

I'm new to this site, but you all seem to have a good perspective on Kubotas. What's the best to handle the following: Six acres of grass, to be cut weekly, large garden work like tilling, some front end loader work for snow, hauling, mulch etc. B2410 or B7500, both with belly mowers and FEL. I've got a BX but it's too low to handle the implements without bumping on the hills. Any help is appreciated. Al.

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2002-09-26          42945

The problem with the BX is not the small wheels or that it is close to the ground, but that the top link, as short as it appears, is too long. If you could crank the top of the implement closer to the tractor it wouldn't bump on rough terrain. I am working on a way to fix the problem. ....

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Albert
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2002-09-26          42946

Shows what I know. I was told that it was too LONG and that Kubota was developing a shorter one that would bring it closer to the tractor. I see that Tractor Supply Co. now sells one about three inches shorter. Thanx. ....

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AZMike
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2002-09-26          42947

I have a B7500 and mow 4 acres of bermuda grass weekly with a 60 inch Landpride rear mount mower. The tractor has plenty of power to do this even when its wet (at night).

I do not have a FEL, but do have rear forks to lift and haul stuff. The tractor has enough power to lift 4 railroad ties, although the front end was too light to go anywhere with them. I also have a 60 inch rear blade to maintain irrigation borders and it can push a lot of dirt. The rear limitation is when the borders get overgrown with grass and weeds the B7500 struggles to rip through the roots to move the dirt with a blade.

I got the B7500 over the larger tractors in the interest of keeping lawn compaction from tractor weight down to a minimum. Overall I have no complaints. ....

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Duane
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 53 Western PA
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2002-09-26          42948

I have a B7500 hydro and have similar chores to what you have. I own 4 acres of which most is lawn. Loader is great for digging up topsoil and moving it around. Works well enough for snow too. Garden tilling is a cinch. Mowing is a pleasure. I opted for the 7500 over the 2410 for the simple matter of price. I sometimes wish I had gotten a larger tractor like a 2710, but only because I want one... not because I need one. This little b7500 has never been underpowered or too small for anything I have tried to do with it so far. Good little tractor. ....

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
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2002-09-26          42963

Albert, Thanks for the tractor supply info. I just spent two hours in the garage experimenting with chain to determine the optimum length for the top link and figured I would have to remove 3 inches from the length. I was on my way to the welding shop when I read your post. You may have saved me a lot of trouble.
You would be amazed how high you can lift a box scraper with a 12-inch (7 ½ inch body) top link.
Which BX do you have?
....

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DRankin
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2002-09-26          42967

Albert, do you have anything more specific on the shorter center link from TSC? I cannot find anything on the web site and the store I called was clueless. A part #?? Aplace to call?? ....

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Albert
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2002-09-27          42989

I'll try to get a part number tonite. I planned to get it last week but couldn't get into town. When I get the part number, I'll post it. And thanx for all the info. It seems like everyone thinks the B7500 will do the job of the B2410. And, BTW, mine is a BX2200. ....

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DRankin
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2002-09-27          42992

Then unless you need taller wheels for some reason, the 7500 is a step down in stability and power. The 2410 has virtually the same power with just a bit more weight and, taller wheels. Is you dealer telling you about this top link part? If so I can call if you provide the number. Mark ....

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dcsmith
Join Date: Jul 2003
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2002-09-27          43029

I also own a B7500. I really like this machine, I purchased it because of price. The only set back is the ride. It can be a little jostle-ing to say the least. My old L175 was a lot better ride on the ruff stuff. ....

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chim
Join Date: Oct 2003
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2002-09-28          43041

Dcsmith, are you running R4 tires with more than 10# of air?...........chim ....

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DRankin
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2002-09-28          43052

Albert, I have exausted all of my resources trying to locate a short top link. Any luck on your end? ....

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dcsmith
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2002-09-28          43060

Chim, I have Bar Turfs on the back and regular turfs on the front. This thing has only 55 hrs so far, I have not checked the PSI. I really did not want the Bar turf tires but I got a very good deal on it because it was stock. Plus the dealer said I won't need chains in the winter for plowing. Kind of like, " it was owned by a little old lady who only drove it to church", we'll see. Go Browns ....

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chim
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2002-09-28          43064

Dscmith, I never had any experience with bar turfs. The R4's on my B7500 have very stiff sidewalls. The air pressure has been reduced to 7# rear and 10# front. The rears have 15 gallons of antifreeze in each. At these pressures the ride is nice, and there's plenty of support for the FEL and whatever I carry on the 3PH.

When new, the tractor came with the tires pumped up (forgot the pressure) hard and it rode like it had solid steel wheels. Driving it seemed like punishment.............chim ....

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Albert
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2002-09-29          43071

Mark, here's what I found. It's not a Cat 1 top link. It's a Cat 0 top link, about two inches shorter. Tractor Supply sells them. The major difference is the obvious eye of the link which requires a slight smaller pin which TSC also sells. A 5/8 inch bolt also works. Those sell for 75 cents, nut included. Otherwise, it's about the same as my Cat 1 top link. The part number is: 0267733. Cost: $21.19. I'd agree it's not the best, but it's the best off the shelf item. BTW, my Kubota dealer over a year ago said the company was making a shorter link and that he'd get me one. I've never heard back from him. ....

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DRankin
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2002-09-29          43078

Thanks Albert, I sorta figured it was going that direction. The check is always in the mail, isn't it? There is a big farm and tractor store a couple counties over. I'll go over today and see if I can cobble something together. I'll let you know if I come up with something. ....

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JimTN
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2002-09-29          43081

Suggestion: carefully compare all the features and specs.
My son-in-law has B7500, about three years and likes it.
I bought B2410, primarily for three reasons: same physical size (length, width, etc.); a little more power for PTO implements; and mainly for the 3 point 'position control' feature. Both tractors are HST. I am very pleased with my tractor and FEL; I am not so pleased with my BEFCO flail mower.
Best of luck ....

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Duane
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2002-09-29          43086

Wow... I never knew you could run tires at that low of air pressure... 7 - 10 psi. I have been running my B7500 with R4 treads at like 30 psi in the front, and lord knows what in the rear... rides like a haywagon. The only way I could change the pressure in the rear tires is to take them off and tilt them so the calcium goes below the valve stem... but it might be worth doing to get a little better ride. I wonder if anyone knows if there's an aftermarket seat with some more spring to it that would fit my tractor. My dad just bought a NH TC33... it has like 4" of travel on the seat suspension... nice and cushy... It would be nice if a guy didn't have to buy a tractor twice as big as the one he's got just to get a cushy seat. I reckon I'd need a few more inches of room below my seat on my tractor to install something like that. Let me know if you guys know of anything. thanks. ....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
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2002-09-29          43089

Albert: I don't think a CAT 0 top-link pin will properly fit the top-link mounts of CAT 1 implements. If the pin is too small there will be play and an implement could bang back and forth and provide a bunch of shocks to the cases. A hardware bolt substituted for an link pin might be a safety hazard. Link pins are harder steel than Grade-2 hardware. I don't know what grade bolt might be equivalent to a link pin, but few bolts would have a hole for a lynch pin and I wouldn't want to trust anything else to hold the pin in the implement. Adapter sleeves for CAT 0 to CAT 1 implement loops might be available. I have sleeves for CAT 1 pins to CAT 2 cylinder loops.

Duane: Load charts should be available for most tires. It's a pretty good idea to estimate a typical load and run that pressure. Most pressures on load charts are around 8 - 15 lbs. I think R4 pressures are higher and carry greater loads. There's a binch of reading in the archives about the effect of tire pressures on the front drive train of 4wd tractors.
....

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
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2002-09-29          43096

Tom, you are right, there would be too much slop and there would be a risk of breaking something. I went to the big farm store 50 miles away today and found a Cat 0 top link and some bushings that shim up a 5/8's pin hole up to 3/4.
I discovered something else. The center/top link for the small Kubota's (BX/7400/7500) is a lengthened Cat 0 part. The body and threads are virtually identical in dimensions. So my factory part is a cat 0 top link with cat 1 fittings on each end.
Rather than loose fitting pins I opted for 5inch grade 5 bolts to tie the whole thing together. There does not seem to be any strain or fuss in lifting a heavy 48” box scraper and running with it, but the long-term plan is still to cut the factory top link down to similar length and have it professionally welded.
....

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TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2002-09-30          43101

Mark: I'm thinking that the length of sleeves might be important. They'd go through the implement mounts and terminate against the link at one end and either the pin flange or lynch pin on the other. I think the sleeves should be long enough to prevent the sleeves from sliding one way and creating a gap wide enough for the implement mount to drop into. I'd also wonder if the link end should have a washer or something to prevent the end from working directly against the sleeves.

My sleeves serve a slightly different purpose--to size CAT 1 pins to CAT 2 cylinder end for use with CAT 1 implements. As such, the sleeve ends can ride directly against the implement mounts but I haven't had a problem to date. The sleeves are sort of a pain though when swapping implements. I have to remember to take them out of the loops or they fall out and I end up looking for them. I end up putting them in pockets but they are greasy. I carry spare sleeves in my toolbox. I like your long-term solution better than my sleeves
....

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Art White
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Posts: 6898 Waterville New York
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2002-09-30          43106

Mark, you have been working on this top link quite a bit I see. I still would have reservations on cutting the factory top link. The Cat O to one ends are highly possible as we have seen many tractors that have Cat 1 on one end and cat2 on the other and the top links are reverseable as well as the lower links. It does make sense about the Cat O and 1 hitch parts used. The height of the BX would be a problem with a standard cat 1 hitch for the larger tires that we have seen on many tractors in the past forty or fifty years. ....

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DRankin
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2002-09-30          43111

Tom, right again. The sleeves are designed to adapt a Cat 1 link to a Cat 0 hole and I am going the other way. As you suggested it does require a bolt and washers to keep the stack of parts pressed together and in place. The Cat 0 link is the trial balloon to determine if my length calculations are correct and to provide a spare if it takes a day or two to get the welding done.

Art, here are the numbers so far: The factory link factory with a 10½ inch body lifts the rear of the box scraper 9 inches off the ground. With this clearance it will drag if I try to drive it up the ramps to my trailer no matter which direction I go up the ramps.

I trimmed ½ inch off of each end of the after-market Cat 0 link so it now has a body length of 8½ inches. It will lift the rear of the box scraper 18 inches off the ground, giving the needed clearance to drive onto trailers and in and out of gullies. When I unscrew it, it will still allow the box scraper to sit level with at least a couple inches of threads to spare. There is no sign of binding and there is plenty of clearance between the link and the tractor.

If I buy an aftermarket Cat 1 link to shorten, after it is cut and welded, I will have to drill a hole to have lever to turn the body. I will have to shorten the screws even more to allow room for the lever. The factory part has a neat little loop you can stick the handle of a crescent wrench into to facilitate turning the body of the link. I think I will stay with that design and buy another factory link.
So Art, since I am on the feces roster with the local dealer, can you tell me what will it cost for a new Kubota link?
....

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dcsmith
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2002-10-10          43671

Chim, my turf tires had 23 psi in them(front and back). I backed that off to 14 psi and have a much smoother ride. Thanks for the tip. Some things are too obvious. ....

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