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Grades of Diesel engine oil

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kthompson
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5275 South Carolina
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2007-01-31          139406

When your tractor calls for say CD grade oil (diesel) are you safe to use what appears to be a newer grade of oil? By newer the letters are higher up the alphabet. Not sure if that means a better grade or what.

I happened to read the manual rather than just want into where I have been buying Rotella and it calls for CD and I don't find CD, find CG or some other letters past CD. Tractor Supply nor my non Kubota dealer sells the CD or at least has it on shelf.


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Murf
Join Date: Dec 1999
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2007-01-31          139410

Search through the archives there was a thread on it a while back.

I believe it was Peters who posted a link to a very good site that explained it all. DRankin & Chief also mentioned, I believe it was the Chevron site, showed lots of good info. too.

I'll look it up for you tomnorrow if nobody posts it before then.

I gotta run and start supper right now, all this talk of food on the other thread has me hungry!!

Tonight is Texican Chilli night..... mmmmmmm!! :)

(Chilli made with hunks of steak instead of ground chuck!!)

Best of luck.

....

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kthompson
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2007-01-31          139414

Murf, found this at Chevron site. Thanks for the help. It seems my thoughts were right. kt

Choosing the Right Motor Oil

What to Look for on a Motor Oil Label
The symbol at left is referred to as the "API donut." It gives you three pieces of information. API (American Petroleum Institute) Service Rating: This two-letter classification identifies the vehicle fuel type and quality level of the motor oil. The first letter indicates the vehicle fuel type that the oil is designed for. Ratings that begin with an "S" are intended for gasoline engines. Ratings that begin with a "C" are for diesel engine. The second letter designates the quality level of the motor oil. The higher the letter, the more advanced the oil and the more protection it offers your engine. An SJ oil can be used in any engine requiring an SB, SG, SH, etc. oil.
....

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Art White
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2007-01-31          139422

The ratings help but a higher TBN like 11 plus is a good thing to consider as well as a Sulfated ash count over 1. I like about 12 tops on a TBN for farm diesels and about a 1.2 at least on sulfated ash. I know that by buying a oil with numbers in this range might cost more then the lower grades the oil's work better longer. ....

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greg_g
Join Date: Jan 2004
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2007-01-31          139427

The API ratings are forward compatible only. That is, if your diesel owner's manual specifies CD (like my '85 Mercedes turbo diesel), that means I can use CD-/CE-/CF-/CG-/CG-/CH- and any that follow in the alphabet. Don't go the other direction though, I leave any old stock of CA-/CB-/CC- on the store shelf.

Except for folks that use Castrol that is. They assign dual designators (like SH/CD), claiming that it performs equally well in gasoline or diesel engines .

//greg// ....


Link:   Castrol explanation

 
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Art White
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2007-02-01          139455

Not to find fault with what you've said Greg, but, SH is a gas engine oil cand the CD is a diesel oil. What might be the difference? Gas engines can't have ash as it builds up on the valves and causes them to burn, Diesels need ash to absorb the impurities of partial burnt fuel from cold engines. Not for nothing to save a bit on the price of a quart of oil is the difference of a 3500 hour engine life to 7000 hour engine life or more.. Will it make a difference to you? Probably not but it would to a high hour user and anyone in the industry can tell you there are differences, depends on who they are looking out for the most them or you. If you were looking for a tractor with long life and a good return on your investment then spend the money on the oil, otherwise just trade more often. ....

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greg_g
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2007-02-01          139460

If you followed the web link I provided Art, you'd have seen it ain't me saying it - it's Castrol. I never use the stuff myself, just thought I'd post it before some one who actually uses Castrol started crying foul.

//greg// ....

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kthompson
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2007-02-02          139489

I know Castrol did rate their synthetic for both gas and diesel. I lost faith in Castrol when they changed their synthetic to the current without changing the label. "IF" memory is correct their synthetic is not what the other guys believe should be allowed to be labelled as synthetic.

Do believe TP is where I first picked up on that. Did read much more on the lawsuits and such over the word synthetic as to motor oil. ....

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Murf
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2007-02-02          139491

The problem is in pure semantics.

According to Wikipedia, "Chemical synthesis is purposeful execution of chemical reactions in order to get a product, or several products. This happens by physical and chemical manipulations usually involving one or more reactions."

So, if you take crude oil out of the ground and "execute" several "chemical reactions" such as in the distillation and refining process, you in defintion, have "synthetic" oil, it's been altered from what you originally found.

Best of luck. ....

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Art White
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2007-02-02          139496

That also applies to "All Natural" and many other things in our lives. Such a shame, I remember a company stated that they had a shuttle shift, after a bit of talk they felt that to have a forward gear in line with a reverse gear would qualify as a shuttle! ....

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kthompson
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2007-02-08          139646

Art, where do you find the "The ratings help but a higher TBN like 11 plus is a good thing to consider as well as a Sulfated ash count over 1."

I have looked at some of the brands here and don't see it on their label. Is that what Rotella means by "soot control"?

Thanks, kt ....

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Art White
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2007-02-10          139692

Ken, just got back town from the North American CASE-IH dealer meeting in Orlando, I've probably got many of the spec's on my desk at the office. Give me some time and I'll have them for you. ....

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Art White
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2007-02-12          139707

The last test that I have Ken put's Shell Rotella 1 at 7.5 for a total base number and a 1 on sulfated ash. They also have Rimula which uses a 1.65 sulfated ash and 12 for a base number which still doesn't exceed the Detroit spec's 7SE270 it did well on the tests. ....

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cowpie1
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2007-05-21          142278

It is true that multiple refining processes (hydrocracking) move mineral oils into the "synthetic" category. There are differences in synthetics though.

Advanced hydrocracking of mineral oils yields a Class 3 oil. Typical Off the shelf oils are a class 2. Others, such as Amsoil, are a class 4 oil. The base oil is developed from the ground up. There are also class 5 oils as well, but usually are a specific application oil used for only one purpose.

The quality of the oil (ie. shear resistance, thermal breakdown, etc) goes up with each class. Class 4 has properties that are better than 3.

Class 3 synthetics are good oils. Class 4 synthetics are better. It all depends on what you are wanting. Class 4 oils will perform over a broader range better than 3 and protect better. Engines, transmissions, hydraulics, and gears will run a little cooler and exhibit less wear with a class 4 over a 3 just as the same will occur with a class 3 over a class 2. Of course, the cost goes up with each class.

Each has his own idea of what they want to use. Whatever fits in your comfort level and what you want to spend. I prefer Amsoil in everything I use, but I won't criticize anyone for using another.

Most of the Amsoil diesel oils have a TBN of 12+. The specs are listed for each oil on their site. ....

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