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 | Paladin
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 81 Eastern Pennsylvania 
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2002-07-22 40587
Have been following all the boards to learn what I can prior to purchase of a 22-25 PTO HP compact. I'm semi-retired and have a 14 ac spread in SE PA - some lawn, some woodlot, some tilled fields.
I just missed a used NH Boomer 29 today (it was sold) but the dealer in Linglestown, PA offered a consolation prize. Cub Cadet 7275, 400 Hr, ag tires, Cub Cadet Loader, power steering, hydrostat tranny. Price $12,500 He said it was badly sun faded from outdoor storage, but ran fine. He has the 60 in mid mount mower from another 7275 and would throw that in for very little extra $$.
My local dealer should be Erb & Henry in Boyertown but they dropped the compact Cadets when they got a Kubota franchise. I checked with them and they are still a dealer for the smaller Cadets and can get parts for me or service the tractor no problem.
Good deal or not - what do you guys think? Also, how much of a pain is the mid mount to get on and off? Should I forget it and go with a 3 point Woods or Landpride or Bushog?
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| DaveM
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 67 Southern Maine
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2002-07-23 40609
Paladin, I own a 7234 Cub w/Bush Hog loader and it is an excellent machine. If I were to do it over again and had the $$ I would buy the HST model and probably the 27 HP. The price seems a little high. I've enclosed a web link someone gave a while back that will give you an idea of prices on used equipment on some models. I don't have a real feel for the MMM. If I had one I would probably use it but I would go for a rotary cutter/bush hog to cut down the overgrowth I have, brush etc that I think the RC would have a lot more effect on.
Happy Hunting!
http://www.machinerylink.com/resources/uevg/sbm/default.asp ....
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| Ted@Abbeywoods, LLC
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2002-07-23 40612
I first read your post while at work, and not being able to reply from there because of their rules I had to wait until I got home. I really hope that you take this the right way, I'm not trying to rain on your parade and everything I tell you is true.
My experience with Cub Cadets goes way back to 1963 when the big IH Cubs and little garden tractors were made in the USA. I've used, professionally, two CC 7000's in the family landscaping business, both machines were mine, not leased. Both had meticulous care and were NEVER abused, here is the sum of my experience:
The 7234, mechanical transmission machine (now sold as the 726X) held up to about 1600 hrs and then started to cost too much: clutch, seals, 417 loader SCV and bucket cylinders, battery, some wiring, 417 loader pins, 407 backhoe pins, starter, one headlight bulb, 407 backhoe top link (twice) all had to be replaced or repaired. The clincher came when it started to leak from the transmission seals, a very big bill, and my wife and I traded it for a new Kubota L35 TLB.
The 7275 (now sold as the 730X and is really an improvement over the 1995 design) had similar problems with the loader, also a 417, as well as the 407 backhoe. However, the big problem with the 7275's are the hydro transmission seals nasty habit of leaking. This is a big bite cash wise to repair, so check under the machine you are looking at very carefully! Look for any signs that it has been wiped clean, and if the rest looks dirty, well, you get my drift. Mitsubishi notified MTD CC about the problem, mostly caused if the machine sits for any long time and is not run, so your dealer should know about this weakness. Ours usually sits out the winter months, which explains why a get an occasional drip. Despite these problems I have no plans on selling or trading the 7275, it has a wonderful hydro that I use exclusively for loader work - especially putting down decorative mulch and gravels.
As for the paint on your potential purchase, it will come back with a little soft cleaner paste wax and some patience. That isn't a big issue in my opinion. When they run, the hydros are wonderful, a joy to operate, and I really wish the L35 was a hydro, it would make it perfect. If you go with the 7275, insist on a warranty, any machine that has baked outside as long as this one may have is going to have other problems you won't spot right away. Yes, the center or belly mount mowers are horrible to hook up and also require an optional valve kit to raise and lower them. It isn't worth it for any landscaper, or anyone who changes implements frequently, to have to deal with that huge hunk of metal underneath. Everyone I know uses the Woods 3 pt finish mower, you can even back one up to a building or wall and make a respectable cut.
I wish you best of luck, and I'll respond if you have more questions about the Cubs. ....
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| Paladin
Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 81 Eastern Pennsylvania
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2002-07-23 40616
Thanks to both of you gentlemen. I appreciate the candid comments.
I stopped today at Erb & Henry (former CC dealer - now Kubota). The saleswoman, after trying mightily to get me interested in a new Bota (nothing used in stock - there never is, it seems!), admitted that they had no really major mechanical problems with the CC 7000 series tractors they sold. Her complaints were: 1. Limited selection from CC - only 3 models in the line when the 7275 was new, 2. Difficult and screwed up ordering process - lots of paperwork, sometimes tractors were plentiful but loaders on long backorder, sometimes lots of backhoes and loaders but no tractors in the US, and so on. Tractors would show up w/ turf tires when the customer wanted Ag, etc., 3. Overpriced w/ no incentives programs, and 4. (She hinted - did not exactly say) lousy dealer incentive programs.
She did make one statement that made me pause. She faulted the CC for having a really high center of gravity and a tendance to roll over. She claimed that one customer with hilly terrain had a couple of near misses with the CC and traded it at 137 hours on a Bota.
Once he traded it it took them two years to sell the CC.
I'm going to head out and look at the CC in Linglestown but I think I am going to be kind of hard headed on price. I think I will try to get at least a thou knocked off before I even get serious. And you guys are right - why screw around with a mid mount mower. ....
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| Ted@Abbeywoods,LLC
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2002-07-24 40628
I am very close friends with my local CC dealer and the reason most dealers abandon CC for Kubota comes down to something very simple: money. There is a very narrow profit margin on the CC, a bit wider on the Kubota line. But perhaps more important, even with the new computerized parts ordering system, CC still does not support its line like most of the big manufacturers. CC often sends the dealer the wrong part, has no part number for some parts and forces the dealer to play mix and match, and if the dealer has a complicated technical question, well forget about a speedy answer. Often as not, the dealer who is really the hero, comes off looking like an idiot and the customer goes away mad. MTD / CC just doesn't seem to care to listen to its customers about what they want, and don't seem that much interested about after sale support, in comparison to Kubota. MTD also seems to think they know how to design a tractor, better than Mitsubishi. Just look at the new 7000 series (BX size) gasoline engined tractors and you'll know what I mean. Good grief, what were they thinking?
As far as a high cg, I think that is just so much baloney. I've had my machines on slopes that would make you turn green and as long as you respect gravity you'll have no problem. You always have to think safety!
In closing, my CC dealer friends always lament about the local Kubota dealers having won an all expenses paid trip for themselves and family for good sales. The local Kubota dealer and family have enjoyed Hawaii, Las Vegas, and Bermuda (not in the same year) for excellence in sales, the CC dealer got a wall plaque. Knowing all of this to be true, why would anyone bother with MTD? ....
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| DaveM
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 67 Southern Maine
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2002-07-29 40804
Ted@Abbeywoods
Hello Ted. It sounds like you know a lot about the Cub line. I got one because the Dealer priced it right and the tractor seemed to out spec a similar JD, 770, and Kubota, etc. One thing odd I have found with my 7234 is the adjustment of the clutch. I have adjusted it the way the manual says but the adj. on the rods going to the clutch is just about used up. The tractor was new when I bought it, with just a few hours on it. It now only has 125 or so. Just before the two year warranty ran out I trucked it to the dealer and even though the adjustment was out of spec, the clutch wasn't slipping and seemed to be working fine. I called the factory and they couldn't tell me much more than the dealer. What is your experience with the clutch on this? How many hours should I get out of it under normal wear? I use the tractor for plowing in the winter and other normal type work around my place here in So. Maine.
Thanks for your wisdom with the CC. I have wanted to find someone who had used them commercially to see how they stood up. Sorry the HST model got to be a maintenance problem. ....
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| larry
Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 0 St.Davids
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2002-07-30 40819
I have a 7274 Cub bought in 96 & have never had to adjust the clutch pedal
It has 400 hrs on it & as yourself I use it for "chores" not
commercially.
I use the clutch lock when it is going to sit for a while that way the clutch is disengaged reducing the chance of it seizing up. ....
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| Ted@ABBEYWOODS. LLC
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2002-07-30 40834
Dear Dave,
There are many variables that can cause premature clutch wear; improper operation (riding the clutch being the most common), defective parts (not likely knowing Mitsubishi’s quality), improper maintenance, and type of hard service (severe).
I know of one 7264 (the replacement model for the 7234), looks like a wreck, but has over 1300 hours and the clutch is strong. Another 7264 that looks showroom new, also used commercially, has gone through three clutches with only about 500 hours on the clock. The dogeared Cub is used mostly for mowing very large acreages, while the nice looking one is used in landscaping: loader work, backhoe work, moving heavy rocks and balled trees into position, etc.
Regardless of the way they look it is the severity of use that sets them apart. So if your machine isn’t in severe duty, then I’d look to the other possibilities that I mentioned. Not knowing all of the details of your operation I can only guess, and my guess is you have either a case of improper maintenance or faulty parts.
I hope that you took the time to completely read and fully understand the excellent owner's manual that came with your tractor. Pages 120 and 121 describe the TWO adjustments to the dual clutch found on the synchro transmission units that must be made every 200 hours of operation.
Is it possible that you missed one of the two adjustments? Step one is to adjust the Free Pedal Movement to within 0.8 to 1.2 inches. This will ensure that you do not wear out the disc (friction plate) early, or cause hard shifting. Follow the instructions to the letter, don't forget to torque the rod nuts to between 32 and 40 lbs ft.
With that done, you must go to Step two and adjust the Maximum Pedal Movement to between 4.9 and 5.1 inches. Follow the illustrations paying careful attention to the placement of your ruler, improper measurement is the number one cause of poor performance. Could you have measured wrong? Have a helper push down on the pedal while you measure - measure twice.
You shouldn't need to replace the clutch for at least 1500 to 2000 hours in light duty use.
A final note of caution, please don't attempt to replace the clutch on your own. This repair requires two factory tools: CAS 2169 for alignment and CAS 2170 for total height setting. You must split the tractor, support it fully, during the repair, and you really should have an experienced Mitsubishi / CC mechanic examine the parts. You may find that you have excessive run-out of the flywheel, the clutch cover assembly bolts may be loose, and that the disc is not mating properly, check to ensure that the clutch arm is not rotating on its shaft. The arm must rotate the shaft, not spin on it. Any of these could also cause or contribute to your problem.
I can't think of anything else so I wish you well. I often read the posts here and I'll try to respond should you need more help. Best of luck! ....
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| Ted@ABBEYWOODS, LLC
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2002-07-30 40839
Hey Dave, I was so busy I forgot to tell you why my clutch failed early! All of the bolts holding the clutch cover came loose, twice. The first time the dealer said it was because it got past the QA guys and weren't torqued at the factory. The second time I had them change the bolts to American made grade 5. That held it off for about another 200 hours or so until I killed it again through heavy use: carrying rocks for a large job. These things have a mind of their own, I guess. ....
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| DaveM
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 67 Southern Maine
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2002-08-02 40928
Ted I plan on looking at the clutch adjustment this weekend. I got the book out and as I remember it I did the adjustment just as spelled out and the way you described it. If the 10K race I'm running in doesn't do me in tomorrow AM I'll look at in the afternoon. ....
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| DaveM
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 67 Southern Maine
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2002-09-02 41916
Ted,
I finally got around to getting back on the tractor and checking the measurement of my clutch adjustment. I've checked and double checked the measurement on the adjustment. The overall 4.9 - 5.1 inch is very close, about 5". It it the free play adj. that is still off. The free play is right at 2", about twice what the book calls for. I checked it first before trying any adj. and found it to be real close to 2". The adj. nut was right at the end of the adj. rod. I wanted to make sure it was adj. in the right spot so I loosened the nut(s) and moved them up about an inch or so. The adj. went way off so I know it was 'about' in the right spot to start with. Now this was a new tractor when I bought it and I don't think I have abused the tractor, i.e. ridden the clutch etc. Like I said the adj. is all the way out and won't adj. any further. The clutch doesn't appear to slip and I have no trouble shifting. One item that might affect it is the adjustable bracket mounted on the back side of the firewall/engine area. This is the bracket that you stick your ruler on. Could I have the wrong one on the tractor? It looks about right but I notice I really have to push the clutch in hard in order to put the locking clip on the clutch. If that were a longer bracket the measurements would be much closer. It also almost feels like when I push the clutch in I can shift ok but I can continue to push even further, to the point where the little clip would go over the clutch and hold it down. Well when I push it that extra inch or so to put the clip on it feels like I am forcing something, maybe even bending/distorting that clutch adjusting rod. Any way Ted that is what my clutch adjustment looks like. Any more ideas? ....
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