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sshuma
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 38
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2004-02-06          76153

I know -- I ask a lot of questions.... Today's question is:

Does anyone know of a slick way to have a trailer hitch (regular ball) or receiver tube on the tractor along with the iMatch??

I see the Flexpoint add in the lower right of this website, and it looks pretty cool -- but a tad pricey...and you would have to take it off if you wanted to put another implement on. Any other thoughts/ideas/suggestions?

Would a cross-drawbar work?


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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-02-06          76155

Bad River sells an iMatch version of their 3 point hitch, although it may not be on their web site. They respond well to email requests so you might email them to ask about it. To see it installed on a 4310 check out my pics 12-14. Since the 3ph doesn't provide down force note the chain that is used to limit the amount of uptravel of the hitch. ....


Link:   Bad River Hitch

 
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sshuma
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 38
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2004-02-06          76156

kwschumm -- This is EXACTLY what I was looking for!! How much did it cost you? I assume you bought a regular JD cross-drawbar?? ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-02-06          76157

IIRC, it was less than $100. Bad River will sell you a drawbar, but I just bought a 26" drawbar at the dealer so I didn't have to pay to ship it. You will also need some iMatch bushings to match up the diameter of the pins - JD will sell you genuine official iMatch bushings at $15-20 each, but you can also buy regular bushings set one inside the other to build up the diameter at less than a buck each. If you want I can look up the part numbers of the cheaper bushings. I keep a bunch on hand. ....

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sshuma
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 38
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2004-02-06          76162

Excellent! I just checked the web site, and indeed it isn't listed -- so I sent them an e-mail...

Please do send the bushing numbers if you have 'em handy... Are they JD bushings?

Thank you again! ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-02-06          76164

OK, these are JD part numbers.

For the top link you need one PM03008 bushing and one PM00353 bushing. I don't remember if the top link pin came with the hitch but I used a 107P top link pin.

For the bottom drawbar pins you need one PM03009 bushing and one PM00351 bushing for each side (four bushings total).

The bushings are all around 70 cents each. Of course you will need a 26" drawbar and lynch pins as well. ....

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sshuma
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 38
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2004-02-06          76165

kwschumm -- Thank you! ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-02-06          76166

You're most welcome. Glad I could help! ....

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KevPH
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 18 Vermilion, Ohio
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2004-02-09          76416

Hey guys, Try TSC for your bushings. TSC is alot cheaper! Plus, the bushings are longer!

I used two bushing to jump from Cat.1 to Cat.3.

I think I paid about $4.50 with a snap pin!

Look in the section with the tractor drawbars & pins. ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-02-09          76422

With the iMatch I don't think you want the bushings to be longer. If they were you'd sometimes have to cut them down. At least I would with my implements.

I sure wish TSC would come to Oregon though. ....

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KevPH
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 18 Vermilion, Ohio
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2004-02-12          76712

I have a I-Match. The longer TSC bushing do work better than the JD's. The JD bushings tend to lose total contact with the lift points with use. The wider bushing handle the movement of the 3pt implement plus the hitch pin "traps" the bushing from rotating. I bought 3 sets of JD's bushings with the I-Match new. Since, I've replaced all JD's with longer TSC bushings. ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-02-12          76714

I suppose it depends on the implements you have then. Longer bushings simply won't fit on my Rankin 3-point pallet forks because the bushings have to slide between two vertical support pieces. Similarly the top bushing on my box blade cannot be any longer and I've heard of guys having to cut the longer bushings down to fit. Longer lower bushings would work better on my chipper and the box blade though. It would probably be best to have some of each on hand and use the appropriate length for the job. ....

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mav7768
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 19 Buckley, WA
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2004-02-21          77538

Well I'm just getting into what I'll need with the upcoming purchase of a JD4310. It appears that if I want to have an easier time with changing implements, iMatch is a necessity...unless someone can offer up a better solution. I'm going to start with a 47bh and 5' box scraper. Any thoughts...

Mark ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-02-21          77540

I-Match isn't a necessity, but if you are buying new implements anyway it's nice to have. You just need to be aware that not all implements are I-Match compatible. If you buy some that aren't you will either have to remove the I-Match to use them or have them modified. I'm having two implements modified right now (chipper and carry all) to work with mine.

With I-Match you can hook up a rear implement in just a few seconds without getting out of the seat (unless you have to hook up the pto). Without it you will need to get out and hook it up the hard way - sometimes this involves the use of various 2x4s or pry bars to lever the implement around to get things lined up. If you don't have I-Match it would be good to have telescoping links so you can adjust link length a bit without moving the tractor and those are an option on the 4310 (that I think cost more than I-Match).

Anyway, once everything works with I-Match it's a pleasure to use, but it's not a necessity. It's biggest advantage comes when you change rear implements a lot. ....

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sshuma
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 38
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2004-02-23          77672

kwschumm -- Just out of curiosity: I was poking around the 4310 this weekend, getting familiar with where everything is and what maintenance will entail... I pulled the tow bar all the way out -- I didn't put a ball on and try to hook anything up to it, but I'm assuming you have tried this and found it too low to the ground and/or too close with the iMatch on? ....

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yooperpete
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1413 Northern Michigan
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2004-02-23          77677

On my photo #7 you can see the hookup with iMatch and swinging drawbar. I don't remember if the drawbar tongue came out further. I'll have to check it out. If you leave the iMatch frame on and put a ball with 3/4 shank onto it, you will see that it is hard to reach in and lock your trailer tongue. Your turning radius will also be reduced, because the iMatch can contact the tongue. On my flat bed it won't work at all because my jack-stand crank lever will hitch the iMatch.

If you remove the iMatch, it will work better by giving you more space. I don't know if you have different ball sizes, I use 1 7/8, 2" and 2 5/16. I don't like to remove them from my 2" sq. receiver and would need another set.

With the swinging drawbar, you don't have height adjustment. I find it very convenient to raise and lower the tongue. I have two utility trailers, a boat trailer, an 18' flatbed and a dump trailer. The dump trailer in particular wouldn't even work without a receiver type hitch adapter. I have an inverted 4" drop receiver that I use for this one hooked to my F250 Super-Duty to make it level. My Super-Duty is tall.

Anyway to answer your question, it is possible to use the swinging drawbar with ball to attach a trailer. There are multiple disadvantages though, and recommend that you remove the iMatch when doing so. This however defeats the purpose of the iMatch. ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-02-23          77682

What yooperpete said! :) ....

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sshuma
Join Date: Jan 2004
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2004-05-03          85056

kwschumm -- I finally got my hitch from Bad River (they were out of stock). I'm getting an order together for the bushings, pins, etc. The top link pin did not come with the hitch -- and I can't find a '107P' part number. Is the 107P an implement model number? Do you have an actual JD part number for the top link pin you used? ....

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yooperpete
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1413 Northern Michigan
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2004-05-03          85066

When I bought my bushings, etc. for the iMatch I believe the JD bushing numbers were: (2 pcs.) PM03009 & (2 pcs.) PM00351 for the lift arms and (1 pc.) PM03008 & (1 pc.) PM00353 for the top link. I already had extra toplink pins. You can just use any standard category I top link pin. Your JD dealer will have them. The bushing set mentioned above is between $5.00 and $6.00.

The iMatch is set up to also except category III implements as well. That is why you need category III to category II and category II to category I reducers. ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-05-03          85071

The model number was on a sticker and has worn off the top-link pin I'm using, but like YooperPete said any Cat-1 top link pin that is long enough (2 3/4" or longer IIRC, but make some measurements first) should work. Any tractor dealer should have them. ....

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sshuma
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 38
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2004-05-03          85087

I know this shouldn't be that hard, but I'm certainly having trouble with it... I've poked around on JDParts and I find a plethora of different top link pin part numbers... I just talked to my JD dealer, and was told that there is no 'standard Cat-1 top link pin'... They have several diameters to choose from -- 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", etc. Several lengths, too -- but that's no big deal. I checked out the inside diameter of the pm00353, and it says .75"... So I'm assuming any 3/4" top link pin (that's long enough) will do? Something like a PM01603? ....

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DRankin
Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 5116 Northern Nevada
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2004-05-03          85091

A cat 1 hitch has 7/8" pins on the lift arms and a 3/4" on the top link.

There is little else beside the pin diameter that is "standard" on these hitches. ....

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kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2004-05-03          85096

A 3/4" x 2 3/4" pin will be perfect for the top link of the Bad River I-Match hitch adapter. I rummaged around in my spare parts and found a pin that has (most) of a label on it. It looks like a PM00073 is the pin you need, but be aware that the label I'm looking MAY be missing the last digit of the part number. Hope this helps. ....

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Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 4297 Southwest MiddleTennessee
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2004-05-04          85154

Bad River products and service come HIGHLY recommended. Great folks to deal with that offer quality products at a very reasonable price. If you are a pretty fair welder, you can also fabricate your own hitch out of square tube stock or channel iron. Pictures # 15,16, and 17 in my profile pictures show a hitch a friend made me from scraps of metal stock. ....

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sshuma
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 38
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2004-05-04          85193

Thank you everyone for the help. Using the PN's you gave me, plus dimensions, plus what I could get off of JDParts and from my dealer, I have what I need.

For everyone out there -- there are 3 web pages linked from the JDParts site that list all sorts of pins and bushings: ....

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sshuma
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 38
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2004-05-04          85196

Hmm.... It didn't take my links... I'll just list them here:

http://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/expert/pmac/5835_fb_Hitch_Pins.htm

http://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/expert/pmac/5363_fb_Bushings_Clips_and_Lock_Pins.htm

http://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/expert/pmac/5225_fb_Pins.htm ....

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Billy
Join Date: Oct 1999
Posts: 975 Southeast Oklahoma
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2004-05-04          85200

Kev, why did you jump from cat. 1 to 3? ....

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yooperpete
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1413 Northern Michigan
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2004-05-05          85253

The iMatch hitch is set up to accept category III implements, as well as category II and I depending upon what bushing sizes you use. The implements must have the correct vertical height however to fit. That is why you need two sets of reducer bushings fitting inside one another. JD does offer a single reducer bushing going from III to I but it is about $15.00 for a pair of lift arm bushings while you still need to do the double thing at the top. If you go the double set you only have about less than $6.00 invested. You will always need an extra top link pin in addition to that which is in the $2.00 to $2.50 range. ....

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