Go Bottomplowing and discing
 | WEB
Join Date: Posts: 1 
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2003-04-20 53443
I'm waiting for the delivery of my new JD 4710; Oh Yeah!
How many plows should I pull behind me that won't be working the tracor too hard? My field is relatively flat and was farmed a few decades ago. (Time for new life) What is the proper way to plow (direction) of say a rectangular field. Work my way from the outside edge in?
What about discing after I plow? (size and all) Harrowing comes next right? Can you tell I'm new at all this? Thanks in advance for any reply.
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 | plots1
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 563 mo 
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2003-04-20 53444
what are you looking to plant? ....
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| MYDOGROY
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 24 NEW PARK, PA
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2003-04-20 53447
web, as a genral rule, 20 hp is required per malboard plow. when I plow, I work the outside in, rolling the soil away. Then, when you come back for the next pass, going in the same direction, place the tractors front right tire in the furrow you made from the first pass and you will be lined up. On larger fields when you work both ends, then meet in the middle, you will often have a large furrow in the center. There isn't much you can do about this, except straigten it out with disk. When your finished plowing the long ends, then you can close the field. You will roll the soil inward on the ends, this will give you a nice looking job. I usually wait a day or two before disking, but you dont have to. Also, be cognisant of the way the ground lies. always plow in such a way that you wont have ground erosion. Often times, after plowing, I will run over the area several times with the disk. I can afford to do this because my plot is of smaller scale. I would imagine that it would be false economy if you would run over several acres multiple times. As with disking, you will disk in the direction you plowed, at least for the first pass. It can get pretty rough, so you'll go slowly.Then if you want a perfect job,you can run over the disked ground with a culipacker, this will break up all of the clumps and give you a smooth job. However, I have found that disking the plowed ground is sufficient. especially since I don't own a culipacker.
Hopefullt I have helped you, I am only going off of my experiences, I'm sure that everyone has their own ideas on how this task should be completed, but, hopefully, this will get you started in the right direction. Good Luck Ron L. New Park, PA ....
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| Gunfighter
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 23 West Michigan
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2003-04-20 53449
Back in the old day, 1 inch of plow per horse power was the rule but soil condition vary in different parts of the country so you need to adjust. In sandy soil a plow will pull much easier then if your land is heavy clay.
My best suggest would be to talk with the tractor dealer in your area, he knows best the area soil conditions an the tractors capability.. ....
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| web
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2003-04-20 53453
I plan on planting orchard grasses and clover. I heard that buckwheat is good to plant also, returning nitrogen to the soil and all. Thanks for asking. web ....
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| plots1
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 563 mo
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2003-04-20 53454
plow from outside in as mydoyroy stated ,then a tined harrow works good for tearing down furrows into smaller clumps,then disk for final smoothin.a good sized log dragged a few feet behind dish also acts as a poor mans cultapacker. If it's lugumes your planting you really don't need to moldboard. what i do is drag my boxblade around to tear out sod ,then go right to disk, then chain 7ft oak log behind disk for final pass .works great for sowing clovers and alpha. look at my photo album of one of my 8th acer plots. ....
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 | Peters
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 3034 Northern AL 
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2003-04-20 53455
I don't have that big of area so I have a flex Harrow. I disk then harrow, run the flex harrow tines down to break clumps and them tine up to smooth. ....
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| abbeyroad154
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 11 Ridgway, PA.
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2003-04-20 53456
I'm not sure what a culipacker is. Is there a certain size disc I should purchase? I will maintain 15 acres. web ....
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 | harvey
Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 1550 Moravia, NY 
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2003-04-21 53467
Web Generally you would roll ground in one year and out another that way you do not have a big ridge or a valley down the center. As gunfighter said soil is different, (ART where you at for a plow demo??? Still smile about that and I'll let you tell the story). You might have power enough but I doubt you have tractor (weight) enough to pull 3 bottom 16". The biggest problem with maximizing what you can pull is tire damage from slippage and cuts from stones. You could run tire chains to prevent damage to tires...or just run a 2bottom 14" maybe 3/14 if you have no clay/hardpan.
Now all that said: why buy 3 pieces of equipment when 1 rotary (roto) tiller would do the complete job in one pass?
Harvey ....
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| abbeyroad154
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 11 Ridgway, PA.
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2003-04-21 53515
Harvey,
I contemplated buying a tiller, but I didn't think that the tines would go deep enough into the soil. Is it time consuming? What about rocks and sapling roots? Does the tiller smooth things up if the ground is rough to begin with? Is there a tiller you have in mind to use on a 15 acre field? I assume it would be less wear on the tractor as well. Thanks for your reply. web ....
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| harvey
Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 1550 Moravia, NY
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2003-04-21 53519
Web I have 1 bottom plow I built from scraps from a OLD 2 bottom. It even has a old cast iron point. Have 3pt hitch harrows/drags. Never had any use for disk. But they are good for cutting up sod just afer you plow. Total cost for both $10.00, 8 hours cutting and welding plow and 4 hours brush hog time for drags and 4 hours rebuilding worn out tines.
Anyway I do not know your ground conditions. If you are in a boulder area (BFR's) uhhhh (Big fine rocks) you may have to use a plow.
Better thought do you have a neighbor with big equipment? Trade some fence mending or chores with them to plow your field the first time so you can see if a roto tiller will work. Or you could rent a tiller to check it out.
15 acres sounds and looks like a lot but I remember neighbors with a single bottom, 1 tractor and 100 acres to work. probably plowing 20 or so acres for corn and oats.
Bottom line IMHO is: If a roto tiller will work in your ground you can do the entire process in 1 pass instead of 4 or 5 You'll have to disk a couple of times and harrow/drag a couple also. Maintenance on the tiller tines will depend on how fast you try to work the ground. Small brush and roots should be no problem other than winding up on the tines. But you will plug up a drag very quickly with sod and brush. Drags are not fun to unplug either.
You have a tuff decision. Enjoy Harvey ....
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| TimB
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 31 Southwest PA
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2003-04-24 53677
Gunfighter and MYDOGROY - a couple of questions - those hp recommedations are measured against *drawbar* hp, not engine gross, right? Anyone have a feel (since the mfgs. don't give that number and Nebraska tests aren't done on compacts) for what the compacts can deliver at the drawbar? (It should be something less than the PTO rating). Would there be an even greater loss hydro-to-gear on drawbar than you see in the PTO ratings? And how does MFWD help fudge those numbers?
I'd be real interested in how the 4710 does with a plow myself - it's number one on my short list right now and I'm sure the whole gang at the "farm" will be comparing it's performance with our two-bottom to the Ford NAA that totes it now.
And lastly (real rookie question here - since that plow is the only one I've ever used) - on different size plows (12", 14", 16") - do they just cut a wider swath or also deeper as they get bigger? I always thought both - but reading some of these posts I'm not so sure. ....
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