Go BottomAgracat 2920 Tractor will not start
 | mscpilot
Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 30 Florida 
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2005-10-25 118432
Argacat 2920 tractor. Normally starts first time, but now nothing. I turn the key and nothing happens. When I turn the key I do notice that the volt meter reads neg30 or all the way to the left. The rpm gauge jumos a little but then drops off. There is no noise. I tried to jump start the tractor thinking the battery was bad but that didn't help. I tried putting the hot jumper right on the starter but nothing. When I put a screw driver across the positve lead and the negative lead on the starter I got an arc but nothing. So My thinking is the starter might be going bad. Is there a way to check this or any other Ideas out there that might help.
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 | Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4297 Southwest MiddleTennessee 
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2005-10-25 118434
Sounds like the starter solenoid is not making any contact. Sometimes a firm (but not excessive) tap may make the solenoid make a connection but is a long shot. I take it that you are not even getting a click or anything to indicate the starter is trying to work? ....
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| mscpilot
Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 30 Florida
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2005-10-25 118439
NO, no click, all I see is the gauges move and thats it. Do I tap the end or on the side?
....
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| Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4297 Southwest MiddleTennessee
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2005-10-25 118458
I would say it is time to pull the starter and bench test it for function. If it appears to work properly on the bench, I would check to ensure the engine will turn over by hand by either attempting to turn it over via gently prying the flywheel or other means. Could be that something got wedged in between the starter and/or flywheel ring gear. If the engine does not turn over you have bigger problems but first lets concentrate on eliminating the starter which sounds like a very likely culprit. ....
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 | greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky 
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2005-10-26 118467
The wafer switches Jinma used during AgraCat's brief lifetime (maybe still now, I don't know) were of dubious quality. I'd start there. Try to start the tractor IN NEUTRAL by shorting the solenoid wire against the starter cable. If that starts the tractor without the radical ammeter deflection, you can download my instructions for a "Switch Mod" at http://www.johnstractor.homestead.com/JinmaInfo2.html
//greg// ....
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 | affordable
Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 93 Bellville,Texas
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2005-10-26 118490
If you end up needing a starter, solenoid look us up.We have them in stock.Jump the starter with a screwdriver from the hot post to the solenoid and see if it spins over, if not you have a starter problem, that by pass's the switch, clutch interlock ,ect. make sure the tractor is in neutral first.
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales ....
Link: webpage
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| mscpilot
Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 30 Florida
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2005-10-27 118506
I pulled the starter and battery, both checked out fine so back to the drawing board. I did try to short the starter but nothing happened when I did this, I will try different settings on the key switch today. I'll let you know what happen later. Thanks ....
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| Chief
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 4297 Southwest MiddleTennessee
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2005-10-27 118508
When you say the starter and battery checked out fine......do you mean the starter bench tested properly and functioned? Not sure what you mean when you say you shorted the starter. Did you short the solenoid terminal to the starter post? Just want to be sure the starter and solenoid checked out. If this all functioned properly; sounds like you are on the right track with the start switch. Good luck. ....
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| mscpilot
Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 30 Florida
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2005-10-28 118550
OK, first off yes to your questions, and second, after reading the posts here I first tried to wiggle the wires below the switch. Wow, engine started fine, so I will be looking at the switch and wiring a little closer. Thanks
for the help, I'm just glad this one was an easy one. ....
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| switchman
Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 4 Yelm washintgon
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2006-09-06 134027
Hi
I also am having the same trouble with my JINMA 284
I turn the key and nothing happens, but I can jump start it when I go across the starter lugs. ....
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 | SG8NUC
Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 579 g 
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2006-09-06 134028
Did you buy a new battery when you got the tractor. ....
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| affordable
Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 93 Bellville,Texas
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2006-09-06 134029
Sounds like you have a bad key switch,if you need one please give us a call
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
979-865-4002 ....
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| greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2006-09-06 134030
Same advice applies as given above, consider my "Switch Mod" at http://www.johnstractor.homestead.com/JinmaInfo2.html. Also, some of the 200 series came with a 10A fuse in the 30A system fuse slot. Check that too.
//greg// ....
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| RanchHand
Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 37 Virginia / North Carolina Line
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2006-09-07 134047
Also, Make sure you don't have a problem with your clutch safety switch.
Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply ....
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| yofrient
Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 19 AR US
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2007-04-22 141413
I apologize for revisiting this old discussion but it is now relavant for me. I've had no problems starting my Agcat 254 (750hrs) since I bought it 3 weeks ago. Yesterday, I turned it off (pulled key out) for a break and when I went to start it back up an hour later, nothing. Turn the key on, and guages move to the correct position, turn the key to the H or Start position, they all drop but no starter activity. I tried laying a screwdriver across both posts of the starter but no sparks or starter movement. When I lay the screwdriver across the posts, the guages drop like before. The clutch switch has been bypassed for now so I know it's not a bad safety switch. Battery is brand new Interstate 75. I've tried rocking tractor, tapping starter solenoid and everything suggested in this post except pulling starter and bench testing. Is there anything else that might be tried to get it started. My skills are limited and I have a guy locally that may be able to help but I wanted to try to do something myself first. ....
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| greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2007-04-22 141414
Maybe I'm not reading you correctly, but it sounds funny that the gauges would deflect when you simply short the starter posts. On the surface, that sounds a bit like a short somewhere. Disconnect the switch wire from the solenoid, and try your screwdriver again.
//greg// ....
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| mscpilot
Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 30 Florida
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2007-04-22 141415
OK, I have been working this one for a long time and beleave it or not I am still running into trouble. I have to start my tractor with jumper cables everytime. Battery checks out ok. I just know there is a ground somewhere but I just can't find it. I will be out today working on the tractor so if I have any luck I will e-mail ya. Good luck let me know what you find. ....
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| greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2007-04-22 141416
Wow, year and a half and you're still jumping it? I use mine almost every day - I couldn't live with a situation like that. Follow the negative battery cable to where it's bolted to the frame. Remove it. Grind the paint down to bare metal. Smear on some dielectric grease. Remove any corrosion on the cable lug, reinstall. Cover up your work with bearing grease.
Disconnect cables at the battery and clean both lugs and posts. Disconnect battery cable at the starter, clean and replace.
Then get rid of that Jinma key switch, it's junk. Get a Ford cold-start type switch and some 10ga wire. Replace the OE glow plug wire and the solenoid wire with 10ga. Wire in the new switch.
Reconnect your cables to the battery posts, cover them with grease as well. Charge battery. Start tractor.
//greg// ....
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| yofrient
Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 19 AR US
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2007-04-22 141417
Maybe I didnt turn it off and ran the battery down. I tried a jump from the truck and it at least tried turning over. ROOKIE Mistake. I've got the battery on a charger and will see if I can get something later. I'm so sorry to waste your time. I've read your other posts and you seem to be the go to guy. I'll let you know later and thanks for the quick response. Jumping should have been the first ry and I made too many assumptions. ....
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| mscpilot
Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 30 Florida
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2007-04-22 141419
Greg
Thanks I am doing that as we speak. I have tried just about everything else. wierd thing about that battery but you ideas sound great so off I go. ....
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| yofrient
Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 19 AR US
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2007-04-22 141420
Embarrased again: the Battery was DEAD. This may be for another post, but what in the world on a tractor causes a battery to run down in just under an hour. I know the guages turn on and the hour timer runs but that's it. My neighbor said the same thing happens with his his MF. 30 minutes with the key on and the battery is drained enough that it wont start the machine. This is puzzling and I know theres a common sense answer. Once again, thanks for the input on a seemingly senseless problem. I enjoy all the posts and the answers. ....
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 | kwschumm
Join Date: Feb 2003 Posts: 5764 NW Oregon
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2007-04-22 141421
Obviously that's not normal. Use a meter to measure current draw with the tractor off, then pull fuses one at a time until current draw drops and that will identify the troublesome circuit and point you in the right direction. ....
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| greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2007-04-22 141422
Well Yof, top up the battery with distilled water - then put the charger on it. Hopefully your charger will tell you whether the battery is accepting a charge. Three out of the four Chinese tractors I've owned had the OE battery go bad within the first year, one within the first month.
If your tractor is wired like mine, the danged brake lights come on when the parking brake is set (with key in the ON or RUN position). I always park with the brakes set, but occasionally neglect to turn off the key switch. Brake lights obviously take more juice that I figger'd, cuz I'm embarrassed to say each time I did that - I had to jumpstart the bugger.
//greg// ....
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| yofrient
Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 19 AR US
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2007-04-23 141437
I might admit that the key was left in the on position for about 45 minutes. But, when the key is left on, what components other than the guages is running to discharge a battery in a tractor? In this case, there were no lights or parking break lights left on, only the guages (as far as I know). In comparasion, I've sat in a car for hours with lights on and radio blaring and never run a car battery down. My tractor has a brand new Interstate battery and my neighbor said he has run his battery down on his Massey Ferguson after leaving the key on for 30 minutes. I took the battery out of my 71 Bronco and started the tractor with it, I took the tractor battery off the charger (which showed a full charge even when I initially hooked it up) put it in the Bronco and the Truck started fine. Maybe I need a blaring radio on my tractor? ....
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| greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2007-04-23 141443
I think you need to double check that the brake lights come on when you set the parking brake. Or don't you set the brake when you get off the tractor? Also - there could be a short in the glow plug circuit. With the key in the ON position - but the tractor not started - how many amps are indicated on the ammeter?
Like I said, the Jinma keyswitch is crap. The wafers disintegrate internally, so - when they start to go - you're never quite sure what gets connected to what
//greg// ....
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| yofrient
Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 19 AR US
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2007-07-17 143791
Just to liven up this sleeping post. I ended up re-doing the ends on my (+) battery cable and I eliminated my problem until yesterday. I recently broke the bolt that attaches the alternator to the engine block. When I put everything back together, the belt has a little play (about a 1/2 inch) but everything turns (no slippage). Is it possible that the alternator isn't recharging the battery because of a loose fan belt and should there be any play at all in the belt. I made sure I marked which cable connects to what on the alternator so, I'm pretty sure I hooked it back up correctly. ....
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 | earthwrks
Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 3853 Home Office in Flat Rock, Michigan
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2007-07-17 143800
Sure, the loose fan belt will cause the alternator to not charge. And if I read it right, the alt is not properly attached which will cause a vibration and cause further looseness. Rapid wear to the belt will also occur. Also if that belt runs any other accessories like a fan, it too will lose effectiveness. And in the case of a fan, cause overheating, a blown head gasket and/or warped head or cracked block. ....
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 | candoarms
Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 1932 North Dakota
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2007-07-17 143804
Yofrient,
If your alternator was working properly before you disconnected it, I'd go back and recheck the wiring. I know it sounds simple, but in most cases it is.
As for the belt tension......you don't want to stretch it too tight, as this will be hard on the belt and the bearings. However, a 1/2 inch of play sounds a bit too loose to me. With that much play in it, I'd be surprised if your belt didn't squeal a bit as it slips on the pulleys.
If you've replaced the broken bolt that held your alternator in place, then you should be able to properly adjust the belt tension. It should be stretched fairly tight.
Now.....is it possible that you got some water on or in the electrical system when you washed out your radiator? If so, it might be best to let the thing dry out for a couple of days before attempting to run it again. Using water to flush out the radiator is generally frowned upon, due to the fact that it can cause electrical problems. Using compressed air for cleaning the radiator is the preferred method.
Let us know what you find, will you?
Joel ....
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| greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 1816 Western Kentucky
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2007-07-17 143805
The alternator is only 15 amps in the first place. And the three wire design doesn't excite at low RPMs anyway. You almost need to be at working RPMs before viable charging voltage is produced. Factor in the loose belt, and you've explained away a good portion of the problem.
The Chinese wiring scheme doesn't help either. As delivered, charging voltage is bottlenecked via small gauge wire through the ignition switch, the ammeter, and the fuse box before eventually arriving at the battery. You won't top up a 12v battery very fast if only 11 volts are actually getting there. To more competently deliver charging voltage to the battery, I recommend a (minimum) 10ga connection between the output of the alternator and the battery cable post on the starter motor. From there it's routed directly to battery via the positive battery cable.
//greg// ....
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