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Ag Tires for 790

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TJ
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2002-11-20          45222

I have a 790 with the turf tires which are just not cutting it on the new farm. I would like to get ag/lug tires for this machine. Would that require new/different wheels (rims)? Any info on tires would be appreciated, Thanks.


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Ag Tires for 790

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DRankin
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2002-11-20          45224

You didn't mention if you have a 2wd or a 4wd, but anyway the rear turfs are listed as 13.6x16 (16 inch rims) and the factory rear R-1's are listed as 11.2x24 (24 inch rims). It seems all combinations of wheels on 4wd units use a 14 inch front rim. If you go to Deere to price wheels, make sure you take some blood pressure meds. Better you should measure out your bolt pattern and see if an online ag tire dealer can provide the correct bolt pattern, size, width and offset. ....

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TJ
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2002-11-20          45226

Thanks Mark. It is 4WD. And, I avoid the Deere Dealer unless absolutely necessary. The prices are unbelievable. I did find some tire threads on this site. I guess the answer is I would need new rims and tires. Maybe I'll buy chains. ....

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DRankin
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2002-11-20          45236

Looks to me like you could use your current front rims. Chains might be an interesting option, especially if you got the ones that form X's across the tread, but they are not cheap either. Are you doing field work, like plowing? ....

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Peters
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2002-11-20          45241

TJ
The 750 had the turfs and the R4 on the same rims. I believe that you could do the same with the 790. Is this not in the manual? ....

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Tj
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2002-11-21          45254

Mark, I do everything with this tractor except mow lawns, and most of the time traction isn't a big problem. Digging with the loader in muddy areas and manure is where I need more traction. I bought the tractor used so had no choice on tires, was a fantastic deal with only 70 hours on it then. I was kinda half kidding about the chains, but maybe for those needed times they might work. Will they help, or will they just clog up with mud? I have chains for a smaller 2WD tractor and they don't help too much in mud. Just ordered super lugs for that one. Also, the main problem is with the fronts loosing traction, is there a more aggressive tread tire that will work on my exsisting rims and not screw up the tire ratio, since it is 4WD? The fronts need to be replaced anyway, they can't handle too many more plugs, they are way to soft and thin for some of the rough areas I work in.
Peters, My tractor manual doesn't say much about tires, but the loader manual does get into it more, but only lists rear tire options, Turf, R1, and R4. I'm wondering if front R4s would help the traction all that much, and have the correct rolling diameter so I don't blow out and axle or gear box. ....

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DRankin
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2002-11-21          45255

Mud and Manure? Sounds like R-1 country to me. I am getting the tire information from a recent JD sales brochure, and would be glad to transmit the data. ....

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TJ
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2002-11-21          45258

Mud and manure, but not that often, that is a small part of the work, so I don't now if the cost of R1s is worth it. Most of the work is typical yard/farm work, brush hogging, post hole digging, manure spreading, gravel raking, some ground plowing, snow removal if it's really drifted in etc. Or maybe the R1s would be best all around since I am not on the lawn all that much with this tractor. At least fronts have to go, maybe something with more ply and better tread. I hate those turfs in the front. ....

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Peters
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2002-11-21          45261

TJ
I now have a 955 and have R4 (lugged industrial tires) on the rear and turfs on the front. I have no problem with drive line wind up, but don't know if its fluke or skill as the previous owner did the conversion. As I stated I believe the R4 and turfs are on the same rim. The fronts should be about 35$ each, at least that is what I found when I replaced the 750's. I would measure your diameters and place a R4 on the front first to see what it will give you.
I have worked to the hubs in my friend dairy yard with the 955, but it has the r4 on the rear.
The front rims on my 955 run 70$ a pop from JD. The tires on the 750 are a little larger so?
I think your cost efficient options are see if someone on the board will trade for R1s and rims or change the tires to R4. ....

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JAZAK
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2002-11-21          45263

I have r-4 on my 790 4wd and they perform very well in the soupy/greasy sandy-clay soil around my area The r-4 seam to clean them selves very well. Only had to use the diff. lock once to back out of a 35% grade with a fel full of shale on a rainy day. ....

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TJ
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2002-11-22          45271

Jazak, do the R4s you have use the same rims as the turfs? Did it come from the dealer with the R4s, or did you change to them? ....

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Peters
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2002-11-22          45276

TJ;
I suspected that we were failing to communicate. R4 are industrial tires that are wider but lugged like farm tires. They are designed to resist punctures, carrier greater weights and provide traction in mud. ....


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DRankin
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2002-11-22          45279

My handy dandy 790 factory brochure sez the R-4 rears are
15.00-19.5 and lists the turfs as 13.6-16.

Peters, a factory rim from JD for $70 is a relative bargain. A full set of replacement rims for my 4100 is $750 !! If I wanted tires too it would be $1200 ++ depending on the tire. Then you pay shipping. ....

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dsg
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2002-11-22          45282

TJ, ever thought about Truck/MUD tires on the rear. You should be able to keep your current rims. See the link below. Just a thought!

David ....


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slowrev
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2002-11-22          45285

I have a Gravely riding garden tractor. I have found mud and snow tires to be the best compromise between traction and damaging the lawn. They give MUCH better traction than the old turf tread. I use this handy little beast ( 900 lbs ) to pull a trailer with about 1 ton of gravel on it or about 1/2 cord of wood, etc. Useful for many jobs where the quarters are too tight for the big tractor, Or when something is hitched up to the big tractor. The mud and snow tires work much better than the ag or turf tires on ice and snow too. They just don't look as cool.

Another thought... on a 4WD tractor wouldn't you have to keep the same ratio of diameter tires on the front and rear ? If the rear tire outer diameter is increased would not the front tires diameter have to be increased proportionally ? Not sure about this on your tractor, but that is the way it is on trucks/auto's.

Ben
....

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DRankin
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2002-11-22          45287

Let me add to David’s thought. You do have rims that translate to automotive sizes. Most of the newer Pick-ups and large SUV's have 16-inch rims and there is a huge selection of mud and snow/off road tires available in that rims size. Some of them are easily as big as small tractor tires and carry load range C/D/E ratings. Your 14-inch front rims match the size of most imported trucks over the last 30 years so you know there are some decent heavy-duty M/S tires out there for them.
I did exactly this same thing with my 4100. Except the front rims were 12 inch, which limited me to just two sizes of all season tires designed for really small cars. They worked really well for me. Just measure the tires you have and start mixing and matching. It is likely that you will end up with a smaller set of tires all around, but that will put the tractor a couple inches closer to the ground and enhance its stability a bit and give it a little more ‘grunt’ in low range.
....

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TomG
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2002-11-23          45302

Ben: The tire diameter thing is the same with tractors too. Tractors have different front and rear drive train ratios due to the different size front and back tires.

Although diameter is the main thing, the concept used is 'rolling circumference,' because the idea is how much rubber the front and back tires put on the ground rather and diameter is indirectly related to the idea. Besides, if the rolling circumference isn't known, there's the question of how to measure diameter. Diameters aren't constant as loads vary and loaded tires are ovals rather than circles and different type tires deform differently.

Practically speaking, calculating rolling circumferences from diameters probably is good enough. If wind-up problems are apparent, most could be fixed by changing air pressures.

There are a bunch of fine points about rolling circumferences in the archives. Mark, in particular, went to the trouble of measuring his front tire circumferences with different weights in the bucket. I seem to recall that a conclusion was that weight doesn't change the circumference much but it does change the tire profile. Heavy weights produce bigger flat spots on the bottoms that may increase traction.

Increased traction on from the front tires may cause the front-drive to carry an increased share of the load and might not be that great for front drive train that usually are lighter duty than rear ones. I haven't thought of it but maybe this a case where heavy loader work and R4's on the front go together. R4's should deform less under load than other tire types.
....

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Ben in KY
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2002-11-24          45341

Thanks or the the confirmation Tom. I am fairly new to tractors, but not other equipment useage and repair. I was not sure but thought that there was no slipclutch between the front and rear axles on tractors.

Ben
....

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JAZAK
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2002-11-27          45472

SORRY, MY COMPUTER DIED. THE R4'S ON MY 790 JD CAME FROM THE DEALER. THE FRONTS ARE 25X8.50-14 AND THE REARS ARE 15X19.5 ....

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TomG
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2002-11-28          45492

Ben: Sorry I missed your question for a few days. The front drive on my Ford is taken off the rear DIFF ring gear. Then, it's pretty much a straight shaft to the front DIFF. There's no slip clutch and I imagine most compacts have similar design. However, I'm not up to speed on new models so sometimes designs surprise me.

I'm sitting here wondering if a slip clutch would be a good or not so good thing to have. On one hand, front drives are lighter than rear ones and it would be good to keep the rear drive from banging the front around. I believe this is the reason why most front axles usually are designed to lead the rear by several percent. That's why it's not good to use 4wd on hard surfaces. I suppose the front tires actually are the slip clutch. I know that the direct link between front and rear drives makes for better braking when in 4wd even though there are no brakes on the front. Some heavy equipment does have a differential between the drives to allow both drives to keep pulling better during turns.

I know that the normal front axle lead on my Ford will wind up the axles on hard surfaces. The lead also is affect enough by tire pressures that I get wind up if I'm running high front tire pressures when doing heavy loader work. I know I've got wind up when the 4wd becomes hard to engage or disengage. I've been known to lift the front wheels with the loader to re4lease wind up, and then the 4wd engages easily.
....

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kyoung
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2002-11-30          45543

If you decide to go the route of tire chains, I have a new set (never on a tire). I thought that they would be needed for snow plowing, but the 4-wheel drive is all that's needed. $100 if you are interested. ....

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