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Jinma 284 Ammeter 30 Amp fuse keeps blowing

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jinmajeff
Join Date: May 2011
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2011-05-30          178704

Hi. Can anyone help me with this? I ran my 284 for an hour or so today clearing for a garden. I shut it off, then when I tried to start it again a few minutes later there was no power to the instument cluster and no start. The Ammeter 30 amp fuse was blown.
I looked for bad wires and inspected the key start and gauges. When I put it all back together I could put a new fuse in without it blowing and the tractor started, but when I turned it off I couldn't start it again, the same fuse was blown. If I try to insert a fresh fuse it blows as I out it in. Any ideas?


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greg_g
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2011-05-31          178706

A bad keyswitch is not out of the question, but a short in the glow plug circuit should be ruled out first. Remove the green wire from the glow plug buss bar, tape the exposed end so it can't touch metal, replace the 30A fuse, then see if your fuse problem goes away.

//greg// ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-05-31          178708

Thanks, Greg. Can you tell me how to find that glo plug buss bar? ....

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greg_g
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2011-05-31          178709

Your engine should have 3 glow plugs sticking up just below the valve cover on the left side of the engine (as viewed from the operator seat). They look sorta like skinny spark plugs. They're tied together electrically by either a one-piece copper strip or a series of wires string from plug to plug. The end near the fuel tank should be fastened to a green wire. That's where you disconnect to take the glow plugs out of the electrical system

//greg// ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-05-31          178710

Thanks, again! I'll let you know how it goes. It will be later today, probably, before I get back to it, since I have to go into town and get more fuses. ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-05-31          178716

Thanks again, Greg. I removed the green wire from the copper strip as you described and the fuse still blew when inserted. Does that mean the short is in the key switch? ....

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greg_g
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2011-05-31          178719

Sounds like it. The OE keyswitches have a long and documented history of problems like this. I recommend a Ford or Lucas cold start switch to replace the OE switch. "Cold Start" is the operative phrase. There are Ford and Lucas switches for both gasoline and diesel tractors. You want the cold start type for your diesel.

//greg// ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-05-31          178720

1. Can you tell me where I can obtain the switch?
2. Is there a way to run the tractor without a switch in the meantime? ....

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greg_g
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2011-05-31          178723

Do an internet search for "tractor cold start switch", there are hundreds of places to buy them. Your area farm supply store may even have one hanging on a peg. In my experience, the current Ford type switches are now too being made in China. They're still better than the OE switch in your Jinma, but still not as good as the Lucas switches - if you can find one (they're hard to come by).

And yes, you can run the tractor w/o the keyswitch. Just jump the starter at the solenoid terminals. That too has been discussed literally hundreds of times. Make sure the transmission is in neutral first though. But understand - that as long as the 30A fuse remains blown - you won't have lights or instruments.

//greg// ....

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richwaugh
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2011-05-31          178724

Also note that your battery will not be charging while the tractor is running without electrics. You may want to put a charger on it every few times you start it just to be sure you don't strand yourself out in the fields. ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-05-31          178726

I took the starter switch into my littel town and tried no less than 8 auto parts and other stores, but nobody understood or had what I needed. I'll track it down and run the tractor by jumping the solenoid in the meantime. Thanks for all your help! ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-05-31          178727

No trouble starting the tractor as you suggested. Wasn't sure how to stop it, so I covered the air intake with my hand and it eventually stopped.
There is no starter switch in the tractor and none of it's wires are touching anything but air, the tractor is not running and if I put a fuse in the block it blow before I can insert it properly. Any thoughts on what's happening? ....

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richwaugh
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2011-05-31          178728

I can't say exactly what is causing that, but you pretty much ruled out the starter switch with that experiment. What you really need to do is get a continuity tester and trace out the wiring to that fuse. If you have an ohmmeter that's the best tool, but a simple continuity tester with a pointy probe and the handle that lights up like they sell in auto supplies may work. Somewhere that circuit is going to ground, so the ohmmeter or a tester that has its own battery and light will be better than a straight voltage probe. The short to ground may be in the fuse block itself (not at all unheard of) or it may be that a wire is abraded somewhere and going to ground. It also could be that your voltage regulator is shot - you could try pulling it out of the fuse block and then replacing the fuse. Mine went bad on my JM 304 and did that same sort of thing, though only when I turned the key switch on.

I note that you mentioned not being able to shut the tractor off without the switch in place. On my Jinma the shut-off is a pull cable that shuts off the fuel, which is pretty standard on diesels. The key switch only shuts off the electrics which doesn't stop a diesel. Is yours somehow different? Does it not have a fuel cutoff? How about a compression release - that's another way to stop a diesel. Cutting off the air is fine, though. I'm just not familiar with any of the Chinese tractors that have an electric engine kill. ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-05-31          178729

Yes, I have the fuel shut off cable. I was so focused on the switch that I forgot about it. All I can say is DUHHHHH!
Hope someone enjoys a laugh on that. Thanks again for all your help! ....

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greg_g
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2011-05-31          178730

Crawl under the left floorboard and look up. In front of the clutch pedal arm is an interlock switch. It's situated electrically between the keyswitch and the starter solenoid. It's not unusual for that interlock to become loose in its bracket, at which point either the switch itself gets crushed - or one of the wires gets the insulation mashed against metal.

//greg// ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-05-31          178732

Appreciate you sticking with me. The clutch interlock looks fine and if I disconnect it the fuse still blows. If I pull out the regulator fuse the ammeter fuse still blows (does that mean the regulator's good?)
I'm not experienced with a multi meter, but it lights up for 12v on one side of the ammeter fuse socket and not the other, that seems right as far as I know. ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-05-31          178733

Still trying to figure this out. The "ammeter" circuit consists of a heavy gauge white wite stamped with the nuber "2" on it. This wire runs from the solenoid the the fuse box and is hot.
The other wire is a heavy green wire that runs from the fuse box to the starter switch where it is also connected to a heavy purple wire that runs to the alternator where it grounds.
Either I've missed something here or this is the problem. Seems this should not be grounding when not attached to the starter switch or without the key turned to "on". What would be the point of the circuit already being grounded without the switch on. It would take the course of least resistance and go straight to the alternator bypassing the switch.
If I'm right about this (and I'm pretty much making this up as I go) then either the green/purple wires are grounded somewhere I haven't found, the alternator connection is grounded, or something ids wrong with the alternator.
Is this a mass of cunfusion or am I getting closer to solving this problem? ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-05-31          178734

I disconnected the purple wire from the alternator and the fuse no longer blows when put into the "ammeter" socket. There is still power to this socket (circuit) at the white wire side.
I ran the tractor for quite awhile yesterday before this problem occurred, so my guess is the alternator was charging.
Don't know if it works now and if there is a short in it or maybe this is all normal and my problem is elsewhere. ....

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greg_g
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2011-06-01          178739

Definitely not one of the more commonly documented Jinma electrical problems. But your wiring doesn't sound stock, especially that purple wire between the starter and the alternator. I don't think the factory put that one there. The addition of that wire is usually done where there's a problem of insufficient charging voltage getting to the battery. But I'm not sure how it factors into your electrical short problem.

What happens if that purple wire is removed?

//greg// ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-06-01          178743

I'll let you know when I get more fuses. I ran it last evening without a fuse in the ammeter circuit and with the purple wire connected to the alternator. I was afraid that without the wire connected the system wouldn't charge. Now that I think of it, what does the alternator do (besides recharge the battery) in a diesel engine (this is the first diesel I've owned)? Does it run the glow plugs or are those just to get it started?
Do you know how I can check to see if the alternator is functioning with the purple wire disconnected?
And in case I wasn't clear before, the purple wire runs from the key switch to the alternator. It is one of 3 or 4 wires mounted on the back of the alternator and the only heavy gauge (if memory serves). ....

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greg_g
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2011-06-01          178749

Battery heats glow plugs and turns starter motor. Once engine is running, alternator is producing electricity. Some goes to topping up the battery charge, the rest to running whatever electrical stuff is energized. Soon as the battery is topped up, the alternator only feeds the rest of the electrical system. But if something is turned on/plugged in that exceeds the alternator capacity, then the battery jumps in to help make up the difference.

I interpreted your description of the purple wire as going directly from the solenoid to the alternator. But even with your clarification, I still don't know what that purple wire is for. There are typically only 3 wires associated with the alternator and 4 with the keyswitch. There is no one wire directly connecting the two.
Alternator; one wire to ammeter, two wires to voltage regulator
Keyswitch; one wire from ammeter, one wire to fuse panel, one wire to glow plugs, one wire to clutch interlock

//greg// ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-06-02          178771

I want to thank Greg and Rich for their help with the tractor. I had to take some time off from trouble shooting and just jump the solenoid and use the tractor to finish the garden while I had time off from work.
I'll get back to the tractor eventually and let you know what I find out.
I have 4 wire connectors on the starter switch, but five wires connect to it when you factor in the purple wire attached to the green wire from the "ammeter" fuse. They are tied together at the starter switch.
The alternator has 4 connections counting the purple wire.
I have no ammeter gauge, just fuel, tach, oil pressure and temp. Not entirely sure why the fuse box is labeled "ammeter." My guess is this is the power line to the starter switch.
I will try running the tractor with the purple witre disconnected from the alternator.
Is there a way for me to test the fuction of the alternator with and without the purple wire attached?
I wonder if anyone else out there has their Jinma wired like this? ....

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greg_g
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2011-06-02          178774

My interpretation of this situation is that you bought this tractor used. Cuz if you knew what some of those questionable wires and connections were for, you wouldn't be here askin'. Please confirm that this is a used tractor, and that you're trying to figure out what a previous owner did to modify the electrical system.

But if you're the original owner, I'm stumped.

//greg// ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-06-02          178782

I am the original owner... ....

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richwaugh
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2011-06-03          178791

The good thing here is that a diesel doesn't need electricity to run, only to start. Heck, a REAL man could crank start one - I *don't* think.

To test the alternator you're going to need a volt meter - no way around that if you want accurate information. You can get inexpensive multimeters from Harbor Freight, Radio Shack and other places. You don't need a fancy one, just the basic unit that does ohms, volts and milliamps.

You test the alternator by hooking the voltmeter to it and reading the voltage output when the engine is running about 1600+ rpm. At low rpms the alternator won't be energizing the field so it won't produce electricity. If it is working, it should produce an output of about 14+ volts at 1600+ rpm. You try it with the purple wire both ways to see if that wire is necessary to alternator function.

You use the ohmmeter to determine continuity in wiring circuits and to find shorts to ground. Do NOT use the ohmmeter on wiring that may be carrying electricity or you'll toast the meter! Before doing tests with the ohmmeter disconnect the negative battery cable, at least.

It is possible to completely rewire the tractor just based on simple electrical theory. You need the battery to run the starter and/or glow plugs, and the alternator to charge the battery and supply electricity for lighting. You need a voltage regulator to tell the alternator when to stop delivery electricity to the system so as not to overcharge the battery. It is really that simple, although manufacturers seem to be able to turn it into voodoo. I think they do it to save money on wiring, but I can't prove that. (grin) ....

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Murf
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2011-06-03          178794

Quote:
Originally Posted by jinmajeff | view 178771
The alternator has 4 connections counting the purple wire.


If the tractor has an external voltage regulator (which I believe is the case based on the type of machine you have, and that it has 4 wires) then the wires should be;

1) heavy wire straight to the positive battery terminal,
2) lighter wire (could be marked "F") going to either the ign. switch or voltage regulator (this provides power to the Field coils to excite or start them),
3) lighter wire going to the voltage regulator (could be marked "R" for Regulator),
4) lighter wire being an external ground (could be marked "G" or "GRD").

In systems like this it's not uncommon to have the Field wire switched at the ignition to prevent a drain on the battery. Without power to it, the alternator will have no output.


Best of luck. ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-06-03          178801

Big newb here. So I gather the glow plugs are just for starting and the cylinders fire off just compression while the engine runs? This probably sounds lame, but that's amazing! Seems a lot simpler than gas engines.
The tractor is back in the garage now and I'm at work. Further diagnosis and repair will have to wait until time permits.
What Murf says about the alternator wiring makes sense, the the only heavy wire is the one coming from the key switch. I'll have to look under the hood again to trace the other three wires and see if they go as he describes.
If this is how my tractor is wired, why is this purple wire running from the key switch grounding at the alternator? ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-06-03          178802

Re-thinking Murf's wiring description. The puple wire (heavy gauge) may be the equivalent of the wire that's supposed to run from the positive battery terminal. If you trace it back to the key switch it is attached to a hot wire that runs through the "ammeter fuse" to the positive/hot terminal of the solenoid. As best as I can say without the tractor in front of me, I don't think there is a wire running from the battery to the alternator.
Also we need to keep in mind that the purple wire is attached directly to the hot wire at the key switch and does not require the key switch to be turned on to complete the circuit. ....

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richwaugh
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2011-06-03          178804

You are correct, Jeff - a diesel runs on compression alone once started. I live in the tropics so I don't need glow plugs to start mine.

In fact, the ability of a diesel to start with only compression (and fuel/air mix, of course), is something you need to keep firmly in mind. They have been known to start when you don't want them to, such as when turning one over with a wrench to set valve lash. If you're working on one and turning it over by hand you MUST clamp off the fuel shutoff and the hold the compression release open or you can be badly surprised when the engine suddenly fires.

Diesels are simple in principle, but that doesn't mean they aren't still dangerous. ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-06-03          178806

Thanks, Rich. Good to know! ....

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greg_g
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2011-06-03          178808

But what Murf doesn't know, is that his #1 doesn't exist on any Chinese tractor I've owned. The OE charging circuit goes through the key switch. In some cases of inadequate charge voltage I've added that wire after the fact, but none that I've seen come from the factory that way.

On OE wiring, the heaviest gauge wire from the alternator - usually it's yellow - does NOT go directly to the key switch. It should go to the ammeter, THEN to the key switch.

Given that you're the original owner, is there a chance that the dealer may have fooled with the wiring without full disclosure>

//greg// ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-06-03          178815

No telling what the dealer may have done to the tractor before it came to me. Sounds like mine is a little unusual in that it does not have an ammeter, either. Since there's no ammeter would it be resonable for the heavy gauge wire to run directly to the key switch? ....

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greg_g
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2011-06-03          178817

You're right, I glossed over your mention of there being no ammeter. Purple or not, it now makes more sense that the fat wire goes directly between the alternator and the keyswitch.

So disconnecting that wire isolates the alternator from the electrical system. The battery will still start the engine. But not only will it not receive any charging voltage, it must also supply all the electricals normally supported by the alternator. But at the same time, you can see whether or not the alternator is contributing to the blown fuse problem

If not, then you're back to the cheesy keyswitch.

//greg// ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-06-05          178851

Thanks, Greg. If I remember correctly all the little experiments while running down this short, it all worked fine with the purple wire disconnected from the alternator. I'll repeat this next time I can get to the tractor to make sure. Assumming this is true, is there something in the alternator internally that is shorting? Have you heard of this happening before? I seem to remember this kind of thing happening in cars. Thanks agin for all your help! ....

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greg_g
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2011-06-05          178855

Well, my alternator experience is limited. What I've seen over the years is that they simply die. That is, no output. But that's not to say there aren't other types of failures. I suppose it's entirely reasonable for the thing to have developed an internal short.

If you elect to replace it, I don't recommend replacing it with OE. Instead, consider searching the Chinese tractor forums for examples of (many) others who've upgraded their OE alternators in favor of a GM 10si or 12si. From what I've read, the mechanics of it seem quite straightforward. And given the massive number of GM vehicles on the road, price and availability are going to be advantageous as well.

//greg// ....

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auerbach
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2011-06-09          178915

The deck liftmotor on my Grasshopper blows its 30-amp fuse whenever it hits the travel limit. I wish there were a circuit breaker, that is, a protector that when blown, could be reset rather than needing replacement.

That size fuse is not commonly stocked, and they cost a bit. (The factory that makes these fuses sells them to the distributor at two cents a piece.) ....

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richwaugh
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2011-06-10          178930

That deck lift motor should have a limit switch that shits off the motor when it reaches its limit, shouldn't it? You might look into that. If one isn't installed it could be retro-fitted easily enough - a microswitch and a relay would do the trick just fine. You could also retrofit a circuit breaker in place of that fuse for about eight bucks. They make them that plug into the same slots as a regular blade fuse or as stand-alone units you wire inline. Shouldn't take more than thirty minutes to solve the issue. ....

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auerbach
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2011-06-10          178938

"You could also retrofit a circuit breaker in place of that fuse for about eight bucks."

Didn't know, but yup, I got one. Thanks Rich. ....

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greg_g
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2011-06-10          178939

So - just so I understand. How does this Grasshopper discussion help JinmaJeff?

//greg// ....

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auerbach
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2011-06-19          179082

"So - just so I understand. How does this Grasshopper discussion help JinmaJeff?"

When troubleshooting an electric fault you can go through a lot of costly fuses (and 30-amp ones are not always in stock, at least locally). Hence my search for a breaker. Learning that they do exist, I bought a 30-amp that resets itself 15" after blowing, obviating the need to keep buying fuses until the fault is fixed.

....

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greg_g
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2011-06-19          179085

Well, given the disproportionate number of 30a fuses I can buy for the price of one 30a breaker - I guess I'd never given that option much thought.

//greg// ....

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Murf
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2011-06-20          179098

Strictly for the purposes of diagnosis, I prefer an old-style sealed beam headlight bulb.

It will allow some power through, but not enough to melt wires, etc.

Since most folks replace headlights in pairs, it's pretty easy to come by the 'leftover' one that still worked when they were replaced.


Best of luck. ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-06-25          179172

Needed to use the tractor Wed, so thought I might as well disconnect the purple wire from the alternator. The tractor would not key start. Had to jump the solenoid wires, but it ran fine and I had all the gauges operating.
Does this seem in line for an alternator problem or are we back to the "cheesy" key switch? ....

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greg_g
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2011-06-26          179173

Well, I'm still a bit stumped by your description of the wiring. And if the wiring is not factory original, the standard field procedure to test an alternator on the tractor might not work. But on a normal Jinma - with all the wires connected - the battery charge voltage (alternator output) is tested like this:
1. with a volt meter or multi-meter measure DC voltage between + and - posts of the battery. Note reading. On a good battery with a full charge, it should read about 12v (+/- 0.2).
2. With meter leads still on the battery, start engine and increase revs to about 1000. Note reading again. Regardless of the previous reading, you should now see about 14v (+/- 0.5v). As the engine runs, the meter reading should slowly drop to about 12.2v and stay there. At that point, the alternator has fully recharged the battery.

Let us know the results of that test. And I think you should replace the keyswitch just out of principle. That principle being that it's a piece of junk just waiting to break. You can get a usable replacement at most farm stores for under $20. Just make sure you get one that somehow indicates that it's a cold-start switch, because you need that extra post on the back to connect the glow plugs. It's up to you whether you want to replace the switch before or after the alternator check.

//greg// ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-06-27          179185

Thanks again, Greg. I'll try that test and replace the keyswitch as soon as aI can find one. ....

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Nick-Cy
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2011-07-03          179262

Hallo,
I am Nick from Cyprus.
WE have the same problem on Jinnma 554. and the Ammeter fuses is blowing
We took and the Voltmeter and we have measure on the output of the ammeter and on 2000rmp of tractor we have voltage 48Volts DC. That's crazy and also the reason why the 30 Amp is burned.
Also we have measure on the point of the fuse the voltage and we took also from 12Volts and by increase the rpm of tractor we took and 50.5Voltage around 2100Rpm.

Any suggestion pls let us know.

Thanks in advance ....

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greg_g
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2011-07-03          179263

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick-Cy | view 179262
That's crazy and also the reason why the 30 Amp is burned.
Assuming your voltmeter was set to measure DC voltage, that is indeed quite high voltage coming out of the alternator. Is this the original equipment alternator that's giving you this problem? I ask there actually is such a thing as a 48v alternator, and some previous owner could have installed the wrong alternator.

If that voltage is actually getting to the battery as charging voltage, you have a serious problem on your hands. But you cannot automatically assume that's what's blowing the 30A fuse. It's excessive amperage that blows fuses, not excessive voltage.

I recommend you verify the voltmeter is in fact set to measure DC volts, then repeat the measurements you just performed. Then move the leads to the battery posts and check the voltage there. 2000 rpm is not necessary to perform these tests. 900 or so is usually quite sufficient.

//greg// ....

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Nick-Cy
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2011-07-03          179268

Dear Greg thanks for your reply.
Unfortunately my voltmeter was measing DC Voltage.
Yes i am sure that this is the original alternator .
Tractor for 2 years was working perfectly.

When we change the fuse and tractor is starting ok and we measure the voltage is around 12-13V but by increasing the rpm of tractor, fuse is burned for safety i believe, and the voltage is increasing up to 48-50 volt.
We have check all the electrical structure and nothing strange or cable break before the measure.

Tomorrow will check and by removing the leads on the battery.
The only think i believe is that the ammeter is faulty.


Thanks for your reply.

....

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jinmajeff
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2011-10-18          180932

Hello again! I took greg_g's advice and bought a ford diesel keyswitch. The connections are not a direct match and I'm hoping someone with more experiance than me can save me tracing all the wires down to know what's what.

My 284 keyswitch has 4 connections:
Purple/green wires combine to one connection
Red wire
Green wire
Pink wire

The new key switch has 5 blade connections, 2 of them are double bladed connections. Someone was kind enough to label them:
Run 2
Hot wire
Start
Run 1
Heat

Can anyone help me determine what colored wires go to what connection?
Thanks! ....

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greg_g
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2011-10-19          180945

On yours, the red one is battery power, the green one is glow plugs. One of the other two connects to the fuse panel, the other to the clutch interlock switch under the left floorboard - on the way to the starter solenoid. But you'll have to trace those out to see which is which.

Assuming there are no errors in the way your replacement switch is marked, your red one goes to Hot Wire, which should be one of the double blades. The other double blade is for separately fused accessories, so you may not need to use it. Your green one goes to Glow. After you figure out what your other two tractor wires are for, where they go on the new switch should be fairly evident.

//greg// ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-10-20          180962

Thanks! Hope to get this done my next day off. ....

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jinmajeff
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2011-10-23          180988

Greetings! While tracing down the clutch wire yesterday to put in the new key switch I found that the wire had been mashed between the clutch pedal and a bolt. It was in two pieces. Aha, thought I. This must be the elusive short. But after repairing the wire the same fuse blowing persisted. The wire probably broke since the short started and went unnoticed since I was jumping the connections at the starter to fire up the engine.
I hoked up the new starter switch and the dash worked, but the starter would not turn. Got out the multimeter and the only hot wire was the purple/green so I put that on Hot, the red on Run 1, the green on Heat and the pink on start. It got dark about this time, but when I left it the tractor started repeatedly without blowing any fuses. I think greg_g was right all along about the cheesy key switch. Thanks Greg!
Another question: Since last June when I tore into this there has been a light gauge red wire hanging loose. The connection at the end of the wire and its location make it look like it might go to the key switch. Everything seems to be working fine without it for now so I have it taped off to prevent shorts. I could proably provide more info on it whn I get a chance to look at it again. Any idea what it may be? Is there a sixth wire to the key switch? Thanks again! ....

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greg_g
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2011-10-23          180989

Not to the keyswitch. Mine had two wires hanging; a green one which turned out to belong to the horn switch, and a red one that was intended for dash light illumination. I connected the horn wire, but - like you - taped off the red one.

//greg// ....

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aussiejinma
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2011-12-12          181615


I have a new jinma 28 hp, done 3 hrs idle running, ammeter 30 amp fuse just blown.. (actually melted part of the fuse box too). Hopefully you have saved me a lot of work by replacing the key switch. Thanks for the thread! ....

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greg_g
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2011-12-12          181616

I don't know how the Oz-bound Jinmas are wired. Here in America they were originally configured with one 30A system fuse that also acted as a glow plug fuse. But that soon proved problematic - a bad glow plug circuit would blow the system fuse, taking out the entire electrical system. Later models put the glow plug circuit on a separate 30A fuse.

So the question becomes; are you blowing the 30A system fuse? or the 30A glow plug fuse?

//greg// ....

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aussiejinma
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2011-12-13          181619

it is the ammeter fuse. I havent looked over it properly yet but...

the older model Jinma tractors use to have a fault if you turned the ignition key off while the engine was still running it disconnected the 12 volts to field of alternator which caused it to put out hundreds of volts if spinning quickly - blowing fuses or dash instrunments.
They have tried to fix it with new models (maybe the extra wiring that was talked about in the thread)?? but mine is a 2011 model and may still have same fault as I am in the habbit of turning key off and using keys to open gates then back into tractor - enging running the entire time.
I brought mine off the gentleman who started jinma international - a texan now living in OZ who exported them from china to USA and OZ - so i assume they are the same, he gave me the info about the problem if you turn key off with engine running.

I will replace mine tomorrow and see if it lasts.. ....

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greg_g
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2011-12-13          181626

Assuming then that the pre-heat circuit is separately fused, your diagnosis of the keyswitch circuit is quite likely accurate. Keep in mind though, that there is more to that circuit than the keyswitch alone.

What specific position on the keyswitch causes the 30A system fuse to blow?

//greg// ....

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aussiejinma
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2011-12-14          181636

I haven't tested specific key switch position - I was told it happened when turned "off" position and that is what I did when it blew, I have replaced it now and it is starting everytime no problems, Im not able to test if i can blow it again by the same method to confirm this soloution is the sole and accurate soloution. So unless it goes again with a different cause, fingers crossed it is fixed. im using the tractor a lot over the next two days so will soon know. Thanks ....

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Circlegtractors
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2011-12-22          181723

You may want to check the arch at the box make sure the contact ends are making a good contact with the fuse.

Phillip
Circle G Tractor Sales, Inc.
www.circlegtractorparts.com ....

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